edeath

Well they are not as stiff - but there is such thing as too stiff. It personal choice really. Obviously you will have less roll with the Hotchkis bars but camber changes, one sided bumps and potholes will be harsher. Also you will have the pain of having to import Hotchis bars from the USA.

Very good piece of kit. He's been trying to sell those for a while.......it's an alright price as well.

you cannot remap the standard ECU so this cannot be done. The CEL is due to there being a sensor after the Cat which is there to check if it's working. If it's not there it's not working so it will chuck a CEL. You need an O2 simulator IIRC.

Having taken apart the pullet i think a large part of the clutch assembly has been removed from the MB setup by TTE/Bemani. I don't think it would be an easy job getting it working again.

ToyMR2 you may be better off waiting for a cheaper kit to come out as this one is quite expensive. Also bear in mind that you will have to send your own OEM parts back to the seller which will work out quite expensive for you (being in Norway) as they require large items such as the airbox sent back to them. The seller is a tuning company in essex but they do not have the best reputation......i'm sure the kit will be fine though. I managed to fit the charger kit to my car in about 8 hours with breaks without any specialist tools. But if you really really really must have one now and are willing to pay over the odds......

Are you 100% sure the correct Denso's were put in? Quite a few people have solved this problem with Denso IK20s (SK20s should be fine too though.)

exhaust will get quieter over time as the soot builds up (or something similar) inside if its a little too loud at the moment.

Uzi Wozzi - Check the rear tyre pressures as thats probably the cause. Also new tyres have a mold release agent on them when they are fitted. This comes off after a while and the tryes will get more sticky. Kevdood - Have you had your geo set to the WIM settings as that gets rid of the inner tyre wear problem your experiencing?

yep as above just low coolant.

I thought clicking at idle was normal? It's modifying the throttle like an idle control valve.

have you got anything plugged into the obd port? this happens to me sometimes when i've just reconnected my scanguage. If you do have something plugged in then try unplugging and then plugging in again while engine is running. If that doesnt work turn engine off and try reconnecting. Its a tiny bit hit and miss.

Guys I've been following this for a while as it a very interesting project. I drove the Project 550 car at JAE and was very impressed (maybe not enough to get rid of my charger setup :) ) and the wastegate chatter sounded awesome. From what I understand the idea was to increase the boost to as high as possible and find out what snaps when it blows. However this has not happened yet and they are managing 1bar of boost and over 300BHP. Its almost like a project to destroy the engine has turned into a product IMO. I understand peoples scepticism and I almost refused to believe they would be able to do this but having chatted to them I think its down to good planning and a very good map. There are dyno graphs somewhere for both stage 1 and 2.

the lex would be fine with winter tyres on 205/50/r16s or similar. Snow button reduces throttle opening at given pedal travel and dampens the throttle response.

I would get the diff oil leak sorted pretty quickly. Look under the car at the rear and you'll see the diff in the centre. You should be able to see the rear of the diff and how bad the oil leak is. I expect most garages will be able to fix it.

Kyle - that sounds like fuel cut to me. Problem is your running the emange rather than Blackbox / HKS FCD so cant really hel p fix it. The only difference between the throttle linkage's are the type of spring it uses on the SC. Does the bypas spring open nice and quick when you close it manually and let go? If so there is no problem.