Stevey G

Setting the timing was easy even for a mere novice like me. To get the pulley bolt undone I had to purchase a universal pulley bolt holder from fleabay at around £30. I slotted it into the holes, wedged it against the left side, and pushed like mad on the crankshaft bolt. It came undone with some force. Re-align the timing marks before taking off the pulley. Get yourself a pulley extractor, and take off the pulley. Remove the tensioner bolt stop by the left side of the tensioner (not sure of size, but its not a standard socket, and its not spline. Not sure of the name for this type, might be inverse torque or something. When tightening be very careful, these snap really easy :) ) Then remove the tensioner bolt (hex key), and take off the tensioner. Take off your old cam belt, and put on your new one. Work from the crank around to the cam anti-clockwise. But have a friend hold the cam belt in place just on the top of the crank, where the tensioner will sit. Pull it nice and tight. If you feel that its not quite tight enough, a little trick is to rotate the top cam clockwise a fraction, pop in the cam belt, then rotate it back a fraction to tighten. Do not rotate it too much - just a fraction. When you are confident that the cam belt is tight enough around the right hand side, then pop back on your tensioner with the bolt. Then using a bigger hex, put it it the square unerneath the tensioner bolt, and rotate anti-clockwise. This should tighten the cam belt off. Have your friend remove his hand, before you remove his fingers.. Apply quite a lot of force to this big hex to rotate it enough, so that the tensioner bolt stop can be put back in. Like I said before - do not overtighten, you have been warned. Release pressure in the bix hex, and it should move a fraction, tighening the belt. Put on your pulley, and do a few turns clockwise, making sure the alignment marks line up. If it doesn't your timing is out, start again :( If it does, then put back on your covers etc etc . Thats how I did mine. Hope it helps. PM me or post on here if you need any more info. I have stripped my engine, completely down to taking the head off. And may need to do more now. So I could possibly help you. Forgot to say, the crank bolt is a standard anti-clockwise undo. Instead of resting the bar on the floor, like in your picture, try resting it on the bracket of the 2 pipes running across the chasis (just out of the picture on the left hand side). Get your 22mm socket and good long bar and position yourself over to the right. Then lift - it worked for me.

Setting the timing was easy even for a mere novice like me. To get the pulley bolt undone I had to purchase a universal pulley bolt holder from fleabay at around £30. I slotted it into the holes, wedged it against the left side, and pushed like mad on the crankshaft bolt. It came undone with some force. Re-align the timing marks before taking off the pulley. Get yourself a pulley extractor, and take off the pulley. Remove the tensioner bolt stop by the left side of the tensioner (not sure of size, but its not a standard socket, and its not spline. Not sure of the name for this type, might be inverse torque or something. When tightening be very careful, these snap really easy :) ) Then remove the tensioner bolt (hex key), and take off the tensioner. Take off your old cam belt, and put on your new one. Work from the crank around to the cam anti-clockwise. But have a friend hold the cam belt in place just on the top of the crank, where the tensioner will sit. Pull it nice and tight. If you feel that its not quite tight enough, a little trick is to rotate the top cam clockwise a fraction, pop in the cam belt, then rotate it back a fraction to tighten. Do not rotate it too much - just a fraction. When you are confident that the cam belt is tight enough around the right hand side, then pop back on your tensioner with the bolt. Then using a bigger hex, put it it the square unerneath the tensioner bolt, and rotate anti-clockwise. This should tighten the cam belt off. Have your friend remove his hand, before you remove his fingers.. Apply quite a lot of force to this big hex to rotate it enough, so that the tensioner bolt stop can be put back in. Like I said before - do not overtighten, you have been warned. Release pressure in the bix hex, and it should move a fraction, tighening the belt. Put on your pulley, and do a few turns clockwise, making sure the alignment marks line up. If it doesn't your timing is out, start again :( If it does, then put back on your covers etc etc . Thats how I did mine. Hope it helps. PM me or post on here if you need any more info. I have stripped my engine, completely down to taking the head off. And may need to do more now. So I could possibly help you.

Cheers for that. Managed to undo the left hand engine mounting, raise the engine, then drop the sump enough to get a spanner and undo the oil pickup. Still had to remove the anti-roll bar at one side to be able to get it out completely. Thanks for the reply.

Hi, I am trying to remove the sump on my Is200. Although its now loose, it wont slide over the cross member. It feels like there is something inside that is only allowing a certain amount of movement. Do I need to lift the engine? Or have I missed taking something off/out? Any ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks Steve