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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/18/2020 in all areas

  1. Forgot to mention that these website figures are accurate figures calculated from mileage and actual fuel put in the tank. However, the figures shown on the dashboard display are optimistic by 3-4 mpg. So if the dashboard says 50 mpg, that equates to a real figure of around 46 mpg - or at least, it does on my car.
    4 points
  2. The RC-F sounds awesome. Take one for a test drive; stick it in Sport or Sport + rev it past 3000rpm and see for yourself. There are some on the F forum who insist that an aftermarket exhaust is needed, but I think they are slightly deranged (though deranged isn't all bad, their videos do sound epic)
    3 points
  3. Thank you all for taking the time. Mark, although mine is a facelift it still has 17" wheels being a Celsior. I think I'm going to get it on a ramp, have a really thorough check of the bearings and other joints, maybe it's been too rushed by those who have checked it.
    2 points
  4. Excuse me if someones already said this but I've looked at this without the benefit of my glasses. I understand that overtightening the wheel nuts can distort the discs....that's it, that's my penarth...good luck. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    2 points
  5. When I had the 400s - the steering on them was very smooth and lighter than the 430 - part of the reason is probably the narrower tyres Since having the 430 I have never got the steering perfect: It is slightly heavier to turn than the 400s here is more road feel especially uneven surfaces It has a tendency to jerk a little when going over bumps and uneven surfaces I tend to feel a slight wobble when going over uneven surfaces I have so far replaced, tie rods, ball joints, steering rack bushes and gone through different brand of tyres - but never go it 100% I think part of the reason is the profile of the tyres The pre-facelift ones are smoother with 17 inch tyres
    2 points
  6. Just had a look at the difference between the LS400 and the LS430 tie rods. The LS400 tie rods connect to the hub from the bottom with the ball joint underneath and the nut on the top. The LS430 is the opposite, the tie rods connect from the top with the ball joint at the top and the nut underneath. Maybe that would result in different symptoms if they are worn and could cause a wobble on an LS430 but not on an LS400. .
    2 points
  7. I would hazard a guess that the tie rod ends are not in the best of shape then, judging by my experience and maybe the cause of your issue. I doubt it but you never know......... Lower/upper ball joints have the weight of the car on them and normally show symptoms when you go over a pothole or speed bump or something similar and the weight of the car comes off then back on again, if there is play then you feel/hear a clunk. Tie rod/track rod ends don't have the cars weight on them so they are free to move and 'rattle' if worn, that's my thinking anyway and there is probably a proper 'technical' explanation/description somewhere. If you think they are worn/knackered then they probably need to be replaced anyway, it's a good place to start and see if it has any effect on your wobble problem. I did a post about replacing them (see below), I can/have done most things on my car but Lexus replaced mine a few weeks ago.
    2 points
  8. Phil The problem does sound exactly the same as I had with my present LS430 which I bought in early 2019. It only had 95k on the clock but it had been off the road for 5 years and one of the issues it had was a front wheel vibration at 70 or 80. I tried all the normal things, tyre balance, wheel tracking, suspension bushes etc. all ok. Naturally I did the normal wheel bearing checks, jack the wheel up, hold the wheel top and bottom, and left and right and pull hard to check for free play in a worn bearing. Nothing appeared wrong and the wheel turned freely, which left me scratching my head! But I did notice I could faintly hear the bearing turning, so I did the same test on my old LS430 (which had a major engine problem but no suspension issues) and I found the wheel on that car turned in absolute silence! Because I couldn't find anything else wrong I decided to fit a new wheel bearing, although I was put off by the Β£354 + vat quoted by my local main dealer just to supply a new bearing! Ebay though when I searched for, - Fit For Lexus LS430 LS 430 2000-2006 Front New Hub Wheel Bearing With ABS Sensor - , I found Titan Autoparts in London selling German made bearing units with a 2 year guarantee for less than Β£40 (Β£31 now) so I fitted one of their bearings and the problem went away. After that solved the problem I chanced the other bearing as well, both bearings have now been on the car for 15k miles and work fine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fit-For-Lexus-LS430-LS-430-2000-2006-Front-New-Hub-Wheel-Bearing-With-ABS-Sensor/282998928611 John N
    2 points
  9. Hi Phil and welcome to the LOC. Feel free to post up a picture or two...be interesting to see the colour combination. Here’s the link for servicing if you are interested, pretty good value in general I think. https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/servicing-and-maintenance/lexus-essential-care/#hero
    2 points
  10. When the battery is disconnected, you need to reset the windows, all you have to do is, go to each window, wind it down and hold the button for a few more seconds while the window is all the way down, need to do that for both the rears and the passenger side, should reset them for you.
