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Geoffers

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Everything posted by Geoffers

  1. Sanj! What's the odds - I've not been on here for ages too. How is it going? My screen was off after reset when I did a firmware upgrade but the MENU button brought it back on. USB sockets were ok though. In your case I suspect it will be one of the 7.5A ecu-acc fuses.The acc that does the lighter socket is definitely on the passenger side, roughly the middle underneath so you need to get upside down in the passenger footwell to have a look. You'll see a translucent cover you need to pop off.
  2. There is though, depending how the car was sold e.g as described with Warranty, the warranty doc that was signed could very well be with warranty provider so the contract is between them, not the seller as the car as as described. Similar to an insurance broker. The consumer rights are very broad with terms such as 'satisfactory quality' at the time of sale of a trader. All sorts of grey areas, for example satisfactory quality also takes into account the cars age, especially with electronics. I have been to court a few times. (As independent engineer with electronics, not my cases) and seen some people really shafted. I'm not doubting you for a second - I'm extremely interested to see where this applies exactly in the law as I can use this myself. Can you point me to any legal docs please? There are two cases currently on the go I'm involved with directly.
  3. royoftherovers is absolutely correct - it is also a reverse burden of proof on their side to prove it was working. Now, 'proof' (I use the term loosely here as it gets pretty grey area in cases like this with electronics) can be that it could be you haven't mentioned it in a reasonable amount of time therefore they would argue that it probably developed some time after the sale. How long was it before you first noticed and mentioned it?
  4. I can't be 100% certain but think that is the old Lexus link connector from memory. It was used for the phone connection.
  5. Swap the bulbs around and if it moves to the other side it's the bulb itself.
  6. The 120a is in the engine bay box but check all of them as I think the 120A also feeds the starter motor which is ok. Check every single fuse to be sure as there's usually multiple circuits coming off each one and not every single circuit is labelled.
  7. Agree about the auto electrician. I do hope it hasn't damaged the ECU's although they do have a degree of protection built in for reverse polarity. I'm sure you have and forgive me for checking but you have checked ALL the fuse boxes haven't you? There are a few big beasts in the engine bay. One looks similar to a relay which controls a lot of the cars electrics. Also, I don't know the early GS300 but as well as the one in the drivers footwell and engine bay, on other Lex's there is also a third in the passenger footwell. Just throwing it out there in the hope you've missed one.
  8. Make sure headlights are off and not on automatic. Switch ignition on single press. Press and hold menu button. Turn lights on-off 3 times. (only first position lights). Release Menu button and you will see the full diagnostics. Give it a good 20 secs to complete the initial testing. Quickest way out is just turn the ignition off.
  9. Try an aircon bomb to clear it. Make sure it is of the antibacterial type or it will only be masked for a while. Also, check your pollen filter. They can absolutely stink after a while. As the others, I leave my aircon on all the time.
  10. Mine is worse than that too. I've been meaning to clean off completely and see how it is. If it's too reflective then I'll replace but general consensus is that it's ok.
  11. Ah ok, it's using the line level inputs to the amp and the digital data lines for the info and selection when you select CD1/CD2 (depending which Grom you have). I'm with Neil - it's not your system. It's a Grom cabling issue. I don't think it is a fault as such, I think a compatibility issue between the two. Don't worry about the fan not turning on the amp, its not always, only when the heat is too high on the output transistors. Did you use the existing cable or a new cable with the new Grom? (I'm not sure if the connectors between Grom versions are the same). Is one the TOY version? I'm not sure what to suggest if Grom don't have any other cables to offer for your vehicle and that version of Grom. It's always worth another ask though. I'd take a look if I lived in your lovely part of the country. I assume the info side of things works fine when you switch it in? If not, and a bit of a long shot on this, is it getting power to the Grom from the output of the headunit?
  12. I've had this with the address book (not on a 450h). I ended up having to remove my phone, power off everything, power back up and and re-adding it.
  13. Is it the lex cable that connects ion the back of the radio or the one that connects to the rear of the amp? One is line level, the other is amplified as it switches on the speakers and the mute cable isn't always connected if the later. If it's connected, I wonder if it is hed high. Might be worth disconnecting - it is labelled on the Grom (assuming it hasn't been removed). If you could do as Neil suggests and take a few pics of the harness and where it connects that will help.
