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Boot is smaller on the 300h/450h but still bigger than your IS250. Nothing wrong with the GS250 but just be aware that they didn't sell many so are difficult to find. Depreciation is high (good if you are being used and will keep for a long time). Fuel consumption is high. Road tax is high.

Another wonderfully controversial thread, a mixture of various but often irrational opinions, financial speculation and comparative irrelevances to create Forum intrigue. ☺️ MY opinion, for what it's worth, is that however old or valueless your car might be, as long as it is well maintained and serving its purpose in respect of your very own criteria, then why change it? 🤔 If your criteria change such that you feel you need more comfort, more power, more economy, more space, more technology then change the car. The only financial reason for changing will be that a mechanical failure or damage repair works out to be substantially more than the car is worth, an individual judgement that will vary depending entirely upon the individual owner. 🙂 And Linas, before you say "define substantially" I'm not going to, because that element of decision making has no statistics or fact-found analysis to back it up because it's opinion-based and very personal. 😉 Have a lovely day gentlemen. 👋

Its not all about money !!!!!!!!!!!! it is only a means to an end ................... the enjoyment you get from some cars is part of lifes journey ...........I have a brother and his wife who account for everthing !!!................. miserable sods !!!!!!!! being in their house is like being in some big xcel spread sheet !

Where I live the potholes are so bad that it negates the need for speed bumps to slow traffic down!

I'm not aware of any hard data available on this, I only have other people's opinions to go on. However I've yet to meet a trusted technician who would advise not changing the fluid, consensus seems to be that somewhere above 100k they will start to show problems if not maintained. Garage owners who see loads and loads of cars and transmission failures all seem to say the same thing, change the fluid. A cynical person might say "well of course they do, that's how they make money" but I've also had the same people turn down work they could have easily taken because they are honest people. I also suspect that £1200 is highly optimistic for a high quality replacement transmission. Maybe you could get the job done for that but I doubt you'll get another 200k out of the replacement unit. When I had my fluid changed at 77k Russell showed me the jar of fluid he'd drained out of it, it was dark brown and obviously depleted. At the end of the day it's a balance of risk, if you're happy to take the risk then good luck to you, I like to drive with the confidence that I'm going to get where I'm going.

It is neither Warranty nor Service life, it is the Production Run Life of the Model, usually a maximum of 7 years.

Lexus eCVT gearbox used in RX450h is a very reliable unit, which contains two electric motors, planetary gear and differential. It does not have friction plates and switching gears as in a traditional automatic gearboxes, and for this reason requires less attention. It has about 5 litres of Toyota WS AT fluid as lubricant. Lexus service manuals and dealership suggest that the AT fluid is filled for the entire life of the car (one could wonder whether it is the warranty life or the service life). Common sense suggests that the AT fluid has to be changed in older cars with hundreds thousands miles on the clock, because no lubricant can retain its characteristics after years of intensive use. I decided to change the AT fluid as a part of major service in my RX450h 2011 at 186k miles. To do this one needs to pour old oil using one oil drain and fill new oil though another until the level reaches the filling hole (the car has to be level when filling). Always make sure you can unwind the filling oil plug before draining the oil! Otherwise you can end up with no oil inside and no way to fill it. Draining the old AT oil. Use a pan to collect the old oil. Be careful not to spill the oil if you do it anywhere outside of a dedicated area in a garage. While working under the car, adhere to manufacturer's safety instructions for such cases. Filling plug (from the front left wheel side, between the CV joint coming to the gearbox and the steering rack). The filling plug has restricted access and is quite tight. Best use an oil drain plug key with an elbow to unwind it (from £8-10). I had to add a piece of metal pipe to extend the elbow to about 30cm to gain sufficient momentum to before the oil plug gave in. To fill new oil need it is convenient to use an oil suction device with hose (retail from £4-5): The manufacturer specification for the AT fluid is "Toyota WS". I used Millers Millermatic ATF SPIII-WS, which meets the Toyota WS specifications (currently £40 for 5l at OpieOils). In my case about 4 litres of new oil went in (certain amount of the old oil always remains in the gearbox). I used the remainder for the rear differential. Old oil: dark brown/red. Recycling of the used oil The old oil can usually be left for recycling at council recycling centres for free (Brent Reuse and Recycling Centre in my case), or brought to a familiar garage (they all collect old motor and transmission oil for recycling). Please never pour the old oil into toilet or drop the canisters with old oil into general waste or recycling bins: it must be properly recycled or it will cause damage to the environment! Overall mechanical skill required: medium. Tools required: oil drain plug key set and manual oil suction pump, some pan to collect the drained oil (mind that you will not be able to clean it from oil completely). Time required: 1 hour. Total cost, including the required tools: about £50. Ex-post analysis: worth doing on cars with >100k mileage if you desire to maintain the car in good shape. 6k miles after oil replacement, the car goes well, no issues and no differences (the gearbox had no issues before oil change). Disclaimer: The above showcases my personal experience only. Please refer to official service / repairs manuals and consult a qualified specialist. When planning to do this job by yourself ensure that you adhere to all relevant safety instructions, have sufficient understanding of the subject area and have sufficient qualification and experience to undertake such job.

