Geoffers

From memory it is a 7.5A labelled panel. I think it is on the passenger side but may be wrong. Check for damp while you have the panel off. They are renowned for it, usually after a windscreen replacement. With all the bad weather lately you may have some. reseat all the connectors and try to dry off it damp. If none of these, sometimes the connector comes off the dimmer so check that too.

Happy days 🙂 Keep your eye on trying to find the source of the dampness though. It's usually the seal on the windscreen.

Has the windscreen been replaced? This used to happen on the is200 and was water ingress into the fusebox (think it was passenger side but could be wrong). Check both sides and feel around the back. Re-seat the connectors to the fusebox.

If the pressure is definitely correct all round and you're certain they are the usual pressure you have them, (you could be certain by adding more air but not overboard) then it could be the battery in one of the sensors. The battery can be replaced, although some are soldered in. It's a pain trying to find the correct one though.

I had similar issues many moons ago when I was designing the IS200 the auto closure on alarm set. I was putting pressure on the windows and all sorts of things which eventually caused this. Sounds like the pulse switch is slightly off. This causes the window to go too high and the current sensor kicks in and lowers the window. If it has, the only way around it is to pop the motor off and manually reset it by powering on and lowering until the motor stops, then re-install with the window at its lowest point. After that, do the window reset procedure. I'm afraid I don't have any destructions on how to do it but it's not as daunting as it looks when you take the card card off. Reset doesn't work now as the procedure is only if it counter is off very slightly, not by a large margin.

What? That is the most ridiculous thing I have read. Of course there are many ways to get this data via courts. Just because there isn't a SPECIFIC law you can't be so naive as to to genuinely believe they can't obtain it. Do you follow any court cases at all? (I mean actually follow the cases?) I've lived in Germany and for the majority it is 50k in a built up area and 100k outside. Only very specific roads with very strict spacing laws do they travel faster. These are actually fewer then people (like yourself who clearly like to quote Germany) think! I'm not condoning forced speed limitation but as a side note - It's the things out of your control that are the issue, and the damage caused by the velocity of the car. If there is an accident, the faster the vehicle is travelling the more damage it is likely to do either inside or outside the car. It doesn't matter how skilled you are at driving, it's not going to stop a piece of metal entering your intergluteal cleft. You have to look at damage limitation.

Not doubtful at all. The 12v battery on a Hybrid car is not designed to start an engine. It has a much lower continuous current and even lower CCA (cold cranking). As above, it is there to start the control circuits and some other backwardly compatible 12v systems. The 12v is charged not via a conventional alternator, instead it uses a DC-DC converter. If you are jump starting another car and your battery doesn't have the available current, this will be load the DC-DC and there is a good chance of damage as that certainly isn't there to start another vehicle. This then results in not being able to start your own car. Yes you've been lucky and I'm glad. Unfortunately, lots of people have suffered failure. There are now warnings in the newer manuals advising you not to jump start other vehicles, something that should have been there from the start as the risk is too high. If someone was say, holding your puppy to ransom and you really, really, really must do it, then leave your car jumpered to the other car for a few minutes WITHOUT turning the engine over in the other car, allowing the other battery to charge a little. Disconnect and try to start the other car. That is probably the absolute furthest I would go if I had to. Glad I haven't got a puppy really.... Some models don't need you to press a button on the keyfob to unlock the car. Providing the key is on you or in close proximity to the sensors, the car will unlock as you touch the handles. This uses a lot more power in standby as the method for communicating and searching with the keyfob is very different than a conventional alarm/central locking that just 'listens' for a signal.

I absolutely agree with everything Herbie says. The standard 12v battery is just for the control electronics. When you are away, do you disable keyless entry? It will save about 300mA on the early models. Not solving sourcing the problem I know but may help your situation. I actually disable mine every night. Habit now. It's a pity Lexus haven't yet built in a circuit to pull some current from the traction batteries if the 12v battery is too low. Not something you would use all the time but in an emergency would help. Hyundai have done that with the Ioniq and Nero having a "temporary battery reset routine" which they call it. Nice touch.

Sony do have the best algorithms - sammy is soft in comparison, I've not a fantastic amount of experience in this but do know the TV's have the detail enhancement which alters the original image a little more. LG's is Excellent. Oh no just realised - talking non Lexus chat in a an Lexus or even car related area. Oops sorry.

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yes how dare you try making general non related Lexus conversation in the correct area for non Lexus related topics....... Good job it's been pointed out.

So did they do anything other than attempt to read the diagnostic code? Irrelevant whether it was intended to be hear or not. Yes it should be brought to someones attention because the engineer clearly doesn't give a toss of the features and what anyone what think about them. He's paid to do it. Basically he's just said you're an idiot for even bringing it up. I wouldn't publish it publicly, I'm with Verbout. He won't get the sack at all we all know that. He should be taking pride in what he does. Even if it's a job he hates, there's no need to belittle the customer.

I suspect it may have been a warning on that particular model as there isn't in my neighbours car. Even Lexus own 450h documentation says: Long-term parking. If the vehicle has been parked for a long time, the 12-volt and the hybrid battery will discharge gradually. For parking longer than about 30 days, charging of the 12-volt battery may be required. Your Lexus dealer has details. To keep the hybrid battery in good condition, drive the vehicle at least once every several months for at least 30 minutes or ten miles. If the hybrid battery becomes fully discharged and the vehicle will not start, even with a jump start to the 12-volt battery, contact your Lexus dealer. If that manual is definitely from your model then I would go ahead with jump starting. Being Hybrid has nothing to do with being able to jump start it or not. If anything it would be some of the control electronics that could be susceptible to transient spiking, which is why some have dedicated jump start connections as there is a additional filtering on some. Does everything appear to power up when you had the smart charger on? Do you get any dash lights/warnings? These smart chargers aren't sometimes 100% accurate because of the way they try to measure the current. You could try manually charging the battery with a good old fashioned charger, or leaving the jump leads on for a couple of minutes before actually trying to start the car. All hybrid systems have a low voltage protection system but not sure on the 450 if that would disable the car starting completely. Usually there is a warning on the dash. The alarm won't permanently disable the vehicle, only when in triggered condition.

The other thing to be weary of with cheap cameras is the interference they give off.Especially cameras from abroad that may not be CE approved even though they are marked as being so.

If it's not the camera or wiring to it itself, (very likely it is though, I agree completely with jackcramerr) just double check where power was taken for it. The antenna coax feed comes from the rear through the centre column and past the cig lighter socket into the reasr of the ML so quite possible there is a nick or even dislodged the connector slightly when they opened up for the connection. The coax connector is roughly alongside the the door for the cup holder in the centre console..