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About Leigh2000

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  • Lexus Model
    GS450h SE-L
  • Year of Lexus
  • UK/Ireland Location

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  1. That’s annoying as I specifically requested OSR- good job I never got round to having them fitted. Thanks for pointing that out though.
  2. Hi I've recently sold my 2007 GS450 and I have the following parts I accumulated meaning to get them fitted. I'm willing to listen to offers on them separately or as a job-lot-- For sale: Various Parts (NSF Shock absorber, OSR shock absorber, oil filter, cabin air filter, element sub assembly, front bush, front brake pads, discs and drums, 7 litres of Shell Helix Ultra 0W-20 SN Motor Oil) Item Condition: New (except for the rear shock absorber which I acquired from a breaker) Price and price conditions: £500 (open to offers but these parts were well over £600 in total) Extra Info: Any questions please ask 🙂 Pictures: See below Contact Details: PM in the first instance with an email address and I'll get back to you. Location: Spalding, Lincolnshire Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: TBC.
  3. Good luck with this. I have the rhythmic noise as well so I’m interested in the outcome.
  4. Initially I think the best thing for you to do is go to Kwikfit. They have a scanner and will just walk round each wheel to see if the sensor is transmitting. If any are not, they will remove them and give them to you (my local one did this for free, but they may charge you £15 per wheel) and then you can go through the process of refurbing them yourself. Or you can pick a reasonably cheap set off of eBay, but make sure that you buy sensors which transmit at 433mhz. The 315mhz are not compatible (or so I'm led to believe). As you mention, there is a thread on here on how to refurb them and there's a YouTube video as well. If they're still transmitting, then it's a matter of resetting the system. There's a button in a hard-to-reach place under the dashboard and a process for doing this which you can read up on from this forum if you search for TPMS related threads. As you've just bought the car it may be that the last owner had this issue and couldn't be bothered to rectify it. In this case, he probably did a battery reset to clear the code so that the warning light disappeared for as long as it took to sell you the car (the transmitters only communicate with the ECU once every 7/8 hours, so it takes a while for the warnings to appear. They gut I bought mine off pulled this with me). In this case, you may need to reprogram the sensors. This involves getting at them and noting down the code number from each one (i.e not the code for OS rear sensor, nsf sensor etc), and programming them through techstream (Toyota software). A garage with the software (roll up and ask if they have techstream) can do this for you or you can download the software yourself. It's not easy to get it to run though, as you need the right equipment. Hope that helps. All the info is already on the forum but I appreciate that for someone not technically minded (like myself as well), it takes time to learn these things.
  5. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/f/102747/20047/2007/sensors.aspx Does anyone know which one of these would be the one to replace the camshaft sensor?
  6. That’s useful to know. Can I ask did you have to drop the 12v to get rid of it, or did you use software? I see you’re not driving the same model but maybe the same procedure might work for me. I’m going to connect up to “Mr Hybrid” to see if I can clear it rather than disconnecting the battery.
  7. Thanks Colin. I read somewhere that there needs to be 6-10 clicks or something to tighten the fuel cap. I only get a couple. Is it worth me getting another?
  8. So it seems that the P0017 code can be caused by a number of things? I’ve got this and I’m determined to track it down. Possible causes (according to various threads and users on the forum)- * faulty sensors * loose fitting fuel cap * faulty VVTi solenoid * broken valve spring * dirty oil/ filter * timing set incorrectly * stretched timing chain I put mine through it’s MOT a couple of days ago and it passed. While driving down the road afterwards, the EML came on. I thought that this might be down to the mechanic removing the filler cap during the MOT and the subsequent loss of pressure. I’ve got a pretty big PPI payout on the horizon and thought I might treat the old girl to an engine rebuild/ timing chain replacement. Maybe not though- just about everyone I’ve spoken to thinks this would be overkill, so so I’m going to explore all other options before replacing the timing chains. Any more to add to the list above?
  9. I had this earlier today. I used the key in the auxiliary lock- it seemed to reset the motor and the boot then locked.
  10. Yes, that’s what I thought. The fact that the plastic cover is missing is a give away. I had two taken out of my wheels a couple of weeks ago. On my two there was a plastic over over the batteries which was loose which suggested to me that someone had already tried to replace the batteries. This is a good enough reason for me to reject them. Especially the fact that the cover has a metal strip that acts as an aerial which is now absent. My theory is that a clever entrepreneur has picked up a job lot of Pacific OEMS sensors from a foreign breaker and has gone about re-engineering them. If the plastic covers had been bonded back with a plastic epoxy I wouldn’t have questioned them at all.
  11. This is what they look like both sides... they’re obviously new as there’s no wear on the valves.
  12. Is it not? I thought the OEM sensors were hermetically sealed with a plastic cover? The seller is selling them claiming they’re brand new OEM, manufactured by Pacific who do make the oem sensors. Am I overreacting?