Talisker

Check your calipers. It could be that your pads aren't sliding in the caliper causing this strange pattern. When i first got my car i had pitted rear discs and discovered the rear brakes the pads were stuck solid in the caliper. I had to lever the pads out and chisel all the rust out to get the brakes working well again.

I'm slightly biased when I say Granite Sky, but she does look great in the sun when she's nice and clean. If you look really close there's blue and red and silver flakes in the paint. I also like Scarletti Red, the LE colour is lovely too.

Not enough to fail your MOT. Don't worry Fredrico, there are lots of people with the TTE kit installed with the HKS FCD who have no problems passing their MOT's.

Yep very straight forward, I replaced mine 2 weeks ago. Once your under the car everything is right in front of you and self explanatory. If you have access to a ramp then that is a huge plus. If you haven't got a 500mm extension for your sockets then definitely get one or at least borrow one, you need it to get to the top bell housing bolts. Make sure you release the wiring loom from the transmission fully, this is you speed sensor and reverse switch so you could knacker them if you drop the transmission with the loom still attached. Make sure to plug the end of the transmission with a rag etc. after you remove the prop shaft or oil will p*ss out of it. They're the things that might catch you out. Good luck with it.

Welcome to the club. What kind of noise is your car making? Banging, clanging, tapping? And how loud is it? If one of your valves were broken I'd expect the noise to be there all the time, not just when it was warm. Is your engine check light on? Because if it is, you should have the code read to see what's wrong.

Cats are brilliant, my wife and I have 2 monster cats of our own.

The Snow button works by reducing the amount the throttle valve opens across the accelerator pedal movement range as oppose to normal driving mode. It's supposed to reduce how easy the wheels spin on low friction surfaces by effectively retarding the throttle. In reality however, the things that are most likely to keep you moving in snow and ice are : more weight in the boot (last year i loaded my boot with 50KG of free weights, it helped a lot) and turning traction off, because on low friction surfaces it's a real hindrance rather than a help. I think there's been quite a few threads regarding using Snow mode on the motorway to increase MPG. Edit : Ah, beat me to an explanation, Clossie.

Option 1: If the pins in the connector are the same you could depin the old connector and put them in the new connector. That's the neatest way I can think of but might be difficult getting the pins out. Option 2: Cut the wires and either solder or inline splice the new connector on. A bit messier and the repair will need to be well protected from the elements because they'll be in a harsh environment down there. You shouldn't even need to disconnect the battery, as long as the fog lights are off they'll be no voltage hanging around on the wires.

Is it the exhaust cooling down?

I'm pretty sure there's supposed to be a bit of play in the system. Mine's exactly the same.

Or increase the alcohol concentration of your washer fluid.

It sounds like normal operation to me. The amount the throttle valve opens at any one time is controlled by the ECU. This is a general outline of how it works, because it incorporates TRC and Snow mode too. Your input, via the throttle cable, moves the outer pulley which generates a signal in the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. This signal is sent to the ECU which works out how far to open the throttle. Then using the Throttle Position Sensor as it's reference, the Throttle Control Motor moves and trims the throttle valve to it's required position. The throttle valve itself is connected to the inner pulley. This is why the inner pulley appears to lag the outer pulley, because of the calculations and trimming signals generated by the ECU. Hope this helps

Is the Apache not operated by the Army Air Corp.? (I am ex RAF, retired) Very true, they fly in and out of my base quite regularly though. I've been on the airfield when a couple of the death machines taxied past.

The gatling gun from an apache helicopter would be pretty cool. The way it looks wherever the pilot is looking is not only very cool but very creepy and sinister. (I have first hand experience, I'm in the RAF)

Hi all, Does anyone know where the very useful eaton rebuild thread has gone? I can't seem to find a full version, only a fragmented one. I'd really like to know how to replace the roller bearings in the back of the case below the intake as one of mine has started to break down. It looks like they just push out but I really don't want to be subjecting my charger to any heavy persuasion without a definitive answer. Can anyone help?

Have a look at my how to HERE. It's daunting to start off with but well worth it, chrome is a bit too bling for my tastes.

I've used autoglym machine cleaner on my engine bay a few times and had no problems when I rinsed it off with a hose. All the electric plugs on the lexus seal with a rubber o-ring so as long as you use low pressure water to rinse and avoid the intakes you should be fine. If in doubt though, bag it up beforehand.

I think I used a pulling tool to remove mine.

Nothing is working? Does that mean you have no power to the unit? If so check your fuses, if they're ok check for loose connections behind the head unit, if they're ok check the connections at the amplifier behind the glove box. If all that's ok you're into more comprehensive fault finding.

Did you buy second hand coils or brand new. Could just be that you've installed a faulty coil.

The MPG is a little bit worse, but it really depends on how you drive your car. I've modified my Supercharger setup so that it now works with the magnetic clutch reinstated, so I might get a better MPG figure than the other charged guys. On my last long run up to Scotland I got 34MPG average, which I thought was pretty good. I think the lowest I've ever got on combined driving was about 22-23 MPG.

When I painted my 'old style' fog lights black, I carefully chiseled all the corrosion from the bulb holder and used a bit of rubber lubricant (hellerine not spermicidal lube :P ) to release the bulb. Then when it came to reassembly I slapped a LOAD of silicone grease all round the back of the bulb where the majority of the corrosion had formed. That was 3 years ago and I've not had any misting or bulbs out.

Is yours an earlier model by any chance? I think from 2001 or 2002 Lexus used a different ABS pump that's slightly smaller or a slightly different shape.

As the title suggests I'm after an exhaust manifold for my IS200. Lambda sensors or no lambda sensors I'm not fussy as I can swap them out if need be. Breakers seem to want silly money for manifolds. If anyone can help I'd appreciate it.

You really need to work out where the squeak is coming from. It's less likely that your shock absorber is squeaking. Try investigating your top and bottom mounts of your shock absorber or even the seat where your coilspring sits, the rubber might have slipped out slightly. And if you are going to lubricate anything I advise against using WD40, it's more of a penetrator and water dispersant. You'd be better off using a general purpose lithium based grease. Hope this helps.