    2 points
  11. It may sound silly but check your wheel nuts, had a similar feel to mine that turned out to be wheel nuts not as tight as they should have been! I also experienced a similar wobble at around 70 mph that I couldn't trace, but I cured it by fitting new front wheel bearings. Paid less than Β£40 each for some from Germany on Ebay. John N
    2 points
  12. Hi Phil and welcome to the Forum. I guess that at 7 years old and 98,000 miles you did not buy from a Lexus Dealer ? You are not the first to move from a German car to Lexus. Did you know that one can buy (a) Service Plan and also (b ) an Extended Warranty so long as the car is less than 10 years old and travelled less than 140,000 miles? And the Hybrid Battery is covered for 15 years from date of registration subject to a few conditions Look at the Lexus website for more information on these matters.
    2 points
  13. I've just done this to get a pair of wires from the engine bay fuse box to the centre console. If you look upwards in the passenger footwell, on the left side just about where the carpet ends you'll see the big rubber grommet taking the main loom through the bulkhead. It was easy enough to cut a hole in the grommet to pass my conduit through. I know that you want to go through the bulkhead on the driver's side so I think I'm right in saying that you'll find a loom in approximately the same position but if not you may have to use the passenger one anyway and run from left to right inside. Post No.12 in the following topic shows where I went through:
    2 points
  14. Similar problem here. I’ve checked the wheel alignment and bearings, all the swivel joints, no crash damage and the pull down child seat is free to move but it still tends to pull to the left. After complaining to the store manager the camber on all the aisles has been checked and found to be fine but it still seems worse approaching the frozen food section which may indicate temperature is a factor. Really struggling to find a solution now, if I don’t soon it’s going in the river.
    2 points
  15. PS You wrote "This generated 0% discussion on the LC forum 😞 so I have come back to the trusty F chat!" Reading the LC Forum from time to time draws me to the conclusion that LC owners are very different people to us F..ers
    2 points
  16. As it says, I finally went to a dealer to have a play in the rc f sport, I have liked the looks and it was time to see what it was like. This was a 67 plate in white which looked very nice with red leather in side. after getting to know the controls decided to give it some in sport mode and yeah it pulls well but the sound of that weedy engine.....what have they done to it, it sounded naff, no exhaust sound as I had the windows down to listen to nothing apart from some sort of engine up front, not impressed by now at all so went down some country roads and kicked its arse. Its got the power and handles well but I just listen to that weedy sounding engine, A four cylinder one at that, not even a V6 sound. I drove back to the dealer and parked it up very disappointed to say the least.. The sales guy was very keen to ask what I thought and all I said was its not for me as it sounds like a 1.6 corrolla . He then tried to tell me about the button on the left somewherre that you can get some sort of sound to come through the speakers to make it sound good.... Nope from me I just don't want one now...... So the RCF guys what does the 5.0L sound like and not with artificial sound through the speakers??? If your going to get some sort of sporty car its got to sound good just like the old straight 6 or V6 engines... or even the V8 engines.... what is happening to the old engines
    1 point
  17. Hi everyone, I have just traded in my 2012 Mercedes 250d Coupe for a Lexus IS300h F-Sport. I have had a look at the IS300h for a while and finally took the plunge and picked it up on Tuesday. I have been driving German cars for many years (2 BMW's, 2 Audi's and 1 Mercedes) but felt that they were all getting to feel the same and wanted something different. It's a 2013 model with the red leather seats and a sort of champagne silver exterior. Not sure what this colour is called but I love the colour combo on the car and I think the all round design is amazing!. It's done 98000 miles but to be fair still feels tight and drives great! So far I have found that the engine is far, far smoother than the Mercedes and I find myself trying to run on electric only at every opportunity. Maybe this will wear off in time or maybe it is because I am a tight Yorkshire man and this will continue until I change my car again! πŸ˜„ I am slowly getting used to the infotainment system which I found very confusing to start with. One thing I can't fathom out is how to play MP3 files from a USB stick. Every time I load some files the car just can't see them for some reason. Anyway, thanks for letting me join and I will see you around the forums πŸ‘
    1 point
  18. I have got 4 from Lexus Thanks Β£1.51 each plus vat
    1 point
  19. Or switch off all electronics in the house, leave any other electronics in your pockets indoors far from the car, take one key fob at a time outside and test it. Maybe I could write for Tommy Cooper after all πŸ˜‰
    1 point
  20. You have two cars both doing this? is it possible there's some source of interference nearby that's causing it to not work? Could you maybe move the car somewhere else and see if it starts working?
