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Although a sticking caliper can cause disc rust with hybrids the discs will rust anyway if the car is driven gently. Braking in neutral on a downhill stretch of road once or twice a month will help keep the discs clear of rust. In neutral the regen braking is cancelled forcing the use of the mechanical brakes. Sticking caliper pins tends to cause rust on one side of the discs. A sticking caliper piston will cause rust on both sides of the disc where single piston calipers are used. Where multiple piston calipers are used one sticking piston will cause rust on the same side of the disc as the sticking piston. John.

Well I've managed to set the car clock to GMT. General settings, select Daylight Saving to 'off'. Watched the dash clock whizz backwards and the job's a good un.

Hi Herbie, thanks for that, found it under the glovebox tucked right up behind on near side. You need to be a midget contortionist t see it let alone access it.

Can you google me with the details of your whine merchant, old pal ?

Please remember guys - Lexus cars do have faults but they often repair themselves! This is NOT fantasy or myth! I have experienced this on more than THREE occasions! Others on this website can also testify to this phenomena! There is a little anti-gremlin, secreted away in every Lexus car during manufacture. It can't repair everything, due to its small size, but it is particularly good at repairing electrical faults. Sadly if you have a recurring electrical fault, that you can not resolve without resorting to a garage,then I am afraid your anti-gremlin has escaped or run away because you have been speaking to your car aggressively. Calm nice words sooth the anti-gremlin. Colin Barber, on here may be able to add more information concerning this special addition to Lexus cars. I am sure there are many examples peeps on here can testify to!

Life is too short to be so focused on economy surely? 😀

I did. I only used what was on the shelf at Halfords, primer, silver, and clear coat. I know it's not as robust as powder coating but I did enjoy the process and I'm happy with the result! I bought new tyres so it was much easier having the old ones removed first.

Have to say I'm the same. Paid a fortune over the years but largely back where I started, buying Autoglym stuff from Halfords.

I used to have my RX washed by the car wash boys but the local place changed hands and they wanted £15 to wash my RX which I thought was a bit much. After washing it myself it didn't seem such a bad deal. It's big and the roof is difficut to get at. However, I persevered and now I have a way of washing it that doesn't break my back or the bank. I bought a fleece wash mitt on an extending pole on the internet to do the front screen and roof , makes life much easier. I use Bilt Hamber shampoo (expensive but only 5ml required in 10 litres of water) after flushing the dirt with a hose , rinse off with the hose, then some CarPlan Trade Hi-Wax Rinse mixed 50/50 in a spray bottle. Spray over while the car is wet and wipe off /drywith one of those noodle mitts then go round after with a large microfibre cloth to finally dry it and remove any smears. Leaves the car shiny and nice and slippery to the touch and the wax coating seems to shed water and dirt and stay shiny until the next wash which might be 3-4 weeks away. I've tried all the reassuringly expensive waxes etc in the past and never been that impressed. This way seems to work and it's cheap.

Very interesting discussions, but I have to confess what I've seen in the last 48hrs has 100% changed my view on car ownership and whats coming very soon. I remember the watching Steve Jobs slide to unlock the iPhone back in 2007 and than looking at my Palm Treo realising that it was nothing more than a paper weight, I now see this for every single car onsale today. Robotaxis aren't just coming, for American cities with Waymo they are already here. Tesla aren't far behind either. I just cannot get my head around the idea of buying a brand new car that cannot offer near full autonomous driving now. Why would you spend so much ££££ on technology thats already been superceded?? The legislation will take a few years to catch up, the tech still needs to mature, but the future of personal transportation is already here, and Tesla aside I cannot see how any of the current car manufactures will remain relevant. Waymo (Google) is well on their way of becoming the mega cooperation running our lives......for better or worse :). https://youtu.be/ZsfUmU30kWY https://youtu.be/t9fmNRLwuOw

