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Clean MOT Pass yesterday afternoon. Only done a little over 4,000 miles since the 5th Jan 2020. Only mentioned (not reported) issue is excessive tyre wear on inside of the front left tyre. Probably just needs an alignment check and a new tyre. Not urgent as the inside still has 3mm tread (5mm elsewhere). The MOT tester asked if I wanted to sell it. When I said no, he told me all the LS owners say that. I pointed him at this forum and he said he'd have a look as he's wanted one for some time. He said he loves testing them as they have so little rust underneath and just feel solid and well built.

I think the Lexus engineers need a word with their oppo's at Hyundai. My wife's Ioniq has one of these buttons: If the 12v battery goes flat for any reason (it hasn't yet and the car gets as much use as mine at the moment, which isn't much) a simple press pushes lots of volts from the hybrid battery to the 12v battery and off you go again. Or something like that. Following some fun with my late father's iQ ("Satan"), I bought one of these: It has been used to start my IS300h a couple of times now and will remain in the boot. Just in case.

Sorry about the delay in updating everyone. So I sent the car to a local garage and they were able to fix it ( They cut the wires through and installed a new connector). Total cost 80 pounds. I now have anti rodent tape over the wiring looms and connectors (the ones I can reach to). Installed a battery operated Rat repellent (I just pop in somewhere in the engine bay when the car engine area is cool and parked up) The main thing is, I now park it elsewhere away from the usual parking spot till the council fix the pest issue. We have seen a reduction in the rats lately due to pest control taking some actions around the whole area, so by summer hoping it will have gone down by a considerable amount.

Received my February renewal from Esure @ £387 so I compared online to find that the best quote turned out to be £311 ... with Esure! So I called Esure who were able to verify that I had received a lower quote from them using an online comparison site and would I like them to match it for my renewal? Clearly 'yes' ... so for exactly the same cover I have now agreed a renewal of £307. It seems to prove my theory, which I also experience every time my RAC cover falls due, that annual renewals are loaded (I think it's known as 'premium-walk' or some such term) such that the providers rely upon many customers automatically renewing without question which is where they make an easy profit. A guy I spoke to at the RAC actually admitted this to me last year - he was just leaving their employ! So ALWAYS query and challenge your renewal by seeking other quotes, I know it's a pain but gone are the days where loyalty is taken into account ... if anything it's quite the opposite! Pressure is apparently being applied to prevent Insurance Companies offering new customers a cheaper premium than existing customers for the same risk but I don't think it's reached the statute books yet.

Why not have a solar powered charger built into the parcel shelf to keep the battery topped up.

I think this is better than a picture of me. No reason to scare the readers.

Always a good feeling.

I took a punt on an Apple CarPlay solution for my RCF from Ali Express. The BeatSonic one was a) out of stock at the time and b) 3x the price and c) not wireless...... so having fitted one from china to my wife's mercedes with excellent results I thought why not. Shortlisted 5 sellers and then selected that down to 1 after exchanging many messages with each of the sellers. I was ill over Xmas and New Year but plan to fit myself very soon and if successful, I will post up links and a guide.

I think the sweet spot is probably somewhere between the two. There are plenty of no-name (or silly, obviously made up name) cheap Chinese ones out there that you really shouldn't waste money on, but I also think spending that amount of money is way OTT. I have one made by DB Power and a mechanic mate has one made by Suaoki, both reasonably well known companies with good reputations. I've used mine about 20 times (never on my own car) and, being a mechanic, he uses his much more. I think mine was about £60-£65 and his was about £75-£80 and neither of them have ever let us down.

The Lexus asset protector insurance only covers minor cosmetic damage that can be repaired by an operator from a mobile van on your drive. I would say your options are: 1. Claim on your insurance policy. An insurance repair should use new replacement parts and if the car is less than six months old most insurers will replace the car. Obviously you lose your damage excess and, even if you have a protected NCB there will be an at fault claim on your insurance record so your premiums will go up. Note this may be your only option if you don't own the car outright - e.g. it is leased or financed on a PCP arrangement. 2. Have the damage repaired by an independent repairer at your expense. Given that Lexus 'know' your car you can expect them to take a very hard look at that repair if you ever want to trade the car in for a new Lexus. Theoretically you are supposed to let your insurer know if you have had an accident even if you don't make a claim.

