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kev dood

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Everything posted by kev dood

  1. Did you get this sorted? I have exactly the same problem with my 01 (X) IS200 and the rear disc. I cannot work out why the shoe mounting plate is so close to the groove in the back of this disc, unless they have slightly modified the plate on newer models and the discs they now sell are no longer compatible??
  2. Well, I got round to doing my front caliper since the old one kept suffering from a sticking piston. Also did all the discs and pads on the car. Which has now lead to a problem - which I believe may have been discussed before?? Basically, when I installed the new rear disc, the "wheel/disc" would spin freely, but as soon as I put on a wheel nut (to hold the disc in place) and tried to turn the disc it would stiffen up and then no longer be able to move! After a while of head scratching and checking it wasn't the hadnbrake shoes catching on the drum section, I noticed that the backing plate that sits just behind the shoes (the rim can be see in the similar photo in this post linky) was rubbing on the back of the new disc. If you look at the rear of the disc, there is a sunken section just after the pad face and before it drops down into the drum section. It would appear that either this "groove" is either not deep enough as the rear plate (which is definately not deformed) is rubbing in this groove. When I look at the old disc (which was installed by Lexus years ago) it has a worn groove in this sunken groove section, so its obviously a problem thats happened before. My question is, has many other people noticed this - and if so, what is the cause/rectification. I am currently driving around with a car that has a loud scraping noise and its not nice!! I am sure over time it will wear one or the other part down enough to stop, but I wonder if Lexus slightly changed either the size of this lip on the backing plate rim, or the depth of this sunken area on the disc? Ormi - is this something that you have ever noticed in your work? Any help will be greatly appreciated. I am gonna give Lexus Swindon a call tomorrow (bought the parts from LexusCarParts) to see what they say. Surely it cannot be right, as a customer would not accept this noise once driving away from Lexus if they had fitted them? BTW - I am sure this is not the Dust plate rubbing on the disk, but it is the handbrake shoe mounting plate!
  3. umm, thats slightly different to mine (2001 Jan X reg - therefore a 12 00 car). I don't have the item D bit I think - at least not that I saw recently when doing the rear discs. Is this a pic of the IS200 rear shoe arrangement? The hub looks different too.
  4. I used to think the same, but my car is an 01 X now (on 65k) and I don't think it will add a bean. When you think what the car is worth and how much extra you will pay, you will never get it back.
  5. Umm, found that out ta. 32mm Vented. Guess maybe some are batch codes?
  6. Does anyone know if the case markings on the caliper body are mega important? Mine say 32V then a 7 L and then 0YL on one half of the caliper casing and 0ZL on the other. I was wondering is the 7 L (the L being the left hand side caliper) was important as I seem to remember seeing 8 L on an image on Budweg/Brake Parts website. I guess what I really want to know is, can I put an 8 L part on my car as I need to replace the caliper? My car is an 01 X reg (12/00 dated).
  7. Ditto - good prices and parts are same as OEM - KYB Gas ones I think. Cannot remember the actual name but a search on here will bring it out.
  8. Hi Ormi, Are these prices still current? I need to get some parts to do the brakes on my IS200 soon! Also, will delivery be free? Thanks Kevin
  9. coool. Just gotta sort out the spacing around text in the forum listings and then you can have a break and a cuppa! hehe
  10. sod it - just noticed the fast reply bit at the bottom of the page!! grrrr - I must be getting old. However, could it be moved to above the advert banner?
  11. ahh, I see, yes you are right! hehe. But fast reply would be a nice thing to have back at somepoint too. Also, in one of Steves other posts in a different section, he mentioned about a REPORT and TOP button at the bottom left under avatar. I only see a report button and no top.
  12. See - I get it when I press the reply button!! :) How about the spacing on all the forum bits/topics, i.e spacing around that? Or is this in progress?
  13. cheers muchly. Just everything looks a bit "big" at the moment, needlessly so. Ah, just spotted a bug too. I just cliked on the add reply link - iniitially came up with fast reply and then changed to the big reply bit! Has fast reply gone now? Also, seems to add quote of previous post a lot into your reply which you then have to delete. Overall though, new design is nice - good work.
  14. crikey - thats not good. Personally I would take it up with the garage that serviced it, I presume they were the ones that changed the plugs? A little odd that it took 6 months to show an error though? Hope you can get it all sorted soon.
  15. new site looks OK, but thinks topic "bars" are massive compared to text size and looks a bit Windows XP ish!

