AdeV

Hi Royt - I was more concerned that if I buy the solenoid kit, then a week later the motor starts crapping out.... but if the motor is likely to be fine for the next few thousand start attempts, then I shall just buy the solenoid kit... Mind you, as it's a manual conversion, I could always bump start it :)

I've been googling, as one does, and it seems the VVTi engine has coil-on-plugs? Will these physically fit into/onto earlier variants of the 1UZ-FE engine? The reason I ask - I am turning a Mk3 into a trackday car, which involves a Megasquirt ECU; if the '98 COPs will fit into a '96 (IIRC) engine, then my "where do I get 8 coils from" problem is resolved :) Cheers, Ade. PS: The 4 litre engine sounds SUPERB with no exhausts on it!

My Mk3 is doing the dreaded "click" thing instead of starting; about 75% of the time. Sometimes it will start to turn over & then quit before the engine fires. Other times, just fine. Obviously, it's the solenoid, and considering this is a "project: track day" car, I'll be having the engine out in a couple of weeks anyway, so access won't be an issue. My question is, is buying one of the £15 "solenoid repair kits" off eBay likely to fix the problem for the forseeable future? Or do I pin my wallet down & extract the £170+ needed for a whole new starter? Thanks in advance!

The Mk4 is noticably quicker than the Mk3, has better headlights (self-levelling HIDs), an actual trip computer so you can read your MPG & weep instead of having to calculate it and THEN weep.... The VVT-i system gives intoxicating "stabbed rat" performance above 4K RPM, I believe it also improves fuel economy if driven gently, I couldn't comment on that. The satnav is actually surprisingly useful, mine has a hokey disk which doesn't work so well, but when it does work, the instructions are clearer than my TomTom, and the voice isn't as irritating either (sounds a bit like Hattie Hayridge, of Red Dwarf fame). What I will say is, I cannot believe how advanced this car was at the time (considering how primitive it was - in computer/dash terms) previously; touch-sensitive satellite navigation in 1998? Did the TomTom even exist back then? I wasn't sold on its looks (it doesn't photograph well IMHO), but "up close" & in the flesh, the Mk4 cannot be beat IMHO.

What Mk (1,2,3 or 4?) was the towbar from, Bob? Also, have the insurance co. given you the option to buy it back? I know someone who is after a very cheap LS400 (like an insurance writeoff), if it's not too badly damaged. I'd be interested in the towbar if it's off a Mk4. Would echo other's sentiments too - assuming it was an accident, I hope everyone was OK.

FWIW, my '98 passed an MoT with struts that wouldn't hold up a bowl of spaghetti, let alone the bonnet... Wasn't even an advisory. On the other hand, getting the fog lights working was a b*stard of a job...

So I finally pulled my finger out of my ar$e and bought a couple of coil packs - which haven't fixed the problem :( So, ECU next; does anyone know the part number for the 94-96 models (that is, the Mk2, NOT the Mk3.... or the Mk1). So far, all I've found is '89-'94 or '97-'00 codes... or North American ones Duh, got my model years all screwed up.... IIRC: Mk1 was '89 to '92? Mk2 is '92 to sept '94 Mk3 is Sept '94 to 1997(not sure when) Mk4 is 1998-2000(01?) Also, where _is_ the engine ECU on a '95 Mk2?

I would also be interested in the answer to this... my '98 AC doesn't come on at all; I've yet to get around to diagnosing it (last summer didn't justify the use of AC...), but I'm guessing the compressor will need a look-see. If one can just replace the clutch/bearing/pulley, I think that would save having to de-gas and re-gas the system?

That's what mine looked liked (the one on the right) when I changed it at 240k miles. Made bugger all difference to the performance of the box. I had a company do an empty, flush, and refil with the correct Type IV from Lexus - after I'd persuaded them it exists...

Yes I can't believe it too, especially as I feel anyone could do it, it costs pennies and takes about half an hour. I will do a comprehensive guide, in the mean time if anyones needles fail let me know and ill try and give you a quick run through the procedure so you can DIY it. I will also be looking out for the guide, thanks! My '95 has dark-ended speedo & rev counter needles, no probs with the fuel/temp gauges yet. I already have the conductive paint, so I shall give it a whirl as soon as you're done :hocus-pokus: No rush though - the car is off the road (still waiting for me to diagnose the engine fault)...

He is, but last time we spoke, he's no longer actively breaking LS400s "at the moment", that may change (maybe already). He does still have some spares in stock, unsure about towbars. I bought a brand new towbar for my L-plate Mk2, I think the same one will fit the Mk3, but don't quote me on that. I got mine from towequipe, I also got their 7-way electrics box, I fed the power from the electric aerial feeder (as my eleccy aerial never worked, there was no competition for the power, and I never blew the fuse in 3 years of towing a variety of trailers). The only problem I've had with the towequipe unit is, the towbar is removable, and the single heavy-duty bolt that holds it in place has ovalled the hole it goes through, so you get some interesting clonks while towing. Eventually (years down the line) this might cause a failure, but for now it's just a bit annoying. You're supposed to fit an autobox oil cooler as well, for towing, I never bothered and never had a moment's trouble, despite hauling a 1 ton race car on 1/3rd ton trailer up and down the country.

