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AdeV

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Posts posted by AdeV

  1. Thanks chaps! All much appreciated.

    Presumably removing the hub assy involves disconnecting the handbrake & removing the entire piece, then what - press the centre out? With the centre nut off, I can pull/push the drive spline in & out by about 1.5", the part the wheelnuts attach to (is this the hub?) has about 4mm forward/backward movement. Pulled forward, the backside reveals what looks like an oil seal. I presume the drive spline is 1 piece attachment with the driveshaft, since I can't see any driveshaft bolts on the outboard end.

    Unfortunately, I was separated from my supply of CV grease, so made do with chucking some heavy oil in as best I could, that certainly quietened it down for a few miles, althiough it's grabbing again now. So... as I'm a bit broke this week, next I'll try shoving a sh*tload of CV grease in there, see what effect that has.

  2. I've seen this question asked many many times, but no-one seems to be able to answer with any certainty, lots of "my mechanic mate has done loads, he said..." or "I read somewhere once that..."

    I'm pretty sure my NSR bearing is fried. It's been making nasty squeaky/clicky/crunchy noises for a while (TBH, I thought it was a CV joint...). Checked today & there was a good 5mm play in the hub. So... popped the safety cap off, and sure enough the nut is loose.

    Now, I've done TRBs before now, and I know you set the pressure on those using that nut. And that whilst they're not supposed to be loose, cranking them up tight is also a big no-no. But IIRC the LS400 has dual-race ball bearings, not TRBs?

    So, my questions are:

    1) Should that nut be done up murder-tight? If so, I will do so. For now I've tightened it per a TRB - ie. enough to stop the wheel wobbling. It now crunches and squeaks most spectacularly.

    2) Is the bearing a press-fit, or slip-fit? i.e. is it a relatively simple job to replace? Do I need to remove the entire hub assy to get to it?

    I have a 1 ton press, hopefully that'd be enough to remove/refit any bearing if it is a press fit.

    Cheers!

    Ade.

    PS: Car has just passed 260K miles, so I guess the bearings have done well, assuming they're originals (nowt in the history file about replacements, that I could see)

  3. Both mine are on intergalactic (by any other car's standard) mileage: Just over 200K for the Mk2, and 260K for the Mk4.

    In fact, I bought the Mk4 because the Mk2 developed a sensor/ECU fault that I've not yet managed to track down - mainly, I admit, through lack of trying. I've now sourced a spare engine & ECU, so hopefully I can cure the problem for good :) A new wing, and she'll be pristine again.

    Which will leave only one dilemma - which one to drive daily...? The Mk2 had lovely light steering, but the indicators/wipers are the "wrong" way around (non-euro spec) vs the Mk4... and the Mk4 is definitely faster....

    Hm, I suspect the knocking CV joint on the Mk4 will be making the decision for me very shortly...

    Cheers,
    Ade.

  4. Years & years ago I had Granada which did this; but it was using fluid (no visible leaks). Turned out to be the master cylinder leaking into the brake servo reservoir - we must have found about 3 pints of brake fluid in it!

    I always find that servo-assisted brakes do seem to operate closer to the floor than non-servo brakes (apart from Dad's Subaru Impreza, which gave me whiplash every time I drove it, the brakes were so close to the top of the pedal). Zero braking effort until you think you're pushing a hole into the floor usually means one of the two circuits is not operating; either a siezed caliper (unlikely) or air in the system (much more likely).

  5. A few days ago, the aux belt tensioner bearing in my Mk4 LS400 seized (no PAS, Battery light on). Fortunately, it'd been warning me for some time it was ready to quit, so I'd acquired a spare. Duly switched, it's an easy job to press out the old bearing, which I've done.

    However, before I go off and buy a £3.50 boggo 6302 bearing with rubber seals (code: 6302-2RS or 6302-RSR), I'm wondering why the original has the suffix "LH". Since LH doesn't correspond to any of the standard bearing codes, does it just mean "2 rubber seals" in Japanese? If so, I'll just pay the fiver to get a new one, press it in, and job's a good 'un.

    Cheers!

    Ade.

