bazgtr

Why don't new members use the search window for problems all ready covered. As mentioned in my previous threads sometime over the last two years I stated that the cost from Lexus was £170 for a set of two master keys along with a new chip for the boot to work with the buttons and central locking. Please note that if the locks on any door or boot have been changed then you are beggered as Lexus will only have the details of lock from when the car was made(chassis number). Looking at the pic you have the master key. If it's not working on your central locking then change the battery. Also check if the key fits all locks and under the dash etc to make sure it's the correct key. If any of the locks have been changed then you won't be able to use it for the purpose and would have to find where the lock came from(car details) to allow lexus to make a key that works.

Dont pull it, it might stiffen up :D I like that. I wonder if he was sitting in the drivers seat and though of his thread title when looking down?

If you search the forum and find my post on ls400 servicing and parts costs etc. That will tell you how much things are and where I've bought them from. There is also other posts from other members where they got their parts.

It's french it will break down in two months of ownership. The amount of warrenty work I do and see on new french cars is behond believe. It's got to the stage that my garage mates have stopped selling any french cars as the problems they bring after is too much head work, time and cost. E.M. light is the curse of the french car. And before anybody states I've got one that doesn't break down then count yourself very lucky. MY TOP TIP. Next time you're on a motorway note down the cars you see on the hard shoulder with it's hazards on and keep a record and you'll soon see a pattern over time.

If I get time friday I'll ring him and help him out. I need more information on whats happening and how it's happened.

I've had a check and the list only contains some of the factory colours and what they are for. So do you have the wires diagram from the unit you fitted to match up the wires?

If you have your brake light on but have new pads then thats only one thing thats wrong. The brake pad sensor is damaged. Loads of threads on this but just cutthe wires strip and tie them together to cancel out the warning light. It's a common fault. To get into the rear lgih clusters you just need to remove the three or four clips or the interior boot trim and the rear boot plastic surround that sits on the boot lock lip. You can then pull back the trim a little in the corner. There's two 8 or 10mm nuts holding the light on. Undo them and pop out the light. Easy job but could be easier from the design is not the best.

Here we go. BAZGTR's LEXUS OWNERS TOP TIP. If you want the cheapest tyres in your area then just find out the local garage the TAXI drivers go to. They are the tightest of the tight and will always know the best place for budgets. END OF TIP. I pay around £35 for a Nankang for the size you want. There are others just around the same price. Your other problem unpredictable suspension feeling There is so much to cause this include your first lexus drive. If you haven't driven one of these cars before it will feel a little loose as they are desgined for comfort not cornering fast. If you want to change one thing then change the front drop links and let me know if that's better. One other mods is to get some front and rear strut braces, This will stop your wandering feel and let you corner much better.

I've got a similar unit with dvd gps etc fitted. Never answered my question. What happen to your illumination on the centre buttons. Orange wire must have been connected. With previous wiring ls owners don't do bypass, You just haven't got the right wires/lives for the factory amp to run properly to make the sub go. If you get change can you take a pic of the connectors and the wires on the back of the unit all connected. I can then look at my wires to make sense of where I went wrong if any.

Right I'm a little confused on this. What people mean is that you normally lose the factory amp as the connector for it does not conect to anything on an aftermarket unit. There is two plugs one with the speakers and lines to the back of the car and the other with the power and earths etc. Looking at your connections you haven't reconected the button illumination lines for the buttons on the centre dash, So can you tell me if they all light up in the night and also your lcd clock etc lights up as they are not listed above. Also does your aerial always come up when the car is on or when you just active the stereo unit power button? Let me know more information please.

This could be many things but check these two things first. Play in one of the upper ball joints. The cluck is when the weight/force of the car breaking moving forward under load and putting extra pressure on the joint and just makes then noise on the suspension strut as it moves. The other is that the spring or springs(There is two per set of pads) on the brake pads are no longer there and they are clonking into place on heavy breaking under brake pressure. My option would be the first, upper arm ball joint. There are other things to check but look at them first before going any futher.

The N/S front is the same eco contact with 3mm left. The O/S front is a cheaper Federal tyre with around 7mm left. There's the reason your car is pullint to the left. When you swap them around it will go the other way. Reason is not the depth of tread but the wear on the inside edge of the tyre. When you replace tyres on a car always do them as a pair or even better all four. It will seem like a new car. If you've got standard alloys 16inch then you are looking at about £32 to £38 a tyre from any large dealer who does the budgets. Quite a few to choice from. If you need makers names then just ask.

Not sure on the mk3 but if like the mk1 and mk2 you will lose the rear sub. What people do is run new wiring to the rear and fit a new sub and new speaker to get the same sound. I have the wiring diagrams from the earlier models if you want it.