    1 point
  21. Not really - the alarm system is integrated with the locking/entry/exit system rather than the immobiliser.
    1 point
  22. I remember when water got into the fusebox of an old beemer I used to have the electrics went crazy. Not sure if it's been raining recently where you are but that might be worth a look.
    1 point
  23. Maybe get a mobile auto electrician out to have a look at it?
    1 point
  24. Actually thinking about it, the programming sequence is unlikely to help if turning the key in the ignition doesn't silence the alarm. So if I understand you correctly the engine starts but the alarm still sounds? That is odd indeed. The immobiliser chip is being recognised by the ignition system but not the alarm system.
    1 point
  25. Ask toyota it's their little dance haha
    1 point
  26. This is probably unlikely to help anyone else but what the hell. I'm going on a couple of very long road trips this year and wanted to replace my headlight bulbs before going with Osram Ultra Life so I don't have to worry about the bulbs going out. The indicator and high beams are easy enough just like other toyotas, just turn the socket and pull them out. The regular headlights however are a different matter as you can see in the attached photos. There's a big grey plastic circle thing which forms a seal with the headlight assembly and it was damn hard to undo. At first it seemed like it wouldn't budge and i was putting enough pressure on it that I was worried the plastic tabs would snap, but the trick is to put something in the notch at the top and then just keep pressure on it. There's a rubber seal around it which adds a lot of resistance and makes it turn very slowly. Once off you can reach in and twist the bulb out of its socket as normal. Remember to always wear gloves when handling halogen bulbs as the oil from your fingers can cause hot spots which can shorten their life.
    1 point
  27. Blimey Mark, were you a script writer for Tommy Cooper ? (Lol)
    1 point
  28. Have you tried reprogramming it? Instructions: Begin with: The driver's door open and unlocked. Key out of the ignition. 1. Insert and remove the key from the ignition switch 2 times within 5 seconds. NOTE: Steps 2 and 3 should be performed within 40 seconds. 2. Close and open driver's door TWICE. 3. Insert the key into the ignition and remove it. NOTE: Steps 4 - 6 should be performed within 40 seconds. 4. Close and open the driver's door twice. 5. Insert the key into the ignition. 6. Close the door. NOTE: Steps 5 and 6 should be reversed for the following models ONLY (close door first, then insert key into ignition): 2000 - 2005 Celica 2001 - 2003 Prius 2001 - 2005 ECHO 2001 - 2005 RAV4 2003 - 2004 Avalon 7. Turn the ignition switch from "Lock" to "On" and back to "Lock" at about 1 second intervals to select the desired mode: 1 time for ADD mode. 2 times for REWRITE mode. 3 times for CONFIRMATION mode. 5 times for PROHIBITION mode. 8. Remove the key from the ignition. 9. To confirm your mode selection, the power locks will now cycle "lock" to "unlock" a number of times corresponding to your key cycles in step 7. NOTE: If Confirmation or Prohibition modes have been selected, opening the door will complete the procedure. 10. For Add or Rewrite modes do the following within 40 seconds of Door Procedure Lock confirmation: A. Press both car transmitter Lock and Unlock buttons simultaneously between 1 and 1.5 seconds and release. B. Within 3 seconds of step A, press the transmitter Lock button for more than 1 second and release. If the keyless entry remote transmitter has been successfully programmed, the power locks will cycle "lock" to "unlock" once at this time. If there are problems with the remote transmitter or the procedure up to this point, the locks will cycle twice. If this occurs, verify that you have received the correct transmitter, and then repeat the above procedure. C. If multiple remotes are to be reprogrammed, repeat steps A and B. 11. Open the driver's door to conclude programming mode.
