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  1. 11 points
    I've been meaning to do this for ages. I ordered some new polishing pads for my DA machine, and Maguire's compound, polish and wax. Still hard work, and the photos don't do it justice but it certainly sparkles for a 17 year old. Next week I'll be fitting the newly acquired wheels when the tyres arrive so I'll post some more photos then.
  2. 9 points
    I've done one of these for the last couple of years so thought I may as well add something again. Here's a link to last year's which I think has one to the first if you are so inclined. https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/118838-lexus-to-tesla-2-years-on/?tab=comments#comment-1083268 Anyway I've now done 42,500 miles in 3 years 3 months. The acid question is am I still a happy owner and pleased I took the plunge? A definite Yes. Following the same format as before: Reliability Nothing bad of any consequence. I had a DRL LED fail and the passenger door mirror struggled to open sometimes. Both were repaired under warranty with a mobile mechanic Tesla call Rangers coming to my home and sorting both out. Very painless. Range & Battery Degradation My range is the same as before, so a long trip in the summer and 250/260 isn't a problem but range does suffer in the winter and 200 is nearer the max. According to the battery degradation report I can run from the 3rd party software that "talks" to the car I've lost about 4% of the battery capacity. None of this really matters unless I do a long drive and the Tesla network of Superchargers cover most of the country very well. The public charging network is slowly growing, without doubt the biggest problem is getting wayleave permission to lay cables. I suffer bladder anxiety much more than range anxiety! Servicing & Insurance Costs Tesla were rightly criticised for requiring an annual / 12.5k service and charging an arm and a leg for it. They've done a complete about face and the recommended servicing schedule is now 2 years with air filter and brake fluid type checks being all that's needed. Servicing and warranty work is all booked via the app and communications can be problematic. My insurance this year was cheaper than last and are no different to what I used to pay for the Lexus. Software Updates These are still a regular feature and arrive approx. every month or so. Sometimes they deliver new functionality and sometimes just bug fixes. The Autopilot software continues to evolve and improve but as for "full self driving" - not a chance. As with any computer the older ones slow down and newer one have greater capacity. It's no different with the Tesla and I have the first generation of the media control unit (MCU1). This means my car doesn't benefit from some of the latest improvements, e.g. all 8 camera now operate as a dashcam. That said, no other car that I've ever owned has got better the longer I've owned it. This one does. Downsides to Ownership Parts supply is still patchy and although the staff are very helpful the communications can be awful. It's not the staff, it's the systems or lack of that are the problem. You have to go in with your eyes open and understand you are buying something at the cutting edge. The biggest mistake, albeit an understandable one is "I've spent £60k/£100k or whatever" and there wasn't even a proper unveil when I picked the car up." Tesla aren't pretending it's a premium car but will have to up their game when the competition eventually arrives. The reality is the car isn't of Lexus build quality, but it's certainly "good enough" and the driving experience etc makes up for the odd panel gap that's not consistent. Competition Sadly still lacking and nothing comes close IMO. The Porsche Taycan is ridiculously priced, less range, mostly slower, no charging network (yet), no comparable technology. It has much better build quality and the badge - if that floats your boat. The Jag I Pace and the Audi E Tron are aero dynamic bricks with range to match, many have suffered with software problems and until the public charging network improves aren't IMO good enough for long journeys. That makes them very expensive "second" cars but are well built and have more of a premium feel to them. Lots of buttons! Driving & Overall Ownership Experience The electric drivetrain is so much fun. Near silent and leisurely as you like, or near silent and will slaughter pretty much anything else on the road. You choose where you want to be between those two points. I only have to touch the brake pedal if I want to come to a complete stop, deceleration is handled by the regeneration and controlled by my right foot. Fuel is cheap as chips and I never have to think about a petrol station. Being environmentally friendly is a bonus, I didn't buy the car for that reason. The autopilot software is pretty good if you understand its' limitations and don't believe Elon Musk when he says Full Self Driving is round the corner. If this helps anyone that's great and happy to expand on any point or answer questions.
