Matus

the empty tire was spinning quicker than other 3, so ECU thought it is ABS sensor fault...

it still may be in the memory...

difficult question. I drive on 2nd, but I doubt this is more fuel-economical than 3rd, but 2nd doesn't make stress to the drivetrain and engine is much more responsive.

no, you can't. And the answer why is very clear: curb weight avensis 1.465kg curb weight IS220d 1.660kg smaller car, but heavier. This is the price for rear wheel drive, extra toys, extra silence and better passive safety.

not necessarily, obd II is standard interface, lots of independent garages have device to connect and read. Other problem is, that it will give you only error number and I don't know if independents have list with errors. However, here is something (it is not all, but at least something) http://www.toyoty.nolimit.cz/diagnostika-obd-2/obd-2-diagnosticke-kody.html

you must connect it to OBD II reader, to get the info what error it is.

I don't think it will help as IS220d has the dump valve - I suppose every turbocharged car has it as a standard. The difference between standard and aftermarket is, that standard doesn't blow to atmosphere, and is very silent. Try to drive with open windows and I am sure you will hear it working.

I'd like to be in your shoes

I'd go for ISF, because it is not just about the HP. IS-F is whole different - brakes, suspension, gearbox, bodykit, interior....

Actually, in the German Lexus Owners club has been explained that there is no learning mode for the driving style, but just the on-board computer logging the exact parameters of the engine to optimize performance. I only drive my Lexus, no idea what is under the hood (but I like it, hehe), but this is contradictory information. I am confused... the information about learning mode I wrote I do not have from any technical material or from lexus. I've never ask them. It comes from my experience with my car and also I confirmed myself with other Lexus IS, which I took for a drive. (the owner has high consumption and did not believe it is possible to reach my numbers). I did drive my style, but the results started to show up after 30 kilometers or so. On the other hand I have to say, that his car was more responsive. So I believe, that there is a learning mode, or re-calibration mode, or something like that. Maybe this is good for the diesel, but definately not for the petrol engine you're right, petrol engine needs different style of driving. Never use neutral gear when driving. First of all it is dangerous, and on top of this, you will actually increase consumption when doing so. Use a long gear instead. At least that is what experts at ADAC (sort of the German AA) claim (among others) and it makes sense from a technical point of view (it has been measured too, AFAIK). this claim is applicable for downhill driving, where it may be dangerous going on neutral (overheating brakes) and the claim with consumption is also correct (on neutral car consumps 1-2litres per hour, while going with gear without gas means 0 consumption). However, on straight road it is not dangerous and regarding consumption - if you want to use car inertia, it is up to the situation, whether use gear or not. For longer distance is better neutral - because you won't cover it with gear in, this means you will have to press accelerator and you will certainly have higher consumption than 1-2litres per hour (the absolutly lowest consumption I can reach on straight road is about 3.8l/100km) For shorter distance, for consumption matter it is better to brake also with the engine - but driver needs to be sensitive, otherwise the DMF flywheel may be stressed and this is very expensive part, this is why I do not recommend to brake too much with the engine. For average driver - brake with the engine only when going downhill.

mine works perfectly. haven't you guys changed the windscreen? I heard that when changing the windscreen, the rain sensor also has to be replaced...

PS: driving on low rews decreases the lifetime also: 1. crankshaft bearing 2. pistons and cylinders ovality increases sooner, which means loss of pressure and increased oil consumption

1200rpm is OK on 1st or 2nd gear. 3rd is able to pull the car, but very slowly. 4th, 5th, 6th? Never! Engine struggles - which is normal - these revs are not suited for driving. When the engine vibrates, DMF has hard work. It's lifetime is limited and more work it has, sooner it will have to be replaced. I wouldn't recommend drive like this to anyone.

and in few weeks you will be charged 3000€ for dual-mass flywheel change...

Col, I am also very happy with the car, but what I wrote is true. From my point of view, lexus stands for 5 years on one place. They haven't moved further. Except prius plugin hybrid, they haven't invented and put on the market anything.

the truth is, that lexus is sleeping. I don't know why. Look at the GS and compare it with e-class, a6 or 5er....GS looks like a historial piece. And IS? Soon will be replaced, and 220d engine has not had almost any change since it is on the market. I don't know why... 320d has had major change in the engine already 2 years ago. Pursuit for perfection has become not pursuit, but reverse? on the other end - UK market is probably not important enough for lexus. In europe nowadays you buy IS with gearbox ratios set between standard (long) one and sport one - ratios almost as on 320d (which are very good). And IS200d? I am still knocking on my head who came with this stupid idea.

gs450h is highly addictive :)

exactly... you english guys call it "RTFM"

that would be a miracle, wouldn't? anyway, the truth is that K&N states, that they filter up to 99% of original filters (paper), but with better breathing. if you don't drive in dusty conditions, K&N is not a problem. However dusty conditions is a problem , because the oil in K&N gets dirty very soon and then the filtrating effect decreases rapidly (the description of process inside the filter is more complicated, but I don't think it is necessary to describe it thoroughly) PS: original filter has to be replaced every 2nd large service (60.000kms) - this is too much according to my experience. Half is ideal.

nice one!

if he is sure, go to dyno, buy new exhausts, dyno again, and if there will be small or no difference, get your money back. I am always suspicious for such an easy tuning. With open exhaust, you might get some top-end power, but you might also loose middle range.

first you have to unbolt those 3 M10 which you highlighted, deconnect all hoses and remove whole housing out (it is quite tricky, because of all those suspension parts, but possible) then, with housing in your hands, there is one bolt/screw to demount and you will be able to open the housing. 2nd question - yes that should be it (can't remember though, its long time, but I remember clearly it was on the other side of differential) - give it a try, there is nothing to broke.

can't wait!

:winky:

guys, when I said "whingeing" I did not mean a situation, when somebody comes here with a technical problem. I don't mind that. However I do mind, when somebody complaints about poor space, small boot, non-foldable seats, unusable 6th, or that it consumps more than old golf, etc...