    1 point
  29. think the picture is a 'render' and makes use of LFA wing and wheels, I think the spy shots from testing didn't have such a wing on the rear... am I a bad person if I like it though? haha!
    1 point
  30. Mines the same, I generally subtract 10% from the displayed figures, when I do a pump to pump calculation I find that to be pretty spot on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  31. It sounds like the receiver has become corrupted, have you tried opening the car with the key ( presently your only method) putting the key into the ignition, turning it to ignition position and then leaving it there for around 8 minutes. Remove the key then reinsert and see if the engine starts. The receiver is normally located around the ignition lock. If that fails try disconnecting the car battery negative for a while to see if the system resets. Or even better get the AA out they fix most cars within 40 minutes according to the TV ads 😏
    1 point
  32. Talking of wheels I picked a a full set of IS250C ones the other week, the owner changed them soon after he purchased the car new and finally decided to get rid of them as he was β€œfed up of them taking up room in the garage and falling over them”. At the price I didn’t even haggle, gave him the Β£100.00 and got them in the boot soon as. Not sure what to do yet, I have 2 nearly new Pirelli P Zeros 245/45/18 (100Y) for the 8.5” rears and need another pair for the fronts which I understand should be 225/45/18. I was also considering putting a set of winter tyres on them but the car only does 1-2 K a year so probably not worth it.
    1 point
  33. Only had mine almost a year but it has been faultless - now almost five years old c36k - fuel around 45 winter and 55 mpg summer - mixture of town but also quite a few longish A road runs. I have paid for extended warranty on one of the two ISFs I owned and also on my wife's RX - but they expired and I do not regret renewing. I still have one on my 911 which has paid for itself around 7 times over but personally I would not bother with one on my IS - never had a service plan either but do whatever suits you.
    1 point
  34. Weight fallen off, stone stuck in tyre, all fluids ok?
    1 point
  35. Love the panel gaps around the boot. Along with the Great Wall (I know, it's an urban myth) those must be the only other man made thing visible from space...😬
    1 point
  36. Given your commute I would be looking at early 50s if you are about to maintain a steady speed on the motorways Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  37. my stupid computer keeps changing to caps on
    1 point
  38. As a slight diversion but still on topic, I am trying honestly, does anyone have a one of there own a sort of mini me I suppose. Ive looked at various on line sites that retail these but as always it's quite difficult to see how much of an accurate representation you are getting and not some piece of expensive rubbish. Here's a couple of pics of some, anyone got a really good sample ? Big Rat
    1 point
  39. 2010 USB ISF - all options ticked by first owner. Was my first choice for a colour and it was the right choice πŸ˜€
    1 point
  40. I just wonder if the cruise control had inadvertently been engaged as a possible cause. But I'm not a fan of "throttle by wire" systems where there is no mechanical link between the pedal and the throttle plate. An electronic issue can command the throttle plate to do anything. But TBW systems are in virtually all cars now since the late 90's. Even more scary are the "brake by wire" systems where the brakes are commanded electronically. Not an issue until that one time the computer says no...
