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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/29/2019 in Tutorials

  1. 1 point
    Please ensure you have the correctly orientated battery for your car connections. Do a visual check before you commence this proceedure. If I remember correctly all you need is a 10mm spanner/socket and some petroleum jelly. Unlock the car, you do not want the alarm going off when you connect the new one!! Disconnect the NEGATIVE lead first, using the 10mm spanner, and move the lead to one side to avoid sparking. Disconnect the POSITIVE lead and move the lead to one side to avoid sparking. Undo the battery hold down clamp and put the nut somewhere safe, in your pocket is not a bad place. Disconnect the wired connection on the left hand side of the plastic collar that covers the battery. With a bit of jiggling this collar can be lifted off the battery. You can now lift out the old battery. At this point, check that the umbrella shaped hold down strap bolt has not come out of its slot. The plastic cover removal can move it from where it should be. Check it and tape or tie it up.. now. Replacing the plastic cover is even more likely to move it out of position!! Carefully lift in your new battery to its position, (remembering to orientate it the correct way!) Refit the plastic cover and re-attach the wired connection on the left side of the cover. Re-attach the hold down strap and re-connect the battery terminals starting with the POSITIVE lead. Cover any exposed terminal parts with Petroleum Jelly to prevent corrosion. Start the car!! Should take no more than 30 mins. You will need to ‘resync’ the electric window operations as described on page 45 of the Owners Manual.
  2. 1 point
    Disclaimer: AS always, this is a guide only and I accept no responsibility for any damage or injury that maybe sustained through following these guidelines. Tools required (excluding wheel removal): 1. Breaker Bar (only required if changing discs) 2. 1/2 inch drive rachet (optional) 3. Large screwdriver or lever 4. 17mm open ended spanner 5. 14mm ring spanner 6. Copper grease 7. Piston retraction tool (g-clamp or anything similar for pushing the pistons back). 8. 17mm socket (not pictured) OK, now down to the nitty gritty. I will do the whole thing including wheel removal just incase someone doesn't know how to do it. 1. Loosen (DO NOT REMOVE) wheel nuts before jacking up the car. 2. Open the bonnet and remove brake fluid resevoir cap 3. Jack up the car and support on axle stands. 4. Remove wheel nuts and remove wheel to expose the brakes 5. At this point it is easier for access if you turn the wheel, although this is not neccesary but made phtographing easier too. You now need to undo and remove the bolts on the slide pins at the top and botton of the caliper. you will need a 14mm spanner on the bolt on the rear, and a 17mm open ended spanner to hold the slide pin to stop it turning. You may not need the 17mm spanner, it depends on how free the bolt unscrews. You don't want the rubber boots twisting too much so have the 17mm available just in case. You can just remove the bottom bolt and pivot the whole caliper up around the top pin, because I am going to remove the disc too I will remove the caliper completely. top. bottom 6. You now need to push the pistons back slightly so that the calipers come off easier. I use a large screwdriver through the piston and into one of the disc vents. Lever towards yourself to push the pistons back slightly. 7. Now remove the caliper 8. Support the caliper (I use an axle stand). 9. Now the pads can be removed. Take off the two springs that span across the disc between the pads. And pull the pads out from the front and rear. 10. Push back the pistons. I use a retraction tool but you can use alsorts, g-clamps, bits of wood, whatever. This is where removing the resevoir cap in step two comes into place. Keep an eye on the fluid level as you retract the pistons. If the resevoir is going to overflow, draw off some of the fluid from the resevoir (i use a syringe for this). If the fluid has not been topped off as the pads wear, you shouldn't get any overflow. 11. Now We can go about removing the disc. Obviously if you are only changing pads, you can skip the next few steps. Using a 17mm socket and the breaker bar undo and remove the caliper mount bracket. These bolts are darn tight, so although the breaker bar is not mandatory, it makes the job a whole lot easier 12. Remove the mount 13. The discs are not fastened to the hub (not on the GS anyway) so the disc will come straight off. Re-assembly is the reverse of the removal with the exception of using the copper grease in various places. This is not mandatory but it will help reduce/illiminate brake squeel. Apply a small amount between the disc and hub surfaces. Also apply to the piston faces and bwteen the pads/shims/calipers. Make sure you do not get any grease on the pad surfaces. Don't forget to put the springs back on tht link the pads. Slide pin bolt torque is 34 Nm (25 ft lbs) Caliper mount to hub bolts are 118 Nm (87 ft lbs) Once everything is back together and the wheel goes back on, tighten the wheel nuts in the sequence shown below, torqued to 103 Nm (76 ft lbs) I hope this tutorial helps somebody. Any questions, please feel free to ask.