  14. From memory it is a 7.5A labelled panel. I think it is on the passenger side but may be wrong. Check for damp while you have the panel off. They are renowned for it, usually after a windscreen replacement. With all the bad weather lately you may have some. reseat all the connectors and try to dry off it damp. If none of these, sometimes the connector comes off the dimmer so check that too.
  15. Happy days 🙂 Keep your eye on trying to find the source of the dampness though. It's usually the seal on the windscreen.
  16. Has the windscreen been replaced? This used to happen on the is200 and was water ingress into the fusebox (think it was passenger side but could be wrong). Check both sides and feel around the back. Re-seat the connectors to the fusebox.
  17. If the pressure is definitely correct all round and you're certain they are the usual pressure you have them, (you could be certain by adding more air but not overboard) then it could be the battery in one of the sensors. The battery can be replaced, although some are soldered in. It's a pain trying to find the correct one though.
  18. I had similar issues many moons ago when I was designing the IS200 the auto closure on alarm set. I was putting pressure on the windows and all sorts of things which eventually caused this. Sounds like the pulse switch is slightly off. This causes the window to go too high and the current sensor kicks in and lowers the window. If it has, the only way around it is to pop the motor off and manually reset it by powering on and lowering until the motor stops, then re-install with the window at its lowest point. After that, do the window reset procedure. I'm afraid I don't have any destructions on how to do it but it's not as daunting as it looks when you take the card card off. Reset doesn't work now as the procedure is only if it counter is off very slightly, not by a large margin.
  19. What? That is the most ridiculous thing I have read. Of course there are many ways to get this data via courts. Just because there isn't a SPECIFIC law you can't be so naive as to to genuinely believe they can't obtain it. Do you follow any court cases at all? (I mean actually follow the cases?) I've lived in Germany and for the majority it is 50k in a built up area and 100k outside. Only very specific roads with very strict spacing laws do they travel faster. These are actually fewer then people (like yourself who clearly like to quote Germany) think! I'm not condoning forced speed limitation but as a side note - It's the things out of your control that are the issue, and the damage caused by the velocity of the car. If there is an accident, the faster the vehicle is travelling the more damage it is likely to do either inside or outside the car. It doesn't matter how skilled you are at driving, it's not going to stop a piece of metal entering your intergluteal cleft. You have to look at damage limitation.
  20. Not doubtful at all. The 12v battery on a Hybrid car is not designed to start an engine. It has a much lower continuous current and even lower CCA (cold cranking). As above, it is there to start the control circuits and some other backwardly compatible 12v systems. The 12v is charged not via a conventional alternator, instead it uses a DC-DC converter. If you are jump starting another car and your battery doesn't have the available current, this will be load the DC-DC and there is a good chance of damage as that certainly isn't there to start another vehicle. This then results in not being able to start your own car. Yes you've been lucky and I'm glad. Unfortunately, lots of people have suffered failure. There are now warnings in the newer manuals advising you not to jump start other vehicles, something that should have been there from the start as the risk is too high. If someone was say, holding your puppy to ransom and you really, really, really must do it, then leave your car jumpered to the other car for a few minutes WITHOUT turning the engine over in the other car, allowing the other battery to charge a little. Disconnect and try to start the other car. That is probably the absolute furthest I would go if I had to. Glad I haven't got a puppy really.... Some models don't need you to press a button on the keyfob to unlock the car. Providing the key is on you or in close proximity to the sensors, the car will unlock as you touch the handles. This uses a lot more power in standby as the method for communicating and searching with the keyfob is very different than a conventional alarm/central locking that just 'listens' for a signal.
  21. I absolutely agree with everything Herbie says. The standard 12v battery is just for the control electronics. When you are away, do you disable keyless entry? It will save about 300mA on the early models. Not solving sourcing the problem I know but may help your situation. I actually disable mine every night. Habit now. It's a pity Lexus haven't yet built in a circuit to pull some current from the traction batteries if the 12v battery is too low. Not something you would use all the time but in an emergency would help. Hyundai have done that with the Ioniq and Nero having a "temporary battery reset routine" which they call it. Nice touch.
  22. Sony do have the best algorithms - sammy is soft in comparison, I've not a fantastic amount of experience in this but do know the TV's have the detail enhancement which alters the original image a little more. LG's is Excellent. Oh no just realised - talking non Lexus chat in a an Lexus or even car related area. Oops sorry.
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