  3. 6 points
    I thought it wise to start a new topic rather than mix it up on my seat repair thread. As I previously mentioned I have for some time had a new set of NGK iridium spark plugs sat on my garage shelf. This and the fact that I now have more spare time available spurred me into action to get the job done. Both the leads and plugs were replaced around 8 years ago ( in that time I have probably clocked up 15,000 miles) so it should be a relatively simple case of plug leads off, old plug out, new plug in and plug cap back on. Although the plug caps were tight they came off after a bit of twisting to break the seal until I got to cylinder 1 when the wire parted company with the cap. Unfortunately this happened twice more on cylinders 8 and 6 on the other bank. Now resigned to the fact I was going to require another new lead set I then tried to remove the plugs but found that due to the caps remaining on the plugs from the broken leads the socket would now not go over the plug far enough to extract it. Due to the position of the plugs deep down the tubes of the valve cover there was not way a standard pair of snipe nose pliers was going to grab the caps so I decided to order a very narrow pair and also a pair of surgical clamps. Next was a new set of plug leads. Usual sources available and the cheapest set of quality NGK ones were £116.00 from the bay. I suddenly remembered Rockauto in the USA so took a look, £60.00 for the very same leads. Knowing the distributor caps and rotor arms were the original ones I also looked them up and was amazed to find the prices for Bosch branded were a fraction of UK ones so I added these to my order. Distributor cap UK £40.00 USA $13.99, Rotor Arm UK £21.00 USA $4.80 Total cost was £114.00 this included pre paid VAT and shipping! The only downside was the delivery time quoted as being between 29/05 and 02/06 from when the order was placed last Thursday. I needn’t have worried they arrived around 30 minutes ago by DHL !!! 😀 Bosch parts have “Made in Japan” stamped on them and the leads are thicker like the OEM ones even down to the protective white plastic spiral on them. Unfortunately the pliers and clamp ordered the same day from UK suppliers are nowhere to be seen but at least I can do most of the job today.
  4. 6 points
    These are the wheels I bought from a new member a couple of weeks ago. After a refurb I treated them to a new set of Avon tyres. Soo much quieter than with the Bridgestones. The same size wheels, 17"
  5. 6 points
    If you follow the instructions then, as @whiteman says, the results should be good. I bought a similar kit, albeit from another supplier, when I restored a Mercedes-Benz 420SEC 3 years ago, and below are the before and after shots. I used the supplied filler paste on the hole in the armrest and the renovation cream was mixed by the supplier to match the correct shade. It's a very rewarding job, but don't rush it. Good luck!
  6. 6 points
    Looks to me like you have the wrong attitude for this club and owning a Lexus Ls 400 is not a given for being a contributor to this forum . As a lesson in manners and respect advised by a couple of members who have been contributing solid viable information for many years seems to be going over your head perhaps a different venue for your aggressive style is awaiting ,please head off there as we do not care for your input.
  7. 6 points
    Keep what you have Martin.Drive it into the ground and watch the mugs all around you.
  8. 5 points
    Update. The surgical clamps arrived today so i could crack on and get the job finished, managed to get them on the metal remains of the plug cap, clamp them shut and pull them off. Got the dizzy caps and rotor arms in yesterday, bolts on the lower belt covers are an absolute pain. Routed all the new leads, you can immediately see the difference in quality to the crap ones I did have on and they slot onto the plugs with a reassuring click. Got most of the plastics back on, coolant back in and vacuum pipes refitted. Started immediately, smoother idle and much more responsive on the test drive. Bit more to fit back but it’s moving again.
  9. 5 points
    I found it on Youtube. Whilst it references an IS250 and the previous gen, it still works great on the gen 3 as well:
  10. 5 points
  11. 5 points
    It looks like that window needs resetting for one touch to work again. Ignition on, close the window by continually holding the button, when it reaches the top hold for a few more seconds, you may hear a quiet click. Then open the window fully using the same process again holding the it down for a few seconds, I generally count to 5. What you’ve done is “taught” the motor the operating perimeters, it should now work properly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 5 points
    Herbie - - - I am sorry - - - I cannot help with any reasonable information on this - - - But will this help?