    1 point
  41. The CC flange was the first to go on my Mark 1 and I had to failed attempts at welding it .When I got my Mark 4 the same thing was starting to happen so I used the Hard hat high temp paint to try to slow down this process.It is a resounding success and no further wasting as occurred. I know it is too late for your system but it is a reminder to other members that this process is inevitable if not tackled early. The first pic is on application the second after six months I put a quick cover spray on every year and it as never burned any of the paint off the actual flange.
    1 point
  42. Well there you go! Just don’t get them mixed up afterwards.
    1 point
  43. This worked for me. Dead easy and effective. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/K2-Pro-Lamp-Doctor-Headlight-Restorer-Paste-L3050/313049686174?epid=3032793183&hash=item48e337209e:g:eOcAAOSwhXxeNtaf
    1 point
  44. Morning, Just in case anyone is interested πŸ™‚ Just over a month now since I sold my beloved ISF and bought an FK8 Civic Type R so thought I would post a quick things I like, dislike, miss, regret and so on.... Historically, I have been a massive Honda fan which started when I was a kid in the 80's... Senna in a McLaren Honda, the dirt bikes on Streethawk (and Streethawk ofc) and then sat in a Honda NSX in 1989 as a 10 year old at the motor show with my Grandad which sealed the deal... At 21 I bought a 1998 DC2 Integra Type R which started my Honda ownership journey... I replaced the Integra with an S2000 at 25 which went well but didn't handle anywhere near as well as the Integra. The S2000 was replaced by a DC5 Integra Type R which was ace but I sold it to raise funds to move house and swapped it for cash my way plus my friends 1998 DC2 Integra Type R which reaffirmed what a great car the DC2 was (I was too young and not a good enough driver to appreciate my 1st one). Eventually, I went for something different, a Nissan 350Z. I loved the looks and the noise but it wasn't fast enough. It handled well but always felt like it needed another 50 - 100bhp to make it the car it should have been. A baby due meant the time for a bigger car... Queue the BMW 335i M Sport. Great car when it worked. Unfortunately this "Approved Used BMW" spent 11 weeks over the course of 12 months at BMW having turbos, injectors, fuel pumps, waste gates & lambda sensors replaced. Suffice to say, I am weary of BMW's. Went to replace the BMW with... shock horror... an FK2 Honda Civic Type R... Took the Mrs to see it and she wasn't happy... "You can't spend 33k on a Honda" was the response... queue my friend mentioning the Lexus ISF which I hadn't thought about and found one for 22k (I think it was) which the wife said was "much more reasonable" until she found out it was a 5L V8 but deal was done and it was on drive so 1 nil to me. 4 and a bit years and some 50k miles later, I longed for an FK8 Type R (possibly to do with Honda winning in F1 again) and one turned up at the dealer I purchased some of my previous Type R's from. A quick phone call and a socially distanced viewing at my house led to me placing deposit on an FK8 subject to test drive (I had driven one on an extended test drive before lock down so just had to make sure it drove and stopped). Put my ISF up for sale on here and Facebook for a fairly low price which took into account the TLC she needed. A pleasant chap from the Facebook Lexus group was in contact with me from the start and when I mentioned when it was due to go sooner rather than later, he drove down down about 260 miles the following day (in a pimp old school LS400 I might add) and bought my ISF for Β£200 more than Honda offered me in part-ex which I didn't mind as genuinely wanted it to go to an Lexus fan (he has an SC430 as well). So... Cutting a long story short... Few I like about the FK8 1 - Looks - I know they are subjective but I really like the look of it and always find myself looking at it when it's near 2 - Reaction - Good or bad, it turns heads. 