Leaderboard

Hello - I don't know if this is of any help to anyone but I have found a cheap fix to my noisy/vibrating fan on my 2011 CT200H SE-L The number on the original fan is stamped on the bottom of it 272600-0456 and as any body that has tried to get one of these will know - they are a mortgage payment to buy. Even second hand, if you can actually find one they are over £200. Now I got to thinking that Denso aren't daft so where possible they will want to make one part to fit multiple vehicles so after a bit of digging I decided to buy a fan from eBay for an is220 number 272600-0322. When it arrived there were subtle differences but I only wanted the motor part. I removed my fan, trim above the passengers feet off, 3 screws and a multi plug and the fan is out. The circuit board is under a plastic cover, 4 screws then a couple on the board itself and that lifts off ( bit of sealer on one end but no issue ). Then 3 screws for the motor. The plastic fan impellor is slightly bigger so needs swapping - just bend the little tag up and hammer the motor spindle out. and there you have it - an identical motor. rebuild is just the opposite if dismantle, nothing exciting. All done, back in and working is 30 mins - and the cost £22. Only tools were 8mm socket to get it out, screw driver, hammer and a bolt to use as a punch. Lots of motors are available at cheap prices. Wish I had done it months ago.

I did the IAM test about 20 years ago and then was an observer for a few years. I then did the ROSPA test which is like the IAM but you retake it every 3 years and are graded Bronze, Silver and Gold. My son passed his IAM test last year. It helps with anticipation and fits well with a hybrid driving style. Worth doing. In the mean time check out Roadcraft and the Reg Local YouTube videos. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I still double declutch in my NX. Every time I have to scrape my face off the windscreen though 😂

Buy yourself a copy of 'Roadcraft' a very good ready on advanced driving techniques. I was very fortunate in my career to have been the recipient of numerous driving courses starting with a 6 week long 'standard' course at the now defunct No6 Regional Police Driving School in Wiltshire. Once you have learnt to system drive it remains with you throughout your life. Advanced observation and road positioning is the key although double declutching is no longer required 😂😂

Maybe 'test drive' a similar hybrid to compare noises?

Yep, thanks for that John, I remember googling that too ... but the alternative (my 3rd para) view is still of interest as clearly not everybody is in agreement. 😉

From Google SD.... Why does my gas cap hiss when I take it off? The hiss is a normal phenomenon, ideally keep the tanks at more than 1/2 full to keep the fume formation and vapor loss at check. Hiss means your fuel tank vapor system is working properly and not releasing harmful fumes out.22 May 2016

I've been told it has to be ordered to Japan and it will take at least a month. Insurance will provide a hire car in the meantime. Thanks for the feedback, will get a catloc installed then. My neighbours RX was parked next to mine, he has a catloc (or something similar) and his wasn't stolen. He put it after he got the converten stolen twice in 6 months.

If you accidently press and hold the unlock button on the remote it drops all the windows and opens the moon roof but then relocks the door after so long because it's not been opened. It can be programmed not to do this. I have had it happen several times when my car has been parked for the night in my garage (luckily)

What a load of low down bums we are 😁

Thanks for that,sadly I have not got a “handbook” but only the far shorter RC F User Guide. I agree some oil needs removing.I don’t have an oil syphon but I do have a competent nearby garage who can do it.

After fuel system problems with another car I started using Shell V Power in my RX450H to try to help avoid injector problems. I'm not sure it will make any difference but at least I feel better about it. The car has just passed 100k miles so I will probably be stuck with it until it is scrapped now so want to defer that event as long as possible.

You may already have made up your mind but I thought I would mention that I have a 2010 RX450H which has now done 104k miles. The 100k service wasn't really a huge expense - as already stated but I did need rear pads which pushed the cost up a bit. Also just replaced all 4 tyres. I bought it as a used car from a Lexus dealer about 5 years ago. I had one non-service repair done under the used warranty when the heater fan became very noisy. Other than that no unexpected maintenance costs. it's been a delight and pleasure to own and drive. Average fuel economy around 32mpg over the 5 years. A long run not pushing it can get to 38/39. When the 50mph limit was in place on the M1 around Milton Keynes that did wonders for the economy.

Hi, Being brakes, would it not be prudent to take it to a Main dealer?

