steve2006

As John says, I’ll just add you can normally hear the solenoid activate when you pull the lever too, a mild thump noise in the boot.

I don’t need the back boxes as all mine is factory stainless steel but would like to hear and see the result of the deletion 😀

😀

A bit confusing but it would appear that the the 50040/50050/50060 is the 1990-1992 and the 50041/50051/50061 is the 1993-1994 model. Having said that the part number 50051 shows up for both years in some listings. Is the part number actually etched into the glass I wonder?

I checked on Toyodiy for the part number for the 1993-1994 model year but did also notice that Amayama listed this as a 1990-1992 part. AFAIK the rear glass would be the same as the main changes from the series 1 and II were front brakes going to 2 pot, bigger wheels from 15” to 16” and various other mainly cosmetic changes. That said obviously you need to be sure the rear screen is correct so I will look into this further for you.

A bit like those super bright replacement LED interior lights which fail within a few weeks taking out, in my case, the integration relay when I had my 94 Celsior. When the original filament bulbs tend to last the life of the car I now leave it as that.

Interesting and informative as usual particularly the remote starting and infotainment sections, first to try the latter please let me know if it works.

Looks like you’re going to need some “live data” diagnostics performed by a decent company with Toyota experience.

According to the Amayama website this is still available (at a price) and it is not yet showing as NLA or obsolete. There are 3 tint colours available so make sure you check or ask me to. If you can get your insurance company to agree to you importing one and having it fitted this may be your only option and bear in mind there is 20% VAT to add to the total price from Amayama. Weird but the blue tint is £200.00 cheaper? 4811 GLASS, BACK WINDOW 64810-50041 *EHTT, T=3.5, BRONZE 1 € 560.01 64810-50051 *EHTT, T=3.5, GRAY 1 € 560.01 64810-50061 *EHTT, T=3.5, BLUE 1 € 560.01

My Celsior (LS430) was already converted on purchase using a kit from Strutmasters, the system was deactivated simply by removing the air suspension fuse so no warning lights.

If it’s just the actuator rod that has broken you can easily make one for a few €€s and a little time, in the UK that would result in the annual test (MOT) being failed

I wonder why supposedly fuses for cars are rated and tested in the video at 32 Volts and not 12 Volts? There is a significant difference in the power rating between the 2 voltages, if you take 32 Volts @ 2A = 64W, 12 Volts @ 2A = 24W. It would be nice to see how OEM fuses perform under the same conditions. In electronics there are various types of fuses, slow blow, quick blow, time delay and anti surge to mention just a few and domestic fuses/circuit breakers also have different characteristics for the same current values as in Type B/C etc. So which type do we have in vehicles I wonder.

It was only a few days ago whilst driving through a local town on the way to the airport. There is a section of dual carriageway on the approach to a roundabout, this road is clearly marked by multiple signs that the left lane is only for a left turn to Nottingham and the M1, the right lane “All other routes”. i approached in the correct right lane in order to go straight on but of course the “white van man” in the left lane decided to cut me up. I braked to avoid a collision and sounded my horn to alert him of my presence but he continued ending up now in front of me stationary at a pedestrian crossing. But no he couldn’t let it go, window down the mouthing began complimented by a 2 finger salute. Yes I know I was in the wrong and the fact you were knowingly in the wrong lane and likely to know this incident may occur was all my fault!

Having owned 2 JDM imports I have found that mainstream insurers don’t want to know but there are plenty of specialist insurers that do. Over the years the premiums have been on par with a UK spec model. Initially I used Toyota for parts ( they are Toyota badged) until I discovered that the Lexus part was exactly the same and came without an “import surcharge”. Yes there may be a few cosmetic differences but probably 95% of the parts are the same as a UK model, the fact that JDM cars are also RHD also helps. Amayama is the place for parts as they cover all models with savings of around 50% of UK Lexus prices even after paying the shipping and 20% VAT.

I kept my 1994 Celsior for 16 years and have had my 2004 one for nearly 3 years now, Before these I would keep a car for no more than 3 years before they either needed major repairs or rusted away.

“Enhanced protection for your RX” Lexus speak for an anti theft plate 😀 Out of interest did it give a price for this or was it FOC?

Hi Jon, just sent you a PM 😀

I have a JDM Toyota Celsior (LS430) which has the auto folding mirrors which fold in and out with the ignition switch position. Does the GS450h not have this feature or is this just to convert it to fold the mirrors in and out when locking/unlocking?

Sounds familiar, are you sure you didn’t call the Post Office Horizon helpline?

Sorry Howard I missed this post, a bit late now but I have some complete locks in “the shed” if you need any more bits. You were right Malc 😀

Can I ask why this is not being repaired through your insurance or have they written it off with buy back ?

I wonder if they had their best year ever in the UK due to the amount of stolen cars being replaced 😀

The sensor is located on a bracket to the right and slightly up from the crank pulley ( 1 o’clock position) it is secured with a single bolt. 2nd picture shows position albeit on a dismantled engine. The 3 codes you have include a possible defective CPS if you look at the service and diagnostic sheets in the video.

From previous experience and a lot of reading the favourite cause of the engine failing to start when warm or cutting out when warm as in your case (thermal) would point towards a defective crankshaft sensor. Without this component working correctly the engine ECU has no reference to engine timing so doesn’t know which spark plug to fire and shuts down the fuel injectors. The only sure way of accurate diagnosis is to read the live data looking at the CPS output waveform and looking for any anomalies when the engine gets warm. Another way is to cool down the CPS with some freezer spray when the fault happens and then see if the engine starts confirming it is thermally related. I did find this video which gives the same codes and symptoms you have and mentions the CPS as one of the possible causes, some of the reasons like the fuel filter can be eliminated as the cause as this if clogged would prevent starting also when the engine is cold, it’s heat sensitive components you need to look at more closely like the CPS.

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