  16. I notice that we now have a new forum design - nice ... in some ways, but I was wondering if there was a way of compressing the sizes and spaces down - it now looks like a 5yr olds Windows XP page with massive spaces between lines and topics etc. The nice thing about the old one was that it was fairly compressed so you could see lots of topic lines on a page before having to scroll down. Now the font might still be small, but there are huge spaces above and below each line before the topic "box" if you like finishes. Is there anyway to change any of this as it looks a bit odd at the mo! ta
  17. could be that you have warped your new discs rather than sticking calipers. Jack the car up and spin each wheel and see if they stick at any point - if so, then discs are warped. If not see if they spin freely. You could also pop the caliper off and slowly get someone to push brake pedal down and watch both the pistons. If they both move freely and you can push them back in fairly easily then they are probably fine. Lastly check the sliding pins. With wheel off and pads out, see if you can move the housing easily on the sliding pins. Is so, then again, all should be fine. The pins are known to corrode up and stick.
  18. The caliper reconditioning kit only contains seals etc for the brake calipers, not the master cylinder. Taking one of them apart is a little more involved I think. Ormi would know more as he is a Toyota Tech so could probably diagnose it better. If you were only testing the brakes on your own, how did you manage to get out and see which wheel turned ok - without relieving the pressure on the pedal? If so, then the wheel that would move is the normal one and the one that didn't is more of a concern. The drop link issues you mention won't cause any issues with the caliper piston movement. Just re-read your post - 2mm difference in the pistons being out will be due to uneven pressure put on the pad - I bet if you then looked at the pads for that wheel you would see that have worn unevenly, i.e. an angled wear on one end more than the other. But if you say you can push them in with relative ease then I would say your calipers are probably ok, in which case, as you say, you need to look elsewhere. You sure the ball joints were done OK?
  19. Well, if the pressure can't be held and the pads "come back" off the disc allowign you to rotate the wheel still, then it could be the master cylinder? Do you ever have problems where you get a firm pedal and then sometimes whilst still having foot on the pedal, the pedal starts to sink? Sometimes the seals can go in the cylinder - I would presume that if this was the case then as well as being able to rotate on front wheel, you should be able to rotate the opposite side rear also?? Don't the circuits cross or something? Could also just need the brake fluid changing though! But, if looking at the pistons, and it they are stiff in movement in and out and don't come out smoothly (not necessarily together mind) then I would say caliper. Don't shoot me if wrong though!
  20. Personally I didn't like the way the ball one moved - I think the pivot is in the wrong place as you want the front where the brush bar is to be able to move easily and that has fixed wheels! Whereas the Meile has got it 100% spot on. Castors at the front and is a dream to use. Only downside is bags (though if they can get excellent and consistant suction with it then fine) and its heavy. But its won all Which? awards so can't be too bad.
  21. Mine shook like mad when my caliper had seized and I was driving down the M3! :)
  22. There is a range I think that it should be in to pass MOT I thought. - when warm obviously. An auto will drop slightly when in gear - thats normal. From memory, think mine is around 800, depending on if air conn kicks in or not. When cold its about 1k, probably around 1200-1300?
  23. sounds like one or both of the pistons are sticking a bit. You can get a reconditioning kit (either from lexus at a very expensive £65 or so, or from other brake companies for around 15-20). Or you can buy a recon'd caliper from any car parts place (commnon parts are Brake international or Brake Engineering or Blueprint). All depends on how much hassle you want really, one would be a quick and simple swop, then other involves stripping the caliper down and cleaning it all up inside, removing pistons etc.
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