  13. 4 points
    If things can be easy or awkward, Murphy's Law will always come into play and make things as awkward as possible; or so I've often found anyway. Thinking that if a jump start is ever going to be needed, it will happen on a cold, wet, windy night and getting to either the battery in the boot or the dedicated 'more convenient' jump start terminal in the engine bay fuse box is not going to be easy no matter which one I go for. So, some of you may remember that some time ago I installed a more convenient 'jump start socket' in the boot: Silly Billy that I am, I hadn't realised at the time that if the battery is flat then the tailgate can't be opened other than by clambering over the back seats to get at the manual release lever. So, spurred on by @Richie_W's recent posting I decided to leave that socket in situ for something else but also to fit another socket that I can use to jump start the car, in a better location. The centre console of the RX has an upper and a lower 'level' to it. The lower level is open and already has a 12V power socket factory installed but it's not energised until the car is either in ACC or READY mode, so that was no good for this purpose. However, it does lend itself to connecting a USB voltmeter in parallel so I did this a while ago and it's great for charging my phone and as an indication of the battery voltage. Having already made up a jump lead for use in the back I decided to use the same sort of socket again at the front, a Neutrik NL2MD loudspeaker connector that's rated at 30A. I soldered a couple of cables on the terminals and terminated the other ends with male bullet connectors. Using a step drill made an easy job of cutting the hole for the socket. The job isn't finished yet because I have to get cables from here into the engine bay fuse box. Behind the glove box there's a big rubber grommet taking the existing wiring loom through the bulkhead and that's where my route out will be. I can't do it at the moment due to a bit of an ear infection. Luckily there's no pain but when I lie down or get my head in awkward positions like I would have to for this job, the whole world begins to rapidly spin round and I get to feeling rather puky, so I'll have to wait for this to clear up before I can do the other side of the job. However, this is what the finished job will look like and what it'll allow me to do (I've kept the original leads that came with this battery pack so that I can use it to help others if necessary but you'll see the lead I made up for my 'more convenient' jump starting, if or when needed):
  14. 4 points
    Well with another 5 weeks on standby shifts and little in the way of call outs I today stripped the front passenger seat base down as the leather has split so needs a new panel fitting. Removal of the complete seat took around 10 minutes, 4 bolts and one electrical multi plug. It took me around 90 minutes with lots of how to reassemble photographs taken during the strip down. As usual with Lexus it all came to pieces without too much drama, the backrest was separated with just 4 bolts and unleashing of part of the electrical loom. The biggest job was removing all the fixing rings that secure the leather cover to the foam base, due to the lack of working space and their design ( like small key rings) I cut them out. Having studied the process refitting will be done with “Hog Rings” which with the special pliers are on order. Just got to get it sent off now to the upholsterer, once repaired I will then hopefully put it all back together, clean it and dye it. I did look into new covers from Toyota but at nearly $1000.00 each for the base cover only I spluttered and moved on! The spring set up is amazing as shown in the last picture, the item circled is one of the hog springs holding things together.
  15. 4 points
    I am now a very happy bunny. Turns out I picked a really good storage company. They read up on it before receiving the car, and have been doing the correct routine monthly!
  16. 4 points
    Hi, I have a 2016 RX450h and, concerned about cat thefts in our area, I challenged the local dealer's service manager about Lexus' response. The information I got in reply , over a series of questions and answers was: 1. The Gen 4 RX primary cats are in the engine bay and hence not that accessible for theft. 2. There is a secondary Cooler cat device located under the floor of the drivers seat which is used for "advanced engine heating" what ever that is. 3. Lexus "are unaware of the RX450h being targeted at present which is due to the Cat containing less precious metal than the RX400h. With this in mind, there is currently no locking device in development " This was in March this year so if your dealer was now offering a fix, perhaps the position has changed. Does anyone else know any different?
