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It is recommended that the engine ECU is reset after any engine performance modifications have been made to the vehicle, including using a higher octane fuel, to accelerate the learning of any new parameters. Resetting the ECU will also clear any stored error codes, however if you have a fault with your vehicle it is advisable that these codes are retrieved rather than wiped as they may help in diagnosing the problem. Make sure the ignition is turned off Remove the engine bay fuse box cover Remove the 20Amp/25Amp EFI fuse Remove the 15Amp ETCS fuse Wait 30 seconds Re-insert the two fuses Install the fuse box cover It is also possible to reset the engine ECU by removing the battery. Please note that this method will also reset any memory settings such as radio presets, trip mileage, clock etc. For hybrid models please seek further information

I posted this a while back but I forgot to post in this section. I've added a few photos at the bottom as well. First off, I am not a mechanic so my terminology may annoy some of you! I did this as i was getting a lack of power at about 2500revs mainly in higher gears. It has improved dramatically. Fuel efficiency seems to have improved but only slightly so I can't say for sure. For this guide, I refer to right and left as you stand at the front of the vehicle looking into the engine. I know this is not the norm so apologies if confusing. Front refers to the front of the car as standard. Also, the elec. connectors are the biggest pain in the &%$£. Trying to squeeze the clip and pull at the same time is so difficult as they are usually well stuck in place being nine years old! Don’t give up! Job time – 10 hours over two days (I didn’t have a guide so hopefully you will do it faster – it would take me about 6 hours if I did it again) Set up tools, bench, laptop, etc. (1 hour) Disassembly (5 hours) Cleaning (2 hours) Reassembly (2 hours) Basic tools are required but just having a good socket set is very important. Not necessary to jack up vehicle but would help. I drove the front wheels up on 3inch blocks. This is the order I did it in, you may want to do it a little differently. I include headings for the most part but in general this order worked well. Here we go!... Covers: Remove primary engine cover Remove RH engine cover Remove LH engine cover Remove front engine cover Remove under engine covers (x2) Battery: Disconnect battery terminals Remove battery horizontal support brace Disconnect the electrical connection on the LH side of the battery cover Remove battery cover Remove battery Remove base cover of battery Remove battery vertical support brace Remove control module under battery (x3 bolts – long one goes on RH side) Disconnect 3 elec. connectors on control module Remove bottom battery case (x3 bolts) EGR: Remove EGR pipe and gaskets Disconnect EGR elec. connector Remove EGR valve Radiator: Open radiator cap and drain ***** (have bucket ready to take ~5 litres) Drain fluid Remove air intake duct above radiator Disconnect inlet and outlet pipes of radiator fluid reservoir tank Remove reservoir tank Various: Disconnect fuse box wire harness clips (x2) Disconnect common rail front end elec. connector Disconnect common rail fuel supply hose Disconnect common rail rear end elec. connector Remove wire harness support bolts (x2) Various: Disconnect EGR valve rear end elec. connector Remove five wire harness clips (red arrows) Remove harness support (green arrow) Remove sponge adjacent to EGR valve Various: Remove bolts (x3) on water pipe (blue arrow) below EGR assembly Remove clip at front end of pipe and slide hose off Remove vacuum hose (small) from water pipe (underneath) Remove elec. connector under vacuum hose & remove clip also (hard to see but you’ll know it has to be disconnected) Push hose assembly out of the way – towards battery area (no need to fully disconnect) Air Flow (Throttle) Assembly:- Disconnect three elec. connectors on air flow unit Remove bolt on air flow unit Common Rail:- Remove common rail bolt (x2) Remove common rail fuel lines Protect (tissue) the common rail connectors & ports Remove common rail and keep clean Inlet Manifold: Disconnect vacuum hose from inlet manifold Remove inlet manifold upper stay bolt (it’s a vertical support that can be hard to see) Remove air flow pipe to inlet manifold (1 clip also) (difficult to remove for me but keep twisting and pulling – there is a lip to overcome) Loosen inlet manifold lower stay nut (very difficult to access – hard to even see. This was the most awkward part of the whole job. You should really disconnect for easier access but it would be impossible to get it back on – loosening and pushing it aside was fine for me) See diagram below. Remove bolts (~x9) on intake manifold Remove intake manifold Cleaning: Clean inlet manifold – I used a power hose, carburettor cleaner, screwdriver for scraping & kitchen paper. Clean inlet ports – as above but I used a hoover continuously to prevent as much carbon as possible entering the valves/cylinders Reinstall in reverse – much easier than disassembly! Prime the fuel system. Photos: Photo 1 - Inlet ports exposed after inlet manifold clean. Of the four ports showing, the first has been cleaned mostly, the second is as found, and the third and fourth have some cleaning done. Highly recommend using a hoover if scraping any carbon from here. Otherwise just coat with carburetor cleaner and wipe away with a cloth. Photo 2 - Inlet manifold removed. Condition hard to see but constriction increases further into the ports. Photo 3 - Inlet ports - two untouched and two partially cleared.

