bazgtr

This ebay seller will sort you out new led ones that keep their colour unlike UK ones as resistor fitted to them. I've just done all the dash blue with them. LINK and ebay name. warden_jp2002 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2pcs-T3-T4-T5-Neo-We...=item3359c87476

I know. Number of things, but have all the answers I do.

Any local garage can do the rear bushes as very easy and it's quite hard to mess that up. if you haven't got a press then some heat from a welder will loosen the bush and then while still hot hit out. A socket on a bar does the trick, Just make sure the socket is slightly smaller than the hole. Bushes as mentioned before can be bought from PRI racing, Straight fit and easy to put in. It will take you about an hour to get the old ones out and about 2mins to get he new ones in. Also if you've got some squeak or creak while gooing over speed humps just spray soem wd40 etc around the rubber at the top of the suspension. Do it from under the bonnet so the oil soaks into the rubber, As sometimes the dry rubber squeaks while going over speed humps. If that cures it then you have to remover the suspension and greese up the top rubber for a longer cure. PS there tidy garages everywhere just got to know who they are. Were are one, But too far for you in Swansea. The rear trailing arm is what you're pointing at. Easy fix. Jack car up and get the bar off. From there on it's press or heat and hammer. Make sure you've got the new bushes ready to go in.

I've had no problems with lexus in Leicester which I've used quite a few times over the phone and also Lexus Derby when buying parts from them off ebay, All been OK and the right part. With your car there's so many things that can be wrong at the front. Firstly does the car pull a direct left or right while drving in a striaght line? Try tracking if that doesn't work the swap the front tyres around left to roght and right to left etc. See if that makes the car go the other way. Also wobble on breaking can also be a buckle in the alloy. You can also swap the front tyres with the back and see if that improves the car. At least then you know the ones that went to the back have the problem somewhere. As for the creaking while sitting in the car turn the steering wheel left and right and have someone to look at the upper arm ball joint to see if it's moving with the wheel. This nut should not move at all, If so just tighten the nut. These will then stop the creaking while going over bumps. It has a looking pin below it and I think it's a 19mm nut or 21mm. As for the rear you can get some trailing arm bushes from pri racing. Do both side front and back.

I would have just either put up with it until xmas over and just spray some wd40 on it if it was making a noise. It's not a part that fails and must be done straight away. Also you should know what the country is like by now. It's the same every xmas. Rubbish. On a better note at least when you get your lexus back it will feel much better and like a new car compared to the mazda you've been driving. If you drive a car everyday you can forget how it felt the first time you drove it. Sometimes you need time away to remember how good it is.

Here you go. http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...%3D320%26um%3D1 Hope that helps.

WTF? The rason you find the badge missing is that the ls400 is stuck on and sometimes starts to fall over time and then people remove them. You can't remove the lexus name as the badge has location holes underneath and if you remove the badge you have about six holes in the boot. I myself took all the badges off, Filled the holes and resprayed the boot and put new badges on it. Ones I wanted. If you replace the ls400 and badge will do, But for the lexus badge then it must have the location holes on it to stop water getting into the boot.

This is so easy. Price, Shape and Age. How's that, What do I win? Here's a good link for your answers. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lexus_LS

Don't even get me started on uninsured drivers. Back in 1996 I was hit side on. Hit and run. Found the car but couldn't prove who was driving as one party saying to police that they weren't driving. Car should have been scapped as showen on logbook six months earlier. My problem that I found that my car was written off, Just spent £2,000 on a new engine a week earlier and then forced to by another car to get to work at the same time my insurance doubled as very young at time and seen as a high risk. Morale of the story is the crash cost/lost me over £8,000 and a lot of paperwork. The driver who hit me got nothing and just bought another £200 banger and back on the road. And the POLICE were useless. If you do get hit get the traffic police there straight away even if nobody is hurt. Insurance company handle the claim better and quicker when they have a police statement on the events of the crash.

I had a traction problem today outside my house, Car went sideways until the sun came out and the the traction problem went.

code 41 (throttle position sensor signal) If this has never been off the car and you have a signal from it, I would say it's very fine nut just the computer getting the wrong signals from the sensors on the exhuast sensor. Some cheap new ones on ebay USA. As for emissions, new cats maybe on the way being a 1990 model. Try sensors first and reset the ecu.

Sounds more like the ball joint has popped and not the bushes on the arms. Just out a prey bar in there and see whats loose before replacing. On full lock check as the lower bushes as well.

The clunk under breaking is the top locking nut not fully tight. If you wiggle the steering wheel left and right while on the floor get someone to watch the nut turning and stopping. This nut should not move at all on the ball joint. There is a little play and gives this clunk while turning under breaking normally. The nut will not come loose and fall off but just comes a knats manhood loose. There is a saftey clip also keeping it on. If you've change the upper arms with the ones from ebay USA seem to give this little problem. As for pads the blue prints squeak a bit if you get a bad set. There's plenty of geniune factory ones from sellers on ebay. If aftermarket there's only one brake pad maker which is 99% spot on and that's ferodo. Used many times on the track and never let me down. Great pad in a Brembo caliper with DBA discs.