  17. 4 points
    Or to avoid any new fangled dance music type thing I would consider a vinyl wrap 🎶🎶🎶😎
  18. 4 points
    Ok... Getting errors uploading more than 1 photo at moment but.... So the time has come to part ways with my beloved Lexus ISF. I have got a decent (IMO) part ex price for her but seeing as the garage I am buying my new car from isn't allowed to officially open until 01/06 then I would like to offer her for sale to an enthusiast as Honda (FK8 Type R incoming) had never heard of an ISF... How may times have we heard that.... I have not been shy about taking her around the Nurburgring. I can honestly say she has never missed a beat in the 3 times she has visited under my ownership. She has never let me down in the 4 and a bit years I have owned her and I know it's a cliche but I always let her warm up before pushing on. So... Good bits 94k miles (low for age) Full Lexus Service History + couple of independent oil changes completed by friends garage. All stamped and receipts for all parts. Last serviced by Lexus at 90k miles Lexus extended warranty until 22/09/20. Roadside assistance extended until 22/12/20 due to Covid-19 MOT - 02/12/20 Brakes/Discs all good. Front tyres 5mm and rear tyres approx. 3mm - Michelin Pilot Sport 4'S' tyres all round in wider size Airbag recall completed Bad bits... I am the 6th owner (albeit for last 4 and a bit years) Stone chips on front bumper along with a scuff (Will be shown in pics) Stone chip on front wing (Will be shown in pics) Wear to drivers seat bolster (Will be shown in pics) Small tears in rear seats from ISOFIX seat fitting 😞 (Will be shown in pics) Scuff on inside of rear passenger door (shown in pics) Mods... Fox Cat back exhaust (original available as well but no fake exhaust tips) HPS Intake Pipe (original included) Toms Drop in Panel filter (original included) RR Racing USRS bushes fitted (originals can be included but are sat on my mechanics shelf) Ferodo DS2500 brake pads at front (Amazing brake pads) Stickers can be included at no extra cost 😉 Pricing to take into account the "Bad bits". I have probably forgotten something so feel free to PM me for more details/questions/contact number/live video presentation and so on. Price - 11k ONO. No time wasters or silly offers please. This will be going regardless on 01/06 in theory 🙂
  19. 4 points
    Since lockdown, my good lady has decided that there a lot of 'little jobs' around the house that need doing. I will get to the interior of the car when I get 'time off for good behaviour'. 😯
  20. 4 points
    Would you consider aftermarket? Some brands like Bola do some fairly period designs. I put mine on a set of 18s and I think it looks the part. Not everybody likes the aftermarket look though... Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  21. 4 points
    I also got chance to make my own external wastegate dump tube. Was pretty straight forward just measured, cut and offered it up until it fit. Also managed to do a slash cut on the end of the pipe, that was pretty tricky to do using a grinder! Another thing i managed to get done was the rear light LED conversion. Now i originally started this 2yrs ago early on in this build thread 🤣, got side tracked and didnt finish it but now was perfect chance to do it. I also decided to do the US rear brake light conversion so the fog lights also light up with the brake lights. I had to install diodes so that when the fog lights are switched on it doesnt light up all the brake lights now the wiring is joined. 1 thing i didnt want to do was have the fog lights light up with the side lights as i wanted those LED rings to stand out on there own. Im just waiting on some pulse width modulating boxes to dim them down a little as they are as bright as the brake lights at the moment, also the PWM boxes will allow me to use the LED rings as a brake light aswell as a side light!
  22. 4 points
    Hi, guys. Today I installed an Android Head unit in my Lexus RCF. It wasn’t easy, but all’s well after 6 hours of work. Everything works well. It’s the latest version Android 9.0 with 4GB RAM and a 64 GB hard disk. IMG_2702.MOV
  23. 4 points
    Very rarely if ever - he just does car top trumps and spec sheet reviews. His reviewing style would suit fridge freezers better.
