SiWhite

On each of my IS250s I've had two sets of alloys swopped to corrosion and at least two of those were kerbed in some way. So yes, you are being fobbed off, and no, you are not limited to one set of replacement alloys per car.

Same here.

I have an 08 IS250 SE-L. I've left if for over two weeks whilst being away on holiday, business or whatever. Never had a problem with the Battery or starting in the way being described. In fact it was parked for 8 days in an Alpine resort last winter in temperatures as low as -20 Celsius and under 2 feet of snow by the end of the week. There was no problem in getting it started at all (thankfully I'd left the snow chains on as well, so getting it moving wasn't a drama either).

Just my tuppence worth.

hi

would some one have a pdf of the is220d original i.e, 2005-2008 and not the one found on the web for the new ones. Just want to see how they were advertised and equipment , consumption levels etc.

thanks

Will this do: Brochure pdf

don't worry about going round corners at that speed, i assure you the car won't run away with you, it is one of the best handling cars i have owned or driven. i regularly drive down country roads and have pushed mt 250 se-l at lot harder than 40 to 50mph without so much as a twitter, unless you have really bad tyres lol.

just relax and let it do its thing, it is far more capable than you will ever need :)

I have to say I don't agree so far, my old IS220d was much more stable. Taking bends at higher speed in the 250 feels like I am in a boat! Tyre pressures are correct, maybe it is just a soft suspension but I don't have anything like the same confidence in the 250 as I did in my 220d unfortunately, and it is certainly less fun! No doubt the 250 is built for civilised comfort only...?

Re the previous post, as an Advanced and "response" trained police driver I do know how to take bends but (just for example) in the "quick flowing series of fast bends" type roads which usually suit and allow continuous on/off throttle control mid corner it just does not feel right at all, as I say the car is rocking like a boat and does not feel glued to the road like other cars I drive, maybe it is just a characteristic I need to get used to or maybe a sporty Beemer would suit my driving style better (I'm not a mad boy racer though, always drive to the car and conditions - honest!)

I have a 2006/56 IS250 AUTO SE and the conditions you have described is what it feels like for me. I used to have both this and a IS220d SE as well and your right; the drive, the feel, the holding and ability to having confidence putting your foot down is definitely in the IS220d!

I've been to Lexus Leicester a number of times, first few times they said nothing is wrong with it. The next time I went for a drive with them and they the guy said it doesn't feel right. When I got the car back, felt exactly the same. They couldn't even comment on what work took place!!

It still suffers from it, and now I'm out of warranty!

Hmm. Interesting.

I've had both as well. My 250 handles every bit as well as the 220 I had - well, it did up until I changed the tyres recently. On the new tyres (Dunlop Sport Maxx as per the originals) it feels like it's all over the place and it now tramlines in a way it never did before. Bloody horrible. I suspect it's the tyres but also wonder if the front is out of alignment after hitting a pot hole or ten recently. The only other thing I've noticed is that the fronts are ZR rated as opposed to R rated originals (both the original and new sets of rears are R rated). Would this make such a difference?

How do you turn off AFS (what is AFS?) anyway?

AFS is turned on and off in the menu where you set the rev tac etc..

Learn something every day :)

How do you turn off AFS (what is AFS?) anyway?

It's the adaptive lighting - beam turns with the steering wheel.

Surely you'll have to do something as our lights point left (unless that's changed recently) - I think BMWs have a switch to knock the beam straight but not sure if Lexus has something similar.

Ahh the adaptive lighting - thought that was what was meant - hadn't seen the acronym before though (not that I remember anyway) let alone a way of switching it off!

The thing with the Xenon beams is that they're really quite flat (horizontally) and don't appear to be as directional as standard headlights (certainly those with lenses). I suppose there is a bias to the left but it doesn't seem that obvious to me.

I can't say I've ever heard that before.

I take mine abroad quite a lot but haven't yet used beam deflectors on it. I'm conscious of the problem of dazzling on-coming drivers but, to date, haven't been flashed by anybody (not that that really means anything I guess).

How do you turn off AFS (what is AFS?) anyway?

I run mine on both - sometimes at the same time. It doesn't seem to care.

With respect to a mixed tank though... I often put Shell v-power in the tank. There have been occasions where I've added half a tank of Esso standard unleaded. Why am I telling you this? Well because this mix gives me 41 / 42 MPG on a motorway at 'normal' speeds. At first I thought I was imagining things but I've tried a 50/50 mix several times now it always seems to give the same results. A full tank of either usually yields 35 - 38 MPG.