  3. 1 point
    It is recommended that the engine ECU is reset after any engine performance modifications have been made to the vehicle, including using a higher octane fuel, to accelerate the learning of any new parameters. Resetting the ECU will also clear any stored error codes, however if you have a fault with your vehicle it is advisable that these codes are retrieved rather than wiped as they may help in diagnosing the problem. Make sure the ignition is turned off Remove the engine bay fuse box cover Remove the 20Amp/25Amp EFI fuse Remove the 15Amp ETCS fuse Wait 30 seconds Re-insert the two fuses Install the fuse box cover It is also possible to reset the engine ECU by removing the battery. Please note that this method will also reset any memory settings such as radio presets, trip mileage, clock etc.
  4. 1 point
    If you ever have to disconnect the small 12v battery located under the velour cover in the nearside of the boot, you will find the drivers' side window switches for the rear & passenger doors will no longer work & the scurity system is affected. To rectify this after reconnecting 12v battery, go to each individual door switch on each individual door & fully lower & fully raise each window from their own door control, when you shut each door afterwards you will here 3 acknowledgement beeps. That's it - all controls will now work fine & security system is back to its original state. :)
  5. 1 point
    Disclaimer: As always, this is a guide only and I accept no responsibility for any damage or injury that maybe sustained through following these guidelines. One thing that was really annoying me was when driving at low speeds, the slightest bump would give a rattling noise from the front of the car. The culprit being the worn/rusted slide pins allowing the caliper to move slightly and the metal on metal ,slide pin and caliper mount, clanking together. Tools required (excluding wheel removal): 1. Large screwdriver or lever 2. 17mm open ended spanner 3. 14mm ring spanner 4. Copper grease 5. Hammer 6. 21mm socket 7. flat blade screwdriver or chisel. OK, now down to the nitty gritty. Jack up vehicle and support on axle stands, please see this topic for wheel removal etc --> clicky 1. At this point it is easier for access if you turn the wheel, although this is not neccesary it made photographing easier too. You now need to undo and remove the bolts on the slide pins at the top and botton of the caliper. you will need a 14mm spanner on the bolt on the rear, and a 17mm open ended spanner to hold the slide pin to stop it turning. You may not need the 17mm spanner, it depends on how free the bolt unscrews. You don't want the rubber boots twisting too much so have the 17mm available just in case. top. bottom 2. You now need to push the pistons back slightly so that the calipers come off easier. I use a large screwdriver through the piston and into one of the disc vents. Lever towards yourself to push the pistons back slightly. 3. Now remove the caliper 4. Support the caliper (I use an axle stand). for the rest of the overhaul, I have removed the caliper mount to make it easier to photograph 5. The caliper mount showing the dust boot. The slide pins just pull out. If the grease has hardened, they can be hard to budge. A bit of penetrating oil helps free them up a bit and aid removal. 6. We need to remove and renew the boot if it is damaged or split. I used an old chisel and a hammer to remove. 7. Now we need to put the new dust boot on. For this you need to thread the rubber boot into a 21mm socket. Make sure the whole of the rubber part is inside the socket and the socket is resting on the metal washer. 8. Now offer up the socket and boot to the caliper mount and using a hammer gently tap it in. Be careful that you don't catch the rubber boot between the socket and washer/caliper mount. 9. Now the new slide pins. One is referred to as the Main slide, the other as the sub. Not sure why but there you go, the "main" is the one with the indent around the tip. This will hold the bush, which is just a rubber ring in reality and is slipped over the "main" slide pin, 10. Now just apply lithium grease to the pin and slide it in. Re-assembly is just the reverse of the removal. Slide pin bolt torque is 34 Nm (25 ft lbs). Any questions, please shout. Part numbers for fronts: 2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47715-30060 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust Part numbers for rears: 2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47715-22080 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust
  6. 1 point