The sort of Dilemma I would be happy to have, at least as a younger man LOL! People value, choose and decide on cars for a multitude of reasons and needs and indeed priorities can change over the years, the latter being the reason why I settled for the RX. After having numerous cars of different kinds, I decided I needed something that was first and most importantly comfortable. Getting in and out of my 5 series BMW meant I had to cling onto the pillar and the occasional long journey was not so comfortable. I decided it would have to be an suv so it then came down to which one. I have driven diesels but prefer petrol and there was developing a bias against diesels anyway so that ruled out a number of suv's. Also, I wanted a middle to large model. I ruled out BMW as unlike my old 5 series it has no spare wheel of any description and 'run flat tyres' that most drivers dislike. I read the Audi Q5 was prone to a number of problems as was the VW Touareg. There was a MB suv coupe I liked but was put off by reading RHD models were adversely affected by the different front transmission causing 'crabbing' also a problem with some 4 door suv's. Jaguar also have their problems. Range rover are well known to have problems. I like 6 cylinder cars and the Volvo has gone down to 4 even in their larger model. So of premium cars it left the RX which benefitted through having electrical regeneration and assist, a good reputation, adequate acceleration and above all else is comfortable. I prefer the 3rd Gen for looks and size although the 4th Gen is nicer inside and more refined. If I do change it will be most probably for an all electric one when these and the infrastructure are better developed.

Cracker!!! it’s often said that you can’t be a proper petrol head unless you’ve owned a Volvo 😂

My car had the not unusual cam phaser cold start up rattle from when I first bought it. I found a relatively easy method of curing this, and at the same time reducing cold start engine ware. The method consists of fitting an engine pre lubrication system to give oil pressure before the engine starts. I made the system up using readily available parts that should cost no more than £25 in total. I have had this system running for over a year now. Ebay is your friend here for parts. The parts required are followed by pictures :- (1) A fluid control solenoid valve suitable for oil with a 12 volt coil, and 1/2" BSP ports. (2) 2 x 1/2" to 1/4" BSP adapters male to female. (3) 1 x 1/4" BSP "T" piece female (4) 1x 1/4 BSP male to male coupler (5) 1 x Grease gun flexible hose with 1/4 BSP ends. (standard fitting) (6) A pressure container that holds approximately 1Ltr, and will withstand 100 PSI minimum. (see text) (7) Some form of mounting brackets for the above. (I used 3" exhaust clamps for the cylinder I used.) Solenoid valve. 1/2" to 1/4" adapter 1/4" BSP "T" 1/4" BSP male coupler Flexible hose rated at 900 bar more than capable of the at most 4 bar it will be used for. The pressure container (empty gas bottle) with solenoid valve attached. The flexible hose screw into the bottom of the solenoid with the tank vertical. The hose then goes to the "T" that is fitted on the oil pressure outlet. The oil pressure switch is removed from the top of the oil filter housing, and the 1/4" male to male fitting screwed in its place. The "T" piece is then screwed onto the male fitting, and the oil pressure switch then screws into one of the available ports on the "T" piece witch ever is the most convenient. The flexible hose is then screwed into the other port. This completes the work on the engine. The end of the flexible hose screws into one of the 1/2" to 1/4" BSP fittings, and this in turn is screwed into the port on the solenoid with the arrow on the bottom of the solenoid pointing to it. The other 1/2" to 1/4" fitting is screwed into the other port on the solenoid with the 1/4" male to male screwed into it. The tank is screwed onto this, and mounted vertically with the solenoid at the bottom. " so that the oil enters the bottom of the tank" I used PTFE tape on all the threads, but any suitable sealant could be used. You can if you wish fit a lever type tap in the line from the engine to isolate the system This completes the plumbing. The solenoid was chosen with 1/2" ports because it has a larger internal port opening to assist quick oil flow. Electrical. This can be as simple or complicated as you wish as a basic push button operation or a completely automatic system using a timer from the cars start button. I am for the moment just giving the simple version. One of the two wires from the solenoid is grounded. The other wire is extended to a suitable position on the dash to a push button switch this switch is fed via a 5amp fuse from a permanent 12 volt feed. This completes the basic electrical work. Operation. The car is started in the normal way the first time, and allowed to run for a minute or so then turned off. Check the oil level, and top up as required. The amount depends on the size of the tank your have chosen. This only needs doing at the first start up after fitting the system. The system operates by the tank being partly filled with oil at engine pressure while the engine is running. the solenoid valve allows oil to pass through it in the reverse direction to that of the arrow on the bottom of it. The air in the tank is trapped, and compressed to engine oil pressure with the engine running. When the engine is stopped the solenoid will not let the oil under pressure out of the tank. When you wish to start the car press and hold the newly fitted button for about 10 seconds to give time for the oil to get into the engine. This will open the solenoid and the oil at engine pressure will flow round the engine filling the cam phasers, and lubricating all the moving parts. Then push the start button in the normal way. The engine will start without the noise, and the tank will refill with oil ready for the next start. The tank I used was an empty blow torch gas bottle. These hold gas under pressure at around 100 PSI, and are capable of holding well over double that pressure for safety reasons. I drilled and tapped the valve end of the bottle to 1/4" BSP. Any container that will hold 60 PSI reliably, and with a capacity of about a Ltr or more will work, but the inlet to the tank must be positioned at the bottom. It also must be perfectly clean inside. I calculate that depending on actual engine oil pressure the tank will fill to about 3/4 of it's actual capacity based on 45/50 PSI oil pressure. The flexible hose can be a made up hose from company's such as Pertech, but must be capable of holding the engine oil pressure reliably. The bore of the hose should be large enough so as not to restrict oil flow. This is possibly the downside of using a grease gun hose, but they are rated at 900 bar 13410 PSI so no chance of it bursting, and are an off the shelf item. The length of the hose should be chosen to suit the mounting position of the tank. Sorry I could not get pictures of the system fitted, and I will answer any questions as there are bound to be things I have missed. John.

