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All car sat navs have lat / long coordinates so I’m not too bothered about WTW in my car. I do have it on my iPhone though. By the time Lexus get around to it it’ll be some new innovative tech in the new MY85 Lexus Flying Car.

I'd hazard a guess at either a sticky starter solenoid or sticky starter motor as most likely, or perhaps an intermittent connection. You'll need either a multimeter or at the very least a 12V bulb in a holder with wires attached to act as a test lamp. When you turn the key, power is supplied on a relatively thin wire to the starter solenoid, which is essentially a big electromagnet. Once that magnet is energised it pulls a pair of big heavy contacts together that then allow power to flow on the big thick wires from the battery to the starter motor. The thick wire from the battery to the solenoid should have 12V on it permanently, so check for that first. If that's OK then you need someone to turn the key to the 'Start' position while you check for the presence of 12V at one of the solenoid coil terminals. Actually, my bacon butties are nearly ready so rather than risk an errant squidge of brown sauce or egg yolk dropping on the keyboard, it may be best if you have a look here at this website that will expain things better than I could do anyway.

At first i want to say hello to everyone as a new user :) I have a 2007 is250, today i noticed there is something wrong with 1st gear. When i try to move from 0, car have some kind of delay with it, it fell like a transmission is kinda slippery. I checked it on manual mode, and after changing from 1st to 2nd engine have more rmp on 2nd than on 1st. (Attached video of that) That's weird because other gears don't have that problem. Thanks.

Hi! I'm new here and new to lexus in general but I fell in love with one the other day and I've not long just got back from London with my new car - really impressed! I sold my 3 series and managed to pick up a 2006 Lexus IS250 Mark Levinson on 143k miles with full stamped Lexus Service History, mechanically the car is a pleasure. For some reason though, the screen doesn't come on and lights aren't illuminated on the central console, looking online I can see this is a common issue, and can be quite costly! I paid £1200 which is great but it would be nice to have the centre system working, the guy I bought the car off has bought fuses so I'm assuming the fuses are okay, any idea what this could be? Radio still works, I can still see the clock etc, the bottom half of the console seems to work fine it's just the screen and a few buttons not illuminating. Any ideas? Thanks for reading and glad to.be here!

Errrrrr, might be missing something here gents but you plastidip the badges with the badges on the car! After its dried for a few hours the plastidip just peels off the bodywork and breaks at the junction between the bodywork and the logos. You just mask off a square around the logos and paint the whole square. Did mine when I first got the car but went back to standard after a few months. No need to remove the logos to plastidip them. That's the whole point of plastidip! Or am I missing something here!?!

Hello Greg welcome to the LOC and supporting the club with your gold membership. Good to see our members as always helping to sort out the problem you had

Hi Eltel, Because the car was parked in my garage the parking brake was not on. Now I've pressed it the DVD plays perfectly!!!!! Thank you for this information. Best Wishes, Greg

Hi Greg, I had exactly the same problem with my CT and John(Britprius) put me right...I hadn't applied the parking brake. As soon as I put the brake on, everything worked perfectly. If you've made the same mistake as I did, you could be good to go. Regards Eltel

Thanks john, hoping that the spar (strut) which is designed to hold the wheel in true line, can be welded. It seems the bar or pis it pipe(?) has broken away at the Bush point. May not be possible without melting the Bush if done in situ, is my thinking. You were lucky to tell the tale.

Congratulations on your purchase - hope you will be as delighted as we are with an identical model. I know that our wonderful motor is fitted with a CD player but I haven't tried it with a DVD as it wouldn't occur to me it could be a DVD player - perhaps yours is also a CD player do you think?

Lamda Sensor.

Hi Greg and welcome to L.O.C. Nice car you have bought. My initial thoughts are; 1. Have you followed the instructions as per Handbook? 2. What does the Handbook tell you about "no entry?" 3. Is the DVD an original or a copy ? 4. Why are you inserting a DVD as UK legislation does not normally permit playback whilst the vehicle is operational ? I do not own a CT ,so if I`m barking up the wrong tree,then others will come along to help. Have a great time with a fabulous CT!

I would endeavor to get my money back from the trader. If you leave it to the trader to fix it for you and they are prepared to do this, you might end up with a unit he has purchased from a breaker that may be oil tight but has covered many more miles and who knows how long that will give satisfactory service. Are you prepared to take this chance? Many years ago I bought my first BMW, a 528 petrol of about 1997 vintage. The air bag warning light was on and the trader agreed to pay for the cost of a BMW dealer doing what was necessary to fix this. I took it to a franchised BMW dealer who said while investigating this that the car needed a replacement bottom end because it had the 'Nikasil' problem, (premature failure of coating on cylinder bores), a widespread issue at the time. In view of relatively low mileage BMW agreed to replace the bottom end FOC but would not pay for pulling the motor out and transferring the existing head onto the replacement block and refitting. This would still have been expensive and the trader refused to pay for this. He said he could buy a used engine from a breaker and install this for £500 and offered this instead. But I bought the car on the strength of it being low mileage and was not prepared to chance any used engine of unknown provenance being fitted. Luckily the trader had previously collected it from the BMW dealer as I refused to drive it. I took the case to the small claims court but the dealer failed to attend and the judgement was given against the trader who failed to return my cash. It wasn't until the trader was told that bailiffs would be attending his premises to remove cars that he responded and I got my money back. So persistence paid. As a point of interest, does anybody know whether there are any independent specialists that rebuild Toyota/Lexus transmissions.? There are many that do conventional manual or automatic boxes of course.

