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Recently decontaminated, clay bar, buffed and waxed the paintwork. it came up pretty well I think.

Can't see in the pic but the piece of wood has Lexus written on it 😉 but I do have the struts, the Mrs has kindly misplaced them for me! Good spot, I will have a look in my box of bits to see if I have the moulding. Gonna have to have a clear out of parts at some point I've accumulated so much in such a short space of time! Also realised the battery is a Lion, so that'll be used as intended, a very large door stop... 😂

Hello, So I've picked up another IS250 last year. I had one previously and I missed it, so here it is. Manual, black leather, sat nav with Mark Levinson audio system, air conditioned seats and the rest that's pretty normal for these cars. Bought it completely stock. Soon after I've done an oil change, I replaced a dirty air filter and put an HKS Super air filter in it and changed the oil cap for a Mishimoto aluminium one. I've replaced a dirty & damaged gear knob gaiter and disgustingly used gear knob that just pained me every time I drove it. Then the exciting stuff happened.. a set of RAYS Gramlights 57CR 18x9.5 ET38 paired with very average TOYO Proxes TR1 225/40R18.. I've used the older compound (T1-R) tyres and they were fine. Definitely a very noticeable upgrade over the previous 245/45R17 Continentals that someone put on it. 245s are just way too wide for the amount of power this car has in my opinion. It feels a lot more nimble now on the narrower tyres, but also much more grippy due to the Toyo's being just better in every way. The AVG mpg's have also changed after changing an air filter & wheels. I used to average 21mpg on my way to and from work (14mile one way mixed commute - dual carriageways, town and country roads). Now it's around 26mpg and strictly motorway driving - cruise control at 70mph went from 36mpg to 43mpg. Safe to say I'm very happy with it so far. Currently I need to get rear discs & pads all round as these are sh*t and very bad on dusting. Plans for the future are: TEIN Flex Z Fully adjustable coilovers to improve the handling. HARDRACE front LCA steering response bushes - that should stiffen up the steering wheel a little bit as it's way too sensitive for me at the moment. GT86/BRZ OEM differential & 4.1 final drive - will reduced the top speed, but will increase the acceleration which is something very noticeable, especially on A/T cars as they have 3.7 FD and M/T have 3.9 FD, but my Manual will benefit from it too. HKS HI-Power exhaust (currently on back order - should arrive in April) - unleash the V6 noises! Sound clip from someone in the USA here Rear diffuser Vland tail lights + lots more but I won't list everything..

Where the passenger side windscreen wiper finishes on its upward sweep i have a line on the windscreen. The line is as long as the wiper blade. I have had this issue on other cars as well. I'm obviously doing something wrong on my windscreen cleaning. I'm looking for help here from some of you expert windscreen cleaners. My usual routine after a wash is go over windscreen again with the likes of autoglymn fast glass or if i haven't any left something like Mr muscle or cif window cleaner. After that i might leave it or i may go over it with some autoglymn glass polish. Then if the screen gets dirty before next wash i may quickly use fast glass again or Mr muscle etc. I use a paper towel and i always clean the blade. Am i over doing it. The line where the wiper pushes it is difficult to remove. Thanks.

Hi all, I'm going to order up a new alternator, as it's on it's way to alternator heaven, and possibly a new radiator to change preventatively. Does anyone have the correct part numbers for these as I want to give Rockauto a try and clearly I want to get the correct ones! I have already learned the radiator was different in the US and Japanese markets (thanks to The-Acre). If they don't have the correct one I'll try amayama. BTW, it's a late 55 plate facelift. Thanks in advance David

Hi fellow LS400 lovers, i still can’t believe that I am now the owner of this. After gliding around in it for a week, my decision to buy is now firmly cemented in my mind as probably one of the best decisions I ever made. I’ve never before owned a Lexus, but when I saw this I was reminded that this model had been my wedding car. Twenty seven years later, my blushing bride and I are still together and still very much in love. We even still have wedding photos of us posing in blissful rapture alongside the Lexus LS400 which was loaned to us by the company my wife worked for. it’s a joy to drive and at a tad under 80,000 miles, still a relative baby. She needs a good valet and those wheels need a refurb, but don’t ladies of a certain age need a trip to the beauty salon every now and again? 😉 I’m conflicted about the reg, though. On the one hand, it sits well on the car and the windows are etched accordingly, but it means nothing to me and we have our own cherished plate. I’ve thought about this for a while and I’m erring on paying the £80 quid retention and banging my own plate on it. At least if have to sell it, I can do so with the original plate on. Anyway, I want to thank you all for your knowledge and advice. I’ve been “lurking” on the forums for a while and I’ve already picked up some valuable information. SGS Engineering for instance will definitely be on my call list because the gas struts don’t seem to be holding the bonnet up - I wondered why there was a 4 foot length of wood in the boot but after trying to check the levels, I think I know! 🤭 Regards, Sam.