Go figure. Maybe it's a combination of the various additives that does the trick.

I think it's same as a 20K service. I've just had a 40K done but as I'm on a service plan I didn't have a bill to pay.

It`s not good, I would have thought that at the moment with all the adverse publicity that Toyota are getting that they would bend over backwards to help!!

I meant to also say that the rear tyre on the side of the caliper that has seized is down to 3mm, according to the dealer, and the other side is at 6.... you guessed it the tyres were changed at the same time!! But the dealer stressed too me that the tyres were under inflated saying my fronts were at 32 and the rears were at 34 psi. The fronts were changed 2 weeks ago at Kwik Fit so presumably they would have been fitted correctly.... or is it Lexus`s way of trying to riggle out of the problem??

The correct figures are 35psi front and 38psi rear (if your wheels are 17" that is) for normal use.

Re: the discs though. I'm having the same issue. Just had 40K service and was told that the front discs were lipped and need replacing. The pads are 70% worn. The woman I spoke to at Lexus Wolves told me that 40K was good for front disc life. Ho hum. They want £360 or so to replace the discs and pads. :shutit:

Checked mine last night and this morning from a starting temperature of -1 degrees centigrade. Initial cold idle was 1400 rpm, dropping to 1200 rpm almost immediately, then gradually reducing to 600-700 rpm at normal working temperature.

Mine is the same

Interesting stuff about the front discs.

I've just had a 40K service on my IS250 @ Lexus Wolverhampton. They told me that I'll be needed new front pads and discs in the next 3K - 4K miles. Expected cost is in the order of £360. Wolves seem to be a pretty good dealership but discs wearing out this early seems quite odd to me. There's another thread about this on here somewhere I think, saying that the disc replacement is a warranty item. Can this be true?

I tried to do this myself too. Gave up in the end and had the dealer do it at service time. No charge.

...For those who love knocking the 220D, that's fine.. go and buy a Merc, Beamer, Skoda or whatever, ...

I had a 220D, I thought it was a great car but at the same time I felt it was robbing me with every tank of fuel I put in. So I did change it ... for an IS250 which is just the dogs bollocks. My only regret is not buying the IS250 in the first place.

:)

When new, my IS250 came with Dunlop SP Sport Maxx tyres. I found these to be excellent, with reasonably good wear. I got about 25,000 miles from each of two sets - front and rear.

However, when I last needed to change these, I was told they were not made any longer and had been replaced by Dunlop Sport 01. I had these installed on the rear.

In driving home yesterday, I hit some standing water and the rear end of the car zig zagged across the road a few times. The traction control kept the car in the lane, but the jolt was so sudden, I banged my head on the window or pillar. I've had never experienced this before in such a small amount of water, and couldn't quite figure out why it had happened.

The rear tyres were relatively new - fitted only 7 months and 9,000 miles ago, but I checked them anyway.

I was absolutely shocked to find that both rear tyres were worn evenly across the width of the tyre, as far as the tread depth indicators.

I don't drive hard, so I am quite annoyed at this level of wear in such a short period of time and that I could have written-off the car yesterday.

How is it possible that these tyres lasted a third as long as my previous few sets, that this model replaced, from the same manufacturer?

Is this normal? Is it possible there has been a bad batch of these tyres? I've not found anything on the net about it!

Only hope I can get some proper tyres fitted in the next few days - I have some long journeys ahead.

I got 36,500 miles out of my original Dunlop Sport Maxx tyres. Just last week I changed them for another set (£400) and had no problem in getting hold of them through my local supplier.

I managed 45.8 out of mine over 190 miles between Gillingham and Dudley on Sunday. Not bad for a 2.5 V6 :)

The auto-unlocking when you put it in Park is a setting you can change yourself. Mine is set up so that it auto-locks at 12mph, but when you stop and put it in P all the doors unlock. Below is a thread from a US forum which might be of help:

OK since you all wanted instructions and it isn't exactly torture for me to play with the new car here's a full proof way to do it

Now I tested this by reverting my settings back to default which is basically doing all the steps again. Flip to P.19 on the manual. What they fail to say there is you have to turn defualt options off, kinda cumbersome but basically if you perform the operation to say 'lock doors @ 12mph' the factory defualt option of 'lock doors when shifting out of park' is not overwritten you will have both options ON but the shifting rule precedes the MPH rule.

To fulfill the original request of:

Doors DO NOT lock when shifting out of park

Doors DO NOT unlock when shifting in to park

Doors DO lock @ 12mph

Doors DO unlock all if drivers side opened within 10secs / unlock drivers only after 10secs.