Bit more to update, ive got hold of a 2nd hand front bumper that needs painting and also bought a front lip to go with it. Gave it a trial fit and fettled with the lip to get it right, need some stronger bond though to get the brackets to fit. As you can see the lip is too long for the European front bumper so i had to carefully cut the edges flush with the edge of the bumper. As for the headlamp washer jet covers i was going to fill the hole and smooth it off but i think its going to be tricky to replicate to lines of the front bumper. Im just going to get them painted and bond them on.

Thanks Herbie I'll give that a go

Is the sports mode on - i find gear changes in auto mode a bit jerky at top rev with the sports mode on - much smoother with it off... just a thought ?

Welcome to Europe's Leading Lexus Club! Please Enjoy!

how did the old oil smell? it should darken over time as it collects/cleans impurities away from the engine I've read some mixed reviews about oil flush treatments.... my preference is always for more regular oil changes, 6000mile max.. now you have new oil, keep an eye, if it goes black after a month, then change oil again, that should help drain away the impurities it has picked up from the sump... don't be tempted to use any old cheap oil, always keep to the right grade (my preferred brew is millers oils).

Too late, the Ford Anglia (Harry Potter Special Edition) has already claimed that title.

Did you have it serviced a a Lexus dealer if so get a quote for repair and take the quote to the dealer you purchased the car from .without any more info that's all anyone can suggest at the moment .

Hello Mitch and welcome to the LOC. Posting at 1.00 am either means the excitement of a new car or the worry of a problem must have kept you awake. At the price you paid I would have slept soundly even with the problem 😀 Not come across the problem you have got personally, I know the cause on the LS400 but will see what I can find out for you. Worst scenario is getting a good working unit from a breaker, there again there are a lot of fuses to check and you may be lucky if one has been missed. Pretty sure other owners will chip in with suggestions. I found this, fuses to check are Nos. 4 and 12 in the passenger fuse box. https://knigaproavto(blocked word)/shemy/en/lexus/is/746-2006-2013-lexus-is-250-300-350-220d-fuse-box-diagram.html

Hello Mitch and welcome to the LOC. Posting at 1.00 am either means the excitement of a new car or the worry of a problem must have kept you awake. At the price you paid I would have slept soundly even with the problem 😀 Not come across the problem you have got personally, I know the cause on the LS400 but will see what I can find out for you. Worst scenario is getting a good working unit from a breaker, there again there are a lot of fuses to check and you may be lucky if one has been missed. Pretty sure other owners will chip in with suggestions.

This is a sign of low oil level and as a result the oil pressure is low, hence the clutches slip. Check it according to the manual. All " sealed " for life and maintenance free automatic transmissions need their oil and filter replaced. For my car if my memory serves me right, the oil must be changed every 62000 miles or 4 years. I am not quite sure of the figures, other learned members with better memory will correct me. Refer to Lexus tech doc for up to date information. Chris.

Conversely, I used to use Lexus Edgware when I lived in London and they were excellent. There is a story on here that I posted years ago about the lengths they went to fixing a problem on my old IS.

Yes

Could be a buckled rim. I had this on a beemer some years ago now, both nearside rims were bent from hitting potholes and caused wobble/vibration at certain speeds. Had them straightened and it was much better.

Lexus Edgeware quoted me once 50% extra compared to Guildford which I use for many years now. I've been at Twickenham few times to watch some cars and got and positive experience. Hayes no opinion.

Hi Pete, I'm not much of a chatterer on here, but can I just say well done for surviving. This would have been a poorer place without you. : o )

Well I am very pleased to say that Autoglass did a first class job with my replacement windscreen. They have fitted a genuine Lexus screen and the camera alignment etc was all carried out and tested without any issues. All my worries were happily, unfounded.

Hi John Autotrader is the best place - most private sellers and dealers will advertise there. eBay is another option but IMO not as good. There aren't many GS vehicles for sale as they didn't sell many in the first place, especially the petrol only versions. Most will be for sale at dealers as selling privately is difficult, it can take some time to find a buyer as it isn't a popular vehicle. You are unlikely to get more than £1,000 off the price of a vehicle priced at £10,000 unless you find things wrong with it which gives you some leverage. It can be nice to find an honest private seller but you have legal rights if you purchase from a business so I'd recommend the latter. Here is some info on the subject: https://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/advice/the-car-i-bought-has-a-problem-what-are-my-rights

More wise words Herbie.

Didn't have the parking brake on ! Car was on level ground in the drive and I had forgot to put brake on,basic operator error on my part.I applied brake and video worked perfectly. Many thanks John and all others for their input.

