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wagonist

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  1. I've found a panel beater & an engineer to help me with this project. A$7k for cutting, welding, alignment & respray. Wrecks of local IS200 saloons go for around A$10k, & good IS300s still sell for A$30k. So if I get get the IS300 Sprotcross rear cut & running gear, I'm still ahead for a unique (for here) car.
  2. or access to the Toyota EPC so I know where the cuts need to be made. :winky: Yes, it'll probably cost me around A$10k for the conversion, but I'll have the only one is Australia then.
  3. If I wanted a Gita, I'd get one from New Zealand. Gita's are rare enough in Japan, and salvage yards don't work over there like ours. Cars simply get crushed & recycled. Plus the Gita isn't as well equipped as the Lexus versions. Usually no cruise control, no Satnav, a 180km/h speed limiter. Bascially the deal is that I am not allowed to import a complete one into Australia & use it for road use. To get one in, it needs to be cut up. So I want the rear end so I can weld it onto the front of a locally sold saloon. But in addition, I'd like all the bits out of the engine bay so I can fit it all in my "hybrid". I also want the wiring loom to be either removed from the front, or rolled up into the rear half so it is uncut. Make more sense?
  4. I'm not sure how to go about this. I'm trying to locate a wreck of an IS300 Sportcross damaged in the front. This sounds like a weird request, but it seems that the only way I'm going to get an estate is to make my own by combining an estate rear cut & the front of a rear damaged local saloon. A big job, but possible with a job in the roof just behind the windscreen & rear floor in front of the rear seats, and certainly would end up with the most unique IS in my country. I would prefer to use a European version as I can use the complete wiring, etc to make sure it all runs properly, instead of trying to combine looms somehow. Firstly, I'd like to know how common wrecked ones are? Secondly, approx how much would one be? Thirdly, would someone be prepared to source one & then dismantle it (remove engine & gearbox, remove wiring from front section) & then cut it up (we're not allowed to import whole cars as wrecks into Australia to prevent re-birthing)? There would be payment involved for the time & effort. Thanks Steve
  5. So you couldn't hook a circuit into the main driver's door control to wind up all the windows then? But I guess from what you're saying, if the ECU doesn't have power, then the windows stil wouldn't go up.
  6. So you'd rather have you road fall apart completely & then bend a rim or 2 on potholes? And I wouldn't bother about the stealing thing. Most places I know of take photos now to prove that things like signs, etc were put in place. So all they have to do is prove that the signs were in place when they left the site & you'd still be screwed, no court would expect someone to be sitting there 24/7 to watch them. My suggestion, just slow down (its one week of inconvenience for 10 years of a better road), but I'd ring up & complain about the amount of loose stones. There is usually some left over, but if the site swept about a day later, that gets rid of 99% of them. And before you ask, yes, I am a council engineer that reseals roads. no, I can't offer you any more advice on it because I live 20 000km away
  7. How big is that control box? Looks like you'd be able to sit it inside the driver's door, as that's where the main controls for the windows & door lock is situated. I'd be worried about hooking wires directly upto the window motor (unless that's the source of the 12V to bypass the switch) without having relays involved. Most window switches work on a principle of supplying 12V to one side of the switch & earth to the other to wind the window up, & then reversing the polarity to wind it down. I think the wires, when the switch isn't being used then are earthed (but I'd have to confirm this), so then it'd be a matter of finding the wire that needs 12V to wind the window up & hooking that to a timer. This then leaves the factory circuit breaker (which is what stops the window when it gets to its limits of travel) in place. If your battery is a bit dodgy, or the tracks in the windows are a bit dirty, this will slow the windows down & possibly stop them. Then the timer could not be on long enough to get all the windows up. I must admit I really like the idea of being able to hit one button & anything & everything that is open on the car closes automatically, & will be doing it to mine as well (though you'll be waiting a while until this happens)
  8. I've just asked this same question. Seems to me people think its too hard as you've got to pull the dash and interior apart to get it all in. Though I'm sure with some time & patience it could be done if you have all the bits. (I'm a deft hand at dismantling stuff & rescrewing it back together) Do you happen to have a pic of what he's offering (& for how much)? I'm curious to see what is involved myself & whether the cost is worth it (I may also be able to point out some things as I have a Toyota EPC :winky: )
  9. Taking bits out doesn't worry me too much. But any idea how much of the loom needs to be changed? The entire car, just the dash, ... I'm guessing the parts would be more than the £2000 price difference to buy one with it already, & then of course finding the parts
  10. As the title says, I'm curious to find out if the factory SatNav system can be retrofitted into an IS200 or IS300 that didn't leave the dealer with it. Is it a plug in fit, or is that simply too difficult?
  11. Actually, come to think of it, the JDM odometer could be used in conjunction with a km/h speedo from Europe. And there's quite a supply of these in New Zealand.
  12. I thought that maybe there was something on the back, maybe like an extra resistor, or a change in resistance. I can understand the dual readings on the speedo, the rest of Europe is in km/h & it's only a ferry or train ride away. I know my friend's GT4 had something attached to the back of it's cluster when it was imported to the UK from Japan. He then removed it because he now lives in Spain & will be bringing the car back to Australia with him (talk about going the long way :winky: ) Maybe then would it be possible to find out whether the entire LHD cluster would fit into a RHD?
  13. For those that have dismantled the instrument cluster: Do the speedometer & odometer come out? I'm asking because when I export mine form the UK back to Australia, the reading will be wrong as we have km/h, so I'd like to be able to change over the speedo. Also, is there a toggle somewhere to change the odometer from MPH to km/h? I could get a JDM cluster, but these only read to 180km/h & wrecks of the IS are still rare here as our cars don't depreciate as quickly as yours. Would a LHD km/h speedo bolt into a RHD cluster?
  14. Possibly. Like I said though, no rush. I've got to buy one first & then I'll check whether there's any differences to the saloon (though I can't think what) Out of curiousity, how did you do up your design? On a CAD program?
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