  24. 4 points
    While been at home more often I have kept the car cleaner than normal. I buy all my cleaning and detailing products from The Clay Cloth Company.. I foamed the car with Tenzi snow foam and give it a rinse off. Then it was time for the shampoo which was Killerwax SIO2 which is a ceramic based wash, dried it with a huge drying cloth then polished with Killerwaxx Northern Lights paste, the results speak for them selves, I finished off with some ceramic detailing spray Killerwaxx SIO2 ceramic spray... well I have attached the pics and hopefully you will appreciate my results, since finding the https://www.theclayclothcompany.co.uk/ I wont go anywhere else now, all there stuff is so easy to apply and even easier to remove. This small company started in 2013 and I think we need to help businesses to keep going in the present situation... before anyone asks I don't own it lol...I just think there products across the range speak for themselves.. they do everything you want and more for getting your car clean.... https://www.theclayclothcompany.co.uk/
  25. 4 points
    I'm puzzled. You didn't buy the car from a Lexus Dealership and yet you are talking about Lexus declining a warranty claim for the light. A Lexus Approved used car warranty is of 12 months duration normally. Has your car got a third party or dealer warranty? Love to know the answer.
  26. 4 points
    That`s just fine. Dealers are required under Law to be responsible for any significant problem which arises within the first 6 months of ownership.This is called the Statutory Warranty. The 3 month warranty that came with the car is wholly irrelevant and of no consequence whatsoever. If you have not done so Howard, then I recommend that you read the reviews of Avalon Autos here.https://www.cardealerreviews.co.uk/dealership/avalon-autos-chesterfield-derbyshire-england When you have done so you will realise that they are a mixed bag but on the whole largely satisfactory. Then you have to contact Avalon in writing (email will do fine as you will retain a copy of what you send) to explain to them in detail your concerns about the car and what you expect them to do about it. If the reviews you have read are to be believed,they will act reasonably as they wish you to be a satisfied customer and give them a positive review. So, what are the problems which you need to have addressed? From your initial post I conclude that that; 1. You have water entering the vehicle and causing damage to one of your headlamps? 2. You have reason to believe that error messages/ codes have been deleted (which is why Lexus Liverpool/Chester/ Stockport or Bolton ?) want you drive 500 miles ,so that they can read the codes which may then appear. 3. Anything else Howard ? My advice is that you ask your Lexus Dealer as soon as possible to carry out an examination of the vehicle and provide in writing their observations to you. You may have to drive 500 miles promptly in order for them to be able to perform the testing---but you have the balance of 6 months available so you do not have to drive the 500 miles immediately. Having received the written report from Lexus you then submit it to Avalon Autos with a request that they put your RX into the condition it should have been in when sold to you. They must bear the cost of rectification. Should they be unwilling, you will return the car to them and receive your money back or you will submit a claim against them via the small claims track of the Courts. There is much for you to consider,but all is not lost.Time is on your side but you must not delay matters. Please keep us all informed of your progress. Regards John
  27. 4 points
    Be aware Les as Mercury and Venus are moving ever closer together and on 24th of May will be adjacent. Just saying, old buddy.
  28. 4 points
    Under no circumstances use a gel battery. The problem with gel batteries is the very limited charge rate. All lead acid batteries be they flooded, liquid AGM, or gel AGM form gas bubbles on the plates if charged quickly or are continued to charge when already fully charged. With the flooded, and liquid AGM batteries the bubbles just float to the surface. With gel AGM batteries the bubbles cannot float in the gel, and are permanently trapped against the cell plates reducing the area of plate in contact with the acid. In turn the rest of the area of the plate carries more current making that more susceptible to gassing with the same problem. These bubbles are very difficult to remove. The only way being to put the battery into a high vacuum so that the bubbles expand, and have a better chance of forcing themselves upwards through the gel. Even this is not 100% effective. The hybrid DC to DC converter that charges the 12 volt battery can, and does charge at far higher rates than gel batteries are designed for. Used in the right circumstances gel batteries have a long life, and are particularly suited to standby use or use in very cold conditions, but are not suitable for automotive applications. John.
  29. 4 points
    OK, I just rang the company concerned and directly asked the question. After she stopped laughing, she gave a resounding NO! I have not been refused insurance and I do not have to declare such. They have just not been able to offer cover based on my circumstances. A huge relief. She said her little laugh was because I sounded so worried about nothing. It does show how confusing the entire field is though.
  30. 4 points
    And you are not allowed back until June young man !