    The usual workshop disclaimers apply, if you are not sure or don't have the tools don't do the job, this is a vital component on your car. If not done correctly the front wheel could just plain come off. Seems to be a common problem with our cars so I thought I would post this to give a guide. First apply the handbrake, "crack" the wheel nuts on the side you are doing and then jack the car up and support on an axle stand. Use the wheel "chock" (foldable wedge thing from the toolkit) under the opposite rear wheel. Jack up the opposite side front so that the tyre is just clear of the ground (This allows you to turn the steering freely if the steering lock is off). Remove the wheel. Step 1 - With the steering lock off move the wheel to full lock with the front of the wheel outside the arch and remove the ABS sensor. It can be a pig to get out as the grease makes a seal, just rotate and work at it and it will come out, tuck it away at behind the ABS sensor cable at the front of the suspension strut. Once removed I put the bolt back in so as not to lose it! Next centre the steering and engage the steering lock, locate the 2 bolts underneath that hold the hub assembly to the ball joint/steering arm this is the one at the rear and there is a similar one to the front of the pivot. Use a long "breaker bar" to crack the bolts. Get some rope and tie to the top of the coil spring, remove the bolts and lift the whole hub assemble off the spigots and support with the rope ensuring that you put no strain on the flexible brake pipe. (In this pic you can see the ABS sensor coming off the clamp bracket on the suspension strut) Remove the split pin and nut from the track rod end, I put it back on upside down to protect the thread during the next stage in case the ball joint splitter slipped. (Note the WD40 all over the place here) Use a ball joint splitter to remove the track rod end. It will probably go with a loud bang so be be prepared, it will be noisy but not damaging. Remove the split pin from the ball joint main nut. Use that long breaker bar to crack the nut.. Then remove the nut and the track rod. Ball joint splitter comes into play again, you may need to hammer the "fork" to get it in place. Looks easy but I had to use a good fashioned fork and hammer to get this one out. Put the new ball joint in and torque to 123Nm If the split pin won't go through tighten or loosen the nut the least amount possible until you can get a new split pin through the hole. I always prefer to go tighter if it is 50/50 on the nearest slot. Replace the track rod end and torque to 54Nm, same again for the split pin (always use a new one, an assorted box is a couple of quid from Halfaruds) Replace the hub assembly ensuring that it engages on the spigots on the ball joint arm Replace the hub assembly bolts and tighten in turn to a torque of 113Nm Replace the ABS sensor and the wheel nipping up the wheel nuts, drop the car back to the ground and torque the wheel nuts to 105Nm in a "diagonal" pattern. Don't forget to check the wheel nuts after a few miles and it is job done :
  7. 1 point
    THE CORRECT MEANS OF SUPPORTING A CAR SHOULD BE USED! 1. Support car -remember to turn wheel and remove the wheel. 2. On the inside of the caliper you will see 2 bolts about 14 mm. unscrew the bottom one ONLY!! - you might need to hold the nut with a spanner as well - now depending how worn your discs are, the caliper might lift straight off or not. 3. Best to try and pull the caliper sideways a little ( outwards) this is to try and push the pistons back in a tiny amount to make removing the caliper a little easier failing that you can always just pry up the caliper from its lower end. 4. From the lower end of the caliper, pull up slightly with a bit of effort, then the caliper will rotate around the upper bolt( the pads stay where they are) 4. Look at the pads - you will see 2 little springs that go into the top of the pads pull these out and put them to one side. 5. Have a good look at the pads and note thier positions/ orientation so that there is no confusion on re-assembly - make a drawing if you have to. 6. Remove the pads - just pull them out. one or two of the pads has a metal plate behind it - note its orientation before removing it. 7. If you are replacing your pads, clean the area where the pad sits in the caliper housing, re -fit the metal backing pad (note orientation and little arrow)- put a TINY amount of copper grease/paste between the pad and plate but dont get any on the pad material. do the same for the other pad 7a. Cleaning pads - with a cloth or something clean the mating areas of the pad/caliper and also the metal backing plate on one of the pads ( note orientation, look at the little arrow) .Now if the pads have become worn to the point where the chamfer on the ends of the pads are worn away you should re chamfer these - just use a file or if you have a bench grinder use that ( remember your dust mask) somewhere about 45 degrees should be fine. 8. Re fit the little springs that you removed in step 4. 