P4VVS

? what u mean its bad for the engine if you switch the car on and let it idle until its warm, which in my case when i see the revs drop to below 1000, which takes roughly 2 minutes. I do this all the time, start it in the end of the drive, go inside, brush my teeth! and then drive off, why is it bad for the engine?

lexus isf on fifth gear 8-00 monday 3/3/08 Arrh you beat me to it, just finished watching 5th Gear!!!

hey...i dont have the interference but when i turn my HID's on the mirrors fold in and after the have fully folded they fold out again! have never figured out why (maybe something to do with the circuit i installed years ago for closing the mirrors when i lock the door) but no one else i know has had this problem.

My Brakes changed after around 6 years and 40k and tyres were fairly regular due to incorrect geometry, just got some new tyres i hope they last 30k at least!

I am in Smoggyland - North East, Middlesbrough, North yorkshire...

SOLVED..Thanks all, basically the white connector Stav was talking about was not fully plugged in, it is around the ring which you need to remove, if anyone is doing this to remove the bulb and change then please be very careful as it scared the hell out of me...its the last time i mess about with the car.....till next week anyway......

Kev Dood, i have tried both keys, the original and the spare and both are doing this, i dont think its the key(s) i am concluding that this inductive loop thingy has a power feed which i may have disconnected, as Stav stated above? so will check connection, does that loop thingy have a power feed?

Stav, i am sure this will be it, i will pop hope just now and check it is, and hopefully it will bloody start, dont know how it could have came off? i hope i have not broke it.....anyone else experianced this?

Hey Stav, Does the barrel have an immobiliser wire? as when i put both keys in the ignition like everyone else’s car if you notice the immob light goes off, i.e. it detects the correct key, but mine is not doing this now and the light keeps flashing, I though immob worked off radio but it may not be the case, is there a connector on the back of the barrel anyone? if so have i inadvertently pushed it off? or damaged it?

I decided like many to change the dash lights and key ring light to Blue, after taking the dash apart changing bulbs and then checking I locked up, got up this morning, tried to start the car and it wont start, it not the battery, I did notice that when I usually put the key in to the lock barrel the immobiliser light goes off (stops flashing and turns off) but this has not happened. WHAT HAVE I DONE? have I inadvertently disconnected a sensor? or have a blown a fuse? the car just will not start, please help anyone...please.....I have tried both of my keys and the same thing, I am adamant it is something to do with the barrel...I hope...

I got a quote from Lexus Teesside for 225 for a 3 button master key, i went the ebay route, got a uncut key shell for £9.99 delivered, won a bid for a 3 button key with a transponder already cut and swapped the innards, cost £12.99 delivered. I programmed the lock / unlock and boot release just to test the transponder unit worked, then to do the second set of programming i had to get the key cut. Now this was an experiance as specialist car key cutting places were quoting me between £35 and £50 to cut the key, The Teesside branch of Timpsons said they would not do it. I visited another Timpsons branch and they said they would but as it was not their key shell they could not guarantee and would charge a fiver, had it done and when i went to pay for it the nice chap said as he could not gurantee it and he knew i bought the key shell new, he did not charge me!! anyway key worked in the ignition, would not start of course as i had to program it, did this no problem and it worked perfectly, only thing i didthat was not quite right was purchase a slighly longer key blade shell as stated in previous posts, but it works perfectly, total cost under £25 as i needed to replace the battery too, as the original was dying. I use the key every day, put the other one away, saved myself around £200...who needs the dealers

I am seriously considering LPG as i have started using the car for work, they pay 25p per mile and this does cover my costs and i can claw back the money over the next year or so through work. I agree with the multipoint and the Flashlube requirements but would like the reassurance from anyone on here who has been running an IS for a couple of years and i probably keeping the car till it dies, if it works perfectly then i will have to conclude that the IS will be flawless in every way!!!! It would be useful to get input from any installers who have done IS's over the last couple of years...

After searching this forum i had heard loads of horror stories of is200 engines being damaged due to LPG and that put me off doing it, i have had the car for around 6 years and will be 8 years old im March 08. It will also have 100,00 miles on the clock, i am also considering LPG. after reading the posts above it seems like the LPG conversions now seem to be working 100%, i wonder if the conversions come with a few years gurantee, if so i will definately consider. Although i have heard rumours that the price of LPG will go up.....