  31. 4 points
    Every day's a school day
  32. 4 points
    Thanks Collin. After much researching, and confirmed by your picture the pulley uses two 6203RS bearings that are readily available at £2 each depending on how many you buy " this can go down to 85 pence each for ten bearings. This makes a saving on the OEM part of over £50, and on the aftermarket versions of between £14 & £30. If you look closely at your picture 6203RS is imprinted on the rubber seal, and from my research there are two bearings pressed into the pulley, and a metal tube pressed into the bearing bores. The bearings seem to be the same on most Lexus models, and when used to tension the belt internally on the belts with ridged pulleys use two bearings. Where external plain idler pulleys are used on the back of the belt they take only one bearing. I have ordered four bearings delivered for £5.01 to give me spares for the future. For reference the tensioner bolt is a lefthand thread while idler pulley bolts are normal righthand thread. John
  33. 4 points
    I did a quick test today to make sure my caliper slide pins were running freely. If you follow this quick guide there's no need for any stripping of the brakes as long as you don't find one that's seized. You only need to remove each wheel. All you'll need is a jack, obviously, and a pry bar or long flat bladed screwdriver and or, a clamp. Use the pry bar, screwdriver or clamp to compress the brake caliper until it moves toward the offside of the hub, or toward you, then, if the pins are running freely you'll be able to grab the caliper and check that it's moving freely.
  34. 4 points
    I was talking to a furloughed employee the other day. He's a bit of a motoring enthusiast as we all are but currently bored out of his mind. The conversation turned to machine polishing, I haven't got the patience but he's and avid detailer. He offered to do the GS and after a bit of arm twisting on me came up to work yesterday. I left him to it for about 4 hours and I have to say the finish is absolutely outstanding. The metallic flake is a revelation. Unfortunately I don't think the pictures do it justice but the car looks superb!
  35. 3 points
    There you are VL. Just like in thecowboys ... I taught you how to draw ...and then you gunned me down !!!!!! looking about 2 months. In no rush ... have the S2000 to play with while I can still manage to get into it !!!!!!
  36. 3 points
    Hello Neil, welcome to the LOC, and please accept my condolences on the loss of your Dad. It seems a little strange that a garage with the correct diagnostic equipment didn’t find any fault codes which would help pinpoint the problem. The electronic throttle body is termed “Drive by wire” so there is no physical throttle cable between the pedal and the throttle body. Instead there is a pedal position sensor which detects the position of the pedal, a throttle position sensor on the throttle body which senses the position of the throttle butterfly, a motor to operate the butterfly and a computer between the 2 which performs communication and controls operation. Without any diagnostic codes finding the cause of your problem is not as easy but I would start at the accelerator pedal sensor which is fairly easy to access and check. Look to make sure it is firmly attached to the support bracket, it is plugged in firmly to the loom and the loom is undamaged. The picture below should help you find it, N3 is the sensor in question.
  37. 3 points
    It's a fuse block. There are the two main 12v vehicle fuseable links (140 Amps and 60 Amps) plus the little orange 7.5 Amp fuse which is the supply for the DC to DC converter within the hybrid inverter. There is no temperature sensor there, it is at the base of the battery compartment.