Good choice please post some pictures

Have you done research on the trans fluid? General consensus is to only use Toyota oil. Forget the spec but there again utube videos use a different oil but the same spec as Toyota. Bummer the clutch has gone but that's a ruddy good price for that kit 👍

My 2018 nx f-sport does not have memory seats but mirrors do dip when reverse selected. Think mirror auto switch has to be in centre position.

I’ve had a few cars that do it...but neither my 2017 NX Sport nor my current NX Luxury have this function. It’s a bit of an odd omission tbh, along with the mirror dip in reverse only being available on cars with memory seats. Neither of my Honda CR-Vs even had powered seats, but both did the wiper when reversing and the mirror dipping.

Read here.. Maintainace of hybrid battery.pdf

2020NX, doesn’t do it

Ok i found out the source of my problem. The relay indicated in the service manual for my LexusRX400h was not for HORN. Anyway i found out using the repair manual for Lexus RX400h, what is the circuit diagram for my car, and step by step i discovered the problem. It was a circuit board situated near the fuse box - that contains a lot of electronic circuits and relays (one of them is for HORN ). I just swap it with another board and all was solved. I attach pictures with that circuit board Hope that my problem will help others to solve their problems also. Cheers Hi there. Have you discovered if the relay is used by another device ? If yes, would you be so kind and share with us ? I am curious because my RX400h have a problem with horn, but kinda opposite situation compared to your situation. I mean my horn ring continuously and i was forced to take of the fuse from the panel. I checked the relay and it seems to be in order. But as you already said, the fact that it could be in use by another device makes me think if if not that devices fault for this situation. Cheers

try a cut potato surface ! ............ that might help, maybe it's the starch in it Malc

Ah, didn't realise it was OEM. Carry on.

It happens whenever there isn't enough power (by whatever method) to hold the 'memory'.

Ahhhh that's a shame. Thanks for the heads up.

I recently needed to buy a new clutch and flywheel for my 2005 IS250 and was shocked to find out it was damn near impossible to get the oem parts for under £1,000. After much research I decided to go with a solid mass flywheel kit from EXEDY. Unfortunately these are manufactured in Australia and the only UK seller I could find was techniclutch on eBay. I decided to go ahead with it as I didn't really have much other choice, and it was £200 cheaper than buying from Australia. After 9 days with no update on the order even having been dispatched I decided to google the company (which was something I really should have done to begin with). I found forum after forum complaining that the company had scammed them in various different ways. After discovering this I immediately opened a dispute with eBay that the item had not arrived and specifically stated that if the order had not been dispatched yet I'd like to cancel it. This dispute gave the seller 10 days to respond before eBay would get involved. Naturally they only responded the day before the deadline telling me it would be with me the next day, ignoring the fact I had asked them to cancel it. 5 days later a parcel finally arrived. I had low expectations but I still had a glimmer of hope that they might have sent the correct part. This was not the case. In the box was a clutch with the code DT-170 on it. Surprisingly this is the correct clutch for the car but did not include half of what I ordered. This part costs roughly £60 on its own, I ordered the kit for £1,100. I immediately opened a return request on eBay as the item was not as described, giving the seller 7 days to send me a postage label before eBay close the dispute in my favour and what do you know, they once again waited for the last day before sending me the return label. I posted the same day and finally got my money back another 7 days later. All in all I was out of £1,100 pounds for over a month while my cars clutch slipped more and more each day as I was unable to shell out another grand to get it fixed before I got my money back. Finally once I got my money back I was able to buy the parts elsewhere which ended up being far cheaper too. Long story short, google eBay sellers before buying from them and never ever waste your time on techniclutch.

