skeet94

20 Views and no answer - oh well I'll go ahead with it :).

Hello there, I can pick up this little piece for VERY VERY cheap...now what I'm after is a bit more information than I can find on the good old internet. I was hoping someone could chime in and give more information about how the unit works, etc. I know it monitors knock using the stock knock sensors and alerts you when in standalone mode. Also monitors A/F Ratios using the japanese NTK sensor which is the most accurate of all wideband sensors available and is used by the top of the line MOTEC ecu's as well. Is there any more information before I go and spend my hard earned £340 on this piece? Thanks, Mitul.

A-HA! Let me re-iterate that for you...my post should've read T61...I'll post up links when I get off work...

HAHA I understand completely :P

Ahhhh_Aristo: I do see where you're coming from...although if you're going to replace the fuel pump and have it run for another 100k miles PLUS - then you're just better off going the Denso route rather than the Walbro...the reason the Walbro flows more as a simple drop in is due to the low current draw compared to the Denso - but then I'd rather have a pump that's been proven on cars going up to 200k miles and giving it the recommended voltage ;). I'd rather spend the £150 more on a Denso and having that peace of mind that my fuel pump will NOT fail so easily as it's something that is being used on Supra's/Aristo's approacing 200k miles with no signs of failure. EDIT: If you've got approximately 60-80k miles on the car, then I see no reason why you should not have the stock denso rewired...it's easier, helps you prepare for the future when you go the route of a multiple pump setup or a single large external pump setup too.

I'd read up on some real life experiences with regards to pure 99.9% Methanol injection - it's been done numerous times :). You may be talking about Meth Injection consisting of 50/50 meth/water mix... :). There's people running 25psi on 93octane pump gas (equiv. to 99/100ron UK) and pure meth injection using one of Snow Performance's kits...?

You could run almost any size turbo, although you'll be limited by the fuel system...and so you won't be able to make more power than 400ish bhp at the most. Worst case...if you get a boost spike running a 61 or even a 67mm turbo, you'll more than likely run stupidly lean and end up blowing the engine :). Not worth the risk IMHO...although you can also run Meth injection (Meth is cheaper than race gas!) and you'll be able to run approximately 20-22psi (considering JDM 440cc injectors are used along with Meth) and that would give you some sort of "leeway" with regards to a boost spike. Again you would need some sort of S-AFC and a Meth Injection kit which has a progressive controller. If you want to do something right, do it the first time around - it's not worth blowing your engine. If you're going to spend £2500 plus on a 67mm turbo, plus manifold, plus wastegate, etc...then why not spend another £1000 and get a proper fuel system? You'll be a whole lot safer and will also have the capability to upgrade later down the road. Another thing to take into account is the transmission will NOT be able to hold more than 500rwhp - depending on your driving style the transmission may last you for several hundred miles or several thousand miles...unless you're going 6 speed.

Ahhhh__Aristo: Let's get at it again :P The Denso has been proven more reliable than the Walbro...if you read through the whole thread instead of stopping after the first thread you'll notice that :P. Also the pump is not being pushed beyond it's working limits - it's receiving it's recommended voltage instead of being undervolted as per the stock wiring...if it was being pushed as high as 15-16 volts then that would be pushing the pump beyond it's limits, which I wuold NEVER recommend. If you read through the thread, alot of people on there would run lean past 17psi on their small singles (61mm, 67mm turbo's), yet after performing the mod, they were running pig rich at 17psi and could run as high as 19psi using the stock fuel system with no lean spots whatsoever :) The Stock Denso has also been proven to 600rwhp too ;).

Hello there, I just came across this VERY interesting thread on my main lurking forum - http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404955 In summary: If you run a 8awg cable (any thicker is no good) to a relay and use that to power the fuel pump, it will give you a bit more leeway on the stock Denso fuel pump as it will provide it with a MUCH higher voltage than the stock "thin" wiring is capable of providing, in essence increasing flow. Therefore, not needing to upgrade to a Walbro in tank pump. Think this may help the people who are running their fuel system to the max by going BPU++ (Yoshi, Dave Prolex, etc). I remember Yoshi pointing out in a previous thread if he went to 19psi or even spiked to 19psi then his A/F Ratio went lean enough to grenade his engine.

I've got that button as well and don't have reverse parking sensors - it's somethign to do with the radio functionality. Play a bit with it it'll make sense as I've not touched the radio ever. Only ever listen to CD's. If you want I can find out in another 3 hours...when I finish work and get home?

Hey Aido, Thanks buddy - appreciate it! :). I guess the BKR8EIX won't pose any problems for me then :D. Mitul.

