Bratman91

My IS250 suffers from much the same problem and I am sure that it is caused by glazing of the brake pads because of a very low mileage and gentle use. I endorse the advice from others on this thread to give the brakes a hard work-out (taking precautions to drive safely). You have nothing to lose!

On 3/5/2021 at 8:51 PM, paulrnx said:

There is a brilliant place at Tewkesbury called Reinventing the Wheel. Probably too far away from you but they would do this repair for about £70-80 I would think based on work my family have had done there. This does mean there are places out there that offer a good service at a reasonable price.

I second the recommendation for Reinventing the Wheel at Tewkesbury and, from memory, £70 was about the price per wheel.

7 hours ago, Stuart Aspey said:

Have you had them refurbed and, if you have, what was the cost per wheel?

Miele are or were made at Gütersloh where I was stationed in the early 1970s. Herr Miele, the founder of the firm, was often a guest at official functions and gave generous allowances off the list price of his products to Servicemen in the area. Miele products are not cheap but they certainly are designed to last and it is very easy to get spare parts which can often be replaced easily. 

I bought a new IS250 a few months after they came in the market. It wasn’t a top-of-the-range (TOTR) model and I was persuaded by my wife to upgrade to what I think was a 2nd Generation TOTR IS250 - an absolutely superb car in every respect. After three years, a drunk driver (not me!) hit me head on and severely restyled my car. He paid with his life. I needed a replacement quickly and the 3rd generation IS250/IS300H had just been introduced. I was offered an IS300H at only slightly more cost than a TOTR IS250 (presumably to kick-start purchases of the hybrid) but, having been so satisfied with the 2nd Generation IS250 and somewhat underwhelmed by the IS300H in comparison, I decided to stick with the 250. I have never regretted it. However, I must be honest and say that, after 7 years, the car has just clocked 25,000 miles so fuel costs are not a significant feature of my analysis.

On 7/21/2019 at 3:10 AM, J Henderson said:

If you have the Mark Levinson stereo it does.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

Agreed, although the picture is pretty poor and almost invisible in anything other than darkness. 

On 7/22/2019 at 3:58 PM, 200h said:

today i found that if you have the air distribution set to face level

the seats do cool down quite well.

I tried this today as the temperature was pretty high but I didn’t detect much difference.

The seat cooling on my IS250 (Third generation) has been pretty poor from brand new.

My Series 2 IS250 had speech commands to suspend or resume guidance, eg “suspend guidance”. I can’t find anything similar on my Series 3 IS250. Is there a better way to stop the woman nagging me when I have changed my mind about where to go other than the rather dangerous method of using the screen and cursor?

When I were a boy and the roads were still clogged up with horses, the dipping control was to the left of the clutch pedal. It meant that at speed and at night (conditions when you really need to be in full control) you could dip or un-dip headlights by a simple foot press without having to use your hands. Now that automatics are so common, it would be sensible to re-introduce this . 

In principle, the OP’s idea seems a good one. Many years ago, I fitted such a system to my brand-new Austin Montego; it consisted simply of routing one of the low-voltage cables to the coil via a switch under the dashboard. Unless the switch was made, the engine couldn’t be started. Actually, it probably wasn’t worth the effort because, after 7 years, the car had completely rotted away, leaving just the switch on my drive! I would assume that a similar switch could be used on a Lexus but perhaps it would cause the car’s computerised self-diagnosis system to complain. OK, OK, I suppose that this wouldn’t prevent a hybrid being driven away but how far/fast would the getaway be using just the electric motor?

Many thanks scudney and Herbie. I feel a bit more comfortable after your comments and will check out the voltages as you suggest, Herbie. 

I have an IS250 which is now 5 years old. About 9 months ago, I went to start it and there was almost no power whatsoever in the Battery. The AA got me going with a jump start and, the next day I took it to Lexus but they could find no fault. Since then, the car has worked flawlessly. However, two days ago, I found the Battery so flat that even the clock had stopped. Once again, the AA got me going and said that the Battery was probably bad as the voltage was low and the ampere-hour reading was about a third of what it should be. I had the Battery replaced at a specialist company and they also said that the Battery was bad. I do only about 5000 miles per year and the Battery specialist said that a very low mileage often resulted in batteries not being fully charged and this caused decay. However, I am concerned that, on both occasions (when no lights or accessories were left on), the Battery was discharged fully albeit after a few days. I am worried that a very intermittent fault might be causing a severe drain on the Battery. Any comments?

