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peasoup39

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Everything posted by peasoup39

  1. Down sizing my car collection so the SC is up for sale. Details in the cars for sale section of the forum
  2. I have just purchased the rear sensor from Germany via ebay. For 30 quid plus carriage its an awful lot of kit. As well as the wheel sensor it also includes all the brackets and the hight level adjust so its was not a quick job to fit according to my garage man. Since having the car it has always had the abs pulse when about to stop and this recently got worse as sometimes the abs system would rattle even when i had left off the brakes. Hey presto all my lights are now out and the pulsing has gone. What a result for such little money. Having said that the car is now going up for sale. I have loved the last 2 years of ownership but at my age its now time to downsize as i no longer go on long trips . Got to get the personal number off first but that may take a few weeks with the DVLA being so far behind with their work. Still at least i can enjoy it for the next few weeks.
  3. I am having a similar problem on my 2005. Ever since i have used it over the last 2 years when i brake just before the car stops at say 5mph i get the pulsing through the brake pedle as if i am on ice and the wheels are locking up. Braking is fine but this "whiring noise" is a bit of a pain. If i brake heavily it does not occur.In the last week the abs light came on and my garage tested it and found a fault with the rear left sensor. Stripped it out cleaned it and reset lights. Since then the lights come on intermitantly and the "whiring" is back even more pronounced just as the car comes to a halt. If the sensor is faulty then i can get it changed but it does not explan why i have always had this pulsing as the car is about to stop as the ABS lights have not come on before. If anyone has a rear left sensor going spare or is stripping a car i would be happy to buy it
  4. Can anyone advise where to get wheel sensors from without paying lexus prices.
  5. I was hoping to buy a later cat but put off by the fact that after 2005 the road tax almost doubles. For a car that is used rarely i am happy with my 2005 high mileage car which is in lovely condition and i am not precious about leaving it parked anywhere or where i take it. Ok i have had to do a few jobs like top wishbones and shocks but a small price to pay for such a fabulous driver. Added to that the top down makes it even more special and in comparison to other newer cars i paid peanuts for it. What's more my wife loves it which is a surprise seeing its such an old car. I have never been into new cars much preferring high quality older cars that usually have a big engine so sell at reasonable prices and just go on and on. With low annual mileage additional petrol cost is not an issue as the car has not depreciated in value looking at the adverts for similar or older cars on line
  6. Any advice on where to source front shock absorbers please. Looked at ebay but not much choice.
  7. Just had a nice trip to London and back in the SC. First long trip since lockdown. I had forgotten that it is such a nice tireless way to travel. Also noticed how bad our roads have become in general with lots of potholes even on the motor ways. I sensed that the car was a bit bouncy and will be checking out the shock absorbers later this week. If they do need replacing some time soon any recommendations as to where to source them from without paying silly money
  8. Yes it looks like that and its double filament so its a T20. Thanks Steve Thanks to all for the usual knowledgeable response Just ordered a few
  9. No its not a bayonet type. Its all glass with just the wires coming out the bottom and bent up over the glass.
  10. This might sound a silly question but i need a replacement brake light bulb and not sure which one it is. eBay only show bulbs from the States specifically for an Sc with a reference to type T6.5. Cannot find this reference on uk suppliers. Surely they should be easily available in the UK. What am i missing?
  11. When i had a set of tyres recently i found that the centre wheel trims with the ten bolts holding them on had most of the shoulder that the bolts go up against had sheared off. Although all the bolts were there the trim was only secured by 3 or 4 of the bolts. The centre trims are only made of plastic so over the years these had broken but gone unnoticed. I discovered on ebay some 17.5mm internal caps that are stoppers used on test tubes. The ebay number is110902657651. They come in packs of 20 so two packs at £5.00 each will do all the bolts. I punched a hole in the centre, put the bolt in and the shoulder on the stopper fits firmly onto the wheel trim. i also put them on the bolts where the trim shoulder still existed to make every bolt look the same. They are white in colour and when fitted do not look out of place saving me the mega cost of 4 new wheel trims.
