TOGWT

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  1. My understanding of Ceramiclear OEM application is that it equires very high temperatures to cure, higher than a bodyshop drying oven could provide. So whilst it will not be as 'hard' as the OEM paint a scratch resistant paint is available from PPG and others. CeramiClear: PPG’s CeramiClear clear coat is the first automotive clear coat to use nano particle technology in the final coating applied to car bodies, protecting the colour coat while providing a durable, glossy appearance. The patented technology creates a highly cross-linked network at the surface of the coating for superior resistance to damage caused by day-to-day use, car washes and environmental hazards such as acid rain and tree sap” look in the door jam; you will see a "C" after the paint code if it is Ceramiclear. PPG website- http://www.ppg.com/car_autocoat/awards.htm PPG Industries Inc (2004) ceramic clear coat is unmatched in scratch, surface marring and acid-etching resistance as well as gloss retention. Test results have shown that after a period of six months gloss retention shows an 80% improvement and acid-etching resistance is 50% better compared to that of a non-ceramic clear coat. They have also developed an aftermarket refinishing clear coat to provide approximately the same level of protection as the OEM ceramic clear coat. Menzerna polishes were designed to remove very fine (3000 grit) swirls from the new, super-hard, ceramic clear coats. These are the BASF clear coats being used on the Maybach and 2004-5 Rolls Royce Phantom and PPG's CeramiClear which is being used on the 2005 Mercedes C-Class, they can also be used on conventional clear coats. One of the better polishes I've found to reduce imperfections and finish down the furthest is Menzerna PO106ff; I have found this polish to be foam pad ‘dependant’ as far as its paint correction abilities are concerned. On Ceramiclear (and most other paint systems) I would recommend a two level foam pad / polish to really bring out the paint. Start with PO 106ff and an LC Orange foam pad and follow with white foam. I'd suggest polishing twice a year (Spring and Autumn) or as needed.
  2. Table II Foam Pad Selection / Use Polish / Cutting Pad (*Yellow) A harder more dense foam composition (50 PPI ) with an abrasive cutting action, for use with a medium abrasive polish, Machine Polish 1 or 2, Swirl Mark Remover, or Autoglym Paint Renovator Polish (Speed number 4-5) Polish / Light Cutting Pad (*Orange) A mid range, high density foam composition (60 PPI) with a medium abrasive cutting action, for use with a Swirl Mark Remover, Pre-Wax Paint Cleaner, Klasse All-In-One, or Autoglym Super Resin Polish (Speed number 4) Polish / Waxing Pad (*White) A softer less dense foam composition(70 PPI) with a light abrasive cutting action, for use with a Swirl Mark Remover, Pre-Wax Paint Cleaner, Klasse All-In-One, or Autoglym Super Resin Polish (Speed number 4) Finishing Pad (*Black) An ultra-smooth foam that has no abrasive cutting ability (80 PPI) for use with Klasse High Sealant Gloss, Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection, Zanio Z-2 or Z-5 or a Glaze (Speed number 3) Information Resource- http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/woolcutpads_feat.html *The foam pad colour identifications and specifications are by Lake County Manufacturing (LC) other manufactures of foam pads use different colours to identify the abrasiveness or cutting ability of their foam pads, they can be purchased at www.properautocare.com.
  3. its the same-Use 303 Aerospace Protectant to provide ultra violet protection for-Vinyl, Rubber, Vinyl convertible tops, Clear vinyl windows, Tonneau cover's, Clear bras, Rubber seals and Coated leather interiors
  4. aerospace 303 is fantastic. Its one of the most highly regarded dash protectors on the market. You can pick it up from Autopia :D Maintenance- use an anti-static plastic cleaner (BTI™ Chemicals Plexus Plastic Polish & Cleaner) and lightly spray a damp towel and apply 303 Space Protectant for UVR protection Vinyl dressings should be used to replenish the necessary oils (to avoid the vinyl plasticizers drying out and cracking) to interior and plastic panels
  5. Light coloured paint: Lighter colour paints (i.e. Silver, White, etc (the exception is speed yellow) will never obtain jetting (the so called ‘wet-look’) of black or dark colours as they do not exhibit visible depth, light colours tends to refract light instead of reflecting it. You can obtain a good gloss provided the paint is good quality and if it’s prepared and detailed correctly; washed, cleaned (detailer’s clay) polished and a polymer sealant added (Zaino, Klasse AIO and SG, Jeffswerkstatt - Acrylic Jett ) these sealants will provide a flat silvery-white shine, but without ‘depth’. By adding a Carnauba wax as an LSP (Pinnacle Souverän Paste Carnauba, Victoria Concourse or Autoglym Super Resin Polish) the oils that are formulated in the Carnauba waxes provide a reflective gloss, which causes jetting (a ‘wetting’ of the surface) For optimal results the surface of a light coloured paint to show gloss is very much dependant upon good / excellent paint condition, adequately prepped to remove contaminants and minor imperfections. Detailer’s clay (Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay Bar) and / or Paint cleaner (Zaino PC or Klasse AIO) should be a regular part of the preparation process.