Put car in to IG-ON

hold unlock button & count to 5 - doors will lock/unlock to confirm

Shutdown

Put car in to IG-ON

hold lock button & count to 5 - doors will lock/unlock to confirm

Shutdown

--Now at this point you have disabled the factory default and the doors will have to be manually locked/unlocked--

Put car in to IG-ON

SHIFT to N

hold unlock button & count to 5 - doors will lock/unlock to confirm

Shutdown (STAY IN N)

hold lock button & count to 5 - doors will lock/unlock to confirm

Shutdown

--Now you have placed the new ruleset and you are good to go, now the last 2 steps above can be skipped for the drivers that want complete control over their lock functions but it seems that the majority of us in this thread like the MPH lock option as well as the Driver/ALL unlock option--

If you have your manual while reading this you will notice I basically went down the list of available options. My first problem and I assume what others report was also troublesome was there was no mention that you had to turn the first two options off beofore turning the last two on.

Before I try this, are you sure this works on the SE? I had a feeling it wasn't a function on this model but on the SE L. Thanks.

This didn't work for me at all.

I'm sorry to see you go. Good luck and all that.

I must admit I didn't realise there was an anti-roll-back feature in the first place, but I'll give it a try at the next opportunity.

Me neither!

I definitely want ACC on my next car. I wanted it on the 250 but couldn't quite make the numbers work. Ho Hum

as somebody has already stated, the iphone will use all the original contacts so stick your sim in another phone (sonyerricson if possible) then register the iphone and your done. you will have problems with people hearing you properly when using the iphone (as i do). as you may have noticed, the iphone is great for all the stuff most phones CANT do, but isnt that good with the basic stuff (like calling people or texting!)

also a thin layer of denim/cotton etc. (a pocket) can render the iphone "out of reach"

all things that are the iphones fault as my s/ek850i was perfect for the lexus.

Sorry mate but that's a load of tosh about the Iphone. I've had no such problems with call clarity over the Bluetooth connection and certainly can't agree that having the phone in your pocket or elsewhere 'hidden' causes it to be invisible. I've left mine in a bag in the boot before now, not realised, and no connectivity problems at all. I'd suggest you may have another problem (can't think what though). And how you can think it's no good for texting I have no idea.

I have to admit to casting the odd admiring glance at the A5. It'll probably be my next car when the Lexus deal ends.

The auto-unlocking when you put it in Park is a setting you can change yourself. Mine is set up so that it auto-locks at 12mph, but when you stop and put it in P all the doors unlock. Below is a thread from a US forum which might be of help:

OK since you all wanted instructions and it isn't exactly torture for me to play with the new car here's a full proof way to do it

Now I tested this by reverting my settings back to default which is basically doing all the steps again. Flip to P.19 on the manual. What they fail to say there is you have to turn defualt options off, kinda cumbersome but basically if you perform the operation to say 'lock doors @ 12mph' the factory defualt option of 'lock doors when shifting out of park' is not overwritten you will have both options ON but the shifting rule precedes the MPH rule.

To fulfill the original request of:

Doors DO NOT lock when shifting out of park

Doors DO NOT unlock when shifting in to park

Doors DO lock @ 12mph

Doors DO unlock all if drivers side opened within 10secs / unlock drivers only after 10secs.

Put car in to IG-ON

hold unlock button & count to 5 - doors will lock/unlock to confirm

Shutdown

Put car in to IG-ON

hold lock button & count to 5 - doors will lock/unlock to confirm

Shutdown

--Now at this point you have disabled the factory default and the doors will have to be manually locked/unlocked--

Put car in to IG-ON

SHIFT to N

hold unlock button & count to 5 - doors will lock/unlock to confirm

Shutdown (STAY IN N)

hold lock button & count to 5 - doors will lock/unlock to confirm

Shutdown

--Now you have placed the new ruleset and you are good to go, now the last 2 steps above can be skipped for the drivers that want complete control over their lock functions but it seems that the majority of us in this thread like the MPH lock option as well as the Driver/ALL unlock option--

If you have your manual while reading this you will notice I basically went down the list of available options. My first problem and I assume what others report was also troublesome was there was no mention that you had to turn the first two options off beofore turning the last two on.

That's handy - thank you :)

The parking sensors go mad with the bike rack on – just ignore them!

Or turn them off

Certainly agree about supermarket petrol -

I think the point there was that you shouldn't be using petrol at all in your diesel motor.