GS Sport

Right, Toyota have recommended changing all 6 coils! When I questioned further they said they had only actually tested 4 but as 4 were failing recommended replacing all 6. I asked if this would definitely fix the problem as they quoted nearly £900.00!!! They said they were pretty confident but couldn't guarantee it. My feeling is that if all 6 coils were failing there would be some kind of warning light because the emissions would be all over the place and secondly I'd be noticing a dramatic lack in performance (which I'm not). So at the moment I don't have a clue. They could be right as they say it's happened a few times with the Toyota Hybrids but £900.00 is a hell of a gamble. Think for now I'll just put up with it until either it gets worse or some system error comes up.

OK, put the car into Toyota today just for an initial look. The Technician came out and luckily I could replicate the judder and knocking. He said that they had had a few faulty coils with the Toyota Hybrid range and this produced a similar symptoms. He said the knocking could actually be unburned fuel igniting in the the exhaust causing vibration through the car. The car's going in next Wednesday so they can test all the coils (one per cylinder these days). I'll post the results. I have heard that the Valve Spring recall problem could also produce lumpy idling because of the weak springs not fully closing the valve but mine had this work done last year when they started the recall so shouldn't be that. See what happens Wednesday.

Hi, yes mine has what I describe as a raw idle, quite noisy with quite a violent shake when it starts/stops when warm but have never heard a knock from underneath. Might pay to have it checked out. Yeah it's going tomorrow. Going to Toyota though, not Lexus as they were very unaccommodating for someone who works full time. My theory is they're the same company and both build hybrids so I'll see what they say first. I'll update if they find anything.

I have a 2007 GS450h and I've noticed that once the engine has warmed up if I stop in traffic and the engine doesn't cut out that the idle is quite lumpy passing vibration through the steering wheel and gear stick. I've also noticed that when it runs like this there's something knocking underneath the car. I'm concerned this could be something to do with the Hybrid inverter/converter. Has anyone else experienced this lumpy idling?

Ok Did it today !!!!!!!must be the only one here!!!!!?????? Care to message me the details? Been thinking about trying for a while but some of what I read put me off a bit as it seemed pretty complicated by I might get a mate to look at it with me if I had the instructions. Have you enabled just the Sat Nav or the DVD player as well? I'm not interested in running films on the move but audio DVD's are awkward to navigate without the use of the screen. Thanks.

Here's a bit of trick I've noticed for increasing the old MPG's - switch the heating off! If like me you do very short journey's to work the car's engine operates partly to provide heat for the cabin so when you stop at the lights instead of the engine running as it's still warming up it cut's out. This also applies to slow moving traffic. In the winter this is particularly noticeable. Try it yourselves, before the engine temp has reached the midway point when you're sitting at the lights and the engine is running simply press the off button to switch off the heaters and your engine will most likely cut out. This may seem a little extreme but if you do very short journeys does the car ever really get that warm before you reach your destination? What I do is switch the heating off and switch the heated seats on! As others have said what MPG's you get really does depend on driving style and the type of road and conditions but I have noticed for me this method can increase my MPG by about 5.

Thanks for the info Tigerfish :D

Thanks all. I rang lexus this morning and got quoted £61.00 + vat per side for the parts. I've decided to give non-genuine parts a go from a local motor factor, £19.00 ea + vat. At a 3rd of the cost even if they only last a couple of years they seem to be a wise choice. For that money it's worth doing even if it isn't the cause of the clonking. Thanks for the guide to the uppers, does anyone know of a guide for the lowers on the MkI? Cheers, GS Sport.

I'm getting a clonking noise from my front nearside wheel on slow speed turning and am guessing it's going to be ball joints as this is a common fault. Has anyone had these done recently and if so what was the fitted cost? I normally have work done at my local Toyota dealer rather than Lexus as the rate seems to be massively different. I would be interested to know the fitted cost of lower ball joints and upper. From what I've read the lower joints are considerably cheaper than upper. I would also be interested if anyone has done the lower joints themselves to find out how difficult it is? I guess keeping the alignment is a problem, is a geometry set-up definitely required after replacing the joints or can existing settings be kept by marking? Thanks in advance, GS Sport.