  6. I would reccommend 'Invisible Glass' on all glass surfaces Caution: do not use products that contain ammonia, as it is very harmful to vinyl, plastic and rubber. It will cause plastic to ‘yellow’ and become clouded and it will also turn Mylar (plastic) window tint purple. Some people prefer to use plain water to clean their windows. While this is a very safe method, water is not enough of a solvent to cut the protein base of stubborn grease / grime spots
  7. Leather wipes: These wipes are a convenient way of applying a dressing but be aware that they contain solvents (there primary function is to enable the dressing to impregnate the cloth applicator) the same solvent may remove leather dye. Test in an inconspicuous area to ensure that the leather won't change colour Ultra suede (Escaine, Alacantra): Is a 100% Polyester man-made suede substitute, which should be cleaned by brushing the nap with a soft nylon upholstery brush, remove pilling with a single-sided razor blade and then applying a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® with a ratio of 5:1 or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (do not over-wet the fabric) and do not use steam. Localized stains can be treated with a citrus-based cleaner, ensure surface is dry before use by leaving window cracked/open. For heavy stain removal- 1:1 Folex Instant Carpet Spot Remover / Distilled water- http://www.folexcompany.com/ Identifying characteristics- very soft to the touch will scratch or scuff very easily; water drops will darken the leather but it returns to its original colour after drying. Maintenance- Use a soft brush lightly to remove dust and raise the fabrics nap, once your seats / steering wheel / interior is clean, you should use a conditioning/protection product (303™ High Tech Fabric Guard, which includes UVR protection)
  8. There had better be more than two of us.... You have to remove your underpants to iron them..who knew :duh:
  9. Polymer Sealant- (provides durable protection)-A non-organic based wax formulated from polymers used to seal paint with a thin hard barrier. They are very durable and provide a very bright, but flat silvery shine. This type of product is a compromise as it does provide durability but lacks the properties of a Carnauba wax lacking both colour and depth, and because of a polymer's inherent molecular structure it cannot mimic the properties of a Carnauba wax. If not properly designed, polymer sealants may crack, yellow or distort the optics of the paint surface. Polymers used in sealants need a painted surface to catatonically bond to; they don't do well when asked to bond to metal to provide protection. A clear coat (paint) has by nature, porosity; they bond very well and provide the intended protection Carnauba Wax- (provides a sacrificial but renewable protection)-A natural wax repellent, it forms a barrier that is a natural protection from the suns UV radiation, acid rain, airborne pollutants and acidic bird droppings, it provides Colour, Depth and Clarity that is without equal, but lacks durability. An ideal Carnauba wax should wipe on and the residue should be wet when removed to avoid surface marring, it should provide clarity (transparency) should be able to be ‘layered’ without becoming opaque and should include additional oils, which ‘wet’ the paint surface to give the paint finish depth and a rippled liquidity (this is caused by the wax ‘egg crate’ shape distorting the reflected Fracture/evaporation temperatures): Polymers 350oF + dependant upon type of polymer , Silicone oil 350oF, Mineral oils 200oF, Synthetic blends (Carnauba wax / polymers) 200oF dependant upon ratio’s used, Carnauba wax 180oF, and Bee’s wax 130oF. Generally you can expect 50% of your Carnauba wax layer to be gone after 30 days, 75% after 60 days and 95% gone after 90 days. You should plan on waxing your car four (4) times a year. You can extend the waxes life expectancy by parking in a garage, using a car cover and by using a quick detailer spray (QD) like Pinnacle Crystal Mist. Knowledge - [We know a subject] [We know where to find information on it] the most highly valued; [knowledge that is both held and shared]
