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if its any consolation I suffered the same issues this week with my battery, it threw up a whole load of error messages and didn't reply want to ply ball after that. Spoke to my Lexus dealer and they charged me £136 for a genuine battery, it was in within 2 days and I fitted it in less than 20 minutes. I didn't lose any settings within the car and the battery was disconnected for about 10 mins.

Well the NX is fundamentally a FWD car, which isn't really an issue just a thing to consider. First of all, it would be good to clarify what you mean by "mountain roads" e.g. it is like French Alps where you basically have good asphalt and it just get covered with slush snow and may freeze over overnight (although they usually clean them rather well) or is it proper wild mountain road. If it is first, then I am sure NX is fine. The questions is only the tyres then, preferably you have winter tyres or at least all-season and snow-chains depending on what is required in your country. If it is second, then - no. Sorry NX is not off-roader and AWD system is not for off-road, it is only good for slippery but "good road". If you loose grip on one of wheel going on the asphalt covered with slush it could more than handle it. But if you planning for extended climb on dirty track then it is not car for you. And finally, yes as somebody mentioned it is not like your battery is going to go flat and car turns FWD. However, it is not "full-time" AWD system which you can climb mountain with like on say Subaru, it only engages at the time when slip is detected to correct the course a little bit.

Check that your tyres aren't directional.

This is my battery label.

Hope you enjoy the 4wd ,i have parked up gsf while I have to ask wifey very politely for her rx 450fsport or ct car keys grudgingly she only has provided keys to ct!!!!.oh well I’m enjoying life in slow lane at least i have had to fill tank up for 6days!!!yipee😂😂😂

I looked at various alternatives last year, but in the end I bought one from Lexus Parts Direct, who offered the best price, and of course it fitted perfectly.

Hi I currently own a 2015 NX300h Luxury which I bought via a PCP almost three years and is now it is decision time so I have a few questions. The first option is just to hand over the car and walk away. I dont fancy this as I like Lexus (the current one is my 3rd) and am minded to continue with them The second is to finance the existing car either via a loan or a further PCP. Any thoughts in this? The car has only doen 33k miles so there should be plenty of life in it yet but what are your experiences of the NX and service costs once it passes 5 years old? The third option is to trade in against a newer NX and I have a few questions on this process. At the time of purchase there was an indication that the PX value could exceed to balloon payment. What are your experiences of this or was it sales talk? My local Lexus dealers has several NX in stock. They describe one as NX300h plus premium pack and leather, another a NX300h F Sport and yet another as NX300 F-Sport plus premium pack and leather. I thought they all had leather? Even the least expensive version in the photos had flaps for changing gear (a little toy I suspect which you give up on quite quickly) I have always found my NX Luxury very comfortable and when I have replaced the tyres they are a decent price (£115/tyre). What are your experiences of the F Sport model from a ride perspective and the cost of tyres? Can anyone advise of the engine and drivetrain in 2019-2020 models is any different to that in the 2015 model? Any difference in the petrol consumption (I get about 37-38mpg)? Are there any other upgrades that came in the facelift model? Is there a way to establish the original list price of a second hand car so I can assess if the higher rates of tax will be payable? Finally the wider satnav screen seems to hard to read according to other posts so the use of a head-up display seems to be preferred. What models have this facility? Sorry for so many questions! Thanks for your assistance

Hello all, finally decided to join the forum after lurking for a little bit and using a few posts from here and ClubLexus to problem solve :) I'm currently enjoying my 1993 GS 300 and have owned a pre-facelift LS 430 in black, which I do miss dearly, but my good friend currently owns it so fortunately it's in good hands! My current GS 300 in Bordaux Red: Not much has happened to this car thus far other than the wheels. I absolutely love the colour (although the LS430's wine Red is arguably the best haha) and it's very rarely that I see another 1st generation GS 300 on the road, but I really love the soft lines of this generation GS and and the rear lights have always looked really cool to me as well. The car has been reliable as expected really, only needed two lower ball joints for the last MOT and it did excellently driving from Southampton to Edinburgh (400ish miles) in August 2020 for a week away, 8 hours of pure comfort each way haha :) As I've mentioned further down, I've got new suspension to fit, as I hope to achieve an OEM+ look/driving feel My old LS 430: I fitted LED face-lift style rear lights, wooden dashboard table, backbox removed and replaced with a straight pipe from the cat-back and performance catalytic converters and an ASC 680 Height Controller, for those who don't know it's a control module that piggy-backs the air suspension ECU and allows for the suspension to be lowered by 10 different levels, each gradually getting lower. I normally ran the car on 5 which sat nicely low and tucked the rear wheels ever so slightly but retained comfort and didn't scrape or catch on speed bumps or potholes of the like. Unfortunately unexpected financial issues meant I had to sell the car to help myself out in the short and long term. After sitting on my driveway for a few months collecting dust I sold the car to my friend and bought a cheap Mk2 MX-5 to keep me happy lol. This LS is still running strong at 230,000+ miles I'm the 3rd owner of my GS; it was owned for 27 years before me, by the original owner. I actually acquired the car by doing a straight swap for my old R53 Mini Cooper S. The previous owner fitted GS 450h wheels, which do look good, but the car sits too high, so I've purchased suspension from a twin turbo JZA80 Supra as it is interchangable with first generation GS 300's (the same with ZZ30 Soarer suspension). It has Eibach lowering springs already fitted which should help with the rather high ride height, but retain an OEM (or as close as) level of comfort, but i am yet to fit these, but I'll hopefully report back if I do. If anyone is selling a Mk1 GS300 sport design grille, I may be interested in purchasing it too! - Liam