Items are all advisory so don't worry about any of them really. I can answer all of them but the thread would be 10 pages long, So I'll try and keep it simple. 1) Lack of use, Go and floor the car just before the next MOT and clean out the system a bit with some power. 2 & 3) If you don't do a lot of millage then don't bother. A pair are around £60 - £80. Run your finger over the disc. If it feels quite level with no lip on the edge then don't worry. 4 & 5) As above. These wear down even less than fronts so don't worry. You will have to get new pads if you fit new discs as you can't put old pads on new discs, They will just wear grooves onit. 6) You can get new drop links on ebay for around £25 a set or can get new poly bushes from pri racing. If not listed just measure them and he'll match them up. 7 & 8) These are linked so just get them checked. Get it up on a local garage ramp you can trust and check to see if previous owner haven't hit a kerb hard during the winter etc and bent the steering arm as he was old. Also get them to check the bolts holding the sterring arm on and the bushes. You will not get charged for this at any good garage. 9) Car is not new so rust will show full stop. Just ignore or unless you want to get a wire brush and clean up a little. 10) Easy one new tyre and check your tracking or the streering rack if car wearing down the oneside more than the other. 11) Just ask any local garage to tighten up the rear hub handbrake screw inside the rear hub. Easy to do, About 15mins and should charge you around £20 if any. 12) As 11. Tightenand adjust the handbrake adjuster screw in the rear hub. You can get them cleaned out if desired. Also top note don't use KWIK FIT as they are rubbish and always fishing for work. They are just tyre and exhuast people. On a lighter note I remember years ago taking a BMW 5series to BMW for thier £45 car check. They came back with 63 faults and problems they found. How many did I replace. Answer NONE in the three years I had the car. Only tyres replaced. So please note that a advisory is just that and not a fail.

With the wondering do one quick thing and let me know. Swap the front wheels around with each other and let me know what happens in a straight line. To make a more solid feel at speed you can do loads of things but as you want to spend no money I can't advise. You just have normal wear and tear on everything. Things get weaker with age like humans.

Fully built and fitted Longlife set. You choose the design they fit. Top work but at a top price. Around £99 a back box or ask them to do it for £150 cash for both sides(wink,Wink).

I can't see how some grease in the rear CV joints will cure vibration and braking from the front. Could if one was missing as that would upset the balance on the one side, But then the problem would always be there until replaced. Let me know when the vibration returns. On a lighter note you say you have a vibration about 1% of the time. It's not when you go any vist some friends in the country and end up driving over a cattle grid? Hehe.

There's quite a few things to do and check to find the problem but I can say through experience it's an easy fix, Just loads of things it could be. If you're stuck send me your phone number and I'll instruct you in a few things to try to find the fault.

Sounds changes differ from maker to maker. You can you tube some videos if you want to hear some different sounds from them. Ihave some RSR from japan on mine, They have a four inch wide exit. Have a look at the exit shape and then decide what type you want to go for. If you want a full on noise then remove the middle silencers and fit a straight through sytem. Also get an air induction kit fitted if you want a more louder roar on accelerating from the front. That turns heads when flooring it.

In respect I can see after reading your first reply they would say check your front balancing on the alloy as wheel weights do fall off. What you can try is drive at 30mph and then at 70 mph and let me know. Also get upto 50mph and brake hard and let me know if the sterring shacks at all. Another thing is there a thump in the box when you change to D and when you press down to engage the kickdown on the box. You get a thump as the box kicks in?

Hi, Sorry I have gone as far as I can, Maybe other Ebay users can help...Good Luck. Got to say I think I've gone far enough reading it. I think you left out the word thick somewhere. Matey, Just select buy it know and press confirm you want the item, Then just ask seller for the full costs with UK postage. You then wait unitl you get that email and then select payapl and pay the full amount required. You will go into ebay US but don't worry about it as once paied you can just close the window and then relog in the uk site and all will be there in pounds.

Firstly what are you looking for and whats your budget ££££ on it. Different budgets have different options. Have doen most things for the ls400 including mine.

There's also an aftermarket new one. http://www.napolex.com/index2.html

You will need to swop the red and black wires, as Lexus do their own thing - they have 12 volts on all three headlamp connectors, then switch to a negative when the lights are turned on. Unless the kit is specifically for a Lexus, and wired for it- mine wasn't. Check out the photos earlier in this thread hi mate thank you for your reply the handy thing is is the two wires are seprate and not in a plug so ill look at the pic that was post earlyer in this thread hope these will match my led side lights regards neil i fitted my hid kit today but the headlights will not come back on arfter using main beam as i mentioned in my last post mine is a two wire kit thanks in advance neil I've covered this problem before in a previous reply. Read the full thread and both pages of it.