5 hours ago, Hangie said:

Try to delete cookies from your web browser.

That’s a good suggestion and I tried it. I am now back “home” and conversing in English. Many thanks.

When trying to log into the portal, I inadvertently selected some region that uses a cyrillic script and for the life of me can’t get back to English. I seem to be stranded in Uzbekhistan or Mongolia or??? Any advice as to how to get back home?

On 15/12/2017 at 10:02 PM, Mr Vlad said:

However if my celestial black is300h had to have an insurance body repair and they instructed the repairer to 'skimp' the repair then after I would inspect the repair and not be happy with it and I would get all the info from the repairer I'd let the insurance company knowand threaten them with legal action if the repair was not up to manufacturer quality. 

I share your contempt for any insurance company that tries to get a sub-standard repair done but I wonder if any threat of legal action would worry them. They could probably afford the best legal advice and counsel, and an individual trying to match this would risk bankruptcy. I doubt that many of them are even woried too much about their reputation as so many insurance policies are with a company underwritten by XXXX and a subsidiary to YYY and trading under the name of ZZZ, or some similar web of subterfuge. 

15 minutes ago, Ala Larj said:

Not sure I'd just really on the brakes when driving down a mountain road!

I did say "any but the most extreme circumstances" but, even so, if you think that the brakes are fading, you can always change down.

On 03/10/2017 at 9:13 PM, NemesisUK said:

. In a normal car one would usually use the gears to invoke engine braking to help prevent brake fade.

In days well past when drum brakes were the norm, it might have made sense to employ engine braking to avoid brake fade. However, I really do doubt that modern disc brakes with better air flow for cooling ever suffer from fade under any but the most extreme circumstances. Why use highly expensive gear boxes and transmissions to do what relatively inexpensive brakes are designed to do? I have hardly ever used engine braking since the days when I was a boy racer and it seemed macho to show my "skill" at driving.

Many thanks to all those who responded to my query - you have provided me with reliable recommendations and plenty of good food for thought.

Thank you, Andrew. The Viofo A119 certainly seems to have some good features at a reasonable price. It is now on my short-list.

Very many thanks for your quick response, The-Acre. I will have a look at that model. They are on amazon at £119 but that's not out of the question.

I am thinking about getting a dashcam for my IS250 (3rd gen) but am amazed at the variety am finding it difficult to settle on a particular make/model. I am looking for a mid-range model (£60 - 120 but not fixed on this) that does not need to be hard-wired in. However, I don't like the idea of a lead dangling down so, ideally, would like one that runs just on an internal re-chargeable Battery. That said, it needs to be easily and quickly removed from its mounting point both for re-charging and for security when the car is not in use. If a stand-alone model is not available, then I would like it to be connected to the USB socket rather than cigarette lighter one. Any recommendations would be welcomed. Similar posts by others in this forum have included recommendations but the models seem to be no longer available.

Slightly OT I know, but is there anyone who has driven for any length of time a 3rd generation IS250 and an IS300H, and preferred the latter other than for fuel economy and tax reasons? I usually get an IS300H as a loaner when my IS250 is in for servicing and, in my view, the sweet V6 and superb auto transmission beats hands down the hybrid drivechain of the IS300H.

Well, the 3rd generation IS250 has more rear legspace and, I think, headspace than the 2nd generation IS250, and I believe that this is a consequence of a slightly longer wheelbase and possibly thinner seat pads. Since the 3rd generation IS250 and the IS300 share the same wheelbase, I imagine that the IS300 dos have more legroom than the 2nd generation IS250.

Well, the 3rd generation IS250 has more rear legspace and, I think, headspace than the 2nd generation IS250, and I believe that this is a consequence of a slightly longer wheelbase and possibly thinner seat pads. Since the 3rd generation IS250 and the IS300 share the same wheelbase, I imagine that the IS300 dos have more legroom than the 2nd generation IS250.