Tom-18

I hit a crash barrier doing 70mpg in the wet last year and did hardly any damage compared to that!! thats more like a 50-60 head on not 30!!

I was completly honest with my insurance and they wrote the car off, my premium went up £180 which i lived with.... This year with it supercharged, 6 points, a write off, 1yrs NCB, and a value of £7k fully comp is £3700 PFFFTTT no chance.

Just ordered a new BMW 120D Msport in white gonna cost me £25k car for the car wen built in october and cost £1800 to insure!! with Virgin Money!!

Just be honest and they shudnt be too hard on you! plus shop around!

Tom.

Hi Guys, I have finaly got the Bypass Spring P/N from TTE.

- TD340-28866-00 for 2,23 €.

Just incase any of you want or need a spare/ replacement.

I'm ordering 2 tonight.

Tom.

I got a new upgraded TTE spring today , ( thanks to Rob's Lexx ) and just fitted it. In another post by Cho there is a pic of it fitted and Rob has said that the dog leg part of the spring can be fitted in three positions and his is fitted in the middle. But I cant seam to do this. So here are some pics of mine and would like to know if I have fitted it the spring the right way.

Thanks Mr Mole

Any idea's where i can get one of these?? tried most of my local DIY/ Accessoriy shops and nothing! also tried TTE and just waiting for a responce!

thanks,

Tom.

You can get them from TTE but they want 35 euros plus postage for it !!!!!!

Yeh i asked if they had any of the springs in stock and the reply was;

Thanks for your inquiry. We have the bypass modifikation kit on stock. Price for the bypass modifikation kit is 43 € + VAT. Delivery time is one week. Shippent can be done with UPS which is 14,28 € or via DHL which is slower but just 7,50 €.

Please provide your credit card details for payment.

best regards

Ive e-maild back saying im not looking to purchase the whole kit im just after the spring, can it be purchased seperatly?

Awaiting responce.

Tom.

I got a new upgraded TTE spring today , ( thanks to Rob's Lexx ) and just fitted it. In another post by Cho there is a pic of it fitted and Rob has said that the dog leg part of the spring can be fitted in three positions and his is fitted in the middle. But I cant seam to do this. So here are some pics of mine and would like to know if I have fitted it the spring the right way.

Thanks Mr Mole

Any idea's where i can get one of these?? tried most of my local DIY/ Accessoriy shops and nothing! also tried TTE and just waiting for a responce!

thanks,

Tom.

989,326

Tom did you get the pulley off? Wasn't sure if the pulley would come off easily if the belt is removed.

Yes mate, after you remover the 3 screws (that in ur case snapped) and the main centre one the plastic cover can be removed and the clutch plate inside can be removed aswell. then i wud just put this in a vice and drill the screqs out, re tap them in M4 and ur finished.

Tom.

whats the writing on the back of the car? im seeing 97 jack....

ps looks lovely >:D i spent 2 hours last week polishing my car and my arms felt like a tone of bricks doing the circular motions :((

Thats how you put the swirl marks in lol

Tom.

update so far is i dont have the cash at the mo to have it fixed but will be giving it to the guys at Bennet Racing to look at as there not too far fromme! has roughly quoted me £250-300 for the work +£££ for bearings/ anything else i want doing! should have it there at the end of the month!

Tom.

all i have to say on the matter is..............

WAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA lol like being at school again!! i cant believe how the forum has changed from being friendly and informative to being soo uptight and argumentative!! like watching the house of commons!! bunch of children sometimes!!!

just my opinion..... no doubt something will happen but hey ho!!

Tom.

Just a general question about how much extra people are paying since they have either turbo`d/Supercharged or completed an engine conversion on their Lexus.

With 3 years no claims i was at £1270 ish standard and £1630 with S/C, Induction kit, Intercooler, Scilicon hoses, Dump valve, De-Cat manifold, Rear box, and soundsystem declared!

God knows what it will be in July as i now have a£9k accident/ write off, and 6 points :( :( :(

Tom.

Guys, I'm quite happy to help edeath out here, given that I drilled out a stuck bolt previously from my engine compartment, so I now know it's pretty easy given suitable drill bits (it was impossible using the chocolate-strength drill bits that I started with !).

However, do you think it'll be similarly straightforward ? Is it easy enough to remove the pulley so that we can clamp it somewhere and drill it ?

Shudnt be too hard i guess.... i just took mine apart and wasnt too difficult! Just need a vice or something to clamp it with while you drill...

Tom.

Just look for Intercooler King on e-Bay and look for one with the rough dimenstions as Wozza's

Tom.

O well never mind, maybe that defeats the object of being part of an owners club too

Dont see how it does??? im still an owner of a lexus? Still update people on my car like others do in the way of when i clean it, modify it, ect..? Still need/ ask for help with my car the way others do when a commomn fault or otherwise arises?? Offer my advise or help other people best i can with there problems or learn from it and apply it to my car if it ever happens to me!!

Dont get me wrong i love my car to bits, but after crashing and riting my last one off its just not the most important thing..... when i say i dont care about it i mean in the way im not one of these people who has a cry/ nervous breakdown over a scratch, dent or tiny bump! Its just a piece of metal at the end of the day and a bit of fun...... if anything brakes i'll fix or replace it!

As it happens on my way home last night the dif decided to give up on me! nothng i can do, no point gettin upset about it and with it under warranty it means Lexus are replacing it and taking on the £1600 for a new diff and the labour charges! So dont bother me just means i dont have a car till next wednesday??

Tom.

any idea why it failed?

how many miles has it done??

its a but worrying that afterspending 2k on a unit this can happen! by the way, im not pointing any fingers here just being cautious as i may be in th market for one soon..

