trevman

Hi, A few people have asked about replacing rear discs, as I was replacing mine today I thought I'd do a bit of a "beginners guide / how to" Firstly chock the front wheels, jack the car up, with the handbrake released. Remove the road wheel Remove the spring clip A Working from the inner side of the caliper tap out the pin B Remove the two springs C Then try to prise out the brake pads, if unable to remove them proceed to removing the caliper. Remove the two 17mm caliper retaining bolts as shown above If you didn't manage to remove the pads before do it now. With the car in neutral and the handbrake off rotate the disc so that the black rubber lug is in the 6 o'clock position. Prise out the lug Using a torch look inside the hole to familiarise yourself with the position and shape of the handbrake cog. Insert a flat head screwdriver and keep flicking downwards on the cog until it will go no further (this slackens off the handbrake shoes) Now try to slide the disc off, if it will not release take a hammer a deliver a few heavy taps to the rear of the disc to help free it. With the disc removed you can clean off any debris, also apply some copper grease between the wheel studs where the disc will sit. With the new disc fitted in poisition you can re-adjust the handbrake. The same method applies only this time spin the cog in an upwards direction. Keep doing it until the wheel locks and cannot be rotated, and then slacken of a few flicks. Remember to replace the rubber lug. Next using a G-clamp force the caliper pistons back (remember to remove the cap on brake fluid reservoir in the engine compartment). Then refit the caliper, tighten the two 17mm bolts to the specified torque (104Nm if my memory serves). Slide in your pads (after fitting the anti-squeel shims and applying some copper grease to the backs of them) Refit the springs and slide pin. Refit the brake fluid reservoir cap and pump the brake pedal a few times, also check the operation of the handbrake. When you're happy with that refit the road wheel (adding copper grease to the rear) and tighten to specified torque (103Nm) and you're done. These are the tools you'll need.

Ok thanks guys, pretty much what I thought. I was considering selling it to upgrade to an IS220d SE-L, but reading on the forum a lot of owners seem unhappy with IS220d. So I'll probably hold on to it for a bit, might even do a few mods. ;)

Hi Guys, I'm thinking of selling my 200 Sport (or trading it in). I was wondering, if you were buying an IS200 what would you be willing to pay for the following; IS200 Sport (2002 / 02 plate) Bright Red Mileage 68k 6 months MOT, 5 months TAX Full Service History (not Lexus) Cambelt Changed at 60k Bodywork immaculate, no dinks, dents or scuffs. Interior immaculate Wheels generally good condition but with some corrosion round edges. 4x Toyo Proxes TR-1 Tyes (8 motnhs old) Everything Works, NO ball joint, tracking, suspension, gemeotry, tyre wear problems. Original car with NO modifications Only faults were interior light bulb failed, also needed a new holding pin/spring for brake caliper. This isn't an ad, I'm just gauging opinion.

O.k. so which is it then ? A or B ? A is the same bolt as the engine drain and B is the same bolt as the diff drain.

Hi guys, Two pictures below of the IS200 gearbox. Can anybody tell me which is the filler and the drain plug bolts. I have a workshop diagram but it is completely different to my box. Gearbox from underneath: - which is drain plug ? Gearbox from underneath and left hand side: which is filler plug ? Any help very much appreciated.

Did the dealer say why the fluid needed changing ? Were there any ill effects ?

Mmm, it's the lower suspension arm that concerns me, some cars are a nightmare to lower it. My car recently flew through it's second MOT, however I've noticed a knocking from the front right, which sounds like a ball joint. May consider changing it myself, depending on how forgiving the arm is.

Are the ball joints easy to change on the IS ?

Hi guys, could somebody please remind me which is the filler and the drain plug on the IS200 gearbox. I have a parts diagram showing both but my box seems to have an extra 3 bolts which all look likely possibilities. There are two which could be the drain, a standard bolt on the side at the bottom and right next to that on the bottom is a torx bolt. For the filler there is a funny shaped flimsy looking bolt half way up, a large bolt with an earth connected, a smaller bolt near the top and finally a hex bolt whcih is situated much further forward than my diagram shows. I can't remember which is which and don't want to undo anything just in case i'm wrong. Any help much appreciated.

Sounds like a problem with the shims, or no copper grease between the caliper and pads.

Ok. guys, did my second calculation for economy and this time used the method described by vyker whereby you fill the tank, use some and then refill the tank, thus working out litres used and mileage etc.etc. Anyway came back lower this time, but still pretty good at 35mpg

DONE :)

Recommendations: Replace Cabin/Pollen filter Renew Engine Oil & Filter Renew Coolant/Anti-freeze Renew - Brake fluid Renew - Air Filter Replace - Remote Fob Batteries Clean & Lubricate Sunroof Seal There are many things to check, most are just the physical condition or function of standard items such as lights, wipers, washers, horn, heaters, window & door operation, dash warning lamps not on etc etc. Just a general check of the car to make sure everything looks good and does it's job ok. Other checks include underbonnet components such as fluid levels, condition of belts and hoses etc. The full list is quite long so I've PM'd it to you.

This is a big issue nowadays as our roads have now declined to such a poor standard. For help & advice see: http://www.potholes.co.uk

Toyota Part number for the owners manual is: OM534-40E / 01999-53440 It's quite a large manual with 326 pages, covers IS200 / IS300 and all models including Sport & Sportcross