Had 4 Goodyear eagle F1 fitted to the IS. It was still on original Bridgestones from factory Have to say they've completely transformed the car. Dead quiet, no more road noise associated with tyres and the ride is much improved. Well worth it. Not to mention they stick round the corners like glue as well.

There is a new listing on fleabay which has already attracted bids to over £2305.00 with over 9 days to go. This is with no current MOT, a coolant leak and requiring “a HT lead”. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-LS-400/174492529250?hash=item28a090b262:g:fqAAAOSwHXRflHe4 Admittedly it does looks clean, genuine and with a quoted mileage of 29,000. However a quick check on its MOT history reveals a different story with mileage in 2006 showing around 65,000, 66000 in 2007 and a mere 325 in 2008. From 2008 the mileage appears consistent. Probably had the cluster replaced but obviously a lot more mileage than showing with another 65,000 to go on top. Another thing is why not get it MOTd before selling.

Armytrix or GThaus systems both valvetronic ie you can open or close the valves via bluetooth on app on phone (Armytrix) or remote control to make it louder or quiteish 😂 i personally have the Armytrix system there not cheap tho both systems come in around the 5k mark

Crest Motorsport do a manual conversion kit using the J160 gearbox from the IS200 and an adaptor plate 🙂 https://crestmotorsportnw.co.uk/products/is300-manual-conversion-j160?_pos=1&_sid=5d19c5f5b&_ss=r

Thanks everyone I am getting much better economy now, just needed A different approach to that I am used to. I love the is, get comments all the time, mine is a sport in imola red. Interesting comments about the UX, I would have thought it was more economic due to the newer software etc. Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk

Having a smile reading BMW forum, when guys feel so relieved after passing and MOT test, some of them describing it while waiting as sitting in a corridor at dentist waiting for an appointment or sitting and waiting while your wife is giving a birth! lol! 🙂 I just told them that I used to be like that, always worried and saving money for every service and MOT as something gotta go wrong and then all stopped - I bought a Lexus! 🙂 God, may be I am lucky with this GS but I had no issues so far and if it can last couple more years I will be happy! The only problem is, by that there will be no Lexus I would like to own, I like the RX but in 2022 it will be expensive to run, I think fuel prices will go up much higher! Probably electric? 🙂

Then please do not forget to renew your annual subscription to our straight six club, matey!

I LOVE your posts John! Don't always understand them... but I do love them!

I think it is a mindset. I can afford, with the small mileage I do, a vehicle that does 22 mpg. I chose not to by going with a hybrid. The 400h gives you the grunt of a big V6 (not straight six!) plus the extra immediate torque of the electric motor. I do not know what I would get out of my 400 if I drive it hard but locally on very short journeys I am getting 27 mpg. I am "happy" with this economy but it pales compared with the IS 300h. I just giggle to myself that I am nearly getting V8 performance (when required) with 2.0 litre petrol economy! I know a guy who has a Range Rover and drives it like Lewis Hamilton - he is actually PROUD that he can get under 10 mpg! Horses for courses. But it is NOT just about money. I actually agree with Paul, the emphasis on mpg is over stated. It is the total "experience" of ownership that matters. Love of driving said vehicle - repair cost - depreciation - servicing - road tax - mpg - all go into the mix (and possibly other things I have not considered) to add up to how much we enjoy our vehicles. For me, one of the downsides now is the amount of traffic on the roads, A long leisurely drive in an LS 400 (with lots of money in your current account to stay at nice hotels) across France, in decent weather, would be my ideal of driving heaven! Kids and a dog tend to spoil the dream!