I quite enjoy the CarWow videos, but then I also very much enjoy Top Gear and would love to move to an electric car when the performance/range/price improve. So maybe I'm the target audience? I'll admit that I didn't notice him looking away from the road overmuch, but I also wasn't looking for it. I know I can't do that safely, but it's probably something that most video-based reviewers do. I actually think it's important consumer information to find out exactly how far these cars can go, especially when some of them can go a lot further than even the on-board computers believe is possible. Without this sort of independent research we'd be stuck trusting the official figures. I think it would actually be great if similar tests were done with ICE-based vehicles - it would discourage manufacturers from continuing to game the system and providing unrealistic fuel economy figures. Still, sounds like his stuff isn't your cup of tea, which is totally fine, and completely understandable. Nick

Indeed - and that is one hell of a limit. Tesla showrooms usually? sometimes? have a bare chassis on display. (There are plenty of images on the web) You've got the motors taking minimal space by the wheels, then the whole area of the chassis area with a wheel at each corner is a tray available to take a lot of batteries. How are you going to get anything like that number in an ICE car chassis? Quite apart from the weight distribution problem. All the (very considerable) weight in a Tesla is situated low down and distributed evenly. As Linas says, it's going to cost substantially more than the article implies and you're going to end up with a car which does 50mph with a range of 50 miles and handling like a pig. I picked up a MX-5 gearbox and differential plus some minor bits and pieces during the summer - they were all in the boot and my car (GS300h) suffered from substantial oversteer, even in a straight line on the motorway. It was OK for the necessary 200 miles but I wouldn't like to drive it like that every day even if the weight distribution might be a bit better than a very heavy load just in the boot EV s need to be designed from scratch - even if the car looks conventional (eg Seat Mii, Vauxhall Corsa EVs) they are very different under the skin. Actually - wonder how long it will be before we see the coachbuilders' art return - the Tesla chassis at least looks ideal as a starting point.

LOL, not for me. The car I saw didn't look like an after market, the quad pipes and the diffuser looked very much factory standard, hence my intrigue.

^^ In about 2013 my employer paid for a group of us to complete a two day course run by two former police drivers. I can honestly say my driving changed forever after that course, which included classroom sessions, sessions where the instructors drove, and sessions where we drove and were assessed. Driving for 30 minutes on public roads while having to ‘commentate’ on everything I saw and why I did things was fascinating, but by the third time it became almost second nature. Something as obvious as really looking ahead was actually difficult at first. We all develop bad habits I guess. Based on my experience I’d fully recommend some type of advanced course for everybody on a ten year cycle.

It is madness Linas, absolute madness. I used the "confused" smiley as there isn't a "I just can't believe it" smiley!

https://openinverter.org/forum/ Plenty of information here. Toyota hybrids are a hot topic. These cars are prime material for conversion due to just about everything being made with EV operation in mind - you'd need an auxiliary heater, but that's about it. If you remove the PSD and lock MG1 to the output shaft's speed... things can get crazy. The limiting factor (for power & range) is what batteries you can put in it.

He`s not lucky Davey if he is with a good,solid,sound and honorable Insurance Company. He is extremely fortunate. I have taken the opportunity to read through all of these postings and notwithstanding all that has been said I am of the view that Barry will have to disclose the fact that he has been involved in a Road Traffic Incident, at the time of his insurance renewal. He may already have done so "for information purposes." Certainly it is undeniable that he was not to blame in any way, shape or form and it is quite likely that once all of the facts are assimilated, he will not lose his "No claims Bonus". Nor should he ,in my view. What he and his Broker may be unable to avoid is the effect that his involvement may have on his Insurance Premium(s) going forward i.e. prior to the application of his No Claims Bonus. Therefore it is of paramount importance that any claim he submits following this incident with the Audi includes an appropriate sum for the possible increase in his Insurance Premiums for the 5 years going forward. His Broker may be able to assist with the calculation.

Are you confused @Mincey? I was confused as well when I came to London like 12 years ago... you see I came from republic with "two tier system", where everyone are equal by the law, but some are "more equal". That is - if you rich you still going to get arrested, but the sentence will be more lenient then in case you just normal person or poor (in which case you will feel full brunt of the law). It is somewhat similar in UK - look at Mr. Sir. Lord. King. Philip Green, he goes around pillaging pension funds, gutting companies, leaving tens of thousands unemployed, paying himself £1.5bn in dividends, living in £200mln mega-yacht in Monaco and facing no consequences ever. Although, I despise such "two tier system" I was used to it. However, what confused me the most - in UK it seems you have "four tier system", you could be normal working person in which case you have to follow the law, have insurance etc,, or you could be violent criminal in which case you will be arrested and put in jail, or you could be rich in which case you going to avoid jail, but as well there is forth group with acronym S.C.U.M. - that is poor antisocial group which isn't violent, but equally law does not really apply to them. This is the same group which could drive around with 68 points on the license, without MOT or Insurance and somehow there is nobody to stop them! It is really confusing for me why this is allowed to happen... I don't have answer either - just seems like government is only interested in applying the law if there is money to be recovered.

