SteveLS400

The a/c condensor gets air flow when driving and makes the air colder.

Welcome. And its not a stupid question. What year is your car? If its a MKIII - 95 to 97 - make sure that it is fully in park with the selector across to the right. I can replicate your problem if the selector is not fully across to the right. Its also worth noting for future reference that you cannot remove the key if the selector is not fully home. Also, try starting it in neutral with foot on the brake. I presume you have already disabled the immobiliser. Again, this could cause your problem. When you have got it going, by all means have the condition of the battery checked but if you have have headlights which don't dim when you try to start, its not likely to be a battery issue thats causing the problem. Please let us know how you get on.

I am currently working on the backlight problem with Benfur. We've solved one issue but there are a couple of causes. Hope this will be resolved very soon.

Welcome indeed. Sir john mentions ride height. Mine still "looks" low at the rear but we covered it here http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=65638&st=0&p=711846&hl=height&fromsearch=1entry711846 and I'm happy its normal.

My next step was going to be replacement cluster - so you've probably saved me the hassle, thank you. It does seem logical that there is some other impediment. I can't see this circuit needing a relay; so what could it be? Equally confused. Just to add to the confusion re Temp. gauge mystery, I have looked at the wiring diagram. It shows a yellow and green wire from the temp. sensor to the gauge VIA A RESISTOR on the board. This diagam is marked 'combination meter for Europe' and has wiring colours. HOWEVER further on in the book there is a large fold out NON COLOUR section marked 'combination meter for RHD' this shows the yellow and green going straight to the gauge WITHOUT the resistor. PICK ONE!! Its right about the wire colour! I can't see why the LHD & RHD would be different on something as (in theory) simple as the temp gauge. The idea of a failed or failing resistor does have some merit. I will give this some thought, although I'm not demolishing any more of the car until I've solved the radio issue.

My next step was going to be replacement cluster - so you've probably saved me the hassle, thank you. It does seem logical that there is some other impediment. I can't see this circuit needing a relay; so what could it be? Equally confused.

Hey, what year is your car?

Were mascots ever factory fitted on LS400's or Celsiors?

Trust me, it will. If you need any guidance when you get it, PM me.

This is a picture of the display wiring. You will see what I mean about repairing http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb457/steveLS400/MKIII%20Pioneer%20Radio/Pre-Repair013.jpg

Thats good. The reason I asked is I am currently in the process of fixing the backlights on mine and could have helped in that regard. Repairs for the MKi,II & IV radios are relatively easy to find but Ive spent many hours putting together resource for the MKIII. I have'nt come across a repair for the LCD. The wiring is as fine as hair and there are so many so close, that soldering would be ni-on impossible. They are however replaceable. If you can locate one I can tell you exactly how to do it.

Hi and welcome to LOC. A fellow member, Benfur, breaks LS400's and may well have a mirror. At the top, go to Members, locate him and send him a private message (PM) from there. Tell him the colour/colour code and you may be in luck. With regard to your MKII mirror, us ordinary mortals aren't allowed to sell on the forum. Only "Gold" members have that priviledge for which they pay. Hopefully someone in need will spot this thread before its removed. I would approach this by performing a search - top right - and see if anyone has asked for a MKII passenger mirror recently, (I can't recall). You could then either reply to the thread or PM them. The alternative is to put it on fleabay.

The main reason that there are so few for sale on here is because we dont want to sell them; we love them. The secondry reason is that only "Gold" members have the right to sell on the forum. My status is "Established" (probably means long in the tooth ;) ) and like you, I havent paid to join. Gold members pay a subscription.

What a car indeed. The front seats are no different than others with heated seats - the elements break. These can be replaced, Ive never particularly bothered as the only time leather is uncomfortable is when its very hot - the a/c soon sotrs that. My rear seats work but you wouldn't be in danger of being burnt; they are not that hot. With regard to the radio, are you saying the only issue is there is no display to read? Does the backlight to the display work? This should be on anytime the unit is working. Next, do all (or any) of the buttons illuminate with the sidelights turned on?

There's a good few up t'north too :D Ditto

Just check you havent got a leak in the tank or fuel line area before you fill up. A visual inspection is all thats required. Once we know the exact mpg, I have no doubt help will be forthcoming.

It's rubbish. At £1.29/litre thats £5.86/gall so £25 is 4.27 gal which should give you over 100 miles.. I checked mine last week - 28.6 mpg. Your're getting about 9.6 mpg - about a third of what you should get. The only way to check is to fill up and note the mileage and fill up again.

Your're not just a pretty face :winky: Having a further go on Wednesday so hopefully the clock will provide the solution if I cant resolve the problem by then. It hadn't occurred to me that the permanent live would be fused. I'll replace any fuses that are associated with the radio as a precaution.

Guys When testing the permanent live to the radio, it was found to be only 10.7 volts (radio disconnected I might add). Testing the live feed from the ignition (Acc position), the reading was 11.9v. If the battery was duff, the readings should have been the same. The battery checked out fine with the engine running so it and the alternator are good. The 1st question is therefore, why is the permanent live giving such a low reading? Where's it going? The conditions for testing were identical and the tests repeated er repeatedly. Only the drivers' door was open thus illuminating the red warning light on the door and dash but this was consistent across the tests there was no other obvious load. The 2nd question is where can I pick-up a replacement permanent live without the obvious of running a wire directly to the battery and thus destroying the beauty that lurks under the bonnet? (Visions of old Fords and miles of nasty wires supporting 8-tracks and rev counters spring to mind).

That sounds extremly logical. So by having joined the 2, the systems "saying someones fiddling with the ignition, I'll go off." Its only a second or 2 to remove it with the soldering iron. I'm going to start a new thread about the low voltage.

Hi Stewart. You will never want another car again. Its good to have you here and look forward to your input.

Nothing would be the short answer. The slightly longer answer would be to put me in touch with a local supplier. I have emailed them and await a response but am not hopeful as the likelihood of them ever having seen one of these systems working is extremely remote and they have already indicated that I might like a new 1

Hi Simon. Thanks for responding. Thought I was seeing double then realised the time of your post ;) I remember you posting it. I found it and saved it. It doesn't go in to any detail - Remote/3 Circuits/Ultrasonic/Central Locking - it doesn't specify which 3 circuits so I will see what Thatcham can do.

Evenin' all I have hit upon a strange problem. The Pioneer unit didn't work?? After lengthy testing, the permanent live (PV) was only receiving 10.7v and I have no idea why. The only electrical "drain" was the drivers' door ajar and the red light on the door and the warning light on the dash. Giving the PV as near 12v as possible, radio works fine. Bridging the PV and the ignition feeds in the plug, gave the PV 12v. In theory nothing lost or gained as the ignition has to be at "acc" for the radio to work anyway. So, stripped radio down and soldered on the main pcb a feed to the PV from the ignition pin. Rebuild, plug radio in which appears to work fine. Leave radio proped in car, switch off ignition and lock up as normal and alarm sounds immediately. Why? Take radio out, lock up, no issue; alarm etc sets as normal. When I plugged the radio in there was a click from behind the main dash. Any ideas why? (The Scorpion being located behind the glove box, not the dash). Grateful for comments.

Yep, around 5 minutes and the needle is at 16 to 12 and stays there Wish mine did Mind today I have remade the joint for the 3rd time to the 4th sender. Hope that works when tested tomorrow.