  12. No the ones i need are as fitted around 2005 with 10 bolts holding them on. The wheel nuts do not secure them as they are plastic, you can remove the wheel without removing the trim from the wheel
  13. May be the same thing. This is the 5 spoked plastic centre trim about 12" diameter that is held on by 10 off 8mm socket head cap screws. If you are changing the wheel then they stay in situ but if fitting new tyres they have to be removed to get the shaft and nut of the balancing machine through the centre of the wheel. The 10 bolts are set in 18mm diam recess in the trim and the recesses have a flange at the bottom with a 10mm hole to take the bolts. The flanges break off inside but you cannot see this until you take the trim off. One of my trims had 6 of these flanges sheared off so only holding on with 4 bolts. I am sure there are a number of SC's driving around with the same problem but owners are unaware
  14. Looking for a set of plastic wheel trims for my SC with 18" wheels. Can anybody assist please.
  15. Oh i do love forums. The combined technical knowledge is boundless. All you need is the right person to read you post. A contributor once described these little procedures as a "lexus dance". I have tried two before. First to programme a key with the accelerator and the brake. That failed. Next it was to get rid of the beeper on the seatbelt that was sounding off all the time. That failed also. I am happy to say i have at last learnt one of the Lexus dances. Tried the procedure above and i have successfully reset the zero point and lights are out. Thank you both for your great assistance.
  16. Have a n issue with VSC light coming on. When i start the car the lights go out. drive 5 yards and they come on. Had them checked on diagnostic and no electrical faults could be found either when stationary or when mobile and all sensors worked electrically. Had a test redone at another garage and on mobile test all graphs stayed the same. however it did then show a fault code. C1336. Zero point calibration of deceleration sensor undone. Can someone explain what this means and how it can be rectified. Did try to get one of the sensors out to check the reluctor ring but it was stuck and made of plastic so i did not want to break it if it was not at fault. I have been advised that the chances are it is a split or corroded reluctor ring but it is annoying the tests could not highlight which wheel is causing the problem
  17. Now sourced the parts from AUTODOC a german company for the sum of about £20.00 delivered for a set of 4. Still awaiting delivery so will keep you posted.
  18. They are located in Russia/ Ukrane so no better than having to ship from the US. Still not found a UK supplier who can supply valve only. Supplier found in UK can only supply complete valve with TPMS which i do not need. I really only need the sealing washers.
  19. Have two wheels that have slow punctures. Taken it to my local tyre depot who found leaky valve stems. He offered to remove them and try to reseal but warned that there may be a problem with the threads which would prevent them from being reinstalled. I agreed and want to buy new units that will accept the pressure monitors. Looking on ebay its seems that are only available from the states and made by DORMAN. Anyone aware of a UK supplier
  20. The lights are on all the time and i cannot put them out with the switch. However when i last took it to my garage i did switch off before he tested it. I will try that tomorrow Thanks Seal on the fuel cap is fine and cap is always tight. Whats the relevance of that to this problem?
  21. A few days ago my VSC light and the off light came on. Took it to my garage for OBD plug in but it showed no faults. Repeated the test after a few days and still it showed no faults and would not put the lights out. Anybody any idea where i start to look with no fault located.
  22. Since found out that it has killed the beeper even if i do not put my seat belt in. but warning light still flashes if i have not done up my belt So happy to have stopped the beeping so not going to mess with it in case it starts again. Rear Seats never used so no problem
  23. Ordered the techstream software and cable on e bay but not downloaded it yet.so not tried to disarm the beeper However had a lightbulb moment and plugged in the rear seat belts. He presto the cpnstant beeping stopped.There is nothing on the backseats to make them sound but who cares the problem has gone. Now i can worry about the boot release.
  24. The boot opening i will investigate when i have a chance but at the moment it is not important. What is driving me crazy is that the seat belt beeper is sounding all the time even when the seat belt is attached and the light goes off. I have spent the best [part of the day going through the forums solution of disabling the beeper. There are several different suggestions for different models but the ones for the SC are fairly consistent. ignition on.. with odometer set to ODO. press reset button for 12 seconds and whilst still holding the reset button put the seat belt in. This should bring up b-off. Well mine does not. i have tried every time interval from 10 to 45 seconds , switching ignition on and off twice before starting and nothing i try can bring up the b-off so i can get rid of the beeper. Where am i going wrong? As it is beeping all the time it may be a fault in the system which is preventing me from resetting but as good as the Mark Levinson system is i would rather drive in silence than have the loud radio on to cancel out the beeps
  25. I agree On second inspection it does not operate when glove box is closed it just looked like the small rubber bumper aligned with it on closure. I have switched the button on and off in the glove box it makes no difference to the the boot opening on the normal button. According to the manual there is a wire pull cable iin the rear centre box but i cannot find it on mine. Fortunately the key remote still works so i am not stuck. Read up on the forum about deleting the seat belt buzzer buy using the odometer switch and inserting the seat belt into the holder. Tried several times and it did not work. I was amused by one forum member who described the procedure as "Another Lexus dance". It appears that there are loads of ways of setting , adjusting , pogramming etc using a variety of buttons and sequences. I have already tried to programme a new key using the brake and accelerator and failed at that as well
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