  38. 3 points
    Some people may not have been around long enough to know what a Haylands car means. Peter is an obsessive and talented fixer, so I imagine that everything normal people might find "acceptable" has been transformed into first-class. I would buy it sight unseen had I not made my big purchase last year. Jon
  39. 3 points
    It's not quite what I had in mind, but I have used an old vacuum cleaner extension hose to duct one of the two footwell outlets under the driver's seat into the seat back void. It's a flexible hose so moves with the seat. There are a few cables to be aware of when pushing the hose through the gap between the seat and seat cover at the back but otherwise it slots in without any drama. The car has been sat baking in the sun all afternoon. Seat temperature was about 30c after I got the sun off it with a silver windscreen shade thing. I had the AC on Lo which recirculated, doors and windows closed, still with a lot of residual heat in the car. I had my right hand measuring the temperature of the same point on the seat, my hand resting on the seat to minimise any movement. My left hand holding my phone (excuse the closeups while changing CC mode). With the climate control on Auto Mode, AC On, S-Flow off and temp set to Lo, all air was coming from the face vents, directed up to the roof. No air hitting the seat directly. I measured a fairly steady 28c and turning on the ventilated seat to 3 it was still steady at 28c. Then I set the air mode to face + floor, still Lo and still AC On. The temperature of the seat back started dropping. Set it back to 'auto' mode, still Lo and still AC On. All air is now from the face vents only. The seat back temperature stopped dropping and stayed steady, rising slightly. Then I set the air mode to face + floor, still Lo and still AC On. The temperature of the seat back started dropping. So it seems that ducting into the seat back works well. I'll be out for a couple of hours on Saturday so that will be the test. Video of testing: Start with seat fans on full, no air to floor 0:50 - set mode to face + floor 2:15 - back to auto (face only) 3:45 - back to face + floor
  40. 3 points
    As the title says, about 2yrs ago me and my son bought this car very cheap as it was in a sorry state, the picture when we got it doesn't look too bad but its had some work done to it to get it where it is today, not much money tho as most was cosmetic. It was going to be used as a drift car but persuaded my son it was too good for that. First job was the water leak which I knew was the radiator so that was replaced to cure that problem. The previous owner had kept topping up with water so the whole system is just full of rusty water, I have managed to sort that out but a heater matrix is still needed as only the drivers side gets hot, its been flushed many times and still the same. The next job was to weld the cills up as they had the famous bubbles on them, that was sorted so the suspension was replaced as it was knocking on the front end, luckily the garage where my son works there was a second hand set taken off a customers car as he replaced with adjustable shocks. The wheels had to get replaced as they were off a gs300 and looked well out of place on this car, there is a picture with them on.. Next job was to clean the whole interior as a dog had been in the car ands wow it took some getting rid of the hairs and smell. next was to sort the bodywork out as it had many scratches and scuffs on both bumpers and mirror covers, so after spraying them and put back on it was given a full detail with Killerwaxx compounds and finished off with killerwaxx polishes and waxes, what an amazing job we did.. the pictures don't do it justice and it will be back on the road from June 1st with one happy 18yr old driving it around...this car nearly ended up scrapped but was saved … I've added a few pics and one was when it was forsale before we got it and one when we got it then the rest is the present day VID-20200419-WA0020.mp4
  41. 3 points
    Hi Nice looking car, just run in as these cars can do 200,000 no problem! If you would like to improve your seat look at this site for tips. Bob has put up a good explanation of how to do it. I have the same upholstery colour as you and I followed the steps listed, it looks like they are brand new! https://forum.lexusownersclub.com/threads/leather-seat-rejuvenation.13611/ Jack
  42. 3 points
    So it’s not just me then, I’m still working on call out but the phone hasn’t rung for weeks....might start ringing myself 😀 Hold on a minute I think I have a misfire on the lawnmower, just get the toolbox out and take a look.
  43. 3 points
    So I have sent the wheels for powder coat in a dark anthracite grey....and thought I would buy some new wheel nuts....click good old ebay I thought...but the choice is bewildering ...can anyone recommend some high quality wheel nuts without going to the dealers ?....or are genuine parts not too expensive ?....what taper do I need anyone ? I bought this 40.000 mile 2 owner 2007 350....The car is following my LS400 which I did 120.000 miles in .....Best Car I have ever owned.....then an LS460 which was a big big disappointment as mentioned on here at length back in 2010....anyway replaced that with a V8 Touareg Turbo Diesel.....{ because we got two dogs }....most amazing Torque I have ever experienced.....but the most unreliable car I have ever owned....and I've owned many British Leyland cars since the 1980's too.....Limp mode over and over...had to go after 12 months of frustration with the car and dealer.... Anyway....I'm rambling on....I bought this 350 because the engine has Roller Rockers......which I had on my Cooper S I once built.....plus Hydraulic tappets.....normal Torque Converter box ....and a cam chain....so that's the one I went for....because I like to do most of my own maintenance ....This car is very good indeed....very smooth...quiet and has fairly good steering...but brakes are again difficult to judge like the 460.....but that's about it....very pleased with it.... Sorry for long post....but gives you something to read perhaps in these strange times.
