skeet94

Whoever up above is saying a FMIC at BPU will only give lag doesn't know anything with regards to basic physics, turbochargers, etc - no offence ... please do NOT spread misinformation :). 1) We have sequential turbochargers, where lag is virtually non-existant. 2) Also in testing a decently sized intercooler for a particular application ALWAYS shows a good DECREASE in lag and more power and more resistance to heat soak compared to a SMIC. Has anybody compared how long the piping for the stock SMIC is and how long the piping for a FMIC is? Piping diameter, length, etc plays a larger role than just having a FMIC. The more volume of air that needs to be filled up, the longer the "lag" would be as it would take "longer" for the air to be pressurised and this happens in the pipes and the FMIC. Also a intercooler functions more like a heatsink, the larger and more exposed to ambient air the better it will function...but there is a point of diminishing returns - hence having to size up a FMIC to your application. The SMIC always gets heatsoaked after sitting idle for about 5-10 minutes, especially since ours are located behind the front fogs and has little "opening" for cool ambient air to pass over it. Heatsoaking results in loss of power, as the air the turbo's are pushing is hotter and in turn that makes the ECU pull timing to avoid detonation. What we need to make power is boost AND timing. A FMIC is a good investment, even if you are BPU or even stock as it will take a LONGER time for it to get heatsoaked, will provide a similar length of piping (more often than not shorter piping) than the SMIC resulting in high efficiency, lower lag and a nice increase in sustainable power output. Just remember one thing, a FMIC has to be decently sized for your application and/or future goals. Otherwise you may end up with a FMIC that is too big for your application, which will in turn result in diminishing returns and sometimes even give you negative effects. The stock SMIC is well designed, the uprated SMIC linked to above is a good upgrade to replace the stock one, but I would prefer a FMIC due to the above reasons. Hope that helps people now and in future :). For more information read: http://www.bellintercoolers.com/pages/techFAQ.html OT: If you want a nice FMIC that will work wonders (proven to 1000bhp levels), let me know...I'll point you in the right direction.

I've not worked it out properly but I've managed to get 300 - 325 miles out of a full tank on the motorway doing a constant 70-80mph with a VERY light foot. I know it took less than 1 1/2 tank to get to Bristol and back with a VERY light foot. That's with a regular spark plug change, regular oil change, regular oil filter change, stock power levels, etc. Maybe that'll help you out somewhat? If/when driven off boost and normally, the car will give you approximately the same mileage as a GS300, but if you floor it every chance you get, driving it like you stole it, you'll get crap mileage. There's something definitely wrong with your car Aido, as even at those kind of speeds you're not on boost...so boost level has nothing to do with it...as the car is only making 50bhp (if not less) at the most to get to those kind of speeds and hold. Check the spark plugs, and see if that helps. I've got a set of Iridium plugs on mine - last changed about 4000 miles ago.

Thanks - appreciate it! What kind of drop? What are the results of your weight balancing if you don't mind me asking? The camber adjustments, etc are REALLY appreciated! Was always curious about this on the Aristo! Thanks Dave.

Dave: Any news yet?

Maneesh: They are actually pretty "nice" folks - well the parents seem to think so anyway. Don't think they'd do that with the wife holding the camera ... BTW you've got PM. EDIT: Forgot to mention they may not approach you cos they don't wanna ***** THE pimp of Ealing and Enfield? :P

Glad to know it's not only mine! I mean I am getting a massive head due to the fact that there's Bentley Continental GT's, Porsche Cayman's, 911 Turbo's, X5's, Range Rover Sports, parked up on the road and out of all the cars I get more attention! (above cars are owned by the local Estate/Letting & Travel Agents)

Not the first time it's happened, but came home today after a normal hard day at work and heard from my mum, some newly situated neighbours who are renting the house two doors away, were posing in front of the car pretending to open the rear door (hand under handle) and were taking pictures of themselves next to the car. Put a smile on my face knowing a car almost 10 years old now, still hasn't lost it's touch :D. I've normally had loads of people just drive down the road, notice the car parked up, and park up down the road or near as possible then take a tour round the car and then drive off again. Sometimes even when I'm standing outside (in the summer) or when a family member is outside and get asked loads of questions or just a pleasant comment such as "WOW! NICE CAR!!! Yours?" Anybody else get this kind of attention? Mind you half these times the car is dirty too like today.

Yep Aido is spot on! Just one thing - the ARS kicks in at speeds of under 30mph, and shuts off at anything higher. It's mostly to make your turning circle smaller not to mention it does alter your "alignment" settings after some time. Best thing to do is to get the ARS Cancellor. You've got PM for a cheap reliable source! :).

Yoshi: I don't think the standard Supra MkIV (NON-VVTI) ECU would work with our VVTi cars, but they may do with the Mk1 Aristo's. Just wondering but where is it you can do a full remap on the ECU for £600?

Not to mention sludge build up - moisture in the fuel lines, etc. A full flush with oil and ATF would also be required with new pads, discs and calipers all around. Still a nice deal though! :).

Hey Yoshi, Long time no see on the boards! Hope you're doing well. Thanks for that but I was just wondering if the car had the typical problems a standard UK spec GS would have, with there not being enough camber adjustment to account for lowering the car? What kind of a drop do you have Yoshi? What would your current settings be for camber, etc?

Nice ride - power wise...don't like the rims and the spoiler. but may I ask why you're looking to go AEM? Just wondering since I've heard nothing but bad things with regards to startup issues, elevation causing the car to run a little funny, etc. Also get the fronts slightly tinted at least ;). Mitul. PS: Look forward to some dyno graphs once tuned.

