I think my fault was, i never switched off ignition after changing the settings. So setting to Honda, then putting ingnition once off and on should work, even not sticked on to a Honda before :winky: .
Throttle-position (the throttle controlled by ecu, not the "position" given with your foot) and A/F-correcture are given out in Volts or Graphs. If you know the band of them, you can set min/max and get accurate readings. O2-reading is the nernst-lambda, so it switches permanent from rich to lean, isnt much helpful. A wideband-lambda is really better. A/F-C is only a A/F-correctur-factor, dont know what this really means and is good for.
With the informeter you can read out:
speed
tacho
intake temp
water temp
ignition
O2
A/F correcture
intake manifold pressure
You can define how it is shown, by graph, numbers, circle and needle. Peaks are also captured until you switch ignition off.
A similar unit is the Blitz R-Vit. This can (with a separate unit) show you A/F by wide-band and is much more effective than the read-out of the lambdas fitted by Lexus.
heres a video i made, accellerating from 0 to 170 km/h
klick 10,7 MB