There used to be a racing driver many years ago called Brendan MacInerney. I used to think he was 3 people...

Hi one of these might fit.....😐 https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/?s=cargo+net&post_type=product

I have recently bought a 2008 RX400 with a low mileage. I have faith in the reliability of these cars as the above posts confirm. Look at the worst case scenario and your options to change. £1,000 to keep a good car going is far cheaper than buying a replacement. Wear and tear items will be linked to mileage and age. With a Lexus you would be very unlucky to have lots of things go wrong one after another. You know your car, check for corrosion and treat if necessary. We all come to a point when we say, enough is enough, I need to change this vehicle. When that time comes is dependent on the individual. The longer you keep your car the more value you will get out of it. You can't really compare older Lexus cars with other makes, as they are far more reliable. I would not even consider buying a BMW, Mercedes or Audi of this age. Spend the £1,000 and I would be very surprised if will not last another 30 months. You have already spent money on the larger wear and tear items - dics / pads / timing belt. You will have to spend a great deal more to replace your present car. Keep us all informed about what you decide but I would be keeping it and putting that tow bar on. Good luck!

I thought they were three other people I know, but with hindsight John I think you're right.

I took my advanced test in 2003 after thinking about it for a long time. So glad I did, it makes you "think" about driving in a different light. It also makes you appreciate how generally poor the overall standard of driving is. I went out with a local observer a few times before my test which was a great help. All I paid for was the test but things might be different now.thing Go for it, you wont regret it (but your wife might 😁) Les

I'm hopefully going to test drive one at the end of the week, not sure if my local dealer has both takumi and f sport available but I'll at least get an idea of things.

Piccies please David.

Interesting article today in the Sunday Telegraph about a jounalist impulse-buying a £15k TVR during Spring lockdown, much against his colleagues’ and friends’ advice. This would have been my comment in response: sorry about the mismatched font sizes... The 2001 TVR £15k? How about a 2003 80k miles £6k Lexus SC430? A quiet, renowned, V8, 32valves vvt-i, with 282bhp and Torque of 282. Rear-wheel-drive, imperceptible slush-box or sequential changes, with wishbones all-round. 0-60 in 6.2secs + 155mph. 24mpg. Coupe OR metal unfolding Convertible. Superb Audio and voice/music Bluetooth. Creamy heated/cooled leather armchairs for two, plus two (for young children) or soft luggage. THE unique Continental tourer. That quietly leaves others standing in its rear view mirror. After driving 60 years, when safe, faultless, fun and comfort are now uppermost, THE best ever.

It's now on my drive. Forgot how intoxicating the rumble if the V8 is. Drove it 100 odd miles on Friday morning back to Leicestershire. Was it an essential journey, hell yes😁 . Issues well the same as the past two Lexus, the radiator expansion tank is leaking where top and bottom halves are joined together. Spent ages trying to find one previously, as refuse to pay £300 + for new one. However despite this, cars never ran hot. Power aerial and drivers side folding wing mirror not working and sat nav disc needs updating as it's showing me living in a field.

Problem solved. I connected the laptop with the techstream software and found code P0A0D in the hybrid ECU, googled and found the code relates to a safety device being operated. When I found one of those devices was the emergency battery pack disconnect in the 'boot' well I went out to take a look and found that it was not locked, it only moved about 3-4 mm but obviously that was enough for the pins on the interlock not to make. Connected the laptop and cleared the code, hey presto all OK. What I think I did was catch the switch with the tray that sits in the boot,I had to lift it up to get my hand down into the well to pick up the screwed bar for the battery strap and the back lip of the tray must have just caught it. Cheers Kev