Copied here from the general forum ... Finally got around to looking at these.- the tilt function when reversing worked well when I bought the car but over time it has reduced to the point where it just twitched when moving into reverse. I planned to have a look at it months ago but just never got round to doing it. I done it today and took pictures of each step. It took half an hour for the first mirror and 20 minutes for the second so not a time consuming job. I needed to replace two worn plastic motor worm gear cogs which had partly stripped and I gave the mirrors a very good clean inside and out. Re-greased and oiled. They had accumulated a lot of dirt over the years and I don't think anyone had been in them since it rolled off the production line so it was a well worthwhile job. They are now working spot on and are holding their memory positions when starting the car. I could not get them to stop working after testing them for about 10 minutes so am happy and confident they are now fixed. I think the winter has a big effect on them when they are frozen up - they will automatically try to set themselves to the user position and also will try to move when reversing which puts a strain on the motors making them skip and strip teeth. Anyway - what I have done below worked for me - I have two good motor units left spare which I sourced which you can use the plastic work gear from or the units themselves if anyone does this and finds they need them. Pictures below are in sequence marked from picture 1 to 14. I have never managed to fit them into a post with instructions against them so the instruction is on the picture itself.

Disclaimer: As always, this is a guide only and I accept no responsibility for any damage or injury that maybe sustained through following these guidelines. One thing that was really annoying me was when driving at low speeds, the slightest bump would give a rattling noise from the front of the car. The culprit being the worn/rusted slide pins allowing the caliper to move slightly and the metal on metal ,slide pin and caliper mount, clanking together. Tools required (excluding wheel removal): 1. Large screwdriver or lever 2. 17mm open ended spanner 3. 14mm ring spanner 4. Copper grease 5. Hammer 6. 21mm socket 7. flat blade screwdriver or chisel. OK, now down to the nitty gritty. Jack up vehicle and support on axle stands, please see this topic for wheel removal etc --> clicky 1. At this point it is easier for access if you turn the wheel, although this is not neccesary it made photographing easier too. You now need to undo and remove the bolts on the slide pins at the top and botton of the caliper. you will need a 14mm spanner on the bolt on the rear, and a 17mm open ended spanner to hold the slide pin to stop it turning. You may not need the 17mm spanner, it depends on how free the bolt unscrews. You don't want the rubber boots twisting too much so have the 17mm available just in case. top. bottom 2. You now need to push the pistons back slightly so that the calipers come off easier. I use a large screwdriver through the piston and into one of the disc vents. Lever towards yourself to push the pistons back slightly. 3. Now remove the caliper 4. Support the caliper (I use an axle stand). for the rest of the overhaul, I have removed the caliper mount to make it easier to photograph 5. The caliper mount showing the dust boot. The slide pins just pull out. If the grease has hardened, they can be hard to budge. A bit of penetrating oil helps free them up a bit and aid removal. 6. We need to remove and renew the boot if it is damaged or split. I used an old chisel and a hammer to remove. 7. Now we need to put the new dust boot on. For this you need to thread the rubber boot into a 21mm socket. Make sure the whole of the rubber part is inside the socket and the socket is resting on the metal washer. 8. Now offer up the socket and boot to the caliper mount and using a hammer gently tap it in. Be careful that you don't catch the rubber boot between the socket and washer/caliper mount. 9. Now the new slide pins. One is referred to as the Main slide, the other as the sub. Not sure why but there you go, the "main" is the one with the indent around the tip. This will hold the bush, which is just a rubber ring in reality and is slipped over the "main" slide pin, 10. Now just apply lithium grease to the pin and slide it in. Re-assembly is just the reverse of the removal. Slide pin bolt torque is 34 Nm (25 ft lbs). Any questions, please shout. Part numbers for fronts: 2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47715-30060 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust Part numbers for rears: 2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47715-22080 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust

The workshop manual does not tell us how to do this job. I had to work it out for myself. Here is what is involved:- 1. Remove air intake, disconnect MAF sensor and remove the complete air box. This will give you room to work. 2. Undo the nuts securing the tensioner. You cannot remove the tensioner yet because the alternator is in the way. 3. Undo the nuts and bolt securing the alternator. You cannot remove the alternator yet because the power steering pump pulley is in the way. 4. Remove the power steering pump pulley. I had to wedge a chisel through one of the pulley holes to hold the pulley. It needed a long bar to undo the nut. The pulley wheel needed a lot of persuasion from behind with a screwdriver before it came free. 5. Move the alternator out of the way. 6. You cannot move the tensioner yet because the plastic cover (shown with a label in the second picture) prevents this. You cannot remove the plastic cover until you have removed the timing belt cover. 7. You can now breathe a sigh of relief and remove the tensioner. You may also ask yourself why you did not get your mechanic to do the job. 8. Reassembly is a reverse of what you have just done. Torque figures for the alternator fixings are 39 Nm and 43 Nm for the P/S pump pulley. 9. There may be an easier way, but I am not a trained mechanic. I just wanted others to benefit from my experience.