NO relation Herbie. Brothers are Chris and Andy and they live in Chorley / Exuxton area. Cheers Phil

Non dealer garage, you can easy do it by your own as you explained, no point to go to lexus for easy bits to do

Hi all. If you are near the Wheel Specialist they are worth ago our dealer i could not recommend enough 5 star work. We have just had a Diamond Cut wheel on the Aygo done this is re machining the face and it was £132.00. Diamond wheels are more expensive. I have used them before so know they are well worth it. I do not have anything to do with the Wheel Specialist just giving my opinion as have had excellent service when have used them before. 65mike.

Thanks for the info Herbie. I was born in Preston, domiciled in Yorkshire since 1993. I have two brothers living near Chorley. I will take a look at what Lexus Preston have in stock. Garage very close to where I worked from 1975 until 1990 when a better job took me down south. Last time I checked Preston had no used Premier Sport Edition models on sale. That variant only became available in early 2020 I believe to get around the governments expensive car tax rules for cars costing more than £40k or for a hybrid producing above a certain level of co2 emissions. The extended warranted for a 3 years car taking it to 5 years cover looks excellent value for money to me, good decision I would say. Cheers Phil

The following is text taken from the press release outlining the trim grades for the 250 model of the fourth gen GS. There is no Premier option. UK Grade structure Entry point to the new GS range is the GS 250 SE, powered by a 207bhp (154kW) 2.5-litre V6 Dual VVT-i petrol engine. The specification includes 17-inch alloy wheels, automatic bi-xenon headlamps and windscreen wipers, LED daytime running lights and a rear-view camera with parking guide monitor. Cabin comfort is assured with smooth leather upholstery, dual-zone climate control and electrically adjustable front seats (10-way, with memory setting for the driver’s seat) with heating and ventilation functions. The steering wheel is electrically adjustable, too, and incorporates paddle shifts. On-board entertainment is provided by a 12-speaker audio system with CD player, DAB tuner, Bluetooth and USB/Aux ports for connecting personal music players. The Luxury trim builds on the SE specification with the introduction of 18-inch alloys, front and rear parking sensors, an auto-dimming rear-view mirror and an HDD satellite navigation system with Remote Touch Interface controller. Luxury grade also provides a new blind spot detection system integrated into the folding/auto-dimming door mirrors. F Sport versions of GS make a stronger style statement thanks to 19-inch rims, a boot-lip spoiler and sports-styled bumpers and front grille with a distinctive F Sport mesh design. In addition to the Luxury specification, the F Sport has bi-xenon headlights with an automatic high beam function, as well Lexus’s Adaptive Front-lighting System, which adjusts the beam direction as the car approaches bends and turns at junctions.

I saw once how the converter was cut off a Toyota Prius right in front of my house. I barely managed to open camera on my phone to make a video before they were gone. All I managed to record was a lightless tail of the departing car with unrecognisable number plates. All around, it was done in under a minute in the night with no lights at all. These gangs know their stuff, and use top tools. I bet they know quite a bit about what cars have more rare metal in the converters and what are easier to cut. This is very reassuring to know that RX mk3 and more recent are probably not on their list.

I've ordered a low current amp clamp to avoid the issue of waking up modules when disconnecting the earth lead (and yes, I know that they are not terribly accurate). Hopefully it will let me let the car go into sleep mode as well before testing I'm suspecting that the current draw rises dramatically when the key is put to acc, presumably because systems go live waiting for the actual "start". I can't find any info online about exactly what extra load is placed on the battery in this state. The RX400H would be a terrible car for a police stakeout where they sit for hours with the radio on, eating doughnuts. Villains emerge, Plod tries to start car for the dramatic chase...and nothing. Still, better than the old Rover 3500s where the hydraulic valves couldn't catch up to the pistons from rest until the pressure built up. My dad had that happen a long time ago.