Brilliant, thank you. Be warned that the ebay ones just don't fit the UCF11 models and you can't modify them to fit. The Base stem is slightly different(doesn't fully close) and the brass ring at the bottom of the mast is different aswell(too wide for the hole). Check their ebay feedback. I'm on there somewhere saying it doesn't fit. I've been there and done that with two so called factory fit ones that retail around £14 each. My top tip is to follow the the link above to remove and find out whats wrong. If it's just the mast nylon teeth then just get one off lexus direct. It worked out cheaper if I have done it that way in the beginning. I've also bought two used ones and they where not fully working. One wouldn't power up and the other also had a bent base stem so wouldn't fully close. There is a universal one you can use on ebay for around £20. You will need to get the live and earth out of the lexus factory plug for it to work. A word of warning is that you can't get it to shut unless the key is out as doesn't work off the factory radio. Also the locking nut likes to rust quickly. Mine went after one week and I have to clean it every week before the rust runs down the side of the car. I've bit the bullet and have ordered a new lexus one. Waiting for it to arrive.

Replace as they are cheap and easy enough. Also newer better sound.

If you do brake the wire then you can wire the sensor wires together. Make sure that you solder the end and then put some shrinking plastic over that. This will then stop any rooting on the join and also stop the wire touching anything metal on the car which makes the warning lights come on again. You can just search the net to check the part numbers for your car. Remember the ls400 1993-1994 UCF11 has different size pads to the 1990-1992 model UCF10.

Common vault on the ls400 and well written about. The joins go and you need two cats and a centre section to replace. You have a few options. 1) Temp fix is two weld over the join to stop blowing etc. DONE THIS. 2) Get some flanges from the internet from http://www.lextreme.com/allgo.html 3) Two cats and centre section. 4) Cut the flanges off both sides and get some new flanges/joins.DONE THIS Any local exhuast dealer will have something to match up. 5) Go the full hog and get a Longlife exhuast system fitted. They will also have the joins to fit. 6) If you want them to get cats then get them fitted the same time as the longfife system. DOING THIS SOON £400. You can also get some from a breakers or someone breaking a car. Go and view first to see if the joins are OK or can be fixed before fitting. The cats are around £140 each or you can get some univesal ones from US and then get a flange for it(Option 2). I bought a nearly new as you can get in mint condition(logo still on mesh inside the cat) from Japan for £120 with postage. Hope that helps.

Here's an update on the hid wiring. For those who bought a kit with three wires you need a kit with two wires on the lights. I just ordered some new lights only from ebay china for £15 with postage and swapped them with the current ballast. This then makes the light fully blue looking without the old little blub lighten up on on the hid kit. For the sie lights I have bought around five diffent types and have yet to find a proper looking one. I have just order a multi led side light style to see if that improves the all round light in the holder.

How much did all that cost you Baz? and where did you get the clear indicators from There's a thread on here for how much I spent on the service. It's under thread title ls400 service 18 hours to do. All the parts I've changed where listed on there with costs and part numbers. There is also a thread on Parkers buying guide. Just have a look for the listing 1993 ls400 model in owners reviews. That's was done with millage at 154,000. Have now done 194,000 this week so 50,000miles covered in just over two years and all good. Mostley all the aftermarket parts like lights and chrome parts are and cheapest from the US Ebay. You now have quite a few options on what you want. Just check out EBay US on the advanced search. Cost of parts and conversion of other parts/alloys are most likely to be twice as much as the car was to buy.

Thats your choice. How loud do you want to go. Any sextons shop would easily advise. Remember there are two wires you need to join together for the factory illumation lights to work on the centre dash of the ls400. There's a thread with me saying which ones to join up somewhere. Use the search.

I've got a touchscreen double din fitted with freeview tv fitted. You don't need to change anything on the car other then taken a few wires for live and earth etc off the old factory connectors. You will loose the rear amp speaker when fitting aftermarket or unless you get another amp connected to your stereo. You get then get the surround from the US which is a straight fit. Around £10.

All the clear lights can be found on ebay usa. You can go onto the UK site and then go into advanced serach and select country items located in and use the drop down box to highlight items in USA. That should list the clear lenses you require. I think they were around £20-£30 with the shipping for a 1990-94 set.

The car does corner quickly if set up right. Get some front and rear strut braces to stop the body roll and looseness around the corners. Can get them from RHD japan. Makes a massive cornering difference. Have them on my car along with new anti roll bar links off ebay for about £25 a set and fitted some pri racing poly bushes around the back to get a solid feel. Good tyres are a must aswell. I use Bridgestone potenza's. After that you either get some lowering springs or a coilover set for the best cornering effect. Example is before mods my cornering around a certain corner my way was 50mph and now 80mph safely.

I have the IS300 18 alloys which have been refurbed. They suit the car really well. Pic in my profile. Another thing I would do is to go for 18" with 245/45/18 fitted. The car will tram line more than the standard alloys. There's loads of alloys out there that will fit. There was a new set on ebay of silver 18inch for £220+postage last week. Nice five spoke design.

The last owner bought one off Ebay and it doesn't fit. I still have it in the boot. I think I will just disconnect and fit a universal type. My only question was if I cut the power to the moter it will effect anything else. This car seems to have more electrics than my Old Fiat 126 You don't have to cut and wires to fit a uni aerial. Just use the factory plug that connects to the motor in the boot. There's a live, key live and an earth on it. You need a very small screwdriver to push out the metal clip connectors in the factory plug. If I can remember while looking at the plug there are the top right, bottom right and one hole in and bottom right third/fourth in for the correct wires. The aerial will then go up and down on the key. Just remember to turn off key in car wash. You can just wires the uni aerial wires around the metal factory ones incase you refit a factory aerial again.