SteJ

Had similar problem on my 98 GS few months ago. Had front tyres tracked & balanced, and was diagnosed by 'tyre specialist' as wanting wheel bearing. Took 4 a second opinion, to find wear on inside of one of rear tyres, verging on egging, to be the problem. Didn't think this would affect to extent of the wobble I was getting, but it did. Ste J.

The LPG is kept in a different tank to your petrol, so the sensors for the petrol gauge will surely be reading the contents of the petrol tank. It is unlikely that the gas tank is the same size as your petrol tank, so the gauge would need to be re-calibrated by some sort of electrical jiggery-pokery when flicked from petrol to gas. My motor has a seperate LED gauge which kicks-in when flicked over, and also indicates which fuel you are running on.

Hmmm, 34p a litre is 'only a bit cheaper', Whatever.......................

Bought my 1997 Mk 1 GS 16mths ago, already converted to LPG. Runs absolutely fantastic, no problems during my ownership thus far (covered approx. 20,000 miles during this time). Running on gas I get about 23mpg. I currently pay around 34p/litre for my gas, so reckon I am getting the equivalent of 46/50mpg compared to petrol. Power/performance is virtually the same, and you can flick from one to the other at 80mph and not be able to tell the difference. Yes, LPG prices are rumoured to rise, but to be fair, petrol does also at almost every Budget announcement. The likelyhood of petrol & LPG prices meeting are pretty slim in my opinion. Steve J.

Went through all this myself over past few months, starting with brake pads, fluid etc. As it was intermittent, I dismissed the bulb being blown, but knew that when the warning light came on, my o/s brake light went out. I ended up re-soldering the bulb holder wiring/housing and replacing the cable with new. 2 days later the warning lamp came on again! Turned out to be a faulty bulb after all (not blown - but had a dodgy fillament connection) Regards, Steve J.

Try and catch Randyraindeer. I'v seen him on here now & again. He had a similar problem with his MK1 GS, and I think he sourced a Pioneer CD holder/cassette which fitted. (I'm sure if you PM'd him he would oblige) Regards, Steve J.

Had the following in an e-mail, found it quite funny................................ ****GM vs MICROSOFT***** At a recent computer expo (COMDEX), Bill Gates reportedly compared the computer industry with the auto industry and stated: ''If GM had kept up with technology like the computer industry has, we would all be driving twenty-five dollar cars that got 1000 miles to the gallon.'' In response to Bill's comments, General Motors issued a press release stating (by Mr Welch himself): If GM had developed technology like Microsoft, we would all be driving cars with the following characteristics: 1. For no reason whatsoever your car would crash twice a day. 2. Every time they repainted the lines on the road you would have tobuy a new car. 3. Occasionally your car would die on the freeway for no reason, andyou would just accept this, restart and drive on. 4. Occasionally, executing a maneuver such as a left turn, would cause your car to shut down and refuse to restart, in which case you would have to reinstall the engine. 5. Only one person at a time could use the car, unless you bought ''Car95'' or ''CarNT.'' But then you would have to buy more seats. 6. Macintosh would make a car that was powered by the sun, reliable, five times as fast, and twice as easy to drive, but would only run on five per cent of the roads. 7. The oil, water temperature and alternator warning lights would be replaced by a single ''general car default'' warning light. 8. New seats would force everyone to have the same size butt. 9. The airbag system would say ''Are you sure?'' before going off. 10. Occasionally for no reason whatsoever, your car would lock you out and refuse to let you in until you simultaneously lifted the door handle, turned the key, and grab hold of the radio antenna. 11. GM would require all car buyers to also purchase a deluxe set of Rand McNally road maps (now a GM subsidiary), even though they neither need them nor want them. Attempting to delete this option would immediately cause the car's performance to diminish by 50% or more. Moreover, GM would become a target for investigation by the Justice Department. 12. Every time GM introduced a new model car buyers would have to learn how to drive all over again because none of the controls would operate in the same manner as the old car. 13. You'd press the ''start'' button to shut off the engine.

Do you mean 'packed in' as in not blowing cold, or 'packed in' as in not blowing? I found my air-con to be working fine 12mths ago (Jan) but come the summer when it was really needed, was at best only blowing cool. Took it to a mate who does commercial air-con, but the odd car foreigner, who informed me that there is most probably a leak. There was a green fluid amidst the gas/air-con 'juice' which he reliably informs me is added to assist in finding leaks. He gassed it up for me and it was great for about 3 mths or so, and slowly became less cold as time went on. He just advised me to fetch it back next summer and he would gas it back up for me (only charged £10 and a pint!). This suits me, and is likely to be cheaper than a full air-con service/fix. There are small windows in the 'H' and 'L' valves on the air-con circuit. These should be clear (i.e. not green as previously mentioned), and should not have bubbles in (i.e. air) Regards, Steve J

Recently upgraded to broadband and decided to network 3 of my family PC's together. I was going to go wireless for ease of installation, but eventually hard-wired everything via CAT5 cables/plugs and hub. It is more mither to set up initially, but the overall cost (£5 per 100mbps network card, £35 for network hub kit, £5 for RJ45 'phone' type wall-socket) and performance outweighed the wireless option for me. Transferring files (i.e. 800mb video CD's etc.) from one PC to another is pretty quick, and the online speeds do not deteriorate when everyones on t'internet. I've run the job laptop on a spare socket and had a total of 4 machines online, gaming, downloading, the works, no mither at all. Would easily recommend a wired system.

If you're still sweating over this, you'll know for definate after 14days. It is a legal requirement to serve a Notice of Intended Prosecution for various offences (speeding being one of them) upon the REGISTERED KEEPER of the vehicle within 14days. If the car is in your name, you will know one ay or another after a fortnight.

I get around 320miles to 35 quid!! ;)

I do the M6/M62 every day from Warrington way twds Rochdale, not seen any on that stretch. Can't comment on the West Yorks side though. Probably another jolly wheeze by somebody on 'tinternet.

I've just had similar problems, and eventually bottomed it as the rear tyres. They were not down to the tread bars, but already on my list of 'things to do' due for replacement. I initially had the wobble down to tracking/balancing. Took it to one 'specialist' who balanced wheels; tracking was tested as o.k., but identified play in both ball joints. A suitable quote for around £200 for replacement of both sides was givenby the gentleman, as was a 'leave it with me' from myself. A friend of mine in the car game took it to one of his garage-mates, who said that there was nothing wrong with the ball joints, tracking was a touch out, but more importantly, and correctly (as the problem was remedied) diagnosed that the wobble was caused by rear tyres. One was starting to egg, which didn't help. This would be hard to spot unless wheel is off. Might be different problem than that affecting yours, but symptoms appear the same. My initial theory that the wobble was generated by the front-end, as opposed to the back. Steve J.

Cheers Paul, I will try to have a look over the weekend and 'survey' the task from underneath. I'll check the earth strap while under there, and might be able to fix it there & then. I need to square off with my auto-sparky mate when I can drop it off before I actually remove it. I've been tapping the solenoid with a hammer, which seems to cure it when the problem arises (usually from/in cold) but as you say, I might be moving the earth strap whilst doing this. 'Spose I could get Jill to do it...............................

I've identified an intermittent starter motor problem with my MK1 GS, and need to remove it at some stage to get it refurbed. Anybody out there had a go at this who can give me some tips. I've had a brief shufty and it looks like some gaenacological skills would come in handy to get anywhere near it. I've known a guy for years who is in the starter/alternator game and he has fixed anything I've ever chucked at him for mere beer voucher money. Any help appreciated, cheers, Steve J