Hi Hugh The mark 4s are rarely troubled with the pump leak that was common on the Mark 1 &2 the configuration of the pump and reservoir were redesigned to eliminate the cause of the leak which was the mating of the pump housing and reservoir. Check out the area around the bottom of the pump and the top of the alternator if this is dry there is no leak.

True but what’s the alternative in that situation? £3k isn’t going to buy a replacement car that id be happy with, and even if it did it would be an unknown quantity. Seems far more sensible to stick with the car I know is otherwise tip top.

...shudder... But on the plus side, how many houses did you sell in that time?

I don't see the point in spending above the vehicle's market value on a repair. Yes the vehicle could go another 100k miles without an issue, but it could equally be written off the next day, through no fault of your own, and you receive somewhere from £2000 to £2400 as settlement from your insurance. Obviously spending £300 every 5 years to avoid a £3k transmission bill is the sensible option, although a transmission failure can occur for various reasons, not just due to the fluid condition.

I have my S2000 , & SC430 as toys . regardless of cost .............. I have my CRV ........ as transport . My other half has CX3 ............ to go out and earn money to keep me in cars !🤣

This is a given, but again value on paper is meaningless to most people with older cars. The value of my car is that I can get into it and drive somewhere. The value of that has not diminished at all during the time I've owned it and the averaged out monthly cost of keeping it in good condition is well worth it for that benefit.

Cars in a working state, particularly ones with a known history and where you've made sure they are serviced correctly, are often worth a lot more to their owner than their market resale value. Rather than just looking at what the car is worth on paper you should look at what it would cost to replace it, and take into consideration the array of unknowns that a new used car brings with it. Also "lifetime" from the mouth of a manufacturer means expected service life. For most cars these days that's around 100k. "sealed for life" means exactly what it says, because when the fluid's all burnt up it's done.

Jeeeeeeeeeez ! Lighten up........I was joking !🥰

Also, re: your point about your transmission that nearly made it to 200k without a fluid change - everyone can point at one person who smoked 40 a day for their entire life and lived to 92. I'd rather base my decisions on what happens in the aggregate though.

Well done with the battery warranty. Let it stand awhile after delivery. I remember on my old BMW e39 I had intermittent DSC light. Like the RX poor battery performance caused problems. But in the end, I cleaned up (accumulated mud) from the wheel sensors, replaced worn discs and pads. Problem solved. The RX too may need a proper wheel area inspection. It may be mechanical not electrical. good luck

Yes, I wonder if there’s a market for barely used e-tech alloy wheel repair kits? To be fair, it did enable me to reprofile the rim but the colour mismatch was possibly even more obvious than the original damage. Hence the attraction of the Alloygators. Still, you’re better off than I am as I have no other projects. We have a small Suzuki SX4 4x4, but unlike the Lexus alloys with their tendency to break out in a rash at the first sniff of a kerb, the Suzuki has proper ‘who-are-you-looking-at’ steel wheels which are unmarked despite engaging in unarmed combat with local kerbs, potholes and ploughed fields.

I would hazard a guess that the quoted £150 did not include a filter replacement. Some cars don't have a replaceable filter assembly but a 2007 IS? I'd be surprised if it wasn't replaceable.

A used broken one? 😛

The additional leg support was available on the F Sport and Premier grade 4GS. I’m not sure if the Premier was available on the GS250 but I’m someone will confirm shortly. One thing to consider is that the boot in the GS250 will be slightly larger than the GS450h/300h due to the batteries these models have to accommodate. Either way, the boot is still larger than the IS250.

Hey Chan. Can you get to a dealer to at least sit in any GS? I assume that would give you an idea at least. I think we're allowed to do that... I'd go for a GS250 all day long. Just like I would go for the facelift IS250, another rare one. Nothing wrong with the hybrids, they're marvellous. But I'm not interested in speed, just comfort. And I like the idea of a more modern Lexus but with a more traditional 6 cylinder.

I mean I looked into service manual a while back and procedure isn't difficult, it is just tedious and you have to follow all the steps (which is the purpose of having procedure). However, now give that to your standard garage mechanic with attention span of squirrel and it is not hard to imagine it failing. Especially, steps 6 and 7 where you need to get transmission up-to specific temp etc.