Sometimes you get what you pay for. A cheap no name Chinese company selling a poorly designed product under multiple different brands on Ebay and Amazon in which you may be lucky and get ones that works, or purchase a product from a large company that has an image to uphold and conforms to all the required safety standards across the world and provides owner support.

I had a cheap one of these some time ago and was initially quite impressed. I started my V8 soarer from dead, my V6 Sedona from dead and neighbors transit diesel all in one charge. Used it a couple of times and then ot just stopped. It would charge completely but when used for anything other than a power bank it did nothing, so it went back still under warranty. After some consideration I decided it was time for another one, but this time I wouldn't go cheap. Bit of research and some chat with some other people and I settled on this https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/jump-starters/gb70-2000a-noco-jump-starter-721906.html But when I bought it last month it was £170, quite a bit more than my last one but I have to say a whole different class. Gave it it's first charge which tool some time via USB and then off to the soarer. The soarer hadn't been started for about 4 months and was completely dead..... Hooked it up and first go, straight into life https://youtube.com/shorts/n8NeBLsvH08 So it passed..... But what about as a power bank? So off to the house boat and a sunken boat (long story) and after 2 hours of continuous running a pump and the boat was empty and the porta power? Only one light had dropped, so plenty of juice left All in all am very impressed with ot so far. I have emailed the manufacturer in America and they said to deplete it completely at times and recharge to full, so I will use it some more and do as they say.

They are called "sleepers". Most people including myself dont change insurances, electricity or gas suppliers, subscriptions etc and exactly that is where companies are making the profit.

I knew you'd know! Thanks for putting me straight Herbie :-)

Perhaps the strain of arriving at a decision finally took its toll?

I would have bought it too - except Honda had stopped selling any Accord in the UK! Which is why I went looking at Lexus. You certainly were unfortunate with your Honda. It sounds like what we call a ‘Friday Night’ car - although that was more a British thing than Japanese. On the other hand, you obviously survived what seems to be a heavy impact on what I presume is the driver’s door. My wife and I both walked away from the Accord, with not even a scratch between us, when it was written off on the motorway. So no complaints about build quality! As I said earlier, I had two Hondas, both discontinued, for a total of 20 years and 200K miles without any problems at all. But considering the current ranges, I too would stay with Lexus. Unless I’ve missed it, we’re still waiting for the OP to come back and tell us which one he bought - if either!

I assume the Hyundai button just enables the DC/DC converter to supply the 12V system and charge the battery a bit. Apparently all-electric cars like the Taycan and the i-Pace are prone to 12V battery flattening (i.e. a breakdown) as they also use DC/DC converters to charge the vehicle system batteries.

Don't forget to drop the engine and gearbox first. And I strongly recommend a helper to hold the painfully heavy bonnet while you attach the struts.

good luck with your balls then 😵 Malc

I agree and I know some people have had the cheap Chinese one turn out ok and I guess I didn't need to pay as much for the brand I got as they had lower spec ones that would have done the job. What made it harder as a choice was my needs. I had just inherited a house boat with various small boats and having the portable power supply with the cigarette lighter output was a big consideration as it meant I could power a 12v pumps and lights etc as well as using it to jump start

The traction battery should be able to stand for at least a couple of months without use and probably a lot longer than that - it's the 12V battery that will give you problems. Toyota's advice during the last lockdown when we really couldn't drive anywhere was to put the car into READY mode with the shift lever in 'P' for 60 minutes per week. The petrol engine will fire up as and when necessary to keep the battery topped up but don't leave the car unattended as someone could drive off in it. If you don't do it (or actually drive the car) the 12V battery will probably be dead within two to three weeks.

These are the cuts I had to do through the retaining clip that holds the ball in place it is impossible to get these clips out with any tools .

Go to Lexus Vehicle Servicing & Maintenance | Lexus UK and scroll down a bit and enter your model GS300h in the drop down box - dealer service prices are listed for each service - also just below that you can again use a drop down to show what each service covers. After 5 years you can move to Essential Care servicing which is about 30% cheaper Lexus Essential Care | Lexus UK (though not all cars listed, select the one that is closest to get an idea of pricing) - this page also lists prices of some common maintenance jobs.

