Geoffers

I don't think you got any replies as the standard IS doesn't have footwell lights. Maybe there was a special edition that does. The harness isn't there for it. You would have to get some for another car and take a feed off the ignition backlight - its the nearest that comes on with the doors. You could even use an led strip that you see for a couple of quid on ebay.

Could be a well known issue behind the stereo. Have a look at this thread.

From an electronics locking point of view, it is only 2 wires to the solenoid on the top of the lock. - no ecu or anything, that is further in the car so its up to you if you swap out the lock. As far as number plate lights, fogs, etc. there is a bank of connectors on the left side side of the boot, near the top, roughly about the middle. I think I may have taken some pics when I was fitting my reversing camera. I'll try and dig them out. As Steve says, if you aren't swapping out the lock, its pretty much plug and play. You can even do that at a later date.

It also depends on the browser and the settings - keeps re-appearing. Very annoying.

Not sure what year or model but changing them is dead easy. I can't quite remember where the connector is for the mirror so you might have to take the door panel off too. Here's how

I'm thinking the same. Also, if there has been any mods and the rubber grommet has been breached without sealing causes the same issue too. Some people have been successful in their diagnosis by drying all around the area of the fuseboxes with a hairdryer (it takes some time as the front obviously gets nice and warm and dry but its really the rear you need to be dry). The wires look dry but it needss to penetrate the connectors. Take the door cover off in the drivers footwell and dry thoroughly. If this is correct, hopefully you can trace up and see where the penetration is.

I had the one slightly higher but still in the centre near the windscreen. I was really lucky. I took out the centre speaker and wedged a piece of rubber pipe between the two parts of the dash. Its done the trick.

There are different wiring variations depending on if you have an amp or not, the model, etc. What model is your 200?

There is one place in Crosby I can go to and repeat this every time... but only if I park facing east. It is a small cul-de-sac and everyoone knows everyone else so we tried turning off routers, etc. but nothing changed. It's almost like a radio blackspot. As Shepard says, the key uses passive rfid when it is actually up to/touching the start button, transmiting only its encryption key regardless of its battery power and most external factors (especially if touching) When it is away from the start-button, it is semi-active. What happens is the Lex is continually transmitting. When the keyfob receives the signal, it will negotiate with the car. When you press a button or touch the handle, it then transmits the open signal and the car dutifully responds as it knows the key is legit. When there is interferrence around, the negotiation is slightly off so gives a no response. Bear in mind that this isn't a single negotiation - this is happening hundreds of times a second once they start talking. It only allows a certain amount of failures then will not allow the key to talk to it. (Which is why you can't open it from outside at all unless you physically put the key in). The whole process then resets and retries. I'm not sure why you got the check VSC as well though as I've not had that in relation to key negotiation failure.

Have you tried just extending the cable yourself to take the tension off? Done properly there really is nothing to worry about. It's an awful lot of money and a big job just for that. I would look at extending if you can see where the tension is. Is it at the knee airbag or at the control ecu?

A Lex, it does seem odd that a few would be gone at the same time, but then the same happens in my kitchen! Illunination is on a 7.5a fuse but wouldn't explain half a circuit - the control comes from a single feed so can only be connection or bulbs. Is it all the backlights on the AC assembly? You'll need to check there's 12v with the lights on (grn & wht/grn, pins 11 & 12) at the AC assembly connector. Shreksta, if the illumination fuse is ok, check the connection on the rheostat as I assume you had the covers off - maybe you've just knocked it. Which yellow wire? Where? Maybe we can help identify the circuit it would have affected.There are a few yellow circuits doing different functions. Be carefiul because one yellow wire circuit is your airbags - you don't want them going off while your head is stuck in somewhere.

Faulty disk or laser head. There is very little you can do other than try another disk or run a disk cleaner. Outside of that they don't sell spares so it would be another unit. Maybe you could salvage one off a scrapper.

I had that when one of my lamps was going. It appeared to be ok if I put it on manual, but it seems that it was just because I was effectively switching off and on a few times. Eventually it wouldn't come on at all. Mine was bought in 07 and this was last year so got just over 4 years. How old is your car? If you switch on manual and then back to auto, does the lamp actually switch off again?

I'm not 100% sure but from memory it is white/green for the negative switched side and solid green for the positive feed. Think its pins 2+3 on the large connector in the back of the radio unit. Meter them to see if there's 12v across them when the lights are on. If not there's a break somewhere. If you can't find it you could take it from the cig lighter lamp which is the closest I think. (same colours)

I assume there has been an aftermarket system in there? Some of the adapter wiring kits didn't take into account the lighting from the headlights so that had to be done manually. So... maybe someone with an IS200/300 can confirm - if the radio is on but not the headlights, does the display still light up without anything else? If it does then it looks like you'll need to find your lighting feed and re-connect it. Were there any loose wires or anything taped up?

