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Everything posted by Matus

  1. In in most EU countries we can drive 130 kph and +10 is tolerated. These are GPS measured speeds, so in fact we can drive almost 150kph legally (car speedometer reading). At 150kph we have over 2.100rpm on sixth, so for this it is. If you drive under 130kph, just stay on 5th, it is more economical.
  2. Can you please open the bonnet with engine idling and have a look for me, whether this idle pulley rotates? Because mine does not rotate, so now I don't know whether it is stuck or it is OK (because what I see is maybe the cover of moving parts.) it is the one visible next to the cooling reservoir. thanks
  3. Yes it can be the DPF blockage, but it can be also something else. You drive a lot on motorways, and you have only 85k - it should not be the DPF. First you have to discover, what is the problem - you can diagnose it with any cheap OBD II reader. Once you have the error code, you will know what it is, and you can start fixing it.
  4. I wouldn't remove it. I don't know how it is in the UK, but in Europe the removal of DPF is a big topic now - because it is illegal and many people are solving this problem with removal. The car inspection companies (like TUV in Germany) all over Europe are forced to buy new measurement devices, to detect missing DPF. In Austria and Germany the police is sometimes measuring on the street. If they find out, you get a big fine and they remove you the number plates. Try to solve it first. Let clean the Differential pressure measuring unit hoses - the unit is located to the left in the back of the engine compartment, over the DPF - with two black rubber hoses going to it. Then get new ECU software from Lexus - they've updated the code to reduce the smoke (they've updated it 2-3 years ago, so check if you have it already installed or not) If your only problem is the smoke, do those two things - the smoke will be decreased (it will not disappear!), but this is still better then removing it and later have troubles - IMHO.
  5. exactly yes. The point is that you can be running in high revs for 100 miles, but the system will not start the regeneration. Because, as you said, the ECU decision is dependable on the blockage % of the filter, not on the revs you are currently running on. now you either lie, or don't know what you are talking about. If you don't believe me, let the lexus technician connect to your car with the Denso Techstream and go for a ride. And watch the temperatures in the DPF. If you are a man, you will return here with apologies.
  6. No. You need to connect via OBD and turn on the regeneration in the diagnostic software. It will also show you when it is finished. Here you can also watch temperatures in the DPF, so you will clearly see, that it is not necessary to run on 2500rpm or higher - for keeping the temperature high you need constant revs - around 2000 is enough.
  7. in such driving conditions I definitely recommend forced regeneration.
  8. me too! no. If the system runs correctly, then it won't be regenerating every day (unless you do ~300 miles per day).
  9. Unfortunately nowadays it is quite usual, that people (like you) post their thoughts as facts - without an argument. It is very dumb to accept everything said on the Internet as a true. And it is common, that these people start to kick around and insult others, instead of finding arguments, or accepting that they are wrong. As we can see above. To the topic: for correct and fast regeneration it is ideal to keep constant revs. 2.000rpm is enough. Accelerating and decelerating makes the regeneration longer, because the temperature goes up and down. The worst is city driving - it is very hard to keep the temperature up.
  10. mrr1, you are wrong. The conditions for regeneration are: water temp over 60deg and revs 1.150-2750. Stop saying that you need 3.000 rpm, it is completely wrong. You don't know what you are talking about.
  11. dual mass flywheel has nothing to do with the power. It was designed to help smooth out the engine - to help eliminate vibrations. Converting to standard flywheel may be OK - some people say it may harm something (clutch and silentblocks) but I don't think so. Anyway, I hope you will post your experience after a year or two. Regarding the servicing costs, it is individual. I am not sure whether you can compare it across the market, because each marque has different servicing intervals. If you switch to standard garage, you should not pay more than 300 pounds. All you need to have whole car serviced is this: oil Mobil ESP Formula 5w-30 - 6l braking liquid DOT 3 - 1l coolant ethylen glycol - 9l transmission oil API GL-4 / GL-5 SAE 75W-90 - 1,8l difefrential oil SAE 75W-85 1,1l oil filter air filter A/C filter diesel fuel filter this all should be changed every 40.000 miles. And every 10.000 miles* just the oil with the filter. *this is recommended if you do short rides or tow a trailer. If you drive mostly on motorway, you can change the oil according to the automatic service interval calculated by the car.