I'm a big fan of scrambled eggs. That's why my fuel bills are high

Guys, we've done some measuring today and the light bulbs get 12V, both relays in the boot show 4.5 Ohm. I've noticed that there is still a little bit of dampness in the boot, so I'll pick up a dehumidifier tomorrow first thing and I'll lock it in the boot for a good few hours. Once everything's crispy dry, I'll start looking again at issues.

It all depends on what you want to do but a good quality SS cat back (or third cat delete) replacement exhaust system, done properly, should cost around £700, perhaps a little less. Replacement exhaust parts from the dealer are still available and may not be as expensive as you might imagine. Some owners have gone that route. It's unlikely that a decent used exhaust becomes available but you never know.

Sign the petition - change.org 'Develop CarPlay Retrofits to Lexus LS and LC' @Kevin Williams I am in the market for a used LC, hence my passion for this subject. The contemptuous tone taken towards me on that thread didn't warrant a reply from me.

Looking forward to getting mine done however due to the very low mileage I’m doing nowadays and the fact I still have 3mm tread depth I will defer this for a while. Just hope I don’t get stuck anywhere!

Thanks Pete. I have ordered a coolant temperature sensor and I will take it from there. Has anyone got a set of the caps for the ECU? I was going to have the ECU done the year before last as I was near Devon (think this was one place to get it done) but I never got around to ordering the parts! Any other suggestions on where to get the ECU done will be gratefully received.

Here is how to test the seat cushion heater continuity (1997 model):

Had to venture out in today's heavy snow (for approved reasons) and the NX was fine on ungritted & unplowed local country roads with some steepish uphill stretches, including one where I passed several stuck vehicles. However I credit the Michelin CrossClimates with a lot of this. The last time we had any significant snowfall, the NX did not inspire confidence on its OEM Bridgestones. I suspect with the relatively small amounts of snow most of the UK generally gets, tyre choice is almost as important as the vehicle.

50mph for me. As soon as I exceed 50 the petrol engine switches on. As others have said, the slightest increase of pressure on the accelerator at speeds between about 30 and 50 will do the same. Have to treat the accelerator like it has eggs underneath it!

In all intents and purposes, if the ICE is off, therefore not providing power, and it’s running purely on battery, that is EV mode. Even the little green light agrees and states the car is running EV mode As to the pedantry of EV mode / in operation, is simply semantics

Sorry to hear this has happened to you. I’d suggest tying up anything hanging onto the ground and don’t drive it further than the recovery truck. This is what insurance is for really even though it will likely put the renewal cost up a little for a few years. I’d go the official route myself, until they chop it off would they stop and check if it is an oem part? Lexus posted a bit on this issue a while back: https://blog.lexus.co.uk/catalytic-converter-theft There are some threads on here about the cat lock with more detail on that. Sadly it is probably like other burglaries, now the scumbags know where your car is they might try again. You might also consider a security doorbell/camera that covers your drive as a deterrent.

No problem... Although, I would not count on it as selling point. People generally simply expect brakes to work and that is it, however keeping car in presentable condition is always good idea and gives potential buyers a better impression. So.. it certainly wont hurt, but I doubt it will add value. good luck with it and make sure to post some pics!

One knows one`s plaice then ! That makes at least too of us.

I have read about this before and when sorted the person bought some 'Rodent-deterrent tape'. Just google it for suppliers.

Thank you, I will keep everyone posted on the update.

Where is the wire that should be in that connector? Unless I'm missing something I can't see it. Anyway, you'll need something like this to get at the connector terminals to release them and remove the bits of wire that are left in there. Then you'll need two lengths of wire, connecting one end to the loom and the other end in the connector. EDIT: I think I've just seen the 'other ends' of the wires in the grey corrugated conduit below the connector, so you'll need to cut that conduit open (if it's not the split type) to get enough length to connect to.

I took ROSPA motorcycle test 2 years ago, I found it a very good experience and gives you more knowledge on road positioning and anticipation, I got Silver. Now, before every bike season I read Roadcraft as a reminder, just so I a safer rider. After I passed mine I was going to buy a few car lessons for my wife (car lessons) but arrival of a 2nd daughter didn't let that happen!