  6. Hi Steve,

    Yep - that's the one I meant by Mk2.... (with the overdrive switch on the side of the gear selector, before they changed to the wiggly gear selector).

    It's a sad story really, I sold the car to a supposed mate, who then failed to pay me & did a disappearing act with the only key. Luckily, I managed to reposess the car, but of course I can't do anything with it...

    Fortunately, a chap breaking a similar car on eBay has kindly agreed to sell me all 5 lock barrels, the module & a set of 3 keys (2 electronic + 1 valet), so I reckon I'll end up with one of the best key-endowed Mk2s out there! Just need to fix the dented wing & dicky ECU, and she'll be back to her former glory....

  7. Apologies 35 years in IT and RTFM is used nearly every day.

    If you have a Mark IV there are two compartments in the arm rest , a large one and a smaller one above it that is serviced by the air conditioning so keeps things cool ,normally called a chocolate box.

    It all depends how you lift the arm which box you get access to.

    Aaaah, I can't keep chocolates in mine, Lexus stuck a phone in there instead :)

    Well, I suppose I could keep a mars bar there, but a box of Milk Tray would be a problem.

    RTFM - yeah, I probably should do that one day :D

  8. Would you expect a change in engine RPM when the A/C is engaged if the system has no gas? If so, then I can be pretty sure that the compressor is NOT engaging when I switch it on. The thing is, is that a safety thing (i.e. the compressor KNOWS it has no gas & therefore does not engage), or have I got an electrical fault (wouldn't be the first on this car). Basically, there's no point in having the system re-gassed if the compressor's on the fritz, or the relay's bust, or there's a broken wire...

  9. How much (typically) is an aircon regas & what is likely to go wrong? The A/C on my Mk4 hasn't worked since I bought it, until now that's been a problem I can live with, now I'm really suffering.... thing is, will a regas likely make it work again? FWIW, if I turn the a/c on or off from the touch screen, it doesn't seem to start/stop the compressor, so I'm wondering if there's more to it than just gas (or does the a/c system know it's out of gas & not switch on out of safety?

  10. Did you know that the passenger door mirror on a Mk4 LS400 will dip when you put the car in reverse?

    I didn't either. It turns out it only does it if the mirror adjuster is set to adjust the driver's side mirror.... how many of us religiously return our mirror adjusters to the central "off" position after making the appropriate adjustments, and therefore never knew of this feature?

    I'd be interested to know if it happens on non-Mk4 cars.

  11. A few weeks ago, an insane plan was hatched... my (much younger) colleague at work, who's dad is a keen banger racer, wanted a car to banger race. Some time ago, I bought a white MK3 LS400 with a number of common issues, but with a decent low mileage engine. My plan was always to stick the engine in my old Ford Granada, & dismantle the rest of the car to sell.

    So, plan A was to simply let my colleague do the stripping down to shell, I'd sell the parts on fleabay, he'd get a free shell to banger race, etc.

    As is normal in these parts, things got a bit surreal. The decision was made that, rather than just strip & banger the old girl, she should be allowed a bit of fun first. So, here's plan B in all its glory:

    1) Strip pretty much back to rolling shell.

    2) Add lightness, e.g. by chopping out door inner skins, bonnet/boot bracings, etc.

    3) Fit Supra R154 gearbox to UZ engine, I also have the Supra prop, diff & drive shafts - although I'll probably use the Lexus drive shafts just to keep the standard brake fitment.

    4) Fit a Megasquirt III + MSX ECU to allow full sequential ignition & fuel mapping.

    5) Fit custom exhaust designed to run at 105dB @ ~4500rpm

    5) Add 2 lightweight seats, harnesses, slick tyres, unassisted steering & race-spec brake discs/pads

    6) Go scare the sh*t out of stuff at Oulton Park + other UK circuits

    Photos as & when.

    2 phrases: "How hard could it be?" and "What could possibly go wrong....?"

    :zorro:

  12. What's that in French? (apologies, I have mostly switched over to metrical weights, purely due to a reduction in brain power due to age/alcohol/girls [delete as applicable])

    Anyway, I've just bought a complete set for £65 + postage, even if they don't fit the earlier engine I can use them on my road car...

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