The picture i posted there it was made by me. I took my spare headlight and took a picture to show exact location of those screws. The headlight is also with auto-leveling, so it must be almost identical with what you have. Cheers

Mains powered with a dubious looking full wave bridge rectifier ( assumed there are 4 diodes under the brown capacitors). I guessing Chinese in origin? Find a bin and then take a look at the one below which is dimmable. https://www.argos.co.uk/product/8361648?istCompanyId=a74d8886-5df9-4baa-b776-166b3bf9111c&istFeedId=30f62ea9-9626-4cac-97c8-9ff3921f8558&istItemId=ixilqqqwr&istBid=t&&cmpid=GS001&_$ja=tsid:59157|acid:898-274-0554|cid:9563031066|agid:97151857126|tid:pla-889361701882|crid:423211492683|nw:g|rnd:17458735389744960748|dvc:t|adp:|mt:|loc:9046377&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=9563031066&utm_term=8361648&utm_content=shopping&utm_custom1=97151857126&utm_custom2=898-274-0554&gclid=CjwKCAiAt9z-BRBCEiwA_bWv-FP8ihEd6Gg9jYalQvb0vaQYWK3j4RMTrmLBQToJfDgXQH7h1qFdWRoCFqoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks Jeff. That's fantastic, they will come in very useful. Great team-work on this forum👍

Last week I noticed an overheating front disc and put it in, today, with Lexus Hedge End. To cut a long story short, apparently the caliper was seized. I had to have a new caliper fitted but the disc had also warped necessitating replacement of both front discs (no point in just doing the warped one) and new pads fitted. Lexus Hedge End were very good and I highly recommend them. However, they told me they had never seen this problem before and were going to send the defective caliper on to Lexus for their assessment. By the way, the car is an is300h f sport (65 plate) with 45000 miles on the clock. The reason I am posting this is to see if any others have had this problem before or am I just unlucky. Thanks for a response.

Thanks for all the replies, really insightful! Happy to hear NX seems to be the right choice and it narrows down the model. I've read about the F-Sport being less comfortable which is a shame as I do like the grill. Based on my price preference. I'm probably looking for a 15-16 low milage rather than a facelifted version as it seems better value for money. On the lexus site they seem to be just under £20k for a car that has done 50k milesish (with variations for trim level). Although android auto is very nice, i normally just use my phone (in auto mode ofc) with the aux plugged in. Do I dare to go autotrader and take one for 80-90k and pay £2-3k or is it not worth it? I wold hire AA or something similar to do a test drive and inspection for me. There is one currently listed similar to what you have paulrnx, which I'm hoping to test drive

To put it bluntly Nigel, you are complaining over nothing. Simply plug the phone in as you get in the car, before you move off, and there is no safety issue whatsoever. Wireless charging can be problematic and inefficient so at least plugging in your phone will also make sure it's charging as you drive. No, I'm afraid you have a non-problem here my friend.

Sure car is on its way up from Bolton to the lakes tomorrow to live on my drive as the mot runs out shortly. I will put some pics on in the next day, thanks. I don’t want it in my drive for long .

POST UPDATE The letter cost £2.99 in fuel! So it cost an extra £2.23! Worth every penny just to get out of the house!

i like the feeling of the interior being around you for me it makes you feel like your part of the car and not just sitting in there like a spare part.

Wow. Any more updates to your car?

Here's my experience Yes it does work! I believe you need to make sure it's enabled. Look at the menu screen where you can turn the various driver assist features on and off - towards the end of the list (on the second page on mine) there is an option DRCC (RSA) or similar When radar cruise control is engaged, if the set speed is different from the perceived speed limit (see next point) there is a green box shown around the speed limit icon along with an up or down arrow. Pressing and holding the speed up or speed down button ("long press" mentioned by e-yes) will change the set speed to that new value My experience is that the speed limit recognition isn't that accurate. I think it starts by considering values from the nav database - which may be out of date to begin with - but then this is overridden if the camera sees a different sign. However there a few places around where I live that it gives a totally inaccurate value. Examples include Consistently reporting 10 mph in the centre of a village (standard urban speed limit of 30 mph applicable) On approach to another village, where the speed limit is 60 mph (national limit for a rural road) there is a sign about 200 yards before the change to 30 mph warning of the pending change. It has a black circle around the "30" rather than a red one signifying a statutory change. This is consistently picked up as a change to 30 mph during the daytime, at night it is not picked up. In a nearby city where there is a tram, speed limits for the trams are posted in kph using a diamond sign. On a shared urban road guess what the ES reports the speed limit as? - yep 50 mph!! From what I remember the automatic speed up/down isn't a particularly rapid adjustment On the topic of the ± 5 mph adjustments yes it seems an oddity. If you press and hold the "cruise on/off" switch (top right of the buttons on the right of the steering wheel) you get "traditional" speed-based cruise control which can then be adjusted in 1 mph values! Hope this helps.