Hello there everybody! Was hoping if someone could confirm whether NGK BKR8EIX spark plugs will work for going BPU++ (Intake, Turboback, Exhaust, FMIC, Mine's ECU with 7500rpm limit & EBC) or should I go copper plugs? Boost will be at approximately 1.0bar for daily driving, then scrambled to 1.2 bar when driving spirited. Any comments, help, etc appreciated. Thanks in advance. EDIT: Also anybody know where I can get my injectors blueprinted? Might also be looking to install an uprated fuel pump so just want to make sure the injectors are good for flowing enough fuel considering the mileage of the car (112k miles)

See if you can take it to another shop to get them balanced...? Also see if you can put the old set of wheels back on the car, to see if the problem still persists - just to rule out any suspension problems or anything of the kind...always good to be 100% sure. If the problem still persists, then it's the suspension or something along those lines...if it doesn't it's definitely the wheels and/or tyres. If the problem exists with only the new set of wheels, I'd suggest Dr Bones/WIM...see if they can work out what the problem is. Normally a reputable shop should be able to tell you if there's a problem with the wheels or not. IIRC there's two (or more) ways of how you can get a wheel balanced...one is foolproof the other is not so much.

USDM Ecu pin outs are different to the JDM pinouts - best thing to do would be to ask someone on www.supraforums.com as I'm certain there was a thread not long ago with the information you needed...although the Search function is down.

Double check to see if the wheel's aren't already bent and check pressure across all four tires...also since you said it's in the rear - have you had a look to see if there's any play in the rear steering rack?

Possible Alignment problem? That's the only thing that springs to mind considering it's vibration from the rear after changing wheels/tyres. Also the place that put the wheels back on ... did they just use airguns and randomly screw the bolts on? IIRC there's a theory where the wheel nuts have to be tightened in a star pattern?

Dave any updates?

No problems Thomas - I've no experience with the E-Manage Ultimate, although I hear they work extremely well in the Supra world? Think that requires more research. Personally I'd go for a F-Con V Pro ... as it's just a set and forget type of management system where the E-Manage is user configurable (as i understand it). Then agani as I said I don't have experience or knowledge about the E-Manage Ultimate as such. The US Kits "should" work, but then I'm not sure if the actual manifolds would "match" up to the bolt pattern on the block. I'll send you a PM later on today or something :).

I'd say something around a 61mm Turbo would be a good bet in terms of a good compromise between lag & power. Should give you about 500bhp safely. Also tuning is also a major part of how quick the turbo spools and how much power you make...I'm sure just about everybody would recommend a HKS F-CON V Pro for that purpose...not to mention the kind of manifold you go with. If you go with a log type manifold (ie: similar to stock), then you'll gain spool BUT sacrifice top end power. Whereas if you go with a tubular manifold you'll gain power across the band (most at top tho) at the sacrifice of a teeny bit of spool (that's the general concensus). Also with a single, not to put you off, but a fuel system upgrade would be required also (new pump/injectors/fuel lines(?)/rail(?)) Having said that I'd personally go for a 61mm turbo, and if possible in DBB too.

Yoshi does have some issues with overheating with his FMIC and when I've previously enquired about fitting an FMIC on a BPU'd Aristo I got the following reply... That said, I will be fitting one to my BPU Aristo in the not too distant future so should be able to give a first hand opinion rather than speculation. ps. I would post a link to the original thread that yoshi replied to that I've quoted above but I am unable to due to board restrictions..... Wow I guess I missed that. Oh well turns out I may be wrong regarding over heating, but then again a car is pushed to it's limits on a track, where if driven on the road I don't think it'd have that same kind of problem? (now that's an assumption based on heavy load on the track). I'm sure Dave (Prolex) and anybody else with a FMIC will be able to chime in here.

HAHA I knew you would! :P I agree with the Golf comment, although even a ltitle petrol beater would do. I've currently got a 2001 Honda Accord (fully specced) 1.8l and it's pretty good on fuel, compared to the Aristo...so Aristo remains a weekend/fun car and the Honda a daily driver. What's the octane, equivalent to petrol, of LPG? If it's higher than the 99octane stuff (Tesco's, Shell, BP, etc) then it's definitely worth while. I'm personally waiting for E85 to make it's way into petrol stations nearby and then see how that works.