9. If you have replaced your pads then you will need to push the caliper pistons back into the caliper - use a pair of water pump/ slip joint pliers to do this( if you have painted your calipers best to wrap the jaws with a bit of masking tape or a bit of cloth) If you have only cleaned your pads then you may not need to do this. 10. Lower the caliper down over the pads - if it wont go on something is wrong! check!!!!!!! 11. Line up the hole in the caliper housing and the caliper itself, put some thread lock on the bolt that you removed in step 2. re - fit the bolt TORQUE FIGURE IS 25LBS/FT. 12. Put the wheel back on and lower the car. TIGHTEN THE WHEEL NUTS repeat on the other brake unit 14. IMPORTANT STEP - AFTER STARTING THE ENGINE (DO NOT DRIVE!!!) YOU MUST PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL YOU GET THE NORMAL BRAKE FEELING 14. drive the car slowly and at about 5mph test the brakes just to be on the safe side! - if you have replaced the pads, bed the pads in for a few miles. FINISHED! ok few tips- when you push the caliper pistons back in- if you have a leak of brake fluid then someone has topped up the brake fluid after seeing it was "low" you never need to do this unless you are changing your brake fluid because the brake system is a closed system - the fluid just moves from the reservoir to the pistons as the pads wear. wash off any excess fluid that got spilt with plenty of water as it can damage your paint. Thanks to Mat Clawley for this guide!
  8. 1 point
    This is a list of things to check when viewing a series II GS300. If you are unsure about checking these items it is recommended that you get an independent inspection carried out. Wheel vibration – The GS300 is sensitive to front wheel balance. Make sure you test drive the vehicle at 70-80mph (where appropriate). Front brake discs – These are prone to warping if wheel nuts are not tightened in the correct order and to the correct torque. Any steering wobble under light braking from 60mph indicates a problem. Ball joints – Perform full lock turns and try to drive over speed bumps and listen out of knocking noise or loose steering feel. Wind noise – Check for noise at 70mph around sunroof, door, mirror and windscreen. Door sensors – Open each door in turn and check the door open warning light illuminates on the dashboard. A problem with a sensor is costly as they are integrated into the door lock mechanism. Battery – When starting the engine should turn over very fast. If the car struggles to turn over may indicate a problem with the battery. Sat Nav version – If the vehicle is fitted with Satellite Navigation then check the CD version. Anything under 3.x will not have full UK road coverage. To upgrade will cost around £100. A DVD based system will contain all road data but newer versions support enhanced features. To upgrade a DVD system will cost around £120. Updates are available from your Lexus dealer or online: http://www.lexus-mapupdates.eu/ LCD display - For non Sat Nav vehicles check the stereo and heating LCD displays for any missing segments. Power Steering Cooler - Check power steering cooler, located in front of the bottom part of the radiator, for corrosion/leaks. Pre facelift only - 1998 to Sep 2000 Master Keys - The vehicle should come with two master keys and one sub key (valet). You need a master key to have additional keys programmed, without such a key the engine ECU has to be replaced to obtain a new key and will cost around £800. Do not purchase a car without a master key and if it only has one master key then obtain another one ASAP which will cost around £100. To determine if a key is a master or not insert it into the ignition, the security light should be off. If you insert a sub key the security light will illuminate for 1 or 2 seconds before going out. Master keys will also normally have three buttons and be able to lock the boot and glovebox. Sub keys only have two buttons, missing the remote boot release. Brake Master Cylinder/Booster - With engine running repeatedly press brake pedal until brake booster pump can be heard running. Allow pump to turn off, around 30 seconds, and repear several times making sure no VSC or ABS warning lights appear or alarms heard. Brake booster is a common failure and currently the only known cure is a full master cylinder with pump replacement at £1600 + labour. Salvage yards are a source of second hand units for around £500. Thanks to Colin Barber for this Guide!




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