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gary

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Everything posted by gary

  1. For anyone interested... here's what I did, Looking at the contacts they were basically worn / broken. They seem to be cast from a very soft metallic compound, not sure what, anyway the short story is that I made some new contacts... I melted some solder into a little mould I chiselled out of a piece of wood, put some copper braid into it and let it cool down. Then filed it to size and cleaned up with emery paper. I soldered on the old spade connectors and re-assembled. Not sure how long this fix will last, but its working for now and cost me nothing, ideally though I would like to be able to get hold of the proper replacement contacts. So far My Lexus has been very reliable, except for replaceable electrical contacts that have worn, and could be replaced very cheaply. But Lexus make you pay for a whole assy. I have paid £15 now for 2 repairs which would have cost well over £1000 for Lexus to fix, this one and the starter issue I had before which Lexus wanted more than £700 to fix, Toyota supplied new solenoid contacts (they're the same as those used in the Supra, but Lexus won't supply them), and its worked great ever since. We're all being duped into paying far too much to replace serviceable items and its a disgrace.
  2. Can anyone help? I have a problem on my 93 GS300, where the one of the contacts in my electric window motor is broken. (rear, driver's side though I'm sure the contacts would be the same in them all) The contact is replace-able if you can get the part... Lexus want £280 + Vat for a new assy, but the bit I need appears not to be puchaseable on its own.. Any ideas where I can get a new contact? I've tried calling Toyota already...
  3. Hi I've just had the same problem, on a '93 GS300 not sure if it is the same, but... I had to pull out the light in the door (just pops out) behind which there is a big screw / bolt. Then you have to remove the ash tray / elec window button assy. there is a clip at the rearmost part of the assy, which will pop out (lift vertically), again behind this is another screw / bolt. The rest is fairly simple and obvious....undo the screws you can see and pop the trim off, the only thing that's tricky after that is the bit at the top that touches the glass, but you'll work it out. Don't suppose you know where you can get a new motor contact for the motor? Lexus want £282 for a new assy... the contact looks like is costs 1 pence if that. Gary
  4. Final Update... I think what I have done will fix most examples of this problem, and will be quicker and much cheaper than a re-con starter, or getting your own starter repaired by a specialist. I bought a new battery which did not make any difference, but it was cheap, at £50 inc from autobits .com in Farnham. I removed the starter, from underneath, you need to remove the bottom engine cover, the top 1/2 of the dipstick guide (1 bolt then it pulls out) I also removed a couple of brake pipe brackets which you may or may not need to do), the elec. connectors to the starter (make sure you disconnect from the battery 1st). I used a 14mm ring spanner to remove the 2 bolts, and eventually managed to extract the starter. This is not easy as there is limited room. Opening the cover of the solenoid reveals the plunger which just pulls out, and the 2 terminals, which were obviously worn. I cleaned the plunger contact up with abrasive paper, and ordered 2 new terminals (< £16 inc ) from Toyota (Lexus only sell the whole solenoid assy). Tip - If you tell them the car is off the road they deliver to the garage next day (no-one seems to keep them in stock). My starter mechanism had the Toyota part no on it (you need to quote this, but essentially its the same as on a Supra). Replacing the contacts takes about 5 mins. and is easy - just make sure you put all the insulators back! I also tested that the starter motor worked (I recomend you try this in a vice, or clamp it in a work bench). I connected it to the battery, using jump leads, earth to the motor case, +12v (to the teminal that connects the solenoid to the motor) and it whirred away nicely. Tip - connect to the starter 1st and then to the battery, this will produce less sparks. Mine was fine but its probably worth finding out before you put it all back in again. I replaced the starter, easier than getting it out as the practise in finding the exact position you need to be in to get at the bolts when extracting will make a big difference. I replaced the dipstick guide, the brake fluid pipe brackets, and engine cover, re-connected the battery and the car now starts perfectly, 1st time every time. It may be possible to replace the solenoid terminals without removing the starter, but there is not much room, so it would be v difficult to see, there are a couple of very thin wires you could break under the solenoid cover, (1 is attached to one of the teminals) and you need to make sure that that you have put it back together so that nothing is shorted, so I wouldn't recommend it. Tools I used were 10, 12 and 14mm ring spanners. 10, 12, and 14mm sockets, extension bar and ratchet. plus a smaller spanner for the solenoid cover plate (I can't remember the size but would guess about 6 mm) And a cross head screwdriver I hope this helps someone some day. If you do try this and get stuck, or this helps you then send me an e-mail! If you try this and break something - don't blame me!
  5. Quick update... The battery is not perfect, but using a friends garage's jump start equipt. made no difference either, while tapping the starter with a solid piece of metal did. So, any substantial advice or tips on removing the starter would very much appreciated. Has anyone replaced the contacts on their starter and if so how much and where did you get them from? Gary
  6. Where do you even start? Do you have to remove everything above it to get proper access or can it be done from underneath, did you need any special tools, I saw 2 obvious bolts from underneath when checking the +ve cable, but assume that there are more that are even less accessible. any hints or tips? Thanks Gary
  7. When trying to start my 93 GS300 the starter often will only engage after lots of turns of the key. The solenoid (I assume) clicks every time, and when the car does start often the cranking is slow. It is worse when cold. I have checked the battery, and the cables and measuered resistance between battery and engine, and all appear fine. I saw an item relating to a Supra ( I think the engines are almost identical) with a similar problem, and one of the cures was to replace the solenoid magnetic switch contacts, which involved removing the starter itself. Has anyone else had this problem that can help or know how to remove the starter etc. Thanks
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