Beautiful car but the money burned a hole in my pocket and I went for a 2017, 14k miles, Mesa Red is 300h Premier. I'm not one bit disappointed though!

I bit the bullet and replaced the timing belt, water pump, tensioner and idler pulley a few weeks ago. I did get a quote from Lexus to replace the timing belt and water pump, £660 plus another £160 quid for the tensioner and pulley. So I purchased the water pump, tensioner, idler pulley and arb bushes (while I was at it) from Amayama. Timing belt and a complete service kit from LPD. I forgot to order the thermostat and gasket but I have now ordered it and will fit it when it arrives. Timing belt had been replaced but it needed doing because it was well over 6 years iirc. I did enlist some help from a mechanic round the corner from where I live, I wanted to do the whole thing myself but chickened out a bit😄 This is my experience of doing it after reading as much I could on the internet and watching YouTube videos. I've probably forgot a few steps so please don't use it as a definitive guide. Started as soon as got light on a Saturday (I was off work all the week after just in case I screwed up big style), put the car on my new Rhino Ramps, removed the undertray, air intake etc, spark plugs, drained the coolant, removed the radiator, removed the v belts, upper timing belt cover, power steering pump (bottom bolt on the bracket took a bit of removing as the coolant had leaked to this area and rusted it) and a few other bits like water pump pulley ready to remove the crank pulley and lower timing cover. Set the crankshaft pulley to the timing mark. I couldn't get in with my impact gun to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and I didn't want to use the 'breaker bar wedged on the ground and turn the engine' method so I was a bit stuck. I should have thought about this before hand. This was the point where I went to see the friendly mechanic round the corner, explained the situation and he came to have a look and brought with him a lump hammer and a 'Powerbar crankshaft bolt removal tool'. I did wonder how the 'Powerbar crankshaft bolt removal tool' was going to help/work, if you don't know about these (as I didn't) it's worth looking on the internet. He took one look and said that removing the crankshaft pulley bolt will be a piece of cake. 2 mins later the bolt was off and the pulley removed with a bit of tapping and levering. Yipee, that saved my bacon and after a suitable payment I asked him if he wouldn't mind checking the timing etc and if I've done everything correct once I'd finished, he said 'no problem, by the way the water pump is leaking'. I didn't know it needed replacing until I took the upper timing cover off but I had bought a new one to fit anyway. So on with the job, removed lower timing belt cover, marked up the crank and camshaft as per instructions and removed timing belt, tensioner and idler pulley and water pump. Cleaned the water pump area, fitted new water pump and gasket, pulley, power steering pump and idler pulley. Now it was time to install the timing belt, I started doing it but chickened out because I wasn't sure about the correct way to fit it and then install the tensioner so it was all lined/timed up and tensioned correctly. Back to my friendly mechanic..............I explained the timing belt was ready to fit and he said 'did you chicken out?' and I said 'oh yes!' 😁 He locked up the garage/unit and we walked round the corner to my house and after a bit of messing about and a coffee, watching a youtube video and reading the 'manual' we got the timing belt on and pulled the pin on the tensioner, then rotated the engine a few times to make sure the timing was all correct. When a YouTube video or instructions say 'fit new timing belt, tensioner and remove the pin', it's not quite that easy (I'm reasonably sure I could do it next time now though) All looked well so I continued to re assemble everything (and fit new spark plugs), by this time it was around 2pm iirc and I had intended to get as much done as I could and then carry on the next day. But at around 4pm I'd got to the point of re filling the coolant so just carried on and finished it but didn't re fit the undertray as I needed to do an oil and filter change the nest day. Now for the big test of starting the engine and finding out if we had done everything correct, put the key in and turned.........................it fired up and ran fine. Off the ramps and took it for a run with the heater on full heat to get the coolant running round and system bled. That was a big relief, gave myself a pat on the back and bought the mechanic a bottle of nice whisky a few days later to thank him again. I had to top up the coolant a couple of times after but once it settled down the level stayed on max when checking in the morning when cold.