A few weeks ago my aircon stopped working with the AC light flashing. The Air Conditioning isn't an area I know a lot about at all so contacted a mobile Aircon Specialist to have a look. After a few checks it looked like the compressor at fault, either the compressor itself or the magnetic clutch assy. 12v was being applied to the clutch but clutch wasn't engaging so it wasn’t the aircon relay at fault (I presume). So system de gassed and we agreed that I would purchase a new compressor, fit it and then he will re gas the system. I also received some tips/information on what to do while replacing the compressor. New Denso compressor and drier kit purchased from RockAuto Friday afternoon and it arrived the following Monday afternoon, pretty good service. I replaced the compressor on Saturday and I'm waiting for it to be re gassed next week. I thought I'd post some information on how I did it and what bits I needed to remove in order to remove the compressor which may be useful for anyone else that needs to do it or is thinking of doing it. I may have forgot a few details so don't take this as 'gospel' but the basics are there. It took me 4-5 hours to do but I took my time and replaced the drier as well. If I had to do it again it would be 2 hours max. I knew the V belt had to be removed so started with that, removed smallish battery cover, air cleaner inlet and fan with viscous coupling. So it then looked like this. Disconnected the aircon lines to the compressor, placed a rubber glove round each one and wrapped insulation tape round to seal as best I could to stop any moisture entering the system. Used some cable ties to hold the pipes out of the way. Disconnected the aircon electrical connector. Jacked up the car at the passenger side and removed the under tray so I could then get to the compressor from underneath. One quick look told me the compressor has to be removed from the top. I'd already removed the fan assy but I needed to remove the fan cowling as well. 4 x bolts (2 x at the bottom and 2 at the top with captive square nuts) rh one at the top and the 2 x bottom bolts were rusted so plenty of plus gas and left for a while then removed them relatively ok. Had a good look for the 3 x compressor mounting bolts, there are a quite a lot of wires and pipes around this area plus a lot of dirt that will end up on your face and in your eyes while doing the job so wear some glasses or goggles at the very least. Make sure you locate the correct bolts by having a good look at the new compressor as you could easily start undoing the wrong stuff like the oil filter housing/pump. LH bottom bolt is easy to see and remove, LH top is relatively easy but not a lot of room, the RH one at the back isn't easy to see so you need a light to shine round and get to it with a long extension. I removed the plastic engine under cover as well (shown below and be careful of rusted bolts for this as well…………) to give me better access to the RH bolt. Un clipped the fastener for the aircon electrical connector cable which is attached to the compressor. Removed the 3 x bolts, bottom 2 are the same size and the LH top bolt is longer. You will need to work out how to do this yourself with ratchet/extension etc. There are some brackets that are attached with the bolts so take note of these. Wiggled the compressor forward and rested it on the roll bar then removed it carefully from the top between the front of the engine and radiator. Installed the new compressor (see next section about the compressor itself), bolted in place and torqued the bolts to 49nm. Re fitted the aircon line connectors and torqued down the nuts to 10nm after thoroughly cleaning (super clean as best I could), fitting new 'o' rings with a smear of compressor oil, smearing some compressor oil in the compressor connector 'holes'. Reconnected the aircon electrical connector. Installed V belt after cleaning all the pulleys etc. Reinstalled fan cowling, fan assy, smallish battery cover, air cleaner inlet, under trays (basically everything that was removed) and removed jack. Started car and made sure everything still turns correctly. The compressor I received did not have the valve suction plate (the bit with the aircon pipe connectors) but rather a blanking/transit plate, at first I thought I’d bought the wrong one but after reading the instructions it became clear I hadn’t. I needed to remove the suction plate from the old compressor and install it in the new compressor. Make sure the surfaces are super clean, smear some compressor oil on the new seal etc. The new compressor came pre filled with compressor oil but way more than needed probably for transit purposes. You will need to drain out the oil from the old compressor and the new compressor into some separate containers of the same size. Compare the difference and replace the same amount of new oil into the new compressor that came out of the old compressor plus a little bit more. I drained the oil after removing the suction plates and refilled the new compressor after the suction plate was installed. You will need to re fill the new compressor via the hole that ‘sucks’. To find out which one it is, put your thumb on one of the holes and turn the compressor clock wise. You will soon discover which hole ‘sucks’ and which ‘blows’. After refilling with the correct amount of oil turn the compressor over clockwise a few times to distribute the oil inside then fit to the car. There were instructions with the compressor about all this but above is what you basically need to do.

Lucky to be alive. Car rear hub strut arm failed at 20mph a mile from our place in France. Parked it 2 days back and 2nd time removing wheel found trailing arm to right of hub. Fatal? Any views? Nearby Garage we would have passed as on way to tip. Lovely English guy stopped and took our three large bags of rubbish to the tip and drove us back home in his van. My neighbour says garage is good and they speak English. Fear car is w/off???

Wow, be thankful you weren't on a motorway!

Gosh Stuart,so sorry to read that and glad that you have escaped unscathed. A similar thing happened to us 7 years ago in Spain, when we were overtaken by one of our rear wheels ! I hope to learn that the car is salvageable and hope that you have effected some kind of insurance cover. Best wishes.I`d hit the Claret if it were me !!