The Address for them is: Town and Country Tyres Old Fire Station Middlesborough Road East Grangetown Middlesborough TS6 6TZ 01642 456093

I just wanted to let everyone in the North East know about a great place that specialise in car Geometry similar to WIM. I had the typical tyre dilemma as my car was wearing tyres very unevenly and only getting 4-6 thousand out of a set. I spoke to Tony at WIM and explained it would be very difficult for me to get to him due to family commitments and the distance. He kindly offered to help out by giving the chaps at ‘Town and Country Tyres’ a heads up on the corrections needed to make my car wear tyres evenly and drive better, mine is non standard with 19” wheels and lowered 40mm. Town and Country have been specialising in Geometry for cars and commercial vehicles for at least 30 years and I have heard very good reports from everyone locally. The staff were very friendly and firstly did a full geometry check on the car and then made the necessary corrections based on our favourite Doctors (Tony) findings to correct the IS200’s Geometry. Stuart who has been specialising in Tracking and Geometry for over 7 years liased with Tony when needed and aligned my car perfectly, he spent lots of time and effort to bring the car as close as possible to Tony's settings and was extremely helpful, explaining along the way what he was doing. I will re-check in 1 – 2 thousand miles as recommended by the good Doctor and informed the team at Town and Country to expect some local IS200’s to come their way pretty soon! I am very pleased at the results and highly recommend them to anyone else in the North East in the same situation. If anyone would like their details please PM me.

Mine is not wired like yours aztecbandit1, my kit did not have the relay for the connection to the battery, this could be why? how much did you pay for the kit? mine was £95 and i did not recieve the additional power as it stated it would work on an is20 and was ecu friendly... i hope it is not doing any damage....anyone know how i would wire up direct i.e what relay to use, the wire looks pretty simple to make from the picture, i could maybe do it myself?

Congrats mate, Same colour as mine!!! enjoy...

No other problems with mine, they work perfect, but still have the mirror problem, is it safe wiring the positive feed direct to the battery? would a fuse in the line make it safe? i have a feeling when i turn them on they trigger the mirror folding circuit and close and then re-open for some strange reason, as no one else has replied stating thiers does the same....whenever i flash someone this happens, really getting on my nerves now!!!

Chaps, i bought a set off ebay, rebranded phillips ones, and the strangest thing happens... When i turn on the lights, HID beams, my mirrors fold in and after a second they open up again, it does this even when the car is moving, so if i flash someone the mirrors fold in and then out again, really dangerous as i usually flash for somoeone to pull out, anyone else had this problem? i have the mirror folding circuit fitted to my car so when i activate the alarm the mirrors fold in, when i am stationary and i do it with the door open it seems the car wants to lock, but while driving dont hear this, thats why i mentioned the circuit...any ideas please as the HID kit is brilliant but the mirror thing is freaking me out.....Geoffers.... the kit link.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/XENON-HID-CONVERSION...VQQcmdZViewItem

yeh mate cause i needed to check to see if i had the correct alarm wire,he is missed.i think it says somewhere in the parts list i got wid it that it was on a timer of some sort.lost me mate Glad all went well Besty.

My cousin has built a couple of these units (the type that only closes off key and then opens off ign) if anyone wants a ready made one, had loads of hasle building mine, not very good at electronics!!! PM me if anyone wants a built one.

Are you fitting cruise control to a manual? can this be done?

Mmm strange, thats what they guy told me today, discontinued!, will ring back tomorrow and see what he says. but will the P&I's be ok at 35mm? if i cant get eibachs...

Guys, got hold of a supplier for eibachs from GriM and was told that Eibach have discontinued the springs for the Lexus IS, and was told they only do P&I, the problem is eibachs lowered 30mm and I was told by you guys should be fine to lower the car on 19x8 rims with 235-35zr19 rubber, The P&I lower it 35mm! can i still get away without chnaging the shocks, the guy said that i should but wanted to know your advice, the car has 70,000ish miles on it if that makes a difference! shock travel due to age or something he was saying. Some advice please guys. Thanks.

I now know lowering with eibachs (30mm) would be okay without changing shocks, but can i go lower at 40mm without springs? If not, is there anything i can do so i dont need to change shocks and lower 40mm?