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jeromek

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  • Lexus Model
    IS200 Sport

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  1. Well, we changed the diff oil tonight and there's no real difference. The diff was full of oil and the oil was clean when it came out. No filings or discolouration in the oil. So the diff is probably fine (whew!). What Johnny reckons (my mechanic buddy) is that it is probably the bearing at the front of the diff (I forget the proper name for it). He said that because you only hear the noise when you're coasting and not accelerating that it is probably this bearing is a little worn. Does this make sense? Has anyone come across something like this before?
  2. Will do. I'm won't get around to it until next Tuesday since that is the soonest my mechanic can get at it. I'm not driving it much and going well slow at the moment (plus I'm away in Edinburgh for the weekend!), so I shouldn't do too much extra damage. I tried to take a look at the diff oil level myself, but I can't get at it at all without getting the car up on a lift (it's a pretty low car to start with it and I have a body kit on it too).
  3. Thanks for your help guys, much appreciated. The noise is only apparent when cruising at 60+ mph. It doesn't happen when cornering at low speeds, and doesn't change when cornering at high speeds. There are no vibrations of note. There is no change in the noise when braking, except that it disappears when you go under 50mph. The wheels all seem to be at roughly the same temperature after a drive. The same tyres have been on it since I bought the car. I took it out last night with a mate to check out for the stuff you suggested. We reckon that the noise is probably coming from the back (he sat in the back seat for a bit), but it's very hard to pin down. I bought the car with 83k miles on it and have very good reason to believe that the proper 80k service wasn't done. So I think changing the diff oil is probably a good idea anyway. The timing belt and pulleys were done at about 76k, so they should be OK. What else should I do while I'm at it? Gearbox oil maybe? I'll do the basic stuff pretty soon (engine oil, filter), but I want to get the diff oil done quickly to at least rule it out as a reason for the noise. Thanks again.
  4. Ahem. OK, I'm an idiot. It's not the slip warning light that's on, it's the frickin rear light warning light. I called over to my mates house last night to take a look at his owners manual (anyone know where I can get one?) after I noticed the slip light coming on. In my defense, any time the slip light comes on I'm not usually staring intently at the dash! Anyway, forget about the light. The noise is still there and I have no idea what's causing it. I'm blue in the face from checking my calipers for heating up and I'm almost certain it's not the brakes sticking. What else could it be? Bearings? The diff? Gearbox? Is there anything I can do to diagnose it? I'd really appreciate any suggestions or opinions, because I just seem to be going from one problem to another with this car (boot stuck -> keys -> radiator shroud -> warped disks -> unsettling noise....) and I really, really, really want to be able to take it for a proper long drive, finally. cheers.
  5. Hi everybody. I have a weird problem and I'd like to get your expert opinions on it. I have a constant whining/whirring noise at high speed in my 00 IS200 Sport. Since yesterday, also, my traction control warning light (the light that blinks when the traction control cuts in) is staying on constantly, even though the traction control seems to be operating normally. There are no other warning lights on the dash. I noticed the noise a while back but I assumed it was my brake disks rubbing off the pads since the front discs were warped. I changed the front discs and pads for mintex ones last week but the noise hasn't gone away. I'm fairly sure it isn't the brake calipers sticking because I got them checked out Saturday and the guy said they are fine. The noise is very hard to describe and is almost subliminal. But it does get fairly loud after a while. It's definitely not from the engine because it keeps constant when free-wheeling. Any ideas? Cheers!
  6. Just in case anybody's interested, here's how this one is going. When the aircon belt went, it took out some vital bits of my cooling system with it - nasty. I tried putting in some water into the coolant reservoir this morning and it poured straight out of the bottom of the reservoir and onto the pulleys! At that stage I gave up on it and made my way into work in my old carina (which I still haven't been able to get rid of, luckily enough). I took another look at it this evening and filled up the radiator directly. It was pretty dry and took about 1.5 litres to fill. Took it for a short spin and the cooling seems to be working fine - the fans even kicked in after a while when ticking over. I'm guessing that the only real damage done is that the pipe joining the tank to the radiator, but I'm no expert on these things. Here's some pictures: This is the bottom of the coolant tank. This is where the water pours out. This is the view from the passenger side of the car. Does the broken spline on the back of the rad make any odds? Should there be something connected to the hose in the foreground? This is the view from the driver's side of the car. Should the circled pipes be connected to anything? What parts do I need to get (at a guess)? Any opinions are appreciated!
