Geoffers

Nope. Not in force - you can't see the signs. It was in front of an old school gate a few years ago. Then they built Tesco's opposite and put traffic lights there. :P I wondered if anyone would jump on that.

Switch to highest resolutions in Youtube: Front camera daytime: Rear camera daytime: Front cmaera night-time in previous post Rear camera nigh-time:

Oh poo. What melted - the casing plastics or the camera lens plastics?

I'll get them up tomorrow mate.

I've just been reading about her actually - I'll go and have a look at that now thanks. It is shocking that some people don't even know it happened: "I had an operation once and the anaesthetist comes and looks at [the tattoo on] my arm and he says, 'What is this?' And I said, 'That's from Auschwitz.' And he said, 'Auschwitz, what was that?' And that was a young man, a qualified doctor," she says.

I've got this one. Audio recording is an option on this model. The rear camera isn't as good quality (at night - fine of a day) but still 100% better than nothing. Here is an example of Front camera quality at night. (from October I copied) Switch it to 720p to see its quality. I'll upload a rear one tomorrow.

Obviously the danger issue while driving is no question, but unknown impact on the multimedia system and Sat Nav?

If it's just DVD's you want to play and aren't bothered about the telephone menu's, etc then yes, cut the wire that goes to ground when the brake pedal is pressed. I think it is red with a black stripe but you can easily meter it. Tape up the part that comes from the loom. The part that is still connected to the socket at the back of the ML, short it to ground. It now thins the parking brake is on.

If the 10A fuse is ok, it must be the tail/side relay. Reseat the relay in the box under bonnet. I can't remember if its marked as tail or hlp. Also, give it a slight tap in case its sticky. If still no joy, take out the relay and meter pin sockets 1+2 for 12v when the sides are on. If nothing, it could be the stalk as there is nothing powering the relay coil. If this is ok, switch on the sidelights and meter between earth and pin socket 3. It should read 12v. If not, you have a problem with power to it which is only fuse and wiring. If it does, the problem is either the relay or the connection out from it. To check the relay itself, put 12v across pins 1+2 and using your meter check for continuity across pins 3+5. If it is open circuit, your relay is at fault. If it closes it is a fault in the wiring. I assume the main and full beam are ok?

I've not done it but there are loads popping up on the market for when analogue discontinues in 2015. I'm just waiting to see the new arrivals. How you connect in is down to cost and time. You can get units that just need power and they transmit an analogue signal themselves that you just tune your normal existing analogue radio into. Or, you can hardwire in. Do a search and you'll see some diagrams I've done about putting and auxiliary input to the headunit, or you can buy a commercial unit like the GROM which also does ipod and bluetooth so you have your phone or any A2DP device

And I can definitely confirm the 250 auto is still £270 - I received my renewal reminder in the post this morning :megaangry:

If it doesn't flash, does it still lock? It may be worth having your windows down and reaching in, checking the alarm sensors are working (radar doesn't become operational until about 45secs after you've armed allowing for settlement). If it doesn't lock, do you also hear the lock solenoids retrying? Have you swapped your indicator bulbs for LED type? I've known it to happen with these as the set trigger is very quick, yet slightly slower on the unset.

Yes, the filter is in the glove compartment behind the little shelf thingy that comes out. You will see the cover that just cips out. Be careful taking out the filter - male sure you are in recirc mode or you'll damage the damper arm when pulling out the filter. Also, as Chunky says, check your footwells under the carpets. Mine were soaking and it turned out to be the condensation drain for the aircon clogged. This particular drain is right on the bottom of the unit though so meant the dash had to come out. I yours under warranty? If your floors are wet, get it in. I did read on another Lexus forum that there is a way to get to it from the underneath but can't remember where now.

I'm not sure I can reprint here as I think Lexus are tightening up with this sort of thing but clicky here for one someone else who has.

You can download the full manual HERE it contains the full electrical diagrams for radio. Just for info, the satnav should intercept the front door speaker output from the amp, not the radio headunit.

I do a bit of work in Shawbury every week. A friend of mine lives in WEM and I keep meaning to visit him. It's not me you see - mine only a measly IS250!

Happy days :-)

lens and grey surround are one.

...or get your fingers into the front edge and pull down while lightly pressing the middle so it flexes slightly. It is very tight the first time but don't worry. You're right, its not the lens but the complete grey surround too.

The main fuse is 120A before the 40A. It is possible the current draw while trying to start it has weakened it (possibly weakened before you got it) and eventually just blown. The 120A also goes to the alternator as well as the 40a for ign so best disconnect that and rule out immediately if you aren't getting very far. Do you have a multimeter?

There is a bus system on it yes, although it may not stop it powering up so in theory you could test it loads CD's. I've not tried one outside of a Lexus so there is a possibility it won't power up if it doesn't see the amp. The bus system is used for the amp. The system volume and tone controls are transmitted through it but may also perform a handshake with the amp on powerup. The output is at line level but may work if its not connected. Blue/yellow stripe - Perm live Grey - switched live white/black - earth If you want to try its audio outputs, line level should be enough to power headphones. Its a balanced system so there's no reference to earth meaning you'll have to try each channel independently. Within the shielded cable: White: Right+ Green: Right - Black: Left + Red: Left - e.g. You'll need to put the R+ on one of the headphone pins and the R- on the headphone earth. You can't test the left at the same time using one pair of headphones as it will short. You'll need a second pair. You can't use a speaker or the larger speaker style headphone as the line out isn't powerful enough. The radio does take quite a bit of current so make sure you have a decent power supply.

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Geoff, there's a thread HERE about a company with an interior kit but it's not on Ebay. Edit - this has a video in it so assume it's not the one. I'll leave the link in just in case though.

It's happened to me a few times and there is one particular spot I can replicate it every time. Carl is right - it is literally just a few feet that can make the difference. I've had some success with going to the rear of the car and trying it near that transponder but if not enough of a clear encoded signal gets through it won't unlock. It actually sends the code hundreds of times and MUST handshake above a certain percentage or it fails and will not unlock. Also, sometimes the RAC have reported just parking the van at different spots around the car is enough to change/block the interference. Its not only Lexus that do it, my sister's Audi does it too occasionally.

Yeah, some of the oem spoilers didn't have the connectors on so they didn't actually plug in - you still had to manually splice into the cabling. I didn't build it so the mirrors opened with unlock because I didn't want it taking any power monitoring it with ignition off. Once it closes the mirrors, it shuts itself off. I thought about it but when I realised how often I got into the car and needed the mirrors without ignition, it didn't warrant a redesign and cost jump. I think there is a commercially available one you can buy somewhere that does it.