Misinformation being a BPU car does not require a FMIC :). I didn't suggest a FMIC for the car, only said I know of a few FMIC's which could possibly help him, if he was interested :). Blocking the rad? Do you track your car? Does Dale track his car? I very much doubt it as that's where you will notice a HUGE cooling problem with regards to having a FMIC in front of the car. Another thing being, our cars actually have a GRILLE which assists in cooling under bonnet temperature, up to an extent, where the Supra only has two side ducts (one for SMIC) and a huge front duct just helping to cool the radiator. OH another reason I pointed out Yoshi, is because he actually tracks his car AND he has a FMIC and as far as I know he has not had any problems with the car overheating. Again, please do research on Bar & Plate and Tube & Fin FMIC's, as one let's air through with less resistance and the other doesn't. I'll let you find out and tell me which one that is ;). Oh as for the FMIC comment, the same can be said with regards to...why did Toyota choose to go twin sequential when a small single could've done the job? If everything Toyota did with the car (when in stock form) is PERFECT, why increase boost? why go BPU? why go single? (answer is more power :)). If learning and changing your opinion on something is called misinformation, then I guess everybody was misinformed since they were a school kid ;) The SMIC is good, but not THAT good. Those suggestions were made, before I realised how bent up my own FMIC fins are from debris, etc. Let's see if you know what bent fins cause IC's to do less of and cause more of? (less cooling and more resistance). Also heated discussions are a laugh yeah I agree - nothing personal towards you Ahhhh_Aristo :). So who do you want to be in this heated debate? Mark or Dave? :P Dale: If you're looking at alternative fuels, I'd suggest waiting out to see how E85 reacts with us over here. If it does as it has in the US, then it's basically a higher octane fuel (similar to 99 ron petrol mixed with methanol injection) although provides a lower MPG figure but cheaper (supposedly). It's the same thing used on the new Saab that was launched with the first couple of E85 pumps in the UK? Anybody have any opinions on this?

Ahhhh___Aristo: I hope those comments weren't pointed towards me ... if so, giving a lecture as you so kindly put it, is better than the misinformation you posted up :). Also the original posters question has been answered, mostly by myself and tdiplc, with a bit of correcting on my post. Although I do hope the OP will chime in and post up what they're goals, etc are.

If I'm not mistaken, I don't know of anybody, who does not have mandrel bent pipes in their IC kit? Also, just curious, is there any testing, proof, etc on these cheap chinese FMIC's being useless? As I seem to recall quite a few people I've known who are using them with no issues with high boost, with high power, with the forced air not cooled adequately, etc :). There's one person, who's switched over a from a GReddy 3 row on an old Supra build, onto one of these cheap FMIC's from China on his 2nd Supra (same dimensions, bar & plate), yet he isn't complaining - he's a DIY guy too. If you could shed some light on this it would be much appreciated.

Post count doesn't help whatsoever :P Sorry if I came across a bit aggressive, just had a bad day. When you're not pounding on the throttle all the way, and just accelerate softly, even moderately, the turbochargers are creating little to no boost. This is called driving off boost. As I understand it the car sit at about 2,500-3,000rpm at motorway speeds (last I checked anyway, could be a tad off), and at those speeds as long as you feather the throttle, you will not be making much boost, if any. Hope that makes sense. You seemed to miss my point about the stock SMIC having a longer pipe length than an aftermarket FMIC. The shorter length of piping, along with a large FMIC even, would be almost same as, if not slightly longer, than the stock intercooler piping/smic length. In turn negating the effects of a "large" FMIC. Yeah, I failed to notice that - thanks for pointing it out :). These 1000whp FMIC's are used on BPU cars...making anywhere between 300-400ish rwhp and have the cooling capacity for 1000rwhp setups as well. Proven on both a 61mm sized turbo and a GT4088 turbo. IMHO Lag is overrated. Now if you're going to go and stick in a humungous GReddy 4 row (which will not fit on our cars) on a stock TT setup, with no increase in boost, etc then you will DEFINITELY have LAG. As that is a monstrous intercooler. Another person who will give you nothing but positives on having a FMIC on a BPU car is Yoshi. IIRC he has a Arc FMIC which is good to about 900+rwhp but is being used on a BPU car with a TOMS TECS ECU :). Also as I said, we have a sequential turbo system, where lag will only be ever so slightly evident when taking off from a standstill, otherwise lag will be non-existant. If that lag bothers you so much at taking off from a standstill, then you go and have your torque convertor restalled and you'll get more power to the ground when taking off. Also I'd prefer cooler air going into the engine with about a half a second of lag? If that?, with maximum timing ... rather than timing being retarded, more fuel being dumped in due to higher intake temps and less power :). As mentioned above, a FMIC is a heatsink. The more surface area you have the longer it will take to heatsoak it. Hence a properly sized FMIC will do only good things for power, lag, etc. Anymore questions just ask :).