Some interesting views in here re tyres. I’d much rather have soft grippy tyres than hard slippy tyres. I’m always happy to trade grip, comfort and higher wear rates for low grip uncomfortable tyres that last forever. Goodyears and Michelins are about the best you can buy, agreed.

Thanks John, this is what Colin Barber suggests as well. Hybrid owners might want to take note.

Once a week should be plenty. The first time you do this you may have to repeat the operation several times to remove a build up of rust, but once cleaned an occasional operation should be enough. John.

When I had a Prius as a taxi, I used to take the brakes apart annually, and never had a problem after the first seizure. Other drivers that used to use hand car washes seemed to have problems as the chemicals and regular blasting of the power hosing took their toll. Don't do it now on my Lexus, as I fear that it may invalidate the warranty. If there's a problem they seem to be covered according to previous reports.

Hi Victor, Welcome to the LOC. This thread may be a good place to start:- You should also take a look at the NX300h forum in general:- https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/forum/182-lexus-nx300h-nx200t-club/ I drive a 2018 NX300h and absolutely love it. I have no regrets getting it and would definitely consider choosing another one when the time comes.

And avoid computer controlled systems designed by Boeing ?

Was it an insurance repair? If so, say you are not happy with it. If not, I would check what you asked to have repaired. Could you take it back as not finished? Or, if no other options, find a different trusted independent?

Hi! The issue in picture format: From what I've read on various forums, it seems to be fairly common that the wheels on the 3rd Gen GS (and also other models such as the IS) suffer from cases of corrosion. This was something which my own 2008 GS300 also unfortunately was a victim of. Being in the scenario that my tires would require changing in maybe a couple of years, I wanted to fix this with two primary parameters in mind: * Not too expensive since the tires (and then maybe also wheels) would require changing in some time anyway. * Not something I wanted to spend weeks on doing. I could spend a day fixing this but not much more. So here is my refurbishing journey, hopefully helpful for someone in the same or similar situation as myself. What you need in terms of material to accomplish what I did: * Cleaning material to ensure the wheels are completly clean before painting. Don't know the proper terms for this in english (I used "rödsprit", denatured ethanol). * Primer paint. (I used 2 spray cans) * Wheel spray paint (I used 3 spray cans) * Clear coat spray (I used 1 can) * Sanding material (60-240 paper for the really tough parts) * Wet-sanding material (400-1200 paper. I used 800) Picture of the paint products I used: (Hagman / Auto-K primer) (Auto-K Wheel Spray Titan Silver) (Auto-K Wheel Spray Clear Laquer) Step 1: Get the wheels of the car Step 2: Get the wheels to a comfortable place and start sanding the corrosion away. The more time you spend doing this the better the end-result will be. However, this is also the (in my opinion) most boring and most labour-intensive step. I used a Fein Multimaster to assist me with this step: With this tool I removed the worst parts of the corrosion with a 120 grit paper, and then finished off by hand-sanding with 120 grit and 240 grit paper. This is how one of the wheels looked after performing this step: Step 3: Apply the primer paint. Do this by applying several coats of thin paint layers. Step 4: Allow the primer to dry. After this, the spots requiring more sanding will be clearly visible. This is now solved by wet-sanding. The same wheel after performing this step: Step 5: Start applying the base coats, by still doing thin layers and then several coats. (To the left is a wheel with base coat applied, to the right one with only primer applied) Step 6: Apply the clear coat. Same as before - thin layers and cultiple coats. Step 7: Allow the wheels to dry (overnight preferably) Step 8: Put the wheels back on and hopefully enjoy the result of your hard work. The actual result actually looks better than the picture above tells. The end-result looks a lot more "popping" and more silver in terms of the color of the wheel than what the picture shows. So all in all - were my parameters initially set up (cost & time) met? * Cost -> Total cost was about 70£ (800SEK), including cost of paint and sanding material * Time -> It took me about a day to perform the steps mentioned above. I started Saturday morning and put the wheels back on Sunday morning (they dried overnight). I cut a lot of time waiting for the paint to dry by working on the wheels sequentially. When one wheel had its base coat drying, one had the primer drying, one was being wet-sanded and one was being initial-sanded for instance. Hopefully this helps anyone wondering if this is a DIY-job or not. Since I did not remove the tires, and did not sink the wheels into acid totally removing the corrosion it will probably eventually come back. However, spending one day to give me ease of mind not having to look at the horrible state of the wheels was enough reason for me to do it.