  12. I am afraid that for 400 quid you get the clutch pack but withoud DMF. While the Lexus's DMF costs here about the same ~1200 eur from spare part specialist (original from lexus is about 2.000eur) the DMF for Avensis DCAT costs from the same specialist about 10% less. LUK makes that... so rather doublecheck how it is.
  13. I repeat what I wrote: 2.0 tdi is from reliability point of view the worst engine nowadays and the fact, that some DCAT engines have problems with head gasket or egr does not affect this statement. You expressed a hope, that lexus should have used audi engines - so I wanted to wake you up. Thanks god lexus haven't done it. BTW gearbox has nothing to do with the engine reliability. If the gearbox does not suit you, you should have not bought this car as I believe buying the car was your own decision. If your decision was wrong, do not blame the car but yourself.
  14. Now I don't understand. You do not know, that current 2.0tdi is the worst 2 litre diesel engine these days from reliability point of view? And not only from owners complaints, but this is conclusion of many tests, including 100.000km test of ADAC (respected german agency). So either you are joking, or telling something about you do not have a clue. However regarding bmw, your dreams will come true, as toyota and bmw have agreed, that toyota will provide hybrid technology to bmw and bmw will provide diesel technology for toyota.
  15. Jamie, you have problem with the engine. In some situations it is possible to have similar consumption as IS250 but no way that where you have 31mpg the IS250 has 45. In fact, 45 in IS250 is possible only on motorway with 60mph max. In these conditions the IS220d should be around 51mpg.
  16. so, test results. There are 10 winter tires, one all year and one summer. I will write always the best value of winter tires (W) and then all year (A) and summer (S) braking on snow 50kph W 28m A 33m S 68m Aquaplaning at speed S 93khp W 92kph A 79kph braking on wet road 100kph S 46m W 52m A 53m braking on dry road 100kph S 40m A 46m W 47m
  17. yes, you ****** me off a bit, but I am fine now :-) later today, I'll post the test, where you will see the results, which have opposite results than you wrote. The reason of the softness of winter tire even when freezing stands in the silicone included in the compound. But, for last couple of years, most of top summer tires do also contain silicone... So, with softer compound, the summer tire has higher contact surface with the road and that's why better result of summer tire also when freezing. It is good idea to fit winter tires, when it is getting cold, because you never know, when it starts to snow or freeze - and if every driver goes for the tirechange in one day, the city will be full of queues in front of the garages... I'd say, 7 degrees is the temperature, when the winter tire is not far worse than summer tire anymore...
  18. I can assure you, that at any temperature, you won't break on wet road for 10 seconds from 45kph. Those are snow conditions. The reason why I am so sure are my personal experiences (I drive in various conditions (from -20 till +40) and since 1999 I use also winter tires). Furthermore, this experience is confirmed by tire test (by german magazine, which I have at home). Interestingly, it is a big problem to find comparison tests like this, because 7 degrees marketing is important for rubber industry. Also, there are only few tests showing, that winter tires are quite dangerous at temperatures 25 and higher. Winter tires are really great on snow and very good on dry and wet road in winter times, just it is important to respect 2 things: 1. always fit all 4 2. do not overestimate their abilities sorry for this...
  19. the first video - the surface is not a wet road, but simulation of snowy road, dude. the second video - yes, the winter tire is able to stop on ice on less then 50% of the length when comparing with summer tires. Isn't that "tenths of percent"?
  20. What tosh, I mean everything you say here is wrong, not slightly wrong but every single assumption written is absurd. Absurd: adjective. 1. utterly or obviously senseless, illogical, or untrue; contrary to all reason or common sense; laughably foolish or false: I am waiting for explanation with facts. thanks
  21. We will choose to disagree then, as my experience when living and driving in Norway was that the winter tyres were far superior on cold roads, whether wet or dry. Have I said something different?
  22. the 7 degrees thing is only marketing. Winter tires are better only on snow and ice. Summers are better even when cold on dry or wet road. Also aquaplaning resistance is higher on summer tires. BUT - the advantage on wet and dry road with summer tires over winter tires is in single percents. The advantage on snow or ice with winter tires over summer tires is in tenths of percents... To fit winters only on rears is nothing but stupid. I'd rather not be able to climb a hill, than climb it and than crash going down because of no braking/steering possibility.
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