The reason it faild was it was running stupidly hot and the car was at a stand still.....

not sure on the mileage.... but i do abuse my car as i dont care that much about it tbh lol

Tom

looking at your pictures u also have a large amount of scoring on the internals of the case which i would also look at - how are the edges of the lobes? in normal operation there will be very very light scuff marks on the piant covering the edges of the rotors - im guessing u have no paint on the lobe edges??

....There are only light scuffs on the egdes of the loves as you descrive.... no excessive wear or paint missing?

yes u do have an oil seal but it is inside the nose section with the gears - the SC is in 3 parts the case, gear section with the rotors and the nose which goes over the gears and also retains the oil.

....I had a look at the pics you have of your refurbishment and i have no oil seal where yours is??

remove the nose section - u need to remove the pulley. and you will see the seal - it is a cheap and nasty looking aluminium housing wih a black rubber flap - if this is not there you had no oil in the gear drive unit which prob means the bearings have run dry, broken down and allowed the shaft to move backwards resulting in the mess u have today.

....Removed it and took it all apart to inspect it and there is no oil seal yet when i removed the oil plug plenty came out??

you are in luck - someone in the UK that does repairs -send them the pics and see what they say......

http://www.bennettracing.moonfruit.com/#/s...aton/4530011439

all may not be lost!

Cheers rob have sent them an e-mail and the pics.... just awaiting there reply!

Is it possible to get a M62 off an olk CLK remove the snout and replace it with mine???

Tom.

Well just been down to my local machineits! He said i need to have it milled out and he doesnt have a milling machine to do it on :(

i do have a question regarding the Lobes/ Rotars. Is it possible to machine the ends flat again where the metal has been lost or do the ends of the lobes need to be close to the end ov the case? or do the shafts sit in the end of the bearings and dictate where it sits??

Tom.

A good machine shop should be able to help. i will show some pics to my brother, he is a machinest to see if he can help.

True gent!!

I have found some bearings and replacement oil on this website

http://www.darossi.com/catalog/index.php?c...e393cef72b70cea

Mine also doesnt seem to have an oil seal on the drive shaft?? can anyone confirm if this is the right on??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EATON-SUPER...sQ5fAccessories

+

How is it best to clean and smooth all the inside of the case.... easy to do yourself or best for a bachineist to hone it out??

Tom.

Hey guys just a quick one!!

I was driving along yesterday and all of a sudden i heard a grinding noise, smelt burning rubber! when i pulled in the car lost all power and refused to turn over! at first it sounded like the engine had given up but after letting it cool down and turning over again sounded like the charger was struggling to turn!

I cut the belt off and the engine turned over fine! i wrapped the belt round the pulley and tried to spin it but no luck!!

I took it all apart today and have some pics for you to look at!

Not good :(

Seems that for some reason one of the rotars inside has ground against the bottom of the case where the bearings are and the metal has welded itself onto the case :(

ROTARS

CASE

CLOSER CASE

The bearings at the bottom of the case still move fine but my question is.......

Will i need to replace the case or can a good machineing/ engineer take off the metal that has transfered to the bottom of the case??

Will i need to replace the internal Rotars and where is the best place to get these from???

While its all off i will prob end up painting it all.... but most important thing is to get it fixed!! I think i will replace the bearings seeings as tits all apart! just not sure on where to get them from??

Any help or advise would be great.

very unhappy Tom.

Top stuff mate. Reckon mine could do with a clean up....think my clutch is in need fist mind....well, thats if the nail in my tyre I found earlier hasnt caused it to go flat...

Did it cost you much to do Rob?

Apart from my own time @£35 PH - who knows

bearings( if you can find all of them!) and new supercharger oil about £ 35

Front oil seal £.0.80

stainless allen key bolts + washers £10

painting = free

machining work on pulley = free

sealants, retaining fluids, threadlock etc = free (from work) but otherwise loctite 510 £28, loctite 638 £30, loctite 242 £40 for 50ml tubes, but 10ml tubes are available

pulley drive bolts about £90 but they were free

the 5 weeks finding all the info and tracing a bearing = priceless!

Just had a read through the thread and glad someone has done this before! I was driving today and all of a sudden heard a bad noise, lost power and smelt burning rubber in the engine bay! My supercharger has decided to cease!! :(

Until i open it all up to have a look whats wrong (hoping just the bearings or sumthing not too expensive) can the replacement parts be purchased direct from eaton or Rob can you remember where you got yours from??

Also might be a silly question.....is there a hole or filling spout to put the oil in?? or do you put it in before you put the snout back on??

Tom.

Think im gonna need a few of the spare parts!!! mine ceased up on me today!! cant budge it for the life of me!!! :( :( :(

Tom.

I dont the same thing on mine a while ago..... makes the engine bay look alot neater

Tom.

I would never buy something for that price UNTESTED if it does not work you don't have a leg to stand on regards getting your money back.

Happens quite often on Ebay it is a good way to get rid of your non working rubbish.

agreed..

ihave one tested, working and still for sale!!

How much??

Tom.

Fitting took a while i think about 10:30am till about 7pm taking our time with a lunch/beer break. Plus we had to contend with a non standard IC and its affect on the piping near the pully. Plus the air temp sensor needed extending over to the induction kit.

I had a bit of trouble when cornering to the right too hard the I/C pipe was fouling on one of the pulleys :o made a few grooves in the pipe so just make sure you have enough clearence!!

With regards to ur Air Temp Sensor..... why did you extend it to the Induction kit?? It wont give you a true reading of the air temp into the inlet?? if its reading your induction temp and is then being further cooled by the FMIC surely it will be cooler than its reading?? I may be mistaken and sure i will be corrected if i am but i put mine in the Scilicon hose just before the Throttle body! pic below!!

Also ment i didnt have to extend the wires as it just reaches!!

Tom.

yep thats right

Tom.