Hes old. Still thinks diesels are better for fuel economy and driveability despite driving only 3000 miles a year

Rayaans! Do you not get on with your father-in-law? Shock! Horror and Indignation! Your posts on here are very persuasive! Have you not been able to convinced your father-in-law to buy a Lexus?

Welcome Nick, The auto-tilt mirrors are only found on cars that have memory seats and I don't think that's something that was available on the Advance trim level. Advance is a nice model to be looking for though. Strong standard equipment like Andrew mentioned, plus has the newer F-Sport style front bumper. Some great exterior/interior colour combos available on them too. Good luck with your search. Note that around 2012, the Advance also came with a few more changes like 18" wheels and the newer style xenon headlights with DRLs incorporated.

Because I've a few cars and time is a factor I'd only do the clay bar, polish and wax thing once or twice a year (furlough helped immensely this year). The Bilt Hamber range is great for this, used their auto balm a few months back and it sped up the process greatly although I still keep a tub of Autoglym HD handy for the final coat. In my regular cleaning technique I use products from a local company which are really difficult to beat: Apply Anachem Articulate to dry paintwork and allow to dwell Snowfoam the vehicle with Anachem Ultrafoam Wash mitt, two buckets and Anachem Gleam (the Cherry Cola smells great) Rinse then use Anachem Ultragloss as a drying aid For the wheels I'd use the Anachem purge to loosen any stubborn brake dust then wheel cleaning brush and rinse. If time permits a coat of Anachem Hybrid adds extra shine I know that's a lot of mentions of Anachem but they offer bundles and once I tried the stuff I couldn't find anything that gave the same results so just topped up the collection every time I ran low. Been using it for years now so would recommend giving them a go. Just looking through old pics for cleaning shots and I miss my poor smashed RX, can only hope I get it back to this condition :

" I find it quite therapeutic" Great post. It is therapeutic.

I did mine a couple of weekends back. Basically did my own 100,000 mile tuneup. Spark plugs, PCV valve, Lambda sensors, cleaned throttle body, cleaned intake manifold, replaced a few of the aux belt pulleys. I would say if you have the right tools, the spark plugs are really not that difficult to do at home as a DIY. Only cost me around 80 quid for the plugs from lexuspartsdirect. You will pay much more even for just the parts at dealer or garage prices. If it helps, I can post a list of the tools I used. I don't have a big tool collection myself - I tend to add new tools as I need them for each specific job.

Surprising outcome They agreed that reported 5-6mm on front pads wasn't right at the time of sale and agreed with Lexus Woodford recommendation of changing front disks, although they insist front disks are close to minimal thickness rather than below minimal thickness, but we talking 0.2mm here. Rear brakes, again they agreed that pads require replacement, however not disks - as they have some thickness left. Either way, the only reason they mentioned it is probably to make themselves look better I guess... because they have replaced all brake pads free of charge, front disks free of charge and rear disks as goodwill (free of charge), as well they done MOT free of charge. So in summary, they have replaced everything I asked for free of charge and added complimentary MOT on top. I don't have much else to complain about - in short I am very happy! Further, they will deliver the car to me from Reading to Romford today - which is 2 hours drive. They haven't even agreed to do it when I bought the car (in fact they didn't even pick me up from Reading train station!), so it was not expected for the service. Finally, I guess what can I say - they were at fault, but finally admitted it and have solved my issue to full satisfaction. It would have been better if they would have agreed with it straight away when I complained, rather than after 3 days of e-mail conversation and complaint to Lexus UK, but in the end of the day they solved it regardless. This means that Lexus can be trusted to put things right and my trust I authorised dealerships and Lexus policies is restored. Not sure what it was - Lexus UK or the box of sweets I gave them (maybe both), but they have showed minimal resistance once initial excuse failed.

As a RX owner, I absolutely love it. But may be the initial question is not correct, trying to compare 2 models , one of them being a sort of flagship and the other one (ES) not: the right dilemma should be between a RX and a LS, and the choice is matter of SUV or not. Actually it would be quite a dilemma to me too. At the end , I purchased a RX because I never had a SUV and wanted to try what does it mean, a better resale value, road conditions progressively worsening, and needing sometimes trunk space; nonetheless I remember my 1st Lexus GS450h and former GS300h, not with regrets but quite a wonderful cars.