^^ In about 2013 my employer paid for a group of us to complete a two day course run by two former police drivers. I can honestly say my driving changed forever after that course, which included classroom sessions, sessions where the instructors drove, and sessions where we drove and were assessed. Driving for 30 minutes on public roads while having to ‘commentate’ on everything I saw and why I did things was fascinating, but by the third time it became almost second nature. Something as obvious as really looking ahead was actually difficult at first. We all develop bad habits I guess. Based on my experience I’d fully recommend some type of advanced course for everybody on a ten year cycle.

One copy arriving tomorrow!

I've seen several of Reg Local's videos and they are very good. He is the guy from Barryboys (God Rest its Soul) isn't he?

I did the IAM test about 20 years ago and then was an observer for a few years. I then did the ROSPA test which is like the IAM but you retake it every 3 years and are graded Bronze, Silver and Gold. My son passed his IAM test last year. It helps with anticipation and fits well with a hybrid driving style. Worth doing. In the mean time check out Roadcraft and the Reg Local YouTube videos. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I still double declutch in my NX. Every time I have to scrape my face off the windscreen though 😂

Buy yourself a copy of 'Roadcraft' a very good ready on advanced driving techniques. I was very fortunate in my career to have been the recipient of numerous driving courses starting with a 6 week long 'standard' course at the now defunct No6 Regional Police Driving School in Wiltshire. Once you have learnt to system drive it remains with you throughout your life. Advanced observation and road positioning is the key although double declutching is no longer required 😂😂

I took my advanced test in 2003 after thinking about it for a long time. So glad I did, it makes you "think" about driving in a different light. It also makes you appreciate how generally poor the overall standard of driving is. I went out with a local observer a few times before my test which was a great help. All I paid for was the test but things might be different now.thing Go for it, you wont regret it (but your wife might 😁) Les

I did it in 1989 and then completed a course as an "observer" in my local group which I did for a few years. I can highly recommend it as it will improve anyone's skills. it has changed in the intervening years but still very good. When my employer made all it's drivers take a driving assessment the assessor offered me a job in his driving school but I turned him down. Paul

Just got round to replacing my boot struts. Before, it needed a fair haul to raise the boot lid and it dropped like a stone if I wasn't careful enough. Now it shoots up after a short easy one-finger lift as in Chris's video and it needs a good pull down to close it. Note on fitting - if you have a workshop manual, it tells you to strip out pretty much the whole boot. This is quite unnecessary - what you do is: Unclip the boot light and remove the plug. Remove the two rope hooks in the roof of the boot - they have release catches front and rear - just squeeze them and the hooks pull out easily. Pull the upper boot liner rearwards slightly - this releases four clips along the rear edge of the liner. The liner will drop down sufficiently to get at the struts (it's a bit of a reach to the back). Unclip the back end of the strut by bending the 'ears' of the stainless steel clip away from the lug with a small screwdriver. The strut now just pulls off. At the front, again using a small screwdriver, remove the retaining clip and pull the strut off the ball joint. Just push the new strut on to the lug at the back and the ball joint at the front. It clips in to place. You should be able to do one at a time - one strut seems to be sufficient to hold the boot lid in the open position. When replacing the liner - make sure that the plug/wire for the boot light is poking through the hole for the light, lift the liner into position making sure that the four locating clips along the rear edge engage properly and replace the rope hooks - they just clip in. Plug in the boot light and clip it in to place. It is a bit tight. Make sure that the edge of the rubber trim around the boot covers the edge of the boot liner. Job done. I got the struts from SGS - £52.78 inc postage for the pair. The new struts are actually branded nitrolift.com - Nitro-Lift services LLC appears to be a US Nitrogen services company. Don't worry about the IS300 thing on SGS web site - those are the correct struts for IS250 and IS220D etc. And don't bother to try and find part numbers etc on the original struts - they carry the logo for KYB (a well known shock absorber etc company) and some japanese writing - no numbers.

Morning Chums, yesterday my current wife subjected me to what can only be described as a tirade against my driving skills, or the apparent lack of (in her opinion). She was of course completely wrong but I was wondering about investigating the Advanced Driving course (https://www.iamroadsmart.com/), so if she did complain in future I could reply "I've done the Advanced Driving Course, so nuuuur". Has anyone else here done the course, and if so, what are your thoughts? I should add that I was awarded "this week's Star Baker" status on a driving day at Thruxton in 2018....