If you bought from a Lexus dealer, they may be willing to assist you. May!

Update on the car. All the rear arches and lips have now been treated with Hydrate 80 a couple of times, left to dry and then painted with Por-15 paint. It's all ready for the next dry weekend to be sprayed with Dynax UB/UC and then Dynax S50 sprayed into the sills. As a follow on from this I thought I'd share what I think about the 'rusty sill' issue that seems to affect a fair number of IS200's and I assume IS300's as well. Maybe everyone knows all about this issue/what to look for and I'm telling you how to suck eggs but what the heck. Before I purchased this IS200 I did a lot of research into the rear arch/sill rust issue. I have an LS400 which suffered with a similar issue and this prompted me to look into it. I searched forums, including this one, the web and anything else I could think of to gather as much information on the symptoms, what causes it and what the implications are if this issue exists. I watched a few YouTube videos on fixing the issue (links below if you are interested), one not so bad and another that was pretty pretty bad. I couldn't really find much info on what causes it but I have my own idea/s after watching the videos. After all that I decided I wouldn't consider an IS200 with any signs of bubbling in the problem area. I was assured that this car had no signs of bubbling and when I got to the car I checked myself, as documented above. Symptoms: Water gets into the sill and rusts from the inside out apparently so once there is bubbling showing on the outside surface it's already eating through the sill. Example pics I found. The first shows the bubbling and the second is an example of how bad it can get in the rear arches (similar to my LS400 but not as bad) The big question is, how does the water get into the sill in the first place? From my experience on the LS400, I think the bottom of the inner arches and up the sides of the rear inner wing get packed with dirt and mud etc (the plastic covers and shape of the metal contribute to holding it in place). If these areas are not cleaned out regularly, rust appears, eventually rots through into the sill area and water gets into the sill area. Picture 2 above illustrates this. Unless you know about this, which owners of the new cars wouldn't, you wouldn't pay attention to cleaning those areas and keeping them clean so over the years things get rusted. This is what I think based on what I've read and found but please correct me if I'm wrong and there is another cause, maybe the sill itself can rot on the inner side from outside as well resulting in the same effect. Links to repair/rescue videos: There are a few parts

best to speak (email) to them direct, as listings on their website are very limited... they have the full stock available and I've found them to be helpful. Sometimes good value, sometimes not, but typically my first place to check to set the baseline price.

Thanks, yes, great idea. However the only radiator they have listed is the 'Bleed valve variant' which implies there are other variants! Plus they don't have an alternator listed for the SC?

Update: I've been a bit slacking on here, so anyway. I've installed the new exhaust (HKS Hi-Power) a couple months ago and I've also put coilovers (TEIN FLEX Z) on the car a few weeks ago. Exhaust was a very very easy to install. Nothing special, just pop the hangers off, undo a few bolts, job done. Now coilovers. There were all pretty easy to do it, just a matter of WD40 and undoing bolts here and there. However, the rear left bolts that goes through the shock & lca was rusted in so bad I couldn't remove it. I ended up cutting it and putting a new bolt in. FIY, the bolt is M14 and around 80mm long.. I couldn't believe how difficult it was to find it. I ended up buying it online for £7 as B&Q, Screwfix and Toolstation had only M12 or M16 as alternatives... I needed my car, so I just put an M12 through it that I got from B&Q as I didn't have any other option, but it's all good now. The car is now sitting about 60mm front and 50mm rear lower than stock. The ride is actually more comfortably than on stock shocks, although the stock suspension was 135k miles old and tired. Here's a pic of the clearance on the front on full lock with 18x9.5 ET38 wheels. It looks fine, but it does rub on full lock when there are two people in the car. Only an issue when parking, and not a big deal at all. It just catches the arch liner, so no damage. Here's a few pics of how the car sits now. Also had to test the diff. The stock suspension had so much travel the diff just wouldn't lock, whereas now the rear end is a lot stiffer, the little Torsen LSD engages a lot better 🙂 Apologies for the poor choice of location, but it was convenient and nobody was around as this McDonald's is still closed now due to lockdown.

Problem is the slide pins on said calipers, they do need regular ( ideally every 6 months) maintainance to keep them free moving but alas this is not a detailed item in any service schedule so it is a case of 'When and Not if' unless you state specifically to have it done at service time or do it yourself.