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Matus

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  1. my pleasure. it is difficult to estimate "correct" consumption in the city, because there are many variables. I can go through city with 5.5l/100km and also 11l/100km - depends on the traffic.
  2. yeah, finally. that is the reason, why I come to this forum rarely - people just whinge all the time. They do not test the car before buying and complain about things, which are their fault at first place. Second group are people buying cheap secon-hand cars and then complain that it consumps 2 litres more than their previous clio.. :duh:
  3. I am going to 2.500rpm, but if you need quick acceleration, it is correct to rev higher. 2all: how to pin this topic?
  4. release the bonnet (do not open, just release with the interior handle), lock the car, wait one minute and then try to open the bonnet. Alarm should go on.
  5. MOBIL 1 ESP FORMULA 5W-30 is recommended, if you go to 5w-40 it will be OK. It should be acea b3, which is higher grade than b1.
  6. you're going a step back, imho :) but I wish you good luck with "new" car
  7. switch on ignition to level 2 (do not start engine), and go with every window to the middle and back to the top. This will "reinitialize" the windows. Don't ask me why this is needed... btw RTFM :winky:
  8. Many people have problem with the consumption, so I decided I write couple of lines, how to reach higher MPG. Please note: everything written here is applicable to standard (non-sport) model IS220d. I have covered almost 50.000 miles with consumption in my signature. First of all, what consumption can you reach? Urban traffic: 37 – 28 MPG (7,5-10 l/100km) Extra urban at 65 mph (100km/h) – 5th gear: 51 MPG (5.5 l/100km) Motorway at 75 mph (120km/h) – 5th gear: 47 MPG (6.0 l/100km) Motorway at 81 mph (130km/h) – 5th gear: 43 MPG (6.5 l/100km) Motorway at 90 mph (145km/h) – 6th gear: 37 MPG (7.5 l/100km) In winter times (temperature below 3 degrees) the consumption rises (mpg decreases) by 5-10 MPG (0,5-2 l/100km) – depends on frequency of cold starts. Similar in very hot days (over 30) and short drives, where A/C goes on full power to cool down the interior. So – what to do? 1. servicing – have the EGR cleaned; maintain correct tire pressure;change the air filter every large service (every 20.000 miles / 30.000km) not every second as writes the manual 2. refuelling – you do not need to buy premium diesel, but avoid buying cheap supermarket diesel 3. before changing your driving style (point 4) do following – deconnect the car battery (minus pole is enough) for whole night*. This will reset some values in ECU and for next couple of miles it will be in learning mode, so it will accommodate quickly to new driving style. Do not to accelerate hard for next 30-40 miles. 4. everyday driving: keep rather higher revs then low, e.g. on 4th, 5th and 6th gear never accelerate under 2.000rpm. Lowest revs for maintaining speed are: on 3rd at 1.600rpm, 4th 1.800rpm, 5th 1.900rpm, 6th 2.100rpm. With full load increase by ~200rpm. The worse driving style is requiring high power out of low revs – e.g. on 4th at 1.600rpm – lot of fuel goes in the engine without effect, MPG is terrible and the car sluggish. Also, with under revved engine you can not feel your foot movement, because slight change of pedal doesn’t reflect in acceleration, but it does in consumption… If you need to accelerate quickly, go over 2.500rpm. 2.500-3.500 is ideal for overtaking etc… 5. for reasonable MPG in urban driving, you do not need to be slow, just think. This car has excellently small wind drag and it is very heavy – use it where possible. Between the lights you can go 300-500 meters on neutral gear and the speed will decrease from 38 mph to 33 mph (60-52 km/h) And this is all. When monitoring your actual MPG, reset AVG manually. (TANK AVG resets automatically after every fill-up, but AVG never resets automatically - only manually) When you reset the ECU and make ~50 miles, try small test – warm engine, ~15 degrees, no wind, plain road, set 3rd, go 38mph (60km/h), set cruise, reset AVG and you should be able to reach 67 – 74 MPG (3.8-4.2 l/100km). If not, there might be problem elsewhere. Good luck. * you won’t be able to lock the car with the remote, only with the key, so be careful. Actually, it is not needed to have it deconnect all night, but 5 minutes is not enough. How much is enough – I don’t know, but whole night works.
  9. there was a recall on power steering.
  10. http://www.spritmonitor.de/en/overview/26-Lexus/901-IS250.html?powerunit=2 http://www.spritmonitor.de/en/overview/26-Lexus/902-IS220.html?powerunit=2
  11. I think original hitch offered by lexus is Brink (made by Thule) but I've got, and reccommend, westfalia - the installation is very nice and without hook installed is almost invisible, in opposite with brink...
  12. chuckie> mine the same... pauls> how many rpm do you keep on motorway?
  13. you said important thing - nowadays middle class cars (like C5, accord, p508, even Laguna) look great and can be equipped very well. 5 years ago, when I was choosing my car, it was easy - there was only 3er and IS. The other were cheap looking rubbish. (including mercedes and audi). today I'd go for new Sharan, because my needs have changed, but if I needed "normal" car, that would be very difficult.
  14. I'd not remap. If you need lot of pull from low speed, change to 1st.
  15. is it possible that the sound is coming from the dashboard?
  16. That's what I'm thinking. I'm not paying £240 for a bit of rubber. Do you know how to disable them so that I can just stick the cap down? http://www.infoarena.com/lexus/HWMod/
  17. the headlamp washers are totally useless, so I'd not bother to have it functional.
  18. the result is very similar with this http://www.spritmonitor.de/de/uebersicht/26-Lexus/902-IS220.html?powerunit=2
  19. first rubber mats had recall, because they did not have the holes for hooks and they could get on the accelrator pedal and stuck it in pressed position. check if you have holes for hooks.
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