The key to doing it is to run the car at the correct temperature as detailed in the procedure ( either with the help of techstream or the get around as detailed) and then undo the stack level hex . This is in the centre of the pan . Then let the fluid out to a slow drip . I agree with the statement " Dont do it unless you know what you are doing , have the tools ( techstream etc) and explicitly follow the rountine . FULL mechanical flushes as stated above somewhere are not recommened on the 760/960 range .Four or 5 cycles of a few litres and check adjust level on last cycle is the best procedure , but again ................ ONLY IF YOU DO IT CORRECTLY

It certainly wasn't an accidental wording 😁

I had the same thing on most of my cars, but it not as excessive. Which leads me to believe alignment needs to be checked. The standard bushings on IS250 as well causes tow-out under braking and bushing being fairly worn on OP's car could contribute to that as well. In short I don't think the wear on the tyres are from the humps alone, but they are contributing factor. Overall, speedhumps are really really bad... for everything... I don't even want to get started on this, but it is enough to say they cause more deaths than they prevent and on top of that damages the cars, causes more pollution and are in all possible ways negative thing. It really seems like in 21st century we could have better solution than basically creating potholes on the road.

Regarding the wear on the iner edge of your tyres, this is probably due to speed humps, the ones you straggle. We had this on my wifes car. Plenty of tread depth, but the inner edge badly worn. Had it tracked and nothing wrong with it. Research showed that this was a common problem caused by speed humps. https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/askhj/answer/66969/do-speed-humps-cause-tyre-damage- There were about 8 speed humps on her way into work every day, so theory was right.

Yes, you get ~3.5-4L in the pan. Please show me where it states recommended schedule for Aisin A960E. I partially agree with you here, the problem is - Lexus UK outright refuses to do fluid change. If you insist they do 1L refresh at most. So your only option is either finding transmission specialists which not only difficult to find, but expensive as well... or trusting local garage who have little clue about correct procedures and don't have correct tools. This means in practice procedures are most likely not to be followed. Now it is all great if you are aircraft engineer yourself and can follow correct procedures and do change yourself, or if you live nearby gearbox specialist which you happen to know and who can do it for you at reasonable cost. Otherwise if gearbox causes no issues I would advise leaving it at that, certainly less risk than giving it to generic local garage and gambling on them refilling correct amount of fluid... mostly by accident.

I remember trying the same thing with the e-tech kit on my IS250, the sanding and filling is OK but the final colour is 'take it or leave it'. I guess they can't make a kit for every shade of wheel. Also they don't supply the primer which is an essential and they also say to use etching primer before the regular primer if you're spraying bare aluminium. Needless to say, I've got a lot of the kit left for other projects 🤣

It's bit too early to come up with a conclusion. I only did 180 miles on them. At the moment tyres feel very stiff and not too grippy. Over few weeks I should break them in.

You don't say what age of GS you are thinking of. Seats are a little bigger than IS which may be all you need. If you get a top of the range GS then the drivers seat should have cushion length adjustment.

Took it to Dublin today. This car brings so much joy to me... I am very lucky that I'm still able to drive it 😄

Yes I am, I've done a first aid repair which improves the look until I get it professionally sorted, it's not too late and an hours work is not wasting a lot of effort when I had nothing better to do on a sunny afternoon. Oh and I'm not 'stressing out', it's not something I do, I just want to look after my vehicle which had a list price of over £40k, pretty sure that's understandable. I'm not a concours man but I do take pride in my vehicles. All constructive recommendations will continue to be welcomed until the final repair (and it IS a repair) is done. I'm not really that interested in criticism or unconstructive opinions though. 😉