Exactly as Pete says - have you wired to the existing board or straight to the motor? If you've wired to the board, check you haven't dislodged the long potentiometer that tells it its position. It looks similar to this:

Phew. I thought it was just me it wound up. :-)

This isn't a chip. It is a potentiometer. It isn't worded correctly. IATs work solely on resistance. What this does is allow you to change the resistance. I suspected you would still want to try it either way, (an observation not a criticism) and there is no doubt in my mind it will change the performance in some way. That's why I suggested buy a pot from Ebay. Same thing. Ask tuning wizard for a photo of the inside. You don't need to see values of components as its variable. You still have to manually set it yourself so for the case of a quid, why not try one first? It just makes the engine think its cooler than it is when turned up so the fuel ratio is richer, and when turned down makes it leaner. (Hence the alleged mpg and performance - both aren't at the same time - its one or the other). That's the theory. In reality by the time the ECU reads the false air temp reading, the other sensors will be advising there's too much fuel in the exhaust gasses and return the fuelling to normal, or at worst, throw up an engine management light if you have the adjustment to far. You will get small bursts - very small. Not noticeable in driving but specialist equipment can detect it so therefore they aren't lying though it could be argued they are mis-selling. As I say, the car will definitely feel different as this is going on because of the resistance change.

Its just a quids worth of variable resistor, not even a chip. It alters the reading the temp sensor gives the engine allowing it to run hotter. If you wanted to try it yourself get a 100k pot from ebay and put it across the sensor. (lookup 100k potentiometer). You can try for yourself making your own adjustments just like the ad. Be weary though - on very cold starts the mix will be slightly off as the car will think its a different temperature. It can also cause premature detonation.

I was just thinking exactly the same which is why I suggested a simple 3rd party set, thinking it was the audible only factory one. Unless you swap only the transducer (and you are lucky with its size and tolerance) it won't integrate with a factory fitted system. I've seen loads and they all seems the same size but thinking about it, I've never actually put any side by side to see if they are. Could be worth a go. Is the sensor disconnected now or just broken? I'm wondering if disconnecting it will stop the beeping.

It would probably be cheaper getting one of those kits from Ebay for £20. The disadvantage is the install but its not that bad really if you just want the tones. I guess you could try one of the sensors out of the new kit first - its the same piezo technology, just different tolerances.

When you took a call on the Parrot, did it come through the speakers that are now not working? (or did/does it come through all speakers?). If it never came through these speakers then that instantly rules out the Parrot. I find it difficult to believe the Parrot has blown the speakers - they are high end in the Lexus range and low impedance. The Parrot has its own amp so you would expect multiple speakers to be blown, not just one or two. Even the Parrots own small amp. If the Parrot is cutting off the connection to one of the new speakers, then they can bypass just that speaker being controlled by the Parrot if the engineer is any good and you will still have the use of the HF. It could still be a Lexus amp problem or just a plain sticky relay in the parrot system. (or even a faulty new speaker - I've had that before) It does sound as if at least one speaker was faulty though because replacing it cured the issue with that one. Make sure you keep the old speakers just in case it is a wiring issue and the connection has been re-made temporarily. I think you mentioned in the other post that you felt it was coming in and out. At least then you can get a refund on the replacement speakers if this is the case.

The sills and anti dazzle mirror were pre-facelift. Mine is a 56 plate and has them. I think it was the difference between the SE and SE-L so you mind find those at a breakers. The closing mirrors you will need to add hardware as the electronics aren't in controller on the older models. They aren't actually connected to the ecu, they are hard-wired. There's a thread going on at the moment - you can buy a kit. I'm looking at adapting the one I developed for the IS200 but haven't got around to it yet.

Loads of happy owners. Mine is a 56 plate and no probs. By the number of owners on this site alone, the failure percentage is smaller than average. Usually it is just the ribbon cable anyway and be easily repaired but lots of places are just fitters and want to replace the full unit.

Every lexus cam I've come across has been 6v not 12v. Its possible just the voltage regulator has gone. White is the signal and one of the blacks signal ground. You would have to try both - you will do no damage other than get a fuzzy picture. If you have a video player of any sort with a composite output (camcorder, portable DVD player, etc.) connect its output to the signal line and throw the car in reverse. If the picture comes up you know it is the supply at fault. Disconnect the camera to make sure its not gone short circuit and bringing the voltage down. If it works with the signal and the supply voltage is there, probably your best bet is to buy another camera as mcleish suggests but you'd need to connect its power to the reversing lamp 12v supply rather than the original loom to the camera. If there is no supply voltage, try introducing a 5v supply to the camera wiring (disconnect the power from the loom so it doesn't back feed). The cameras work fine on 5v. Then you can get a simple 5v regulator from ebay for a couple of quid tops. I don't know where the regulator is on the RX but if you can't find it, you could always wire the 12v side to the reversing lamp, then the 5v to the exisiting camera.