🙃

I think the logic behind the Normal mode being better for economy goes like this. Eco mode's throttle response is so unresponsive that, after realising they're not getting what they were expecting from the drivetrain, people don't put just press a little harder or wait a little longer, they push down hard, and end up accelerating quite aggressively, dropping out of electric mode and revving the engine up more frequently. In Normal mode, the drivetrain responds more generously, so people don't react in this way. If you've got a light foot and use the efficiency meters in the dashboard to stay in EV mode as much as possible I suspect it doesn't make too much of a difference which of those two modes you're in. Eco also turns down the A/C, but it would be hard to tell just how much of a difference this actually makes in isolation. It makes sense that the CT200h would get better economy - although it's an older hybrid system, it's a lighter car with a smaller frontal area. It's also a significantly less powerful engine - I believe it's around 130bhp vs the UX250h's ~180bhp. Conversely, I should be disappointed that the RX is only managing 36mpg, but that's a big, heavy SUV with a relatively powerful engine. My partner had a Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV for a little while as a company car. When plugged in and driven around town that thing got almost 200mpg. Take it out on the motorway and rely on the 2-litre petrol engine and it turns out that a 2+ tonne rolling brick struggles to best 30mpg. Quelle surprise. Nick

The negative terminal (of the battery) is the earth and is connected to the entire car body, so the negative terminal of any jump leads or jump start pack can be either connected directly to the negative battery post* or any bare metal, screw, nut or bolt, either at the front or the back of the car. *The usual advice to connect the negative jump lead to some random bare metal away from the battery itself is to avoid any sparks igniting the hydrogen gas given off from the battery and has nothing whatsoever to do with the electrical operation of jump starting. Having said that, I have never seen, nor ever heard of, and don't know of anyone who ever has seen or heard of any explosion ocurring in more than 40 years of motoring and spannering. I'm not saying it can't happen, just that it seems to be a very unlikely event.

To quote from a post I made just a couple of days ago in a different thread that seems to apply partially to your case: I speak not as a Lexus technician or design engineer, nor in any official capacity whatsoever, but rather as a fully qualified, time-served electrician who, since completing my apprenticeship in 1978, has worked mostly in the maintenance and installation fields of both domestic and industrial electrics; spent most of my working career as a telephone engineer (cable jointer) on BT; and latterly self-employed doing computer repairs and bespoke builds, and whose hobbies include amateur radio (callsign G7IFM). In other words, most of my life has been spent dealing with electrical and electronics systems. I mean no disrespect to anyone but I really do think that a lot of people get hung up on this and overthink it to the nth degree, whereas it's really very simple. 12 Volts DC is 12 Volts DC in the UK, the USA, India, China and so on. 12 Volts DC is 12 Volts DC both at the back of the car (if the battery is in the boot) and also at the front of the car if you want to utilise the dedicated jump start post. 12 Volts DC is 12 Volts DC whether it comes from the car battery or a battery charger, or a trickle charger, or the car's own alternator or DC/DC converter. Jump leads or jump start battery packs can be used at the front or the back of the car because all you are doing is supplementing one dodgy 12 Volt source by piggybacking a good 12 Volt source onto it. Trickle chargers can be connected to the battery whilst it is still connected to the car. The clue is in the name, ie, trickle charger. It only supplies enough current to overcome the quiescent current draw of things like the clock, the radio presets, the alarm etc., and also the self-discharge rate of the battery. Add all that up and it comes to far less than the battery itself can supply so, in and of itself, a trickle charger cannot do any harm unless - and this is very important - it goes faulty in some way. I would imagine that most, if not all trickle chargers, will have some sort of fail-safe mechanism to avoid any damage either to itself or to the car, but if something goes wrong I can take no responsibility - you do this at your own risk. ***************************************** And just to add a further point, I do indeed have a very similar unit to the one John linked to above and they work brilliantly. I've not had to use it on my own car yet but I have started three or four 'conventional' cars for other people and it has always worked first time. I don't like getting cold and wet (Sod's Law usually dictates that it has to be bad weather when a battery fails ) so I decided to install a 'comfort' jump start point in the cabin of my RX450h:

Quite excited - a first for her anyway! Especially because its electric, shes never driven one before. I have so I know she'll love it This is the one....... Bit out there, I know, but she wanted something different. I suppose thats one of the reasons we drive Lexus isn't it? Wouldnt be surprised if its the only UX300e in the country in this spec.

Another good repairer is 'reinventing the wheel in Tewkesbury'. They do wheels for Lexus Cheltenham.

A very interesting read, thanks Nick

Not as yet no,but I’ll keep an ear out.took it for a good spin straight after and didn’t notice any noise. the one I’ve had is a plate and the fitter did mention the others that use a chain or cables to secure them being not very good.

Gone for it and had a catloc fitted at Lincoln Lexus,all done in under a hour 👍

Welcome to Europe's Leading Lexus Club! Please Enjoy!

Thank you for the instructions. I dismantled the motor, put lot of grease in the axial, then …no more noise! No parts needed.