It does kinda look out of place - now if the top corners of the plate were extended to meet the lines of the actual boot handle (filling the silver in the top corners) it would look much better :). It does look different and a change is a good thing in almost every respect :). So hope you don't get offended, just my 2pennies.

Although I've got the same width (different diameter) wheels - I'd have to say get the meatiest, widest tyre you can get on there :). I'd also agree with the above 245/40 & 285/35 would be the best bet without rubbing.

Cool - I'll start looking elsewhere for coilovers! lol ... thanks Dave - really appreciate it :). Let me know how you do with the settings, etc :). Thanks and BR, Mitul.

Hey Dave, Thanks for the comments...let me know if your alignment/camber can be brought to within specifications again. I take it you didn't have the car aligned/corner weighted after the lowering? Or did you? (just wondering) 2000 miles is VERY low - can't afford £600-800 in tyres every 2000 miles Reason I'm not looking to go with Tein's is they're "not consistant" on a Dyno shock...may be due to them not being a monotube design - have only read reviews on supraforums and clublexus about the HKS and they all had nothing but good things to say about them. IIRC Jaytonoya (guy in Malaysia with the V300) had the HKS and he had nothing but good things to say either...will definitely reconsider and do more research though. Thanks Dave - really appreciate it :).

Hello everybody, I'm eyeing up a set of HKS Hipermax RS for my Aristo - been getting feedback from someone who's had it for a month on their GS400 and finds it VERY soft, has improved handling substantially (considering he's coming from a S2000, lowered and braced). With just the coilovers he's finding them to be excellent, considering weight, etc. Now I'm just wondering does the Aristo have any issues with a drop of say 1.5" in the rear and 2" in the front with regards to camber? I'm assuming it's more adjustable due to having slightly different suspension components compared to the GS. Anybody have any "insight"? TIA, Mitul.

Top end is 174mph IIRC if you take the stock wheel/tire height and gearing into account :). One way to get rid of the 155mph is to get a TOMS TECS ECU - which is VERY expensive and hard to come by - another is to go HKS V-Pro and one other way is to replace the whole transmission ;). Nice example Jackal, I've just replied to your PM :).

I'm sorry to say but whoever gave you that information about the offsets doesn't know how offsets work with brake setups :). I'm no offset guru by a longshot, but with brake calipers offsets are only part of the equation. The main thing to consider is the disk setup on the wheel. Considering you've got the LS400 calipers, I'd go for a high disk setup wheel. Also the way the actual spokes "curve"/designed has alot to do with which wheels you can use. I'd say go pick up a set of Supra stock wheels, as they will clear the brakes EASILY! :). OR see if you can pick up a set of high disk wheels. I've got high disk wheels with offsets in the low to mid 30+ (33+ and 35+ IIRC) and I can fit the Supra caliper, larger than your LS caliper, and still have MORE than enough space between the caliper and wheel :). Higher offsets will NOT always clear large calipers such as the LS/Supra calipers :). Tramlining is normally an issue with tyres/tracking/alignment/camber/etc...unless of course you're using spacers which is a BIG NO-NO. I'd say go buy a new set of aftermarket wheels with a high disk configuration with a nice agressive offset setup (wheels are in line with your wing/fender) and call it a day:). Hope that helps mate...if you need more information just post up :).

IIRC these wheels are hard to find - I've not got the Mk1 Sport wheels (18x10 rear), but another set of aftermarket wheels. Best thing to do is to check out Toyota Team Europes website as they were part of the TTE package :). I'd much rather invest in a set of aftermarket wheels however :). Hope that helps.

New OEM wheels or aftermarket? Pics? lol.

You've got another PM! May be able to help you with the wiring ;).

Nice one! I'm guessing it was mostly due to the cold weather, etc. I think I may need to do this sometime soon too.

You'd have to have either a JDM ECU or an aftermarket ECU specifically mapped for these kind of fuels. You wouldn't notice the difference as much in cold weather...but you'll definitely notice timing not being retarded due to increased boost or anything of the sort. Also helps with high compression factory engines...as it would suppress knock and in turn allow timing to be maxed out on the factory ECU. You'll most definitely notice a difference in JDM cars though...I know when I had to fill up 95octane once (emergency) in the Aristo the car was "bogged" down like crazy but then as soon as I filled up with the 99octane Tesco stuff, it was "quicker/responsive/etc" immediately. Also remember to reset the ECU if you did a sudden change of fuel.

I've played with the Ultimate version and it is pretty stable - using it right now as I'm typing this up. The UAC part tends to get a little annoying but the rest of the OS is damn stable. Just a few things I've found - AVG Free is NOT compatible with Vista (regardless of what they say) - it kept on making my PC restart as soon as it would show the desktop. Media Center is pretty good if you've got your PC hooked up to the TV. The parents are good with MS Word and Internet Explorer but anything media related they wouldn't know how to use. However, with Vista, they just stick a DVD into the drive and Media Center starts up automatically...then just turn on the receiver and put the TV onto the right channel and "voila" DVD's working. Same with any other kind of movie or CD. Security wise I'd use Kaspersky and the standard MS Defender with the software Firewall provided as it hasn't failed me yet. Also, IIRC they are scheduled to be releasing SP1 for Vista by the end of the year. Just make sure you do research on the drivers for your hardware being up to scratch and you'll be fine. 1gb of ram is also essential :). Hope that helps.