@LenT - I didn't say alligators or similar products are bad, I just pointed out that not only they don't work 100% of the time, but as well you must replace them as soon as you hit the kerb. That is not something I have invented but the instructions of the product. £180 for 4 = £45 per wheel. Whereas wheel refurbishment is £50-90 depending on size, quality and the place you living... and how greedy you local wheel refurbishment shop is or how much clientele they have. Basically, having rim protectors reduces your repair costs by 30-50%. On top of that I actually don't like how they look (my personal thing) and I consider them as equivalent of support wheels on kids bicycles (basically indication you could not feel the corners of your car). They kind of suits some cars- like is you have pin Lamborghini and matching colour rim bands that is kind of style of the car, but this is more of exception. Scratches from the kerb isn't "damaged aluminium" - just lick of filler and it will be gone. Considering some of the wheels I have refurbished in the past your your "damage" is literally joke - just a scratch. ...and you are clearly not waiting to hear back from Lexus Poole as it is little bit late for their recommendations!😁But good effort there... + I guess the service guy is having a laugh as you basically asking how to refurbish a wheel. What you expect them to say? "Take it to wheel refurb place". Well I guess they can recommend the place they use as they should be using one frequently. But considering how far you have gone by yourself... again it is kind of too late for the professional job. I think you really stressing out far too much about the thing which is literally frequent occurrence (well maybe for you it isn't, but generally it happens to million people every day). As you have done it all now, it is kind of too late, but sadly I feel like you have wasted a lot of effort. Any wheel refurbishment place and considering how small the damage was - even mobile repair vans would have easily done the job for you in a matter of minutes. Call me pessimist, but after you going to spray it you still going to need to eventually get it fixed by professional shop and it isn't even that expensive ~ tank of fuel. Lexus wheels have no colour codes, but most reasonable wheel refurb places matches the colour close enough. Obviously, if you know the shop used by dealership then maybe that is advantage... although I feel it could be "double-edged sword" - you see... dealerships will always refurb the wheels in the cheapest possible way, because they literally do hundreds of them. What I am saying - place which dealership uses are likely to know how to match wheels closest to Lexus colour, but they work quality might not be the best quality.

Where is she living now?

A little more than JUST a paint job, surely? The surface looks damaged and will surely need rubbing down and blending in before it can be repainted – two different coats, remember. And it would have to be done carefully to avoid any change in the rim profile – depending on how concerned the owner is to remove all traces of the encounter. I suspect that two wheels done to that standard will cost more than fitting a set of Alloygators – which would have prevented that damage in the first place. I hasten to add that I think all the concerns expressed about this product are perfectly valid. But I didn’t choose to fit them on a whim. Like many things in Life, it’s a matter of assessing reward v risk. While the scenario that Linas posits is possible, is it a probable risk? How does it compare, for example, with the inherent risk of ‘travelling at motorway speeds of 70MPH+’ when statistically your chances of being involved in an accident are greatly diminished at 60mph, or 50mph? How often do you consider the risk of a tyre blow out? It’s certainly possible, because it happened to friends of ours in their newish BMW. But we don’t consider it very probable, do we? This product has now been sold in over 50 countries for more than a decade. I’ve only come across a handful of claims that rims have separated from wheels. On examination these often turn out to be DIY jobs or fitting to unsuitable alloys. Frankly, an impact that might render the Alloygator likely to leave the rim would probably also leave the wheel unusable in the first place. It’s also worth mentioning that this product has been approved by testing at MIRA and by the German TUV organisation. Another claim is that water and grit gets under the plastic and damages the alloy surface. Well apart from raising the question of whether the surface was already damaged and the Alloygator used to conceal that fact, this is by definition cosmetic surface damage and very easily rectified. Or even hidden under a new Alloygator! And it’s surely preferable to having to pay for repairs to seriously damaged alloy rims. From personal experience I can confirm that everyday scuffing, as illustrated by the OP, is not going to remove an Alloygator. That’s because this is a rubbing action when a moving wheel contacts a vertical surface, such as a kerb. Lifting the Alloygator away from the rim requires a different impact, such as a vertical force applied to the side of the plastic – as when the wheel drops off a kerb and the edge of it hits the side face of the plastic rim. But again this is very obvious damage. Deflating the tyre and the use of a soft faced mallet is generally enough to replace the Alloygator back on the rim. I see that another criticism is that ‘they look awful once they’ve contacted the kerb’. Well, that’s one reason why I chose black – and scuffs on the plastic can be smoothed out anyway. And remember, every scuff represents more serious alloy rim damage that has been prevented. And as the OPs pics clearly demonstrate, that will surely look worse! To put the choice of ‘to fit or not to fit’ another way: Some people are refusing the Covid-19 vaccines on the grounds that they may have side effects. Well, in some people they do. But not having the vaccine can have even more unpleasant side effects. As it happens, I don't ever remember curbing a wheel until I got the Lexus and had my first experience of low profile tyres and alloys. And if you can be sure that you'll never do it then save your money - you'll never need any rim protection. So as my folks used to say ‘you pays yer money and you makes yer choice!’. PS: I realise this has become a long post. My apologies!

