Lexus-IS

Members
  • Content Count

    215
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About Lexus-IS

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Andy
  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    ISF
  • Year of Lexus
    2013
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Northamptonshire

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. That's great to hear thanks. So seeing as I'm not changing fluid and don't need to bleed it, I can change it just like a non hybrid Lexus? What about pushing the piston back and leaving the brake fluid cap off? Is that ok on the hybrids? Will it not effect the accomulator or anything?
  2. Maybe but if I remember correctly it was something about even if the car is off the brakes can end up operating if key is nearby. I found some brembo pads on eurocarparts they have good discount running today. Lexus said my front discs were lipped because of worn pads. Does that mean discs need changing or is it just a recommendation?
  3. So is the pad and disc change pretty much the same as other Lexus non hybrid versions? Where does the energy from braking go from? Is there anything different on pad and disc change for hybrid versions? What's the process of pressing back the piston on the hybrids? Normal ones you just open the brake reservoir and with a old brake pad and clamp just push it all the way back. I read somewhere about keeping keys far away . What's that about?
  4. Is there any guides out there on how to change the discs and pads for the gs300h? I've changed pads on my IS250 many times but this car is hybrid and has the regenerative brakes so I don't know what is different. Are the brake pads and discs also different? Eurocarparts do not seem to sell discs for it only pads.
  5. Yes i will be using a relay and use the normally open and closed to make sure power isn't going to both at the same time. If i cant locate a always live wire I'm thinking to just run the wire directly from the battery. There is a bulkhead/grommet behind the battery. Does anyone know if I can push a wire through there? Ideally I want to try and find some wire that is already inside the car. There is a red controller box inside the door panel which i assume controls locks and windows. Does anyone know if there is a always on wire in there somewhere?
  6. Did you fix yours yourself? Is there enough access to get to it?
  7. The new Lexus models when you come up to the car even if you do not unlock it the DRL led turns on. This is the feature I am trying to achieve. If the car is locked and you walk up to it, the mirror puddle lights turn on. The car at this point is still locked. So quite simply put I just want the front LED DRL to turn on.
  8. To be honest I don't think it will be more than 1A and it wont be drawing power for that long only when the puddle lights under the door mirror is on. I was going to run it from the +12v from the puddle light bulb but it seems that the puddle light in the mirror doesnt share a common ground wire. So therefore I cannot just use the +12v from that. So what I have decided to do is power a relay with the + and - from the puddle mirror light and have a constant power source. So when the puddle light goes on then it let the always on power through.
  9. It won't be running always, I will use a relay so that when the mirror puddle light is on it will use that power source. It's to power led DRL's when the puddle lights go on.
  10. Does anyone know if there is a constant 12v power source available anywhere in the drivers door or there abouts in the footwell etc? Need a 12v supply that is always on even when car is locked. Needs to be able to handle a few amps of load.
  11. How many miles you done on the current drive belt? Mine had annoying chirping noise on Cold starts which I haven't heard for a few years since I replaced the drive belt. Very cheap and simple DIY
  12. Oh. By the silencer do you mean the actual big bulky oval shaped back box? How is the heat shield attached does it slot into some sort of bolts pointing downwards and then nuts go and hold it in place. Anyone have any pics of where the mounting points are and how many there are?
  13. Just noticed the left side thin heat-shield that sits above the back-box on each side of the exhaust has come loose. It seems to be freely sitting on top of the back-box. I couldnt see much access between the backbox and the heat-shield to be able to even attempt to fix it. If I jack up the car will the backbox stay low down and create more gap between the heat-shield and the back-box?
  14. OK here's an update. The auto level is working now. I replaced the rod with the seized ball/knuckle joint. I figured out how it works. Basically the connector going to the sensor has 3 pins. Pins 1 and 3 are + and - from the AFS ECU. The ECU provides around 5V of power through these pins. The height sensor reduces this to about 4.5V. The height sensor is essentially a variable resistor. This allows the voltage to change from 4.5v to 0.5V. the 4.5V. The ECU then reads this to determine angle. Anyway my height sensors are now working. And one way i tested it for sure is with the car on level ground i crawled underneath the rear sensor and loosened the bolt that lets you adjust the height. When I moved this up and down I could clearly see the lights moving. But now I have another issue, with my car on level ground and against a wall, I can see my beam is higher than it was before because the level sensors are working. However, the right side seems much lower than the left side. Below is a illustration of how I am seeing the beam reflection. Ideally I wanted to get the right one to move up so that the lines meet. However the right was much lower and I had to adjust the cog almost all the way to the limit to get it looking like below: Question is, is there any other way to raise the right hand side? The cog I am adjusting is the one on top. I know there is another cog but I didnt think the other cog will effect vertical height. Any ideas?
  15. So by looking at this test procedure it seems to me that the AFS ECU sends 4.5V via pin 1 and 3. And the height sensor is the essentially a variable resistor that reports back either 4.5V, 2.5V or 0.5V. Using these reported voltages the AFS ECU then makes the decision how to adjust the lights. I'm wondering as a test if I should maybe turn the car on with the sensors removed and test how much voltage comes out of pins 1 and 3. If it is 4.5V as predicted, then loop pin 1 back to pin 2 essentially fooling it into reporting back as +45 degrees. And then technically it should adjust the lights right?