That is the decal they supplied to me. Excuse my ignorance but what is TTE?

Is your raised sticker in the same place as the decal (ie. just below the near side fog light) because the one I had was tiny, only about an inch long and the sport logo wouldn't have really been legible without getting close?

Thanks a lot, I may take you up on that. Lexus are currently looking at it again, if I don't get any joy I'll get in touch.

Sorry 300 Sport I returned to Lexus just before Christmas but if you want one I've listed the part number above.

Thanks, I was considering getting some made as I have the quarter light ones to use as a pattern but wasn't sure where to get them done. I'll see how I get on with Lexus on Monday with the untried part numbers and then if no joy will def see Neil. Thanks for your help :D

Thanks again for your help, I'll let you know how I get on :)

Those part numbers aren't what I've been sent so I might try that on Monday. So far I have been sent the following parts: GBNGA-5E099 (Sport Badge Silver) - contains 2 quarter light stickers GBNGA-5E098 (Sport Badge Smoke) - contains 2 quarter light stickers 01001-01191 (Sport Badge Kit) - contains 2 quarter light stickers and one 1" raised black sticker (looks like interior sticker) Thanks again.

Thanks for trying. Lexus Cheltenham have contacted technical and on the third attempt I was sent a 'bumper kit' which sounded promising but it contained another 2 quarter light stickers and a small (1" long) black raised plastic sticker which looks like something that would be stuck inside on the dash, not that I have one on mine. They must produce them as the quarter light stickers are exactly the same just sticky on the wrong side. I'll keep trying. Thanks again.

1997 P reg, MkI

Has anyone ever replaced the Sport logo on the bottom of the front bumper on a GS300 MkI? I have contacted Lexus and on 3 occasions have been sent the rear quarter light stickers which although are correct in design are sticky on the wrong side due to being applied from the inside. If anyone has managed to get this part from Lexus could you pass on either the part number or the dealership that you purchased from so that I can give them a try? Ta very much :)

I had very simular symptoms and mine was that the rear tracking was considerably out. Above 30 the sound disappeared however mine wasn't temp related. Thought it was worth mentioning though.

Sorry, Just realised yours is a MkII

I Know you have the job sorted now but just to say it is possible to remove the MkI headlights without touching the bumper, I did it today because I have the common condensation in the headlight problem. You remove the black trim panel across the top of the headlight which is secured by 3 cross head screws. Then remove the 3 visible securing bolts (10mm I think). Then remove the cross head screw between the headlight and the indicator which holds the indicator in place. Once this screw is removed carefully pull the indicator towards the front of the car. A half turn removes the indicator bulb from the housing. Once the indicator is out you can remove the last headlight retaining bolt. Now you need a short (max 60mm long) small cross head screw driver to remove a small clip attached to the headlight (this is the clip that stops you maneuvering the headlight out because it catches on the mounting point of the indicator). Unclip the two main electrical connections and remove both the dipped and high beam bulbs. You should now be able to maneuver the headlight from the car. Don't forget to drape cloths over the bumper and wing to prevent scratching. Hope this makes sense. If anyone needs any further explanation please let me know. I might even get some pictures taken to help make it clearer. Just thought I'd post this as most advice for removing the headlights seems to suggest removing the bumper. GS.

Thanks for the info, will look at changing to the correct grease.

Just to let you know did the job today using a 21mm socket, the 19mm doesn't fit over the sliding pin. Ended up using a brand new gater as I think I mis-shaped the other one trying to get it on and it wouldn't hold in position. The copper grease I applied two weeks ago had dried up pretty quick though, whether it's because the gater wasn't sealed properly I don't know. Just have to keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't start over heating again due to a ceased sliding pin. Hope this info helps.

No other way other than the 19mm socket, will give it a go when I get chance and let you know how successful it is.