IIRC, there's an "OK" button on the screen where you set the clock, I thought you just pressed that once done and it saved automagically? I'll have a look tonight when I get home, assuming my satnav disc is in the right mood...

I have a Mk4 with stratospheric mileage (236k+), I'm starting to get a vibration at around 95mph indicated; but I'm pretty sure it's related to either a tyre, or wheelbearing (I've got one whining bearing). I suspect tyre TBH, as the previous set had a really dodgy tyre that started a vibration at around 80-85 (indicated). I think I'll try the spare rotation thing to see if that eliminates it. That said, I've plenty of other niggles to work at - a worn top arm ball joint & weeping damper being fairly close to the top of the list...

Firstly, insurance is a scam, pure and simple. There are 3 core reasons your quotes are so high: 1) Postcode - you probably live in a "bad" postcode. I do, hence I also get quotes in the region you're getting. 2) Lack of NCB - any less than 10 years seems to hit your premium hard 3) Any kind of previous claim in the last 5 or so years, even windscreen claims - they lie like politicians about this, but ANY previous will hammer your quote. DAMHIKT. There are a whole load of other, smaller factors. e.g. being single puts your quote up. In my case, adding a tracker or putting the car in a garage increased the quote (eh? -ed). Also, experiment with increasing/decreasing the value; about £3500 was the sweet spot for me; any less and the quote goes up (????), any more and the quote goes up (OK, I can understand that one). Confused.com is your friend here, the only caution I'd put in is - be honest about your past accident record, because they WILL check if you ask for 1 quote with a claim & 1 without...

They are almost certainly correct, the pre-98 LS uses OBD 1 (aka any old protocol, I think). However, there are some good instructions on this site & lexls.com on how to extact codes from such engines. Basically, it involves counting the number of times your engine management light flashes. It worked well on my '95 model, albeit I only had 1 code to read. The only equipment you need is a paperclip (or short piece of wire) and an operational Mk1 eyeball. Instructions can be found here: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html Ignore the fact that site says 95+ uses OBD2, that was only in the US.

Blimey! A couple of hours with a can of carb cleaner and a formerly filthy throttle body is now working MUCH better :) The cold idle immediately settled at 1400 or thereabouts, dropping nicely back to 6-800 as the car got warm. Interestingly, in reverse the car idles at 600 (when warm) - in forward gear between 350-400.... is that normal? Seems a bit odd to me.

Thanks all for the replies :) I've just put another 250 trouble-free (albeit noisy) miles on her, and she's running great, despite not yet having the "deep service" she needs... I've just had the fan belt off & identified the viscous fan (as I suspected), and also the top idler pulley bearings are shot. Benfur.... I need you... Idling wise, I will take the general advice & give the throttle body a damn good clean; if the outside is anything to go by, it's going to be a mess in there. Cold idle seems to be the same as a proper hot idle (600), the hot idle varies between 400 and 600 depending on what mood the car is in. I've also noticed a slight hesitation on the throttle, particularly when warm. Everything else is great - the phone in particular - although I'll be damned if I can work out a) where the SIM card is, and B) how to get it out. Yes, I've looked at the book & it does say, but the phone is designed to take a full credit-card sized SIM, and I can't for the life of me work out how the small standard sized one got in there, or how to get it out (or, indeed, how to put it back in in the right place). If anyone is wondering about upgrading from a Mk1/2 (and maybe a Mk3?), I can highly recommend it: They look a lot better "in the flesh" than in photos IMHO, and talk about going like a stabbed rat! PROPER acceleration. And if you get one with Xenons, everyone thinks you're the police (at night, anyway). :D

Update: Car runs fine after the initial "won't stay running" period, doesn't need to get very warm. However, the idle speed is still low (400rpm, not 250....) in my opinion. Occasionally it will idle at 600 which I'm much more comfortable with. I suspect a good service will sort that out, not so sure about the cold start issue. I still can't program the other key - the locks flick twice at the point in the sequence where one presses "lock" the 2nd time (this is in the pedal dance instructions, method 1 for remote entry). If I try Method 2, nothing happens at all. Anyone got any ideas what I can do to fix that? The link to the instructions I'm using is here: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=47560&view=findpost&p=502497 I'm guessing I need to de-program and re-program the key. The little red light flashes on both keys when a button is pressed. Neither key will open the boot. One main beam bulb is blown - the low beams are HID, the high-beams look to be ordinary white bulbs, can I (should I?) use HIDs for main beam, or should I stick to white bulbs? If anyone has the Unipart order code for the correct bulb I'd be most grateful.