Most Lexus dealers dont have an onsite body shop so outsource. I know Lexus Stockport/Bolton have their own bodyshop they use but everyone else sends the wheels elsewhere. Ask the dealer first who they use. Also worth checking facebook/instagram for companies and their work. I had a smart repair done on the Jag diamond cut wheels for £55 a wheel all inclusive so £180 to repair that is taking the royal mickey. Additionally, dont believe the alloygator hype. They do have a tendency to fling off and also, they look awful once theyve contacted a kerb as well.

It might also be worth contacting your local dealership and asking which body repair shop they use. I was directed to a local place called 'LoveMyCar' they had all the Lexus colour codes and did a great job on my wheels.

Keeping it rather than buying a new one, especially at that mileage, is a good choice.

I'm a time-served electrician, having done my apprenticeship in a factory. When the factory closed down I got a job on what was then known as Post Office Telephones and became a telephone engineer for many years. After a back injury saw me medically retired, I went self-employed doing computer repairs, until I retired last year. All my working life has been spent in electrical/electronics maintenance - about 47 years of diagnosing and tracing faults in one form or another. It doesn't always make sense to members of the public, especially if they aren't very 'tech-savvy', but it's nigh-on impossible to trace a fault if it's not present at the time of inspection. Even a 'really real special specialist' will struggle to find a fault if it's not there. We have to believe what our test gear is telling us and what our eyes and ears are telling us, and if all those are telling us that everything is alright then the job sheet gets 'NFF' or 'No Fault Found'.

Sorry, I have been busy for a while, I was hoping to get round to this post. I have to question as to why any car - brand new, still under original manufacturer warranty (3 years) only gets its first service from a dealer and then the remainder independant! Out of warranty I understand and military/service vehicles where they get serviced on site (including royal mail fleet) I also understand. But Joe public, first three years, I don't personally like. Discs and pads are the big wear and tear expense, crica of £1600 from the dealer, so as this was done 1000 miles ago, no need to be concerned. Tyres and service are the next expense wear and tear wise. You say that tyres are good but are awaiting service invoices. The 60k (6 year) is the big one, circa of £900 (spark plug fitting) if this service hasn't been done then take that into consideration. Warranty; as members here have already suggested, it is well worthy. In the grand scheme of things Lexus are well built, so in turn offer confidence in reliability however, like anything mechanical, things go snap, crackle and pop. The warranty is a great product and is by far more superior to that of any other warranty on the UK market. As the guys have said here, 18k - no such thing, 30k+ too high. 26-27k is where I would be sticking my money. 2 years ago a few 2015 models with 40ish on the clock creeped down to 26k but since then they seem to have just halted and in fact one was at Lexus Wolverhampton late last year, 2015, 30ish on the clock up for 27k, it was on the site for around 3 hours before it sold. On the same token, there are a small number of RCFs that for a short while now have remained on the trader and a few other places. Buyers seem to be a little scarce but sellers seem to be happy to hold out. So it all comes down to your budget and eagerness. If the 60k/6 year is due I personally would be gunning for 25k, 26k if you really like the spec. If the service history is as it should be and the 60k is done then it is a 26-27k car. But just to add: sub 30k RCFs seem to be a rare sight, even in their older age, mileages really seem to be low so in turn possibly have helped values. This may help you.... https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/11265184?cId=11126159&cId=11074908&cId=11248432&cId=11172093&cId=11063817&cId=11269178&cId=11255393&cId=11244558&cId=11265184&cId=11010276&cId=11010317&cId=11020193 Best of luck, they are great cars, but just as you have done, prior to commitment certainly bombard this forum with your questions. There is an abundance of knowledge and opinions.

Ian its the best CVT out there and the touchpad like you say you soon get used to it.

As mentioned, don't be shy give us some details 😉 there is a chance someone either knows the car, or has previously owned it! Also helps weed out any dodge ones that may exist 🙂 and also don't be afraid to ask any burning questions that may be on your mind, the forum in general is a chill place and people are out to help each other 😄 Re-iterating some above points, service history should be on point, otherwise yes something is a miss, there was an old fuel pump recall that you might just wanna check was done to the car by Lexus, tyre tread depth otherwise you are looking at some instand cash splurge to replace, discs and pads are only mega expensive if genuine Lexus, there are OEM suppliers outside of Lexus that can save you some serious monies. Maybe see if you can arrange an inspection as it isn't coming from a dealer. Definitely echo the 'know your options' as a lot of sellers tend not to have a clue about what are options and what are standard. You can get the list from Lexus themselves if you get the reg to them. Hopefully all will go swimmingly and you'll be in the club in no time 😉