  10. I would suggest you clean of the oils / ingrained dirt and then proceed thus:- Leatherique's Prestine Clean (Leatherique.com) or fill a fine misting spray bottle with a 1:1 Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) / distilled water solution spray the paint surface, leave it to dwell for 30-45 seconds, agitate before wiping the leather surface with a clean, dry 100% cotton towel. (DF Alpine™ http://www.dftowel.com) With 70% strength isopropyl alcohol in order to obtain a 1:1 ratio (50/50 % mixture) use 2 parts alcohol to 1 part distilled water (See relevant sections for usage and dilution used.) Leather Three Step Care: (Cleaning, Conditioning and (UVR) Protection): 1.Cleaning- use a soft horse hair brush (Groit's Leather & Interior Brush) and/or a vacuum to remove any dust, apply a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 6:1 ratio or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). To remove stubborn dirt or grime gently agitate the surface with a boar's hair cleaning brush (this will not harm the leather) then use a clean, damp Microfiber towel to rinse. Maintenance cleaning- use a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 10:1 ratio) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time Stubborn stains- dependent upon the leathers condition or how dirty it is consider using a leather-cleaning product. (Leatherique's Prestine Clean, Zaino Leather in a bottle, Groit's Leather Cleaner or Autoglym Leather Cleaner) 2. Conditioning- recommend a preventative maintenance routine three to four times a year, once prior to the winter season to prevent cold temperatures cracking the leather, and once before the heat of the summer to prevent deterioration and shrinkage by heat, which result in continued cracking of leather. In addition to regular cleaning, leather requires replacement of natural oils; Collagen-based products like Leatherique restore the lost moisture and maintain its natural flexibility. The smell of leather comes from oils evaporating out of the hide. Conditioners are for leather which is porous, vinyl is not, do not use a vinyl product as a conditioner on leather as vinyl requires much stronger cleaning agents than leather and above all try to avoid raw silicone oil based products, as the silicone oil will dissolve the leather's natural oils and tend to make the leather sticky, silicone oils also have a very high electrostatic (static) attraction to dust and dirt particle. 3. (UVR) Protection - you should consider additional sunscreen protection (especially if you own a convertible) leather conditioners typically do not offer any UV screening. The best solution is to alternate between a leather conditioner and a, ultra violet radiation (UVR) protection (303™ Aerospace Protectant). One month use a conditioner to keep the leather healthy and supple. On alternate months mist and wipe the leather with a UVR protection. After application allow 60 minutes for product to cure, then using a 100% cotton cloth to lightly buff surface (Zaino Z-10 contains UVR protection)
  11. Heavily soiled - The front wheels are usually more soiled, as this is where most of the vehicle braking effectiveness is. For badly soiled surfaces use an undiluted citrus-based APC (P21S Total Auto Wash) let it dwell for 5-10 minutes and then use a very Fine Grade synthetic brass wool, do not use heavy pressure, then use detailer’s clay followed by a gel-type wheel surface cleaner (P21S Wheel Cleaner) apply a polymer surface protection to ensure easier future cleaning (Klasse All-In-One or ZoopSeal) (http://www.autogeek.net) Sequestered metal brake dust, if left for any length of time on the wheels causes galvanic corrosion, which etches the surface and eventually dulls the wheel’s appearance if not removed on a regular basis. To remove brake dust stains use a mildly abrasive cleaner (Iz™ einszett Metal Polish “Chrompflege”, P21S Multi-Surface Finish or Autosol) Alternative product - Alloy Wheel Cleaner- a specialised product for cleaning alloy wheels, an aqueous blend of acids and emulsifiers Alloy Wheel Cleaner is a completely water-soluble product. http://www.cloverchemicals.com/uk/products...oy_wheel_uk.htm
  12. 1.Road dirt / Tar should be removed with a solvent type cleaner and any bonded contaminants or over spray removed with Detailer's Clay, then clean surface with a chemical cleaner / polish (Klasse All-In-One) wash and dry wheel surface thoroughly. 2.Once the brake dust has been removed with a 100% acid-free wheel cleaner (P21S Wheel Cleaner) apply a citrus based cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) to the surface, agitate with a boar’s hair wheel brush and rinse off, dry thoroughly and then apply a polymer sealant for protection, this will also make future cleaning easier. A polymer is recommended (Klasse All-In-One or Zoopseal) as it has a higher melting temperature (350oF) compared to Carnauba wax (180oF) a wheel surface will reach a temperature in excess of 120oF due to rotor friction and in excess of 195oF when parked in the sun. 3.Stubborn brake dust1. Stubborn brake dust- Power Wheel Cleaner (http://www.topoftheline.com/) even though it does not contain harsh acids, it dissolves the adhesive that is mixed with the brake dust. (This is why brake dust is so difficult to remove.) Just spray on wheels and tires, agitate with brush if needed, and hose-off. Don't worry if you accidentally spray your vehicle's body, it will not harm the paint.
