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Tinonline last won the day on June 27 2016

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About Tinonline

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  1. With Cotswold Pete here...admit I’m biased towards a Mark 4. Brakes easily fixed...my suspension at 80k miles all original though needed ball joints, lower control arm bushes... Check that cambelt, water pump and pulleys have been done. Cheap 400s won’t be around much longer so if you want even now you have to pay.
  2. Hi good luck👍 It’s good where garages are happy fitting customer sourced parts...my Jag indie will do same on wife’s car but I haven’t done that there yet as I’ve fixed a lot of stuff myself. Or he’s best placed to get tricky parts like front uprights. A useful aspect of this is you can buy parts over months or even years when offers or stock becomes available for later fitting. That spreads the costs. You can control the parts quality more easily too. I’m having a lot of business relationships with plumbers at the moment and need resources for my place so it just makes fiscal sense to run efficiently. 😉🧐
  3. At long, long last I have had my MK4 LS400 front suspension sorted. The last MOT reported leaking ball joint covers and I've seen the cracks in the lower control arm bushes not to mention the clunk from the driver's side one. There's a small garage that does tyres and servicing in Caversham, Reading and I regularly source tyres for fitting there, not too far from me, always busy with all sorts of cars in for repair. A conversation a while ago ended up with me entrusting the work to them with me sourcing the parts. This was the damage: Lower control arm bushes only - Lexus Birmingham - £95.00 Ball joints - Beck & Arnley (premium) - Rock Auto - £105 including duty, carriage Tie-rod end x1 - £36 sourced on need to replace by garage Alignment - £42 Labour - £231 + VAT Total project bill was £513.00 (I paid the garage £312.00) I'm delighted with the work and the steering wheel is dead dead centre, no more clunks and everything feels steady and solid. I was looking at doing the job myself but on this occasion didn't regret leaving it to the professionals. My motor is also due its annual oil change so I'm just waiting on a sump plug washer. 😊
  4. Hi I see a lot of misdiagnosis or misuse of the term “pitted brake discs” as advisory. Rust scaling and or light grooving is not pitting. Pitting is one or many crater like indentations on the surface and is usually a production issue or someone has caused damage. Pretty rare really and worse case the pad might break up best case it’ll get rubbed out overtime.
  5. Yeh don’t bother. Maybe a search and wait but £900 isn’t nothing...could be a lot for a pile...
  6. Hi Those seals look shot to me. 🧐 I’d check door seals too. And “moonroof” sunroof to most of the world... If in doubt replace them.
  7. My Mk4 needs a new coolant reservoir cap. It’s now pushing 90k miles and 19 years old. Fits ok but the unit rattles... Also I’m loosing coolant, not a lot but I suspect it’s more on cold short journeys...the cap is probably venting over time. I haven’t topped it up for a while. No leaks and the water pump is not too old. I’ve tried to replace before with a First Line part, it didn’t fit. Just would not go on. I didn’t like the quality at all either. This time, I bought a QH part checking again the fit to spec. It didn’t fit. No way. It’s made for other applications and I don’t know if the Mk3 is different...adding the Mk4 to the list is incorrect. I’m hoping to source one from Lexus Birmingham as they give a discount...it’ll be £35 instead of £42. Quite a strong amount. I reckon I got a seal as I applied Vaseline to the contact surface and rubber seal...undoing it the next morning there was a short hiss of released pressure...no I don’t believe it’s gasket failure pressure...😁 Did a fabulous 200+mile trip on Saturday and as usual the mainly motorway mileage was eaten up in comfort. Anyone had this issue?
  8. Hi Given that there’s nothing amiss with your suspension...you’ll need to get it to a tyre place to straighten via the steering arms and check the geometry. Some shops have difficulty in getting it right so test it before you drive off...mines a tad off and it’s like looking at a picture, crooked on the wall.🤪
  9. I’d go and get it tested. It’s the cold test/recover rate whatever they call it that counts. Test will find a failed cell too.
  10. Every time this piggy went to market to buy a battery...local Lexus gave me a good price and unit does the job. I don’t do much mileage. The spec and cold start specs are spot on. On wife’s Jag I had a well known carparts co battery and suffered voltage leak. Also...it’s a known Jag fault so I freaked a bit until an auto elec said...no don’t buy those batteries. A common issue. I wasn’t sure but said auto factor were very good and replaced unit with me paying few bob upgrade for a premium unit. Result? Sorted. Careful what you buy.😉🤔
  11. Oh sorry to hear. This is tricky. Batteries are good at expiring at the due time. Disconnected batteries probably last the same time as a working one. I know it’s not logical and I stand to be corrected. I’ve had great batteries that do well with little use connected up...and bad ones. Lexus ones are ok. I think 3-4 years...just buy a new one.
  12. I didn't have the nerve to try the very cheap ones you can pick up - they are probably ok. Mine was a branded one, Pagid I think for around £40. If you get to your pads in time you don't need to replace them...🙂 A few folk do too much work around removing them and not replacing and rigging the circuit to remove the light... They're a useful function and worth having.
  13. Sound like the brake wear sensor itself. As the pads get thin it rubs away the sensor exposing the connector to make the metal to metal circuit that trips the light. The sensor is finished at this stage. Replacing the sensor will fix this.