  7. I'm thinking that the guy I got to take a look over the car after I bought it didn't do such a good job... I'm not having much luck with this car so far: no master key, warped brake disks, ancient aircon belt and now this cooling problem. I hope it doesn't continue, cause I really love the car (apart from these problems, obviously!). I'll check out the stuff you mentioned; thanks for the pointers.
  8. I think it was just really old. The belt looked frayed and decrepit when I pulled it out. So yeah, I need by butt kicked for lack of maintenance. I only have the car a few weeks, and I'd just replaced the bonnet strut clasp (little plastic thingy for holding up the bonnet strut) and I was taking a look around the engine bay. I'm a bit concerned at the moment though. The car overheated last night after a short drive. I was driving it fairly hard for 10 minutes. Not really hard; hit 6000 revs maybe twice and cruising at about 4000. The heat gauge was just below the red mark and there was steam venting from the radiator. I drove it to work this morning very carefully (didn't go over 3000 revs) and it didn't get hot. Could there be any link between this and the broken aircon belt? Maybe some thermostatic control or something? Thanks.
  9. The aircon belt on my 00 IS200 has snapped and I'm wondering if there's any danger in driving away while it's gone. I don't have time to get it changed until next week, so I'm just wondering if it's OK to keep driving it, or if I could damage my aircon unit or something. At least I think it's the aircon belt - it's the motor underneath the alternator on the right hand side of the engine (as you look at it from the front). Sorry, I know this is almost certainly a stupid question!
  10. fatpieman69 you're a genius! Got the keyblade off ebay today, brought it out to a key cutter and got the boot open no problem. Nice one man, you saved me mega-bucks there (Lexus Ireland were looking for about 300 or 400 euro - I got it done for 35). Also, the locksmith guy reckons he can also copy to codes off the valet key. He has a special machine for the job and he reckons it's no problem. I think it's worth a shot anyway - does anybody know of any potential problems that could arise? I.e. is there any possibility of wiping the codes off the original valet key in the process?
  11. That's great - I'll order a blank master key from ebay straight away. Hopefully once I get the boot open I'll be able to figure out what's wrong with the internal release mechanism. Nice one.
  12. I've rang the guy I bought it from about it twice and he claims that he never had any problem getting it open. He used the internal release lever and it was fine. Seems odd that it would stop working the day that he got rid of it, doesn't it? It did go for its NCT (Irish version of the MOT) immediately before I bought it, so maybe they screwed it up. I took a look into the boot through the ski hatch and there's nothing obviously jamming it. There is no noticeable movement around the lock when the release lever is pulled. The lever feels loose but it's definitely connected to something. I can hear something moving back there - it just doesn't seem to do anything. The lever falls back down but it's not 'floppy'. Thanks for your help.
  13. Found you through google when researching buying my IS200.
  14. Thanks for the welcome. I'm afraid I'm a complete noobie at the moment, but I hope I can contribute something worthwhile here eventually. Now, where do I get an amp bypass lead for my IS200? Only joking! Phew, that's a weight off my mind anyway. I just tried it there and the lock definitely isn't disengaging. I gave it a good hard tug (ahem) and no movement. The internal boot release feels loose - there's no positive feedback when you pull it and it travels as far as the lever mechanism will allow it. Maybe the cable is after slipping or something? If so, anyone know how to get at it? Or should I just bring it along to Mr T and brace myself? I know. That's one mistake I'll never make again.
  15. It's aligned vertically. What does this mean? Yeah, I've been reading some of the other forums on the valet key thing. I think I'll just have to be super-careful with the key I have! Cheers mate...
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