  13. 1. Cleaning 2. Conditioning 3. Ultra Violet Radiation protection 1. Cleaning- use a soft horse hair brush (Groit's Leather & Interior Brush) and/or a vacuum to remove any dust, apply a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 6:1 ratio or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). To remove stubborn dirt or grime gently agitate the surface with a boar's hair cleaning brush (this will not harm the leather) then use a clean, damp Microfiber towel to rinse. Maintenance cleaning- use a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 10:1 ratio) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time Notes: a) With all cleaning products, always test a small, indiscrete area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. B) The harsh use of chemicals actually keeps dirt trapped in the fibres of the leather. If you abuse or neglect your leather, it won't survive. Keeping leather clean is important, but conditioning is the key to preserving its useful life, flexibility, appearance and longevity. 2. Initial conditioning - for the initial conditioning of uncoated leather, and/or if you are cleaning it for the first time use a Leather Rejuvenator. (http://www.Leatherique.com) [use Zaino Z-10 Leather in a bottle on coated leather] paying particular attention to area that are exposed to the most UV radiation, i.e. backs of headrests, seat shoulders, and then apply to the rest of the seating surfaces starting at he top and working your way down. Allow the product to be absorbed into the hides for several hours on a sunny day, or overnight. Warmth makes the leather fibres pores open allowing the proteins and collagens to be absorbed readily. Park the car in direct sunlight, cover seats with black plastic trash bags, and roll up the windows to create a steam room to allow the Rejuvenator to fully penetrate into the hides. 2a. Conditioning- recommend a preventative maintenance routine three to four times a year, once prior to the winter season to prevent cold temperatures cracking the leather, and once before the heat of the summer to prevent deterioration and shrinkage by heat, which result in continued cracking of leather. In addition to regular cleaning, leather requires replacement of natural oils; Collagen-based products like Leatherique restore the lost moisture and maintain its natural flexibility. The smell of leather comes from oils evaporating out of the hide. Schedule: Once every 30-60 days, Arizona, Florida and Texas, especially in summer, for northern climates between 90-120 days, use a leather conditioner to restore these natural oils and keep the leather soft and supple. (Criot's Leather Care, Autoglym Leather Care Cream, Zanio Z10 Leather in a Bottle or Zymol Treat leather cleaners are all good maintenance products) 3. Ultraviolet Radiation (UVR) Protection - you should consider additional sunscreen protection (especially if you own a convertible) leather conditioners typically do not offer any UV screening. The best solution is to alternate between a leather conditioner and a, ultra violet radiation (UVR) protection (303™ Aerospace Protectant). One month use a conditioner to keep the leather healthy and supple. On alternate months mist and wipe the leather with a UVR protection. After application allow 60 minutes for product to cure, then using a 100% cotton cloth to lightly buff surface
  14. All In One (AIO) is a mildly abrasive chemical cleaner, so there is no cure time-use your P21S as soon as the AIO is dry (you'll like the P21S shine etc)
  15. Carlack is another trade name for Klasse- 1.Apply products very thinly using absolute minimum pressure on the applicator. 2.The secret to the application of a polymer product is to apply it thin (super thin) 3.Fill a spray bottle and mist a foam pad for application. 4.Ease of product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used