Geoffers

Full wiring diagram HERE

You could replace with any differnt reversing cam if you can break into the signal out from the exisiting camera. As most are 12v, you'd need to take its power from the reverse feed because the lex cameras are 6v. There are a lot of rubbish caneras on Ebay so worth asking for demo's of the output day and night if you're going to buy.

Absolutely Geoff. The market will be flooded with them. Here's a neat one already - Goodmans - should be released over the next few months. Instead of plugging in headphones, a jack-jack will plug straight into the AUX in on the 250. These type have some clever signal amplification but until analogue is switched off, we won't get full power transmissions on the DAB side so depending on your area it may not work in the centre console - it may mean clipping to your visor on the dash or even an internal antenna for DAB. (You can get splitters for existing but means a little work connecting to original wiring). As we have a couple of years to go, it may not be worth investing just yet unless you particularly want DAB as there are some good units on the horizon. There are some clever internal antennas too:

A portion of the current radio spectrum of FM it will be used up by other transmissions and the rest assigned to DAB. Talksport and Heart is already in a lot of areas. You can check HERE There will be tons of DAB devices to plug into AUX in's as many are in the pipeline for the 2015 switch off of analogue.

I'm not entirely convinced they only need to be near the key with Lexus as they need to be there during a transaction to get enough information from the key. They can actually interrogate the key anywhere near you but it would only start a negotiation handshake - there isn't enough information to get any part of the encryption codeset. It's very easy to get the info though parked next to a lex in car parks - supermarkets, cinemas, etc. If they wanted your car badly enough simply leaving a unit hidden near your premesis, in bushes, etc. that stores any data. Some of the legitimate data diagostic devices are put to use by criminals unfortunately.That's the key side of things. In saying that, there could be some poor part of the encryption sysytem that forces it to give out information we don't know about yet! Relocating the port and changing the connector is only a delay tactic really but hopefully enough to make them give up. We all know where the port is and so do the thieves. If, say for instance I moved my port into the boot and changed its connector, firstly the thieves would break into my car expecting it to be in its normal place. (Alarm hopefully sounding) Then they look for the port to plug the equipment in. Not in its usual place so they have to look in they glove compartment, feeling up behind dash, in the footwell, behind the ECU's - they've not even got to the boot yet. If/when they eventually do they can't plug their system in because I've changed the plug and simply made myself a little adapter! Are they now going to spend more time cutting back the wires to join onto their coms unit? (they'll have to break into their connector to to join the wires) Assuming of course they actually find the connector in the first place if its well hidden. Could be a simple solution to a problem. Can't do any harm anyway.

Well, they need to be in close proximity to gain enough info from the key and then gain access the the port within the car at a later time. As the port is physically re-routable, it could be time to move the port elsewhere behind the dash - even in the boot. It not being physically where they expected is going to slow down the job while they look for it. Even changing the connector and making your own adapter would be a start.

It looks like you can just take a signal from pin1 and 2 of the player for the signal. If sending to two DVD screens so 3 total, I would use a signal amplifier so there's no loss across screens. HERE is a 7way amp - £30 from CPC, but I've seen 4 way's for about £20 there, just can't find it. If you have the system open to do the hack, I'd be tempted to cut the wire to pin1 to see if the signal goes off. You can always re-join it.

On the IS250 auto, if you switch ign off with it still in Drive, it leaves the radio on. What happens if you switch it off while still in gear?

They're factory fitted CAT1 alarms not just immobilisers. Is it the doors that don't work or the movement senor? or Both?

HERE are instructions I did when running a wire from the door so has the panel removal details.

I still have the 05 disk in there as there aren't enough changes to bother me enough to swap out. It has never let me down. On the odd place it hasn't found when looking, I've just looked up the nearest road and used that or looked it up on google maps and used the co-ords and entered them (you have to use degs not decimal) You can only use the first 4 characters of the postcode - full postcode is not available. Sound system excellent. Yes there are failures as with any but suspect it is the lower percentage of average equipment failure judging by what I've seen.

There is a fair amount of wind/road noise. Not much worse than simllar in its class, but certainly not quiet.

There is a boot light but they aren't the brightest in the world. Dead centre near the front. I'd go with damp in the ECU too, especially with the symptoms you describe as that is where the control is.

If its randomly in web pages then it is the coding used for for an ampersand. You don't generally see it though - is it in user posts or the make up of pages? Either the coding of the pages is a little rough or there's a problem with the browser. (assuming I'm waffling on about the same thing you are)

Does it have the hack? i.e. lets you use the phone features while driving? Also watch a DVD while driving? I've seen this not done correctly and it showed the symptoms you are describing.

Actually, Jomo is right - I was just thinking about the conections on one side not both. Try testing with a small length of wire at the battery to check each part of each led lamp as wellas Jomo's suggestions of one by one. (or fogs/rear pairs) It is possible in your wiring you have the brake light circuit wired to the rear light circuit. This wouldn't matter with a bulb as it would just act like a large resistor rather than a short.

I would have expected some sort of connection, even to a different plug but maybe they just cut out and taped up. Only option really is to re-make all the connections - if you're careful there looks to be just enough wire on. I'd use heat shrink tubing with that rather than tape as they are so close. There should be another connector behind there somewhere unless its the model without the amp.

Wen, If I'm reading this correctly you've done the wiring for brake lights and standard backlights to illuminate through the foglight? (as well as fog working normally) If so, you need a dual element bulb. That LED looks like it is single element and depending on its physical make up might by shorting the two circuits, hence the fuse blowing. Will you take a photo of the LED lamp you are using and of the bulb that actually works and post it here for us to see? Try and get the connections on the bottmom of the bulb clearly.

Its not a software update as the electronics aren't there to support it. you can take a further couple of relays off the mirror closure and connect to your window control. Have a look HERE

Yeah loads of times, sometimes half, sometimes all the way. Dealer kept saying it was me pushing the keyfob. I found it hard to believe I was leaning on the keyfob until I was actually in my front room and heard the beep through the window and I was sitting funny with my keyfob squashed in my pocket.... I read you can have it disabled at the dealers but I think it depends on the firmware in the control ECU.

Do you mean "R-"? That could explain the odd sound and fuse blowing. Its really odd though as I've installed loads of these across the models and never come across that one. Interesting to keep a note of though - do you have any photo's I can add to my 'oddments' list? Here's the diagram - there's no t&b updates for it. Hey, as long as its working that's the main thing. Happy days.

Yep, dodgy01 is dead right. Maplins code N42AW, £4.99 but not always in stock. If not you can use two double pole changeover relays.

Seems like a short across the relay. You shouldn'thear anything without the power to the relay - the head unit should just be playing normally. What model relay or switch did you use? Best bet is to take a photo and post back here.

Thank you so very much Ray. Its not too late - its all about raising money in for them so I'm just going to keep doing stuff. I know 6 miles its only a token gesture realy but it was a way rather than asking straight out, plus my own health isn't too good anymore so I'll probably not manage more. This walk is the 19th but still accepting until the end of July for it. Its an ongoing thing. As its setup with justgiving, I'm going to let it just carry on running for the next one.

MAF = mass airflow sensor. It measures the flow of incoming air so the ECU can adjust for the correct fuel amount.