3 - Handling - For a car that is the same size as the ISF (I think it's 5 cm shorter but wider than the ISF) it's a lot lighter and changes direction superbly. The diff is a masterpiece and I know it's a bit of a cliche but it feels more like a 4wd car than a Fwd car with the amount of grip it manages along with how it gets the power down. The adaptive dampers are great as well, comfort for when the wife and kids are in. Sport day to day. R for a track day 4 - Braking - The ISF brakes are great... the FK8 brakes are another level. I have also got the floating discs from the 2020 model to go on it before the annual Ring trip next month 5 - Tech - It's got all the gadgets being a GT. The head unit gets some bad press but using Android Auto it is fine - Spotify and Waze on main screen plus Google Assist works a treat πŸ™‚ 6 - Performance - Once moving.... it pulls and pulls and pulls. Not as quick off the line as the ISF but once moving, it is very rapid 7- Seats - They are great and the driving position is perfect. One thing I didn't like in the ISF were the seats. They weren't racy enough for me compared to an M3, RS4 or C63 that it was competing with. 8 - Running Costs - Tax is Β£150 a year compared with Β£580 or so, Insurance for me is Β£200 a year (ISF was 290) and obvious one is MPG (25+ around town and 40+ on motorway) 9 - The rear seats fold down so managed to blag it as being practical with the wife 10 - Best until last... The Gearbox... It's obviously a manual but it is a joy to use. Things I dislike about the FK8 1 - Noise (or lack of). The turbo spool and dump valve noise is quite cool but nothing compared to a V8. Exhaust note is non existent which is disappointing as there are plenty of cool sounding 4 pots out there (i30N, RS Megane, Golf TCR and so on). Exhaust on the shopping list. 2 - Niggles - Luckily under manufacturers warranty but she is going back in soon due to a few faults (all rain related). The auto wipers don't work, when it rains heavily the collision warning sensors can go off and I noticed condensation in one of the side lights by the front. 1st 2 issues are common faults. She was probably built the day they announced Swindon closing 3 - Interior (seats aside) - Not as plush as the Lexus in terms of materials and feels a bit more fragile than my ISF did. Also not sure I am a fan of the digital dash yet compared to some good old dials . Only one cup holder as well.... I am starting to sound old πŸ™‚ 4 - Wheels - 20 inch wheels look cool, but you have to avoid potholes like the plague for risk of cracking a rim. May have to invest in some smaller wheels in future 5 - Engine - It looks like a lawnmower (as in the actual engine). Did I mention lack of noise? It sounds like one as well Regrets 1 - Probably let the ISF go for too little money bearing in mind the price they are on AT but still got a fair amount more than WBAC 2 - I wasn't as bowled over on day 1 with the Civic as I was with the ISF but that was probably due to relief from getting away from the BMW. This was cleared up at Thruxton though where the Civic came into it's own πŸ™‚ 3 - The RCF - My buddy with an ISF keeps sending me links to RCF's which are now in budget.... I can't return yet surely πŸ˜‰ Anyhow... it has been an absolute pleasure owning an ISF. I would buy another one in a heartbeat. In fact, a late one is on my list along with the RCF and GSF as things to replace the Type R with πŸ˜‰
    1 point
  45. Ok, curioser and curioser as Alice would say! I tried your suggestion Chris (thanks very much) but sadly it didn't work. I found a Youtube video done by a guy called 'speedkar99' in which he was programming a key for some other model of Lexus, so I contacted him and asked if that same procedure would work on a 2005 RX300. He said no, but to follow the instructions in this video here for the RX300. The first part of the video deals with programming the immobiliser and the latter part with programming the remote locking. If I insert my old broken key into the steering lock without any electronics the car cranks but will not fire up. When I try it with my new key with transponder, the car fires up and runs as expected, thereby proving that the immobiliser part is working correctly. The procedure for programming the remote locking is as follows: Start with all doors closed Open driver's door Insert key, remove key Insert key, remove key Close door, open door Close door, open door Insert key, close door Turn key to 'On' position* then off Remove key The locks will now cycle to indicate that you're in programming mode Hold lock and unlock buttons down together for 1.5 seconds then release Press any button on the key and the locks will now cycle to indicate programming has been successful Exit programming mode by opening door *At step No.8 in the video, he turns the key on and there's a beep before he turns it off again - mine does NOT beep. However, at Step No.10, my locks DO cycle, which would sort of imply that all previous steps have completed successfully - wouldn't it? Unfortunately, after holding down the lock/unlock buttons simultaneously (Step 11), my locks do NOT cycle as they should (Step 12). What does that all mean and what can I do now?
    1 point
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