PVSLS400

Yes the tech hooked up the lines in reverse to get the blockage out. How they tested the solenoid was, they did what i did hook up 12v directly to solenoid with car running and in park and see if you have steering but they went one step further and disconected 2 small lines on rack and powered up solenoid no fluid came out of lines. Tech manual says solenoid should be 6 to 7 ohms well my solenoid was readind 7.7 when i tested it and they tested it it was reading over 9 ohms so the blockage was causing solenoid failure. My thoughts were the screen on solenoid was missing chunks and those metal parts went somewhere in the line. The solenoid from TAP was used but they stated car had under 50k so its fairly new. No tech didnt secure steering wheel was what dealership stated, i feel bad but hes a buddy and a case of beer fixed him up right away!

Well after all the work i did it turned out to be a combination of things The PPS Solenoid was toast, the new pump was toast and there was a piece of metal in the line so i assume it was caused from a cheap autozone pump. Toyota put the solenoid on and replaced the pump and charged me 275.00 for the complete fix, But in the process the tech working on the LS broke his hand while working on car. He had car hooked up to high pressure in reverse and metal shot out, and hand in was between steering wheel and colum. did not have seatbelt securing wheel I got Solenoid here for 250.00 http://www.taprecycling.net/index.php

here you go This company is located in the US but this is all OEM http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...amp;catalogid=1

Its not bad if you do it in sequence. First time i did it it took about 4 hrs, second time about 1.5 hrs. Pull Wheels Get Calipers and Pads off Soak all bolts with penetration lube such as WD 40, I use PB Pull Tie Rods Then: First thing you have to do is pull pps solenoid. it is located on rack,underneath the steering nuckle and only thing with 2 wires. I used vice grips and it came off fairly easy, unplug it Next get a line wrench 17mm and disconect 2 big lines behind pps solenoid on rack, note there are 4 solid lines on rack 2 small on front of rack facing the back of the car(do not remove just a waiste of time) I found it easier to break line bolts with the 2 wrench cheater be sure to have a drip pan ready fluid will pour out Pull drivers seat all the way up and stick seatbelt through the steering wheel and connect it, then push seat back untill the seatbelt is taught and you cant turn steering wheel.THIS IS IMPORTANT for allignment plus you will not dammage youre air bag and clock spring Disconect steering nuckle,2 12mm bolts.once bolts are out use flat head screwdriver and tap knuckle up untill its off rack. Remove steering dampining shock Remove the side that has 1 bolt,The other side is part of the mount and cannot be taken off at this point There are 4 big bolts and nuts that hold rack to frame 2 on left 2 on right take those out dampining shock will be lose and hanging. save the shock and metal clamp Last is remove the 4 outer transmission mount bolts and remove. Dont worry transmission wont fall. Jack up transmission about 3 to 4 inches. slide rack to the right or in the US left remove 2 rubber mounts then pull out. Removal is complete! Reverse to install. would recomend replacing outer tie rods since you are doing all this work. On the Tie Rods make note of distance from where the threads start on the rack to where tie rod bolt is this will also make it easier to allign Get a Allignment done

hey all I am in a situation and cant go any further. to start off i have done tons of searching between here amd CL. First off my 90 ls had a wine in the power steering pump nothing bad or annoying but then i lost power then it comes off and on depending on its mood so i do a flush and clean resivor screen and the pps solenoid screen, Next i meter the sensor and get 7.0 ohms of resistance then i hook the sensor directly to 12v for a few seconds and feel it click. seems to be fine so i put it all back together and it does the same thing great steering accept when you come off the highway to the off ramp and steering gets hard accelerate up and its fine again. So i put a new Pump on and wallah no wine steering is silky smooth for about 10 miles my customer that wants to buy car gets in and takes it for a spin and it acts up again but no wine or anything but no power so i dive it and i have complete failure no power at all so i flush system again thinking some air got in magicly or i just didnt get it all out on the test drive. i go to the tech manual next and it states to replace rack so today i get new rack and waist 4 hrs removing and installing new rack and i think to myself sweet tech manual says 6 hrs to replace so i am ahead of the game here add fluid dextron III i am sure there is no air, fluid is at proper level turn the wheel and nada nothing.I know pump is working because it shot out fluid out the return line in great pressure. Hopefully some one has had the same problems and can give me some advise! my last resort is to fork out 300 for a new solenoid but i just spent 150 on pump and 440 on rack which is not the problem Help Help Help Help Thanks

I had same exact problem in my 90 ls. With the days of trouble shooting i came to the conclusion it was the switch that is on the trans, that senses if the car is in park or neutral to start. but the sensor is impossible to get to unless you drop the exhaust and pull trans. So i ran a new wire from starter wire in fuse relay box under the bonet just cut wire that would have gone to relay and attach new wire. Then i sodered the other end to the ignition switch on dash that sends 12v to the starter ecu. no issues and dont have to worry about ecu failure or any other component failure on this system, one drawback is you lose the security feature that disables car in event of theft. Here theft is not a issue and thats why i have insurance!