:lol: :lol: :iraqi-info-minister:

Thanks for the replies :) I paid a bit more than 475 - but then mine has a towbar which is worth a minimum of 200 quid... Mark - the temp sensor issue is in the engine, not the dash; that's assuming it's the sensor that's faulty (it might be something else). No Engine Management light at least (so that's an improvement on my old one!) I've tried pressing & holding - nothing. The light on the key flashes intermittently (every second or so) - I've given it 10 flashes & nothing. The lock/unlock buttons work fine on the 1st key. On the 2nd key, nothing functions, and when I try to program it, the door locks cycle twice instead of once (presume that means "I already know about this key, I just choose to ignore it"). £100? That's not actually as bad as it sounds - it cost me around 50 quid to update my TomTom maps a couple of years back - so merely double that for a Lexus Genuine Part seems quite cheap. I guess the other thing to do is just keep using the TomTom... Ta again!

A week ago today I jumped on a train to go get my new baby, a Mk4 with galactic mileage, but good service history, recent cambelt and only minor niggles. The 200 mile return journey threw up only one issue, a fairly nasty whine from the front. My wet-finger diagnosis is probably the viscous fan pulley bearing, but I haven't pulled anything off yet to verify that. On Sunday, the car did a 100 mile round trip without any problems. On Monday & Tuesday, no problems, although I only did some short trips. On Wednesday morning, I managed 100yds, then she cut out & wouldn't restart. After some cursing, fuse-pulling, etc, & still no joy, I walked home & dragged a mate out with a 4x4 to tow me to the workshop. By the time we got back (20 mins later), the car would fire up but immediately stall, unless held on the throttle. Not wishing to abuse the gearbox, I took the tow anyway & left the key with the garage next door to have a fiddle. He discovered that if you fire up from cold & hold between 2500-3000rpm until the car warms up, then it'll stay running. Once warm, all seems well, although IMHO the idle is too low at 250-300rpm. Today I've verified that for myself & done some incident-free driving about. A preliminary diagnosis is that the engine temperature sensor is faulty, shutting off the cold-start before the engine's warm enough to run on the regular program. I'll take some pics when (if) the weather improves. For a nigh-on quarter million mile car, it's looking really good - just a few gremlins to solve. Speaking of gremlins... the above two are the serious ones; less serious but still annoying are: - Only one of the 2 electronic keys opens/closes the doors remotely. Both will start the car. Neither will open the boot (button OR key-in-lock). The boot will open from inside the car (and it will open with the engine running - was that a change from the Mk2 or is something else awry?). I tried following the re-programming instructions on the non-functioning key, but the security light never even lit up, let alone flashed or went out on cue. The little light on the key flashes (both keys), when any button is pressed, so that bit should be working OK) - The Satnav CD is a copy & only reads intermittently. I've cleaned the CD to no avail. I've tried making a fresh copy, which seems to read fine but I get no map - any idea why not? Everything else seems to be spot on. The seat heaters are slow, just like on my Mk2 - by the time they warm up, you've already warmed the seat with your backside, and the clock/external temp display is just starting to darken from the right hand side. Oh, and the aerial doesn't work at all. Except for that, I'm well happy - especially since I paid significantly less than a bag of sand for the whole motor!

If it sounds like a Ferrari, then the exhaust is blowing badly

I thought I'd read somewhere on here that it's relatively easy to change the a/c compressor pulley, but I can't find the topic now... I've just bought a Mk4 (smoooooooth ride :)), but the a/c pulley bearings are whining - I'd like to replace said pulley (without changing the whole compressor, if possible) before the bearings fail & leave me stranded - so 1) is this possible, and 2a) has anyone got a suitable pulley for sale OR 2b can I use one out of a Mk2 or Mk3 car? Cheers! Ade.

I borrowed one of those widgets that has a flashing light on it, which lights up every time a spark goes past. Testing was inconclusive (couldn't really see much change when the engine missed). No visible arcing around the coils, I haven't taken the covers off yet to check out the individual leads down to the plugs. I tried using the oscilloscope to see "through" the insulation, but the signal was too noisy to be useful. You could see it moving when the engine missed however, which at least means it's definitely electrical (which I think I knew anyway). So.... possible faults are coils (or maybe multiple plugs/ht leads; the plugs are proper NGK Iridiums, not sure who made the HT leads, they all came from America), ECU or LH cam sensor (or wiring to that sensor). I've temporarily worked around the problem by buying another car :) Another LS 400 naturally, Mk4 this time.... will post some pics elsewhere soon.

Must admit, I'd considered changing the coil packs (aka igniters) when I did the plugs/leads, but didn't bother. Is there an easy way to find out if one is flaked, without getting electric shocks? I'm thinking maybe an oscilloscope could be used here...