Geoffers

Sanj! What's the odds - I've not been on here for ages too. How is it going? My screen was off after reset when I did a firmware upgrade but the MENU button brought it back on. USB sockets were ok though. In your case I suspect it will be one of the 7.5A ecu-acc fuses.The acc that does the lighter socket is definitely on the passenger side, roughly the middle underneath so you need to get upside down in the passenger footwell to have a look. You'll see a translucent cover you need to pop off.

sorry, it posted twice.

There is though, depending how the car was sold e.g as described with Warranty, the warranty doc that was signed could very well be with warranty provider so the contract is between them, not the seller as the car as as described. Similar to an insurance broker. The consumer rights are very broad with terms such as 'satisfactory quality' at the time of sale of a trader. All sorts of grey areas, for example satisfactory quality also takes into account the cars age, especially with electronics. I have been to court a few times. (As independent engineer with electronics, not my cases) and seen some people really shafted. I'm not doubting you for a second - I'm extremely interested to see where this applies exactly in the law as I can use this myself. Can you point me to any legal docs please? There are two cases currently on the go I'm involved with directly.

royoftherovers is absolutely correct - it is also a reverse burden of proof on their side to prove it was working. Now, 'proof' (I use the term loosely here as it gets pretty grey area in cases like this with electronics) can be that it could be you haven't mentioned it in a reasonable amount of time therefore they would argue that it probably developed some time after the sale. How long was it before you first noticed and mentioned it?

I can't be 100% certain but think that is the old Lexus link connector from memory. It was used for the phone connection.

Swap the bulbs around and if it moves to the other side it's the bulb itself.

The 120a is in the engine bay box but check all of them as I think the 120A also feeds the starter motor which is ok. Check every single fuse to be sure as there's usually multiple circuits coming off each one and not every single circuit is labelled.

Agree about the auto electrician. I do hope it hasn't damaged the ECU's although they do have a degree of protection built in for reverse polarity. I'm sure you have and forgive me for checking but you have checked ALL the fuse boxes haven't you? There are a few big beasts in the engine bay. One looks similar to a relay which controls a lot of the cars electrics. Also, I don't know the early GS300 but as well as the one in the drivers footwell and engine bay, on other Lex's there is also a third in the passenger footwell. Just throwing it out there in the hope you've missed one.

Make sure headlights are off and not on automatic. Switch ignition on single press. Press and hold menu button. Turn lights on-off 3 times. (only first position lights). Release Menu button and you will see the full diagnostics. Give it a good 20 secs to complete the initial testing. Quickest way out is just turn the ignition off.

Try an aircon bomb to clear it. Make sure it is of the antibacterial type or it will only be masked for a while. Also, check your pollen filter. They can absolutely stink after a while. As the others, I leave my aircon on all the time.

+1 They clearly have no idea.

Mine is worse than that too. I've been meaning to clean off completely and see how it is. If it's too reflective then I'll replace but general consensus is that it's ok.

Ah ok, it's using the line level inputs to the amp and the digital data lines for the info and selection when you select CD1/CD2 (depending which Grom you have). I'm with Neil - it's not your system. It's a Grom cabling issue. I don't think it is a fault as such, I think a compatibility issue between the two. Don't worry about the fan not turning on the amp, its not always, only when the heat is too high on the output transistors. Did you use the existing cable or a new cable with the new Grom? (I'm not sure if the connectors between Grom versions are the same). Is one the TOY version? I'm not sure what to suggest if Grom don't have any other cables to offer for your vehicle and that version of Grom. It's always worth another ask though. I'd take a look if I lived in your lovely part of the country. I assume the info side of things works fine when you switch it in? If not, and a bit of a long shot on this, is it getting power to the Grom from the output of the headunit?

I've had this with the address book (not on a 450h). I ended up having to remove my phone, power off everything, power back up and and re-adding it.

Is it the lex cable that connects ion the back of the radio or the one that connects to the rear of the amp? One is line level, the other is amplified as it switches on the speakers and the mute cable isn't always connected if the later. If it's connected, I wonder if it is hed high. Might be worth disconnecting - it is labelled on the Grom (assuming it hasn't been removed). If you could do as Neil suggests and take a few pics of the harness and where it connects that will help.