Look in on this website and see what you can find out. https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?find-new/10925219/posts

I have owned a 2019 Sonic Titanium RX450h since December last year. It is classed as the RX + Premium Pack, but I believe very close to Luxury trim of the past model years. What impresses me most is the ride and interior quality, and the comparative silence to all other cars I've previously driven (despite being an SUV). I used to have an Jag XF with adaptive suspension, and in my opinion my Lexus without it is more comfortable than the Jag. I find it comfortable to drive on all road surfaces, particularly on the motorway - it eats up miles for breakfast, dinner and tea 🙂 I've not long returned from a 1000 mile trip up to central and western Scotland, and it was a joy to drive. The interior quality is fantastic in my opinion, very well put together with high spec materials. The seats are terrifically comfortable too with heated/cooled settings, etc. The only minor criticism I have is there is perhaps a little 'float' when driving at speed on fast, twisty A-roads (but then I just slow down a little 😉), but this may be mitigated somewhat by the adaptive suspension.

The RX refinement personally is on another league compared to the other vehicle in the Lexus lineup you mention Feels much more solidly built too. Like the E class to Merc, the RX has always been and probably always will be one of their best vehicles

I had a c70 t5 coupe with a manual box about twenty years ago. Mentalist fast...or at least it felt like it at the time (before that I had an 8v mk2 golf). I’ve never heard a car door make the same noise. Incredibly well built car. The early C70s we’re screwed together by TWR, so basically hand built. The Dynaudio stereos sounded better than the MLs in the F cars too. As for modern equivalents to the F, no offence but I wouldn’t have an AMG...too shouty. The engine blip on start up is obnoxious. Feels like a gold belt buckle. Or a fat man wearing sparco driving shoes. BMW m-cars are too brittle and too highly strung like a Bose hifi with the loudness set to max. I like CL500’s and 600’s - not shouty like the equivalent AMG but do suffer from the Gucci loafer wearing slicked back dyed hair fifty year old connotation. I quite like the older Alpina’s. I’d have a B5S from 2008/9 but they’re like hens teeth and I think it’s mandatory that you have to go to car shows with them and bore on about compression ratios. A 928 GTS feels like an itch I’d like to scratch. Or a Ferrari 456. But then I’d also quite like a Citroen C6, an early G-wagon or a Passat r36. So I think I probably just need to have some therapy.

I did look at XFR's before the ISF, i nearly got one last year but PX price was bad and by the time i got an extra 2k via private sale the car had gone! I took it as a bit of a sign and just held out until the right time for the ISF. I'd still love one at some point, crazy amount of car for the money! c63 estate is a cracking shout, another car i had on my short list and would like at some point!

Yeah - they treating Europe as secondary market which basically just gets scraps, UK being tertiary... Collectively we can probably blame ourselves - we buy too much SUVs and it no longer makes financial sense to introduce executive saloons here. Although I was under impression IS300h was selling rather well. That said, potential 300h buyer would be satisfied with ES300h - it is not like driving wheels makes much difference with that power output. They would not have introduced IS350 anyway and I think we can easily do without another IS300 (200t). From outside it looks very good, especially the front - I would argue Lexus has refined their "predator look" and whereas new BMW 4 is bold, but unrefined, Lexus whenever you like it or not is really recognisable from the grill. But interior leaves much to be desired, stuck on screen looks dated and lazy design, seems like there isn't much improvements in complicated infotainment control and the rest of the interior lacks any improvements over current gen. I would argue that FL mk3 IS actually looks better inside with integrated screen and (probably) has same tech.

I just bought my 2013 Rx450h and it came with the same rubbish tires, glad I've spotted this thread.

My go-to tyres of choice are either Bridgestone Dueller or Falken. Both have been excellent all year round tyres which I've used for the past 10 years.

update: so I got my mechanic to just push the pipe further and do a fresh clamp. Seems to be working since then.. lets see if it holds for long. thanks again for everyones help. glad i asked the question here.

Out of curiosity I have just looked up the prices for the original hoses from Lexus. I don’t know why but the top hose is around £75.00 and the lower £17.00, they look about the same size so why the huge variation in price between the two I don’t know. There is another set of flexible hoses further back too so maybe get your mechanic to also check these at the same time. As other members have suggested I would replace with petrol grade rubber hoses and some decent stainless steel jubilee clips, the last thing you want is total fluid loss!

When I replaced my transmission cooler hoses I used fuel hose, a very experienced local parts supplier told me it's absolutely fine for transmission fluid. I don't know about silicone hose either, I've not had experience with it. I do know cheap jubilee clips don't always work well. As mentioned, unless you've got a pin hole in the metal part I would have thought it's simple enough to rectify.

I hope these pictures help someone in future. I forgot to take pictures when jacked up from rear.