SilverIce

Well that's odd if some of you don't even have a light!

Had another check; The bulb looks okay and has continuity. Across the terminal in the bulb holder is does not have continuity, however it tests at 10.9 volts. I would of though this should be 12 volts? Also do you know what activates the circuit on opening of the boot, because there is no obvious push to break like the old cars used to have...? I assume its built in to the lock mechanism.

Thanks for looking at this for me. I will double check the voltage.... The main interior light works ok thou.

Hi guys, Lately my boot interior light on my IS200 has been intermittent and now stopped working. Checked the bulb and circuit where the bulb plugs in and all seems ok. Have also looked at all fuses in three locations - but if it tests ok i can't see it being that. However i can't be sure as to which fuse it is, is there any info on this? Any ideas please, thanks. Kev.

Thanks to kev will probably strip down caliper fully soon. Unfortunately the problem still exists - Dad has taken the pads out several times and proved it is the top piston that is stiffer than the other one. After a few months it comes back and runs hot again, with freeing off it makes it fine again.... Need to prove weather it is the piston it's self or if it has run too hot in past a make the caliper warp?

I would assume this would be something they offer the customer, but prob not because the labour would be more than the new caliper. Something worth considering. What do these kits contain, is it replacement seals mainly or more? plus is this something that's easy for DIY (i've never taken a caliper apart) that is of course if it is the caliper at fault.... as for DIY this is not a hard job but i would say you would have to be compitant as MUST be 100% correct and is very easy to nick/twist the seals Thanks. I do most thing on my cars (I've got a 328Ci, sorry its not a lexus!) The only real question would be removing the pistons - i assume they have an 'o ring' or similar seal? Edit: I have had a look online and this seems the case - the most read tip is to use low air pressure to blow the pistons out. The hardest bit is the reassembly from what i read.

I would assume this would be something they offer the customer, but prob not because the labour would be more than the new caliper. Something worth considering. What do these kits contain, is it replacement seals mainly or more? plus is this something that's easy for DIY (i've never taken a caliper apart) that is of course if it is the caliper at fault....

Out of interest, was it a new Lexus/toyota branded part?

Hi I'm new here (on behalf of my farther who ones the IS200) He has a binding brake on the F/N/S. He felt that at junctions/pulling off it was a bit resultant, and then felt it was running a lot hotter than the O/S. I found a few posts on the search and it seems to be a bit of an unknown - on how to cure it. At the weekend we stripped down that brake, cleaned it all up (the pistons seemed v.hard to get back) and instantly it improved. About 50 miles later it is running hotter - but not as hot. I'm not new to this problem myself I had it on one of my old cars (a Peugeot 306-Gti6). The problem in the end was the master cylinder not releasing on that brake, but that wasn't found until after a new brake caliper, which in turn was again knackered from it running hot and melting the seals. I have read on here that others that have had this problem have had Lexus fit a new caliper but with no success (and a lot of cost) Can anyone add to this, or point out something else it might be - I wondered if there is some bits/dirt in the fluid (it was changed back in the summer at lexus)? Thanks in advance. Kevin.