  44. 3 points
    Stop ar***g around Dave as we both have to get this thread back into orbit.
  45. 3 points
    It's when Mercury and Venus get close to Uranus that things get a bit twitchy!
  46. 3 points
    I had exact same problem about 18 months ago. My problem was that one of the " Rear link height control sensors" had corroded and became detached. My mechanic did some temporary welding repairs, but advised replacement of both units. Car returned to normal height after start up. Very difficult to source new units in UK, at the time. Had to get them from US. Cant remember total cost, but it was less than £100 including postage. Both were very easy to replace, with no major suspension work required.
  47. 3 points
  48. 3 points
    The bearings for the tensioner pulley arrived today so I decided to do this part of the coolant pump replacement. Only one lefthand "clockwise to undo" threaded bolt to undo, and the pulley was off. After pressing out the inner sleeve from the two old bearings then the bearings from the pulley I can now confirm that the 6203RS bearings are the correct ones to use. The old bearings although having no play in them were obviously past there best at circa 145,000 miles sounding very dry when spun. The new bearings when fitted in comparison as expected were very smooth, and silent in operation. Total cost of bearings £2-50 so quite a saving on Lexus pulley prices. I have yet to remove the coolant pump "a job for tomorrow", but the pulley on the pump has a small amount of side play, but know sign of leakage. This pump was identified by Lexus main dealer as needing changing 50,000 miles ago. I have fresh Toyota SLLC coolant ready to go in after fitting the pump. John.
  49. 3 points
    I've been putting my car into Ready mode weekly over the last few weeks and I've learnt the following points from watching what it does. First, you can rev the engine while in Park - at first I thought you couldn't do this but you can. But I think charging stops when you do this. At least the energy monitor shows charging when the engine is "idling" (ie around 1,100 rpm) but the charging stops when you rev the engine above idle speed. I don't know why it does this - maybe to protect motor-generator 1 (MG1) from excess speed while generating. (As royoftherovers says, it never charges when you're in Neutral.) Second, I've now grasped that the 12v battery is being charged.whenever the car is in the Ready state, whether the engine is running or not. The charging power (around 14.4V) comes from the hybrid battery via the inverter, whether the engine is running or not. What I've seen in recent days is that it takes around 20 minutes or more without the engine running for the hybrid battery to drop from three bars to two bars while doing little more than charging the 12v battery and playing the radio (climate control off, everything else off). It will sit quite happily at two bars for quite a while before the engine starts up again to begin charging the hybrid battery. Its natural level in this situation seems to range from two to three bars, with the engine stopping at three bars and restarting at two bars. As has been said elsewhere, this represents around 50-55% real charge level, which is probably the target range set by the computer. If for some reason, you do want to put a higher charge in the high voltage battery than around three bars (perhaps if it's going to be stored for six months, for example) then paradoxically, it will probably charge more efficiently (though not necessarily more quickly) by leaving the car standing rather than going for a drive. With the car stationary and the engine idling, MG1 spins at around 4,000 rpm. But if you drive the car at town speeds MG1 (which charges the high voltage battery) will spin more slowly,until it stops altogether and then starts to spin in the reverse direction, then speeding up again. Unless you actually want to go for a drive, it's probably easier and will use less petrol if you choose a cold day (or night), put the car in ready and turn on the climate control to a warm temperature. The engine will then run to warm up the cabin and spare energy from the engine will be stored in the battery. I've got the hybrid battery up to six bars by keeping the heat on when the weather is cold but without touching the accelerator, which seems to stop the charging. But from what I've read, there's no real need to get the high voltage battery up to a higher level of charge if the car will be unused for only a month or so. The 12volt battery is another matter, of course.
  50. 3 points
    Thanks for the replies. I have tried this and the engine does fire up when the accelerator is pressed albeit not like an ordinary car where you can rev up to high revs and down. There does seem to be some limit to how fast the engine will rev up to. I will probably take a decent run to charge the hybrid barreries despite the lockdown. My question was just out of interest though.




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