😆 Yea! I do wonder John..

Thanks to Bluesman and The-Acre I ended up in a very cold Brighton to at last, get to Grove Garage. As mentioned, Lee is ex-Lexus and the garage in addition to catering to all vehicles is badged up as a Toyota Specialist as indeed they are. Lee also repairs and fabricates exhaust systems. The entrance is small and tight but leads to a good sized workshop. They were very busy. Once the heat shields were off, it first appeared as though a quick repair would be in order with two leaks towards the front of the Y on both sides. These welded up but the driver's side section towards the Y would not hold the weld at all. Visibly all looked well but the metal was thin and as the pipes joined, there was hidden rust underneath and the weld kept pin holing. So it became apparent a larger repair was required. Lee fabricated a new Y section and joined this to the rear pipe and moved the muffler box a few inches back to get a better fit and weld. Total damage all in was £233. Looks good and tidy. At last I have a quiet motor and the correct back-pressure to get the smooth, full power delivery back. 😁 No doubt the petrol consumption will be back to normal - i'd taken a look at whilst trundling along at 60 mph and it looked a bit mean to me...a little off. Next on the list when I can get the weather sorted: have OE rear discs/pads ready to fit. Fan carrier bracket (Gates), ready to fit. Indicator unit ready to fit. Btw velcro is working well keeping old unit in place. I really have to sort out the dings in a few panels, the wheels and the front bumper that looks as though its molting. In our conversation on my 400, Lee said: "Don't sell it will you..." they are indeed rare and prized motors that will become desirable. It's got that shape that looks awful in some respects but in time assumes an attractive aspect. Look at the classics people crave now. No problem with adding my support for Grove Garage. I've discovered and met a garage of choice thanks to The-Acre and Bluesman. It is worth the trip from Reading: important to book in and agree timescales if you are coming from afar as this is a successful and busy busy business. I'll be using again.

Also RX has not snow mode, only old models. And here an example of NX on snow: Lexus NX 300h Hybrid Off Road In Winter Slippery Сlimb - YouTube

Not really, snow mode doesn't do much on Lexus, just makes accelerator less sensitive and may shift earlier, keep higher gear to reduce the slip (e.g. it starts in second on automatic, so may pick lower rate on CVT). Neither, NX not RX has any sort of hill descent mode, which would be very useful in your case - CVT as well means you can't really do proper engine braking (or at least to the amount where you can slow-yourself going downhill), so going downhill and braking might get a little bit sketchy to be honest. Going uphill probably not as much of an issue - especially if you can do a little bit of run-up then AWD system can keep you more or less straight. Overall, it sounds to me like road you planning to drive on aren't too bad, but at the same time NX will be nothing like X-trail. You will need to babysit it more, think about road ahead, probably do "run-ups" sometimes and the inclines which you can doing in first attempt with X-trail may take few tries. But it should not be as bad as you simply could not reach certain part, it is still SUV, still has some AWD and with decent tyres it could do it. It just may not be on first attempt.

Hmmmm ,I fear we may require a very detailed scientific answer as to what we should regard as “ordinary “ and very importantly “legs” unfortunately this may result in some of us questioning the state of our appendages and all well loved shorts fuelling warm fires😂😂😂😂

I have a good relationship with my local dealer so I will probs give them a call and see what they can do for moi 😄

Yes, front to back is fine, but you can't do side to side if directional.

Chris, In the mountains of where? Your height above sea-level ? Look at Youtube Where is your nearest Lexus Dealer and how far from you? What are you driving currently?

Rotating wheels is useful to have same wear on all tires. When doing it in wheels with TPMS you need to be careful to avoid damages to them, but a good tire dealer knows how to do it properly. Actually I am talking about rotating,tires , rotating wheels does not requires to dismount tires.

HV battery CAN'T run out, because they are recharged by thermal engine. 4x4 mode actually is AWD, meaning that you don't have to select a "mode" but ,provided you have a AWD NX and not the only FW version, the system automatically activate the rear electric motor when necessary.

Consider some all-season or snow tyres?

Having a receiver on each side, car recognises the nearest TPMS signal as the valid one to be shown in that position.

V8orbust. Lovely new M135i. Assume thats Misano Blue. Not sure from pics which wheels you have.If they are 18s did you get Adaptive suspension? We are currently in negotiation for a stock M135 but lockdown has obviously affected things.Dealers are telling me they can all do Click and Collect . My wifes M140 is 3 in March but we were hoping to get sorted this month. So far the discounts we are discussing are not to my liking. Noticed your very subtle security enhancement! A J.

Thanks for that Phil. I must admit to not thinking about looking on the Toyota/Yaris forum, of which I am a member, need to get my old grey matter into gear!!

Thats great work you've done. I see you did a water mist clean. I don't know but is the is200 a direct injection car which suffer carbon build up on inlet valve tops? I assume the water mist clean cleared carbon very well? How did you do it? I've seen lots of YouTube videos about valve cleaning but a lot of negative views about water mist cleaning. Really glad you've posted again. Hope you are fit and well in these awful times. Take care 👍

Hopefully to put your mind at rest, my wife has a 2019 Yaris Hybrid and the same thoughts went through my head but on investigation (and on Yaris forums) I found that the cat is located very close to the engine manifold so like the Lexus IS/NX is pretty much impossible to get at from underneath.

In my former GS 300h and now with RX I regularly rotate wheels and no troubles, , wheels position and pressure are correctly read. Else, if you add another wheel set with TPMS sensors you need to register them in car ECU.

I have an old trade card for Halfords, so tend to get the Calcium or Silver batteries, have never had issues with them or Yuasa (silver) and the halfrods own brand used to be made by Bosch (unsure if still the case), plus the warranty cover is pretty decent. Unsure how the prices stack up against LPD but I had presumed (maybe incorrectly) that they would be a rip off. About to replace my '96 LS battery as it has a Lion battery (aka big paperweight) so I will be on the prowl soon.

Rica

Check my post might help you https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/126056-is200-engine-hesitation-when-hot/?tab=comments#comment-1149912

Yeah it could be normal at this mileage but this car was the one in the million, the previous and second owner of the vehicle is an ex rally driver so he took an excellent care of the vehicle in all the aspects even so that the car is running the second clutch set from factory and there's plenty of grip on it, my only disappointment is that is an open diff but besides that, after doing precats and main cat delete because one of the precats disintegrated clogged the main one and other thing the previous owner kinda babied the engine so there was a ton buildup on the piston head and intake manifold so did a water mist cleaning, injector cleaner on more one which ended clogging the main cat to the point that the car wouldn't rev pass 4k after a minute of turning it on and the vacuum would drop almost to 0 by just touching the acc pedal, so took the y pipe out before the main cat since the car was with no precats for a month or so and walla, all the problems were gone including codes for engine running rich in both banks and the p0420. Soo in the car is perfect in everything including compression, fuel pressure and all, only thing out of normal is the temp shown by the iat ordered a new sensor if problem persists i will relocate the sensor, but i have driven a couple of is200 in my life and none of them is as fast as this one even did a 0-60 to check how good was my but dyno and wasn't disappointed, got a time of 8.89. I'm amaze by the state of the car in general plus I only paid 1,500€ for it and the only reason the previous owner sold it to me because he noticed that the car was getting slower progressively and after a couple of his friends couldn't find the problem he just gave up, and one of the mechanics disconnected the o2 from the main cats so no CEL will go on in q short time, he even said that he regretted selling it after having it since 2000 bc he thought it would be something worse like a major fault so I'm glad I ignored the high mileage of the car.

By way of an update, my new toy arrived the other day. Not had a chance to driver her yet, but first impressions are positive. Seats are awesome and overall build quality i have to say, is Lexus-esque. Steering wheel is too thick, only downside I can think of as of now. Can't comment on the drive yet. Pics are rubbish so apologies. The eagle eyed will spot a subtle change I've already made.

Out of curiosity I have just started keeping track of LS 400s and Celsiors for sale, and the first thing I have noticed is that there seems to be a tipping point between 80,000 and 100,000, under which the asking price is over £5,000. Admittedly there are only 10 cars on the list, so I shall persevere. Hopefully this means that the better cars will be more appreciated for what they represent.

Looking at the 1998 which has had “ no expense spared by its elderly owner” but has in the past failed MOTs on “Cord showing on tyre” and running advisories for lower front ball joints it does make you wonder. Just reinsured mine and again increased the “agreed value” to £6000.00 based on a similar replacement would now cost £10,000 plus to import from Japan plus I have no deduction salvage should the worst ever happen.

It's certainly nice to have a car that has gone up in value, mine have always gone the other way!

Yep, I second that. It's usually accepted that "lifetime" generally has a limit of 100,000 miles, although on transmissions that are known to have issues with old transmission fluid, it can be prudent to replace the fluid every 50,000 miles. Just my opinion and what I've heard from mechanics. What manufacturers call lifetime has a different definition from what a normal person would infer from the word. "Lifetime" can be the warranty period (as short as 3 years), or the intended lifetime of that model from the manufacturers point of view (maybe 5-10 years), or it could be mileage (usually 100,000 miles). Basically it's marketing-speak for as long as it takes for punters to stop bringing the car back to main dealers for service so it becomes someone else's problem. 🙂

Yep, it has gone to battery heaven as the chart below will show: You need to use the car more or, given the lockdown, the advice on Toyota's website was to put the car in P and READY mode for 60 minutes per week. The petrol engine will fire up as needed to keep the 12V battery topped up, but don't leave it unattended because anyone could drive away in it once it's in READY mode - just sit in it and read the paper or something.

I agree, that looks like a fine example, and for a change someone's selling an LS without scabby wheels!

Ive plenty of scallops so no need for me to go to Iceland (shop or Country) ohh back on thread 😂 i renewed my 12v battery,

I seem to remember you said you were trying Hybrid Assistant a couple of months ago. If you've got any of the records from then you could compare what the percentage state of charge was then and whether it's changed now. The bars on the meter don't represent the full capacity of the battery. The lowest my battery will go is 40% (generally shown as two bars or very occasionally as one bar) and then the engine starts. The engine then keeps running until the battery has reached 50% (three bars) and then it stops. In normal use, the battery percentage is generally in the 50s (three to five bars). I believe the maximum it will go to is 80% at which point motor-generater 1 (MG1) will start drawing power from the battery to reduce the charge. If the car is stationary MG1 will be spinning the engine as a load to use up the excess power and it sounds as if the engine is running but in fact it isn't using any petrol while being spun by MG1. If there has been a change in the software, I wonder if they have simply changed the number of bars used to represent any given percentage. This might be because people instinctively think it's good to have more bars rather than fewer, as you would with the petrol tank. But the battery is more like a container that you're using to collect excess energy. If it's already full you can't collect any excess energy. So ideally you would want the battery to be around 50% capacity. That would give plenty of room to save energy from braking but also enough already stored for a quick burst of acceleration.

For sure you gained some moisture in the cables. As i said earlier you must change the whole cable later when you have mood and time for that. This recent situation pointed out to cables (because you had signal from camera) So the only thing left is : cable 🙂

BUT would an owner wish to preserve the car in " aspic " or to use it to get full benefit from driving such a wonderful car air suspension too ? Would be lost on me owning such a car, I'd want to use it without worrying too much about parking dings and dents etc It also retains that silly front spoiler under the front bumper that I had surgically removed coz mine kept knocking against kerbs etc ..... it's a tad too low for normal human use to my mind BUT she does look a very fine car to be sure ! Malc

When the ATF is worn out, the transmission’s life doesn't have much time left. Corrosion inhibitors gradually lose effectiveness. Viscosity extenders wear out. All lubricants degrade with time and use. Pumps chop long molecules into shorter ones.

Edward Hall doesn't sell cheap cars, but they have a good reputation. Perhaps, as the saying goes, the quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten.

if you have passengers getting in and out of the back seat regulary fluff off their clothes can enter the filter and if you have young children they may even post things through the slots what little darlings they can be

Before changing the 12v battery, I would check the voltage, then bring it up to full charge with a smart charger which charges at 5amp max. Then monitor it to check how it is holding its charge. If my car is not used for about 10 days or just lightly to local store I am having to trickle charge it. (It's gone back for further repairs at present and I just hope the battery is being charged as I requested as I don't want to replace it just yet - long story).

I use sports mode when overtaking (cyclist, tractors, etc.) on single carriageways. I find the better throttle response really helps. Other than that, normal mode is sufficient for me.

Don't put it in Sports mode!.... It will go into Hyper mode, Peel your face off your Skull, and Rev up too 11,000 Rpm and tear the tread off your Tyres!! you have been warned!! 😂

Glad you are enjoying your car. I tend to use Sport Mode when I need to zip away more quickly (junction etc) and occasionally when overtaking for a bit of extra oomph. I quite like the feel of how it tightens up the steering too but its nice to flick between Sports and Normal to appreciate their differences. I rarely use Eco as I find it unsafe if anything (being so unresponsive).

Place in Brighton only charged me about £50 to take the Y section out and weld it, that was about 5 years ago. been OK ever since. I think they were called Grove Motors. There are quite a few people on the LOC so I expect someone will pop up with all their details.

Hi Last time I checked, the Y section costs around £300 from the main dealer, but if you go to a specialist, they will charge around £125 to cut the flanges and weld a stainless steel pipe instead