AdeV

Thanks chaps! All much appreciated. Presumably removing the hub assy involves disconnecting the handbrake & removing the entire piece, then what - press the centre out? With the centre nut off, I can pull/push the drive spline in & out by about 1.5", the part the wheelnuts attach to (is this the hub?) has about 4mm forward/backward movement. Pulled forward, the backside reveals what looks like an oil seal. I presume the drive spline is 1 piece attachment with the driveshaft, since I can't see any driveshaft bolts on the outboard end. Unfortunately, I was separated from my supply of CV grease, so made do with chucking some heavy oil in as best I could, that certainly quietened it down for a few miles, althiough it's grabbing again now. So... as I'm a bit broke this week, next I'll try shoving a sh*tload of CV grease in there, see what effect that has.

I've seen this question asked many many times, but no-one seems to be able to answer with any certainty, lots of "my mechanic mate has done loads, he said..." or "I read somewhere once that..." I'm pretty sure my NSR bearing is fried. It's been making nasty squeaky/clicky/crunchy noises for a while (TBH, I thought it was a CV joint...). Checked today & there was a good 5mm play in the hub. So... popped the safety cap off, and sure enough the nut is loose. Now, I've done TRBs before now, and I know you set the pressure on those using that nut. And that whilst they're not supposed to be loose, cranking them up tight is also a big no-no. But IIRC the LS400 has dual-race ball bearings, not TRBs? So, my questions are: 1) Should that nut be done up murder-tight? If so, I will do so. For now I've tightened it per a TRB - ie. enough to stop the wheel wobbling. It now crunches and squeaks most spectacularly. 2) Is the bearing a press-fit, or slip-fit? i.e. is it a relatively simple job to replace? Do I need to remove the entire hub assy to get to it? I have a 1 ton press, hopefully that'd be enough to remove/refit any bearing if it is a press fit. Cheers! Ade. PS: Car has just passed 260K miles, so I guess the bearings have done well, assuming they're originals (nowt in the history file about replacements, that I could see)

Both mine are on intergalactic (by any other car's standard) mileage: Just over 200K for the Mk2, and 260K for the Mk4. In fact, I bought the Mk4 because the Mk2 developed a sensor/ECU fault that I've not yet managed to track down - mainly, I admit, through lack of trying. I've now sourced a spare engine & ECU, so hopefully I can cure the problem for good :) A new wing, and she'll be pristine again. Which will leave only one dilemma - which one to drive daily...? The Mk2 had lovely light steering, but the indicators/wipers are the "wrong" way around (non-euro spec) vs the Mk4... and the Mk4 is definitely faster.... Hm, I suspect the knocking CV joint on the Mk4 will be making the decision for me very shortly... Cheers, Ade.

Years & years ago I had Granada which did this; but it was using fluid (no visible leaks). Turned out to be the master cylinder leaking into the brake servo reservoir - we must have found about 3 pints of brake fluid in it! I always find that servo-assisted brakes do seem to operate closer to the floor than non-servo brakes (apart from Dad's Subaru Impreza, which gave me whiplash every time I drove it, the brakes were so close to the top of the pedal). Zero braking effort until you think you're pushing a hole into the floor usually means one of the two circuits is not operating; either a siezed caliper (unlikely) or air in the system (much more likely).

A few days ago, the aux belt tensioner bearing in my Mk4 LS400 seized (no PAS, battery light on). Fortunately, it'd been warning me for some time it was ready to quit, so I'd acquired a spare. Duly switched, it's an easy job to press out the old bearing, which I've done. However, before I go off and buy a £3.50 boggo 6302 bearing with rubber seals (code: 6302-2RS or 6302-RSR), I'm wondering why the original has the suffix "LH". Since LH doesn't correspond to any of the standard bearing codes, does it just mean "2 rubber seals" in Japanese? If so, I'll just pay the fiver to get a new one, press it in, and job's a good 'un. Cheers! Ade.

I have a Mk2 and a Mk4. The Mk4 is a nicer drive, but the Mk2 a better tow car....

Hi Steve, Yep - that's the one I meant by Mk2.... (with the overdrive switch on the side of the gear selector, before they changed to the wiggly gear selector). It's a sad story really, I sold the car to a supposed mate, who then failed to pay me & did a disappearing act with the only key. Luckily, I managed to reposess the car, but of course I can't do anything with it... Fortunately, a chap breaking a similar car on eBay has kindly agreed to sell me all 5 lock barrels, the module & a set of 3 keys (2 electronic + 1 valet), so I reckon I'll end up with one of the best key-endowed Mk2s out there! Just need to fix the dented wing & dicky ECU, and she'll be back to her former glory....

Afternoon all... I know the Mk2 LS400 with the single-button key is tied by hardware to the car. Unfortunately I've lost my key, but a chap who is breaking a similar car has agreed to sell me the keys, barrels & the transponder from the car.... but where is it located...? Can anyone help? Cheers, Ade.

I have never tried to see how many bags you can get in but it must be over 6. Munch Munch, sod the diet, again. Mike First job, of course, is to get the damn AC fixed, otherwise I will end up with a chocolatey mess in there...

Mmmmmmm, Revells...... they are dangerously more-ish.

Having just been on a road trip to Norfolk & back, the boss was extremely impressed by both the supreme comfort ("almost as comfy as my sofa"), waftiness, and the way the car handles, which considering he's a fussy bugger is praise indeed. Mind you, I don't think the handling was up to the standard of the VX220 he bought as a trackday toy :)

Aaaah, I can't keep chocolates in mine, Lexus stuck a phone in there instead :) Well, I suppose I could keep a mars bar there, but a box of Milk Tray would be a problem. RTFM - yeah, I probably should do that one day :D

Hi Steve, Would you mind name-dropping please? That'd be local enough for me to get mine done... Cheers! Ade.

Not on mine, I have to put the key in the lock & hold it - unlock to open everything, lock to close everything. And THEN press the "lock" button to enable the alarm.

Would you expect a change in engine RPM when the A/C is engaged if the system has no gas? If so, then I can be pretty sure that the compressor is NOT engaging when I switch it on. The thing is, is that a safety thing (i.e. the compressor KNOWS it has no gas & therefore does not engage), or have I got an electrical fault (wouldn't be the first on this car). Basically, there's no point in having the